SC/SL/SW :: Pulley Broke As Turned Into Driveway / Engine Will Turn Over But Won't Crank
Jul 30, 2015
99 Saturn SL2 Idling pulley broke as i turned into driveway....replace pulley the next day but now have a problem, engine will turn over but wont crank. what might i have broke or pulled loose while replacing the pulley?
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My tensioner pulley broke yesterday and I replaced it. But it had broken 3-4 months ago also.
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Oh where do I start. 2003 Santa Fe, V6 Auto, FWD.
The engine has been making a loud ticking noise lately, starting right after an oil change it seemed. It actually sounded a lot like a stuck lifter, so I had an engine flush done, but this did not remedy the problem. Popping the hood one day it was particularly noisy, I noticed that it sounded like it was coming from the serpentine belt tensioner (or there abouts).
Anyway, tonight, *something* finally gave. All of a sudden I heard a squealing noise, then smelled burning rubber, and my battery light came on, and I lost my power steering. I figured that the tensioner finally gave out.
I turned off the vehicle to see what I could see. A bit of melted S-belt was it. I restarted it, and the belt was turning fine again, but while it was idling, I noticed that the crank pulley was shifting in and out now and then. When it moved inward, the S-belt shifted in as well, and started to rub on the timing cover, wearing a hole right through it! Have a look at the attached photo, showing the grove worn right through.
So I'm assuming that my tensioner was fine, and it was my crank pulley all a long. I'm figuring that 3 thing will need replacing:
1. Crank Pulley (the source of the problem)
2. Serpentine Belt (since it's probably half melted)
3. Timing Cover (can't see that water getting in there would be good)
Does this sound accurate?
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I just got a 1998 F150 5.4l 4x4 autotragic. Was sold to me as needing trans, wouldn't start. Tossed in a new starter and solenoid, now I can hear the the starter turn crank pulley turns maybe a quarter inch and when I let off the starter it goes back to the same spot.
Fear is motor is locked, but question (i don't know automatics) is there any way that a bad trans could keep a motor from turning over? Truck rolls in neutral or drive, pulled the drain plug no water just oil. Tempted to just buy a running 5.4 with trans but if I can avoid that I'd prefer to.
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Noticed today in the snow, I was pulling out of the driveway in 2H and the rear tires broke loose, weird sound coming from the front end like the truck was trying to engage the 4 wheel drive but it wouldn't go in. Traction control? Threw it in 4H and the sound went away????
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I am working with Honda dealership management because I had my timing belt changed at 102,000 miles and 25,000 miles later The belt broke and frayed while driving in heavy traffic at night on freeway leaving me stranded in the median luckily instead of in the middle of the freeway. Honda dealership stating that the idle tension pulley caused the fraying of the belt not due to poor workmanship by their mechanics. I am asking dealership to consider assisting in payment because the day the belt went out, the car had been serviced for a oil change.
When I was called to be notified the job was complete I asked the service rep questions about the oil transmission and told him there was a noise in the engine could they check it or did they check it which she replied no that I would have to make another appointment for that. So even if I would've made appointment the next day the damage was already done because that night is when the belt broke Is this part of Hondas responsibility is it reasonable for them to take part responsibility. Also if the idol tension pulley had been changed at the same time of the belt, it would've saved my engine. So this is all my responsibility not theirs?
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The customer brought in her 130,000 mile 2000 Mercury Grand Marquis complaining that the starter would click several times as she turned the key again and again, before it would make the the engine crank like crazy. I saw that the positive battery cable was badly corroded, and replaced the aftermarket end with a new aftermarket end. Everything was nice and clean. No difference. I tested the battery for load voltage with my good old Sun VAT-60. It tested good, sufficient voltage after 15 seconds under a 100 amp load. I removed the fuel pump relay so that the car would not stay running for long, and then would not start when the starter did engage. It drew 120 amps while cranking. That's within spec for a fully warm engine.
I think what she has is a bad solenoid atop the starter, or perhaps a bad spot on the commutator that moves slightly with each click until the brushes are in another position. Then it will turn OK.
I think a new starter is needed. Am I on the right track? I don't want to crawl under it unless I have to, and she doesn't have money for me to make a mistake.
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Preparing for a timing belt replacement on a 2007 elantra. well aware of how to remove the crank pulley and do the job. My question is this : once you have the nut off, does the crank pulley come off by hand or is a puller required? came off nicely wiggling it by hand on any accent i've done, but never done this particular job with the elantra.
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So, yesterday I had my GLI in the shop to put a new timing belt on as well as some ECS Lightweight Pulleys. When I went to pick up the car, they did not install the pulleys. The reason they said was because the stock crank pulley has a dampener which keep vibration and balanced weight on the crank assembly and that the lightweight crank does not have these benefits.
So, now I have a set red anodized pulleys.. [URL].............
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Ever hear of a crank pulley failure? Mine did and took out the serpentine belt. I have 63,000 miles on the 07 and it was a big shock to see the pulley in two parts.
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I have an 1990 Toyota 4Runner. V6 engine. Automatic. 4wd. Today it blew an upper radiator hose. A few seconds after the initial pop of the hose and the spew of fluids the vehicle died. I replaced the upper radiator hose and the lower hose- and refilled the antifreeze. There are no leaks as of right now.
The engine will not start. The belts spin whenever the key is turned on. But the engine will not crank. You can hear the starter trying to start it up. Jumping the vehicle was of no luck. Charging the battery was of no dice.
The vehicle makes a whirring noise (belts spinning) when key is turned, but the engine does not crank at all. The noise stops as soon as you shut the key off. The oil is clean and full still.
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I recently had an issue with my car overheating so I changed the thermostat. About 3 months later it happens again. I know I need a new tensioner arm but I decide to wait on it. I take it to a place and have the radiator flushed and the guy calls me back to the garage and says your belt fell off... i was like o man, so he showed me how it would slip off the tensioner and i said ok and put a new tensioner on. He called me back and said he found a new problem my crank shaft pulley was wobbling a little. I didn't have enough money to have him check it out further so he said he would just finish the flush and go from there. after he finished the flush he said there is still a problem with the heating on the car. He didn't know if the problem came from the pump, the t stat, or something like a sensor. and it would cost alot in research time for him to find the problem and fix it. so i am going to take it to another mechanic. I have replaced the pump about 2 years ago, I replaced the thermostat about 3 times before the flush over about 1 years time, i replaced the stepper motors on the gauges since they went bad. and now I am at a loss on what to do next. I just wish that click and clack would come fix my car.
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Been trying to isolate my noisy serpentine belt. Had the belt off and spun everything, only thing I found that made any noise was the alternator. It had a nice churp like a bearing was on its way out in it. So I replaced that figuring my squeak was going to go away. No such luck. Listening to it again while it was idling, I crawled underneath. Almost seems like the churping noise is coming from the Crank Pulley. Is there a bearing on this pulley that goes bad?
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I am reviewing the ford assembly instructions before I put my engine back together and noted that it indicates that the balancer bolts are torque to yield. I thought it odd but is it really necessary to replace these? Is it done in practice?
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2004 sport track 4wd. never had issues..no oil burn, leaks, af use..nothing. was a great truck. going to work.heard a thump and truck shut down.
oil was high on dip stick..no AF left..it all went into motor on top. seized up engine and crank broke into pieces...done..
got a new engine put in this week.
Has this been an issue with these engines..or did I just have some bad mojo?
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2001 V6, 5sp .... Engine will not crank/turn over.
Dealer initially thought broken timing belt. They looked again today (through an inspection hole) and belt was still in place and under tension but some teeth seemed to be missing. They THINK it could be a seized water pump that caused this (there was otherwise no indication of a seized water pump). Cams/belts do not move when you try to start it. Dealer said engine would need to be replaced or the damage repaired from trying to start it and causing whatever internal damage this causes..heads, valves, etc. that's where it stands now.
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This is the first time I ever encountered this then again this is my first non-Honda/Acura vehicle. I pulled into my driveway turned the engine off , opened the door and the sound that signals your lights are on was blaring. I looked and did not have any lights on and all doors/hatch were shut. I could not figure it out why... then I noticed my right turn signal light was on.............. so I clicked it off and the noise stopped. Is this normal for the engine to be off and the signal light stay on and wail if it has not reset itself from a turn?
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Several months ago some kind of sensor was replaced on my 1991 Honda Accord. This was the case where the fan would sometimes go on after the engine was turned off. And to turn off the fan it was sometimes necessary to turn on the ignition.
What led up to all this was that one time I was driving up a fairly steep incline to a park. When I turned the engine off that is when the fan turned itself on.
Well, I drove up to that park the other day and the same thing happened (after the whatever was replaced). One thing different though, I did detect a faint whiff of what smelled like burning rubber when I exited the car (to check on the fan).
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When I crank the engine when it's cold, it cranks fine. Case in point: first thing in the morning and in the afternoon when I'm leaving the office to come home. However, if I crank the engine when it's already warm it takes significantly longer to turn over. It really doesn't feel like it wants to crank at all and pumping the gas pedal doesn't work with things even though its second nature from my old carburetor days. The fact that it only acts up when the engine is warm befuddles me! I remember reading something like this awhile ago and the culprit was a clogged "box that dissipates gases". It's a 2003 Passat with the 1.8 turbo. The car has been maintained according to the service schedule and runs like a champ with 100,349 on the odometer.
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I have a 1997 Pontiac sunfire the other week I was driving and it stopped on me the engine would crank but quickly turn off but everything inside the car would still be on k was told I needed a new cat and got that and a new muffler put on. This morning I went to leave for work and the same thing happened again! I was told it could be the fuel pump or fuel filter but it doesn't act weird while driving it. What could this be?
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Got a limited service campaign letter for right front seat sensor problem causing the AIR BAG OFF indicator to illuminate. Apparently certain conditions can turn on the Air Bag Off indicator. Question is, will the indicator turn off when the engine is turned off and restarted? Or once it is tripped it stays on whenever the ignition is on?
This car is turning into a pain, having to take it to the dealer for too many problems. Tempted to do nothing about this latest campaign, unless the light stays on.
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