Saab :: 2003 9.5 Loosing Coolant Fluid
Jan 5, 2013
I have a 2003 9.5 Saab with a 3.0 liter tdi. It has 160,000 km. The coolant light came on saying that the coolant was low, I took it to the Saab garage. They said that the ducts are compressing and that the water pressure increases in the engine and comes out of the radiator cap. According to them, it will eventually (within days or months) kill the engine. Saab does not make these engines anymore. I took the car also for an oil change which they say is not worth doing.
According to them, these engines have had problems like this (i.e. it is not a one off). We checked and do not see any coolant leaking from the reservoir cap but we see some coolant leaking on the garage floor. We check the oil and see no sign of coolant leaking into the oil and therefore do not think that it is a head gasket problem. We don't fully understand what the garage is telling us, is it a common problem ? How can we treat this ?
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Ok 210k truck runs great except I am loosing coolant into #1 cyl. Ive owned the truck since 120k and it has NEVER ran hot not even above normal. I guess due to expansion it will even fill up the cyl nearly hydro locking it, no oil in water/radiator and no water residue in the oil either. I had the intake gaskets replaced thinking it may have been it but it came soon back. I really dont think its an head gasket, has there ever been reported problems with the intakes on these trucks? oh btw 97 2wd with 4.6. Even with coolant getting into the cyl it still runs great just a little white smoke.... I really don't want to replace the engine I think it has a lot of life still in it.
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A local mechanic tells me I have a blown head gasket on my 2003 Saab 9-5. He also said there's coolant standing in one cylinder. If this is due to stretched head bolts, might I remedy the problem by replacing the head bolts and torqueing to specifications?
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I have a 91 Grand voyager and it seems to be loosing transmission fluid somewhere but no puddles anywhere.It looses between 3/4 and 1 quart a month an shifts fine. Where could this be escaping at as I drive it? What do I need to look at since its not dripping anywhere an I snugged the pan an didn't see it there?
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my car has tge 3.6 motor and has 2500 miles and seems to be loosing coolant...
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I started loosing a bunch of coolant on my tdi which is still under 36k and there is no visible leaks anywhere
Took the car to the dealer last night to get it checked out and they were ready to send me back home telling me there is no issue since they don't see any leaks under the car
Either way after telling them that I have already gone through 2 gallons of coolant they decided to top off the coolant and ask me to drive 200 miles.
I drove 156 miles last night since I need to get this issue resolved and now the coolant tank is empty again... sitting at the dealer while I'm typing this.
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I have a 2000 passat tdi, over the past months ive noticed that I have been loosing coolant through my coolant reservoir overflow, my car has been running perfectly, my mechanic told me that its likely to be a head gasket problem and he put ceramic sealer in the coolant system, which was a disaster, the coolant pressure became much worse and told he me I needed a new radiator, which he fitted, but there was no improvement, whilst my mechanic was working on the car he noticed that when my car was running if he removed the oil filler cap the engine breathed heavily, my mechanic told me that the engine would need replacing,so I should sell the car as soon as possible.
I found it difficult to believe my trusty VW was in such a bad state, as it has only done 87000s mile and has full service history and starts and runs like a dream. Today I went for a second opinion, they told me that the coolant problem was because of a defected water pump, with most likely the plastic impellers failing, and the engine breathing problem could be down to a blocked breather at the top of the engine.
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I have a 2000 honda civic ex that I recently bought used. It ran fine with no problems for a good month then the check engine light came on and it started overheating. I could smell burning oil and see smoke rising from the hood. I checked the coolant and it was all out. So I filled it back up. Drove about 20 miles and during the drive when sitting idle the car would shudder and jolt around for a second, after about 20 miles I could see the coolant that I just filled up was all gone. I could hear some bubbling sound, all of the coolant had burnt away and was steaming. I did some research and it could be a blown head gasket, but I'm not sure and was seeking how to fix it or to clarify if it was a head gasket.
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My mate has bought a mk4 golf and it is loosing coolant. There is no obvious signs of a water leak the car starts fine, goes up to temperature fine, only time the temperature rises is when the car has to work harder. (going up hill) then returns to normal.
Left the car today for a couple of hours and went to check the coolant level and the system was still under pressure when opening the expansion bottle top. There is signs of rusty water around the cars panels where the expansion tank is located. Previous owner said that it used 4 litres of water on a 330 mile round trip. previous owner said it could be the head gasket but there is no cream on oil filler cap.
There is no sign of water leaking from the heater matrix inside the car.
"2000" y reg mk4 golf 115bhp 1.9 gt tdi all standard
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I have a 1996 BMW 328is and recently it overheated on the way to work which is about 20 miles i pulled over let it cool down and now when i drive the car after about 5 minutes it starts overheating and is loosing coolant but i am pretty sure its burning out the exhaust now the person i had bought it from had replaced the head and head gasket no more than 8000 miles ago with thermostat and housing and water pump and radiator so now i get no heat in the car both upper and lower radiator hoses rock solid and burning the antifreeze.
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I LOVE my Super Duty and with only 15k on it (have a company truck) plan on keeping it for a long time. I've had an EGR Delete and new Oil Cooler along with some misc things done to the engine and turbo, about 6g's worth. Now my mechanic at NCB is telling me that the reason I'm loosing coolant is that my head gaskets are leaking. I'm looking at another 5-7 grand which is a no go for me. I'm thinking of doing the work myself, especially since I've seen where i don't have to remove the body to do it.
Okay, here is the question, I've been having a hard time finding a comprehensive list of the parts I should be getting to do the job. Looking for a list or link on what I need to do it correctly and anything I might want to do while my engine is apart so I don't have to do this again?
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Truck was throwing that collect temp different than oil temp light then started to heat. When I drove temp went down. When I stopped I checked coolant t as low and left orange rust dust around and under overflow I have topped off but can't find a leak. I clean it and it comes back I have a leak somewhere? Head gasket? But oil is fine I drive my truck 200 miles no issues?
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So I have a 98 f150 with the 4.6L V8. Been having some issues with it, first off it gets the standard film on the windows associated with a bad heater core, it doesn't leak fluid into the truck tho. But it does have an issue with heat. Also while driving the coolant system develops an air bubble and pushes fluid out the over flow. Also it periodically registers that it's over heating and goes into limp mode. if you press in the clutch and turn the truck off it resets and acts as if nothing ever happened.
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I've got a 7.3 tranny that has had ELC Coolant and water mixed in with tranny fluid because of a bad radiator. I drained the fluid from the tranny a week ago and when I pulled off the pan today there is still junk in there. I'm planning on putting in a new filter, gasket and Mercon V but how do I clean the old stuff out of there? Picture.....
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I have a Golf 1.8 t 2003 and when the car reaches 4000 rpm on 3rd gear it starts sputtering and can't go above that rpm. it sputters a bit on 2nd gear but at about 5000 rpm but it keeps accelerating. I couldn't try the other gears because i don't have a suitable to reach those speeds (traffic laws speed limits). I have noticed a slight tear on the connection between the hose from the air filter and the T hose. could that be the problem.
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I have a 1996 7.3 Power Stroke with 171,000 miles. I noticed I was burning oil the end of last year and changed the turbo as the seals were out of it and that slowed it down but did not resolve the issue, so i then moved to injector o'rings and replaced all of them, and after 1000 miles with the new orings and a new oil change i have still burnt 3 qrts.
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I have a 2003 toyota tacoma 4x4 with the 3.4l engine. Recently I have noticed that while accelerating I am losing power. I first noticed it would surge while going slowly uphill and since it has started happening all the time. I especially notice a serious dip in power during freeway acceleration at around 3000 rpm. The truck has 100000 miles on it. I have changed the plugs, run injector cleaner (the stuff you buy at the gas station), cleaned the throttle body, changed the air filter, and cleaned the mass airflow sensor. I have played a little with the throttle position sensor and that seems to have some affect on the timing of the surge but it is hard to tell. Of course toyota doesn't service the TPS for that year but rather try to sell you a new throttle body $1100.00!!! Could this be the catalytic converter or maybe a faulty injector? Also, I have not changed the timing belt yet.
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I am losing a small amount of antifreeze, about a cup every thousand miles, so I have to consistently add antifreeze. When i remove the oil fill cap, I have a small orange ring leading me to assume the loss is into the engine.
Dealer pressure tested system and told me everything was good, could not find a problem, which I think is likely not correct. How to proceed?
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I have a 1997 Ford F-150 XLT 4x4 with the 4.6W and a 4R70W trans. For the past year is has been leaking trans fluid and has slowly got worse and worse. At first the truck would only leak at high speeds (when driving on the interstate for extended periods of time) and now It has gotten to the point where I am adding close to a quart of fluid a week. ( roughly about a quart every 300 miles!). I thought that it was the pan gasket leaking at first, so I flushed the trans fluid (dropped the pan and drained the TC and put on a new filter) put a new gasket on and torqued it all down and added some new Valvoline max life fluid. The first trip in the truck I noticed a puddle of fluid under the truck again.
The pan looked like it could have been a little warped, so I ordered a new pan and a new FoMoCo gasket (the one the came with the new filter was the cheap felt type). I thought I for sure had fixed the truck this time, but I drove it and once again it was still leaking. I checked all that I could before replacing the pan and gasket. I checked the trans cooler lines and fittings (no leaks) I pulled the inspection plug and it was dry (so I ruled out the front pump or TC leaking). The whole underside of the truck is covered with fluid so it is hard to pin point the leak, but most of the fluid drips down on the transmission cross member.
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I have a 2006 SAAB 9-2X, that I just bough used with 116k. The car rides great and I am really enjoying it. The one problem is that there is an intermittent smell of burning. Some days its strong, some days there is no smell at all. It is really weird. I took it to my mechanic for its inspection and he passed it and said that the care looked great. I havent seen a leak, the check engine light is not on and there is no smoke.
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So, whenever I park the car after a trip it always leaks fluid when the A/C was on which I know is normal but now it seems to leak a lot more and I'm wondering if that's where all my coolant goes. Where exactly does it drip from from the A/C? Is that somewhere in the cowl?
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