SC/SL/SW :: SES Light Came On / Code Was P0112 - IAT Circuit?
May 2, 2011
I have a 1996 Saturn SL1. The SES light came on and I scanned it. First the only code was p0112. I replaced the IAT sensor. The light remained on, scanned again and the code told me to replace the Idle Adjustment valva. I replaced that, SES was still on. Scanned for the third time and it told me to replace the sensor in the exhaust. Replaced that, SES still was on. Scanned and got code for Intermittent Voltage problem with IAT. Drove 60 miles (as recommended) and that code and SES light went off for a few miles and then the original coded p0112 came back on. Pulling my freakin' hair out! Was told to check voltage at the connector cap of IAT. I did and found continuity to ground but no input signal voltage (5v I was told). Stripped the wires back behind the connector cap and still have no voltage from the PCM. My questions are:
1. When does the PCM send the 5v signal voltage to the IAT? When you start the car or later in the drive cycle?
2. My car has shifted badly for a while (small hitch when shifting into reverse after car is warmed up, not when cold). I found a thread that told that the 5v signal circuit could also be utilized by other sensors, one of which affects the transmission shifting.
3. Could the PCM be out? Would the car still run if it was out.
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I have a 2002 Jetta 1.8t. My check engine light came on and it gave me the code P0135 sensor heater circuit. Bank 1 Sensor 1. We bought a new 02 sensor and replaced it. We definitely bought the right one too. Cleared the codes. After a little driving the CEL came back on with the same code P0135. What is wrong and how I can fix this?
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I cleaned my k&n air filter on my 02 passat 1.8 turbo let it dry oiled it very lightly, and 50 miles later I get a check engine light on, pulled the code 16486 and it says Mass or Volume Air Flow Circ Low Input. Cleared the code put a frame in until I can get it filter. Why that would throw me that code, k&n oil gumming up my sensor??
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1996 izusu rodeo had check engine light on got code for egr valve. Replaced it light when out drove fine all day. Stopped at grocery store came back out would not start ... Will crank over but will not start. did a obg (two) scan get a p1640 output A circuit fault code along with a 1460 egr code ....
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I have a 2007 f150 sport. I am getting a 24 code on the airbag light and I do know that is Sensor output feed/return circuit open. What I do not know is where is this sensor located and what could it mean if I am getting the code...
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Engine light came on yesterday and started missing on take offs. Giving code p2285 Injector Control Pressure Sensor Circuit Low. I've done the research and understand the problem. It's the weekend and shops closed until Monday. Is it safe to drive in the mean time? Is there any risk of doing damage? What's the risk of it quitting or failing start in the short term, today?
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About two weeks ago I purchased an intake from a member here on vortex. I installed it, drove the R a few times, and ended up getting a CEL right afterwards for P0103 (maf circuit high). Does this have anything to do with the intake install? Car runs absolutely fine.. no weird issues. Never heard of an intake causing a code like that. Cleared it.. it came back.
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My mother has a 1999 Camry 4cyl. that has code P0340. She says that she was driving down the road and felt like a misfire, saw the MIL turn on. When she let off the gas, she said the car stalled. It is a crank no start issue now. I was able to pull the code, but really am not familiar with Toyotas in General. I am mechanically inclined but do not have access to media such as All Data or a Service manual. Do this is most likely the sensor itself or more of an ECU issue?
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I keep having the P0102 (MAF Circuit Low) code come up. I've replaced the MAF twice already. I also have the P0113 (Intake Air Temp Sensor) which has been replaced as well. Could the breather hose coming off the Intake Air Duct leading to the oil cooler cause this.
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My 98 blazer (130k)recently started showing code p0740 tcc circuit malfunction..
The truck runs fine (except for the water pump I just blew) this is a tranny solenoid code. but my tranny seems to be shifting ok..
Is the solenoid easy and cheap enough to replace myself? I am trying to make up my mind if its time to start thinking of trading this blazer in on something with less miles or to fix it up and keep on trucking..
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My check engine light is on. I got the code pulled at Advance Auto Parts. It is P0107 - MAP Sensor Circuit Low Input. I wanted to test the MAP sensor to see if it is bad. I couldn't find anything online that was Santa Fe or even Hyundai specific as far as testing procedures go. I know you can test the power wire, the ground wire, and the signal wire, from what I could tell from other places I've looked. I got 5ish volts from the power wire and 12ish volts on the ground wire, which is what I understand they should be. I don't have a vacuum pump at the moment, but testing the signal wire with no vacuum I got about 0.02 volts. From what I've read online, it should be around 5 volts, but I wasn't sure if all MAP sensors work the same way. Whether I'm doing this correctly and whether they think the sensor is bad?
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So today i got my first check engine in the .:R. I was merging onto the freeway and i shifted into third rather enthusiastically (didn't redline in 2nd but i was probably at 6k rpm) and put it into 3rd gave it the gas and the tires squealed and I got the traction control light. Has me a little worried since the traction control light didn't go off afterwards. Got off the freeway and pulled into a parking lot and turned it off for a minute and when i started back up I got the check engine light also. Went to schmucks and pulled the codes and the only code I was able to pull up was P0102 MAF circuit low. I highly doubt my traction control light has anything to do with the MAF circuit. I notice when in 1st and 2nd gear (can't really tell about beyond 2nd because there is too much road noise) there is a slight whine. I cleared the codes and the check engine came back but the traction control light never went off.
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The check engine light came on in my 1997 Honda Accord and the OEM diagnostic says it's PO501 which is a performance problem in CVT speed sensor circuit. My mechanic is on vacation. Is it safe to drive short distances until I can have it fixed?
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I have 94 SE camry with the 3.0L V6 1MZ-FE engine and has individual coil packs. I'm getting a P1300 Igniter Circuit Malfunction. I have checked it out per the procedures EG2.pdf. I'm down to step 8 and the voltages are little different between the 6 points. started checking out the ground at the ECM per IN36 instructions. it appears that from pin #27 & 28 are not grounded to the ECU case.
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SC430 came up with the check engine light, showing a "Oxygen Heater Circuit Malfunction", code P0155 (bank 2, sensor 1). Searching, I found out this is the oxygen sensor in the passenger side exhaust manifold.
My car is high mileage (over 130K), it's hard to justify purchasing a $230 sensor and paying for installation. My only goal is to keep the check engine light from turning on and passing state inspection/emission (the check engine light will prevent passing inspection/emission in my state).
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2001 jetta 2.0 VW guys a while back I was pulling a code saying that the air temp sensor circuit was low I believe it was P0112 so I replaced the maf with a bwd maf. Said it was for the car. Was fine for a day but now it has a P0102 code and the epc stays on (rough idle) what could be wrong ? Is it because the car hasn't learned the new sensor yet because I've only drove 10km or do I have a faulty sensor. BTW replacing the maf fixed the P0112 code
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My wife's 2003 Altima has been stalling. The MIL came on P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit. I did a little research and it seems that it is pretty common for that sensor to go bad, so I bought a new one. The problem is I can't get the wires off the old one. It is in such a ridiculous place. There is no line of sight anywhere. It has to be done completely by feel. Supposedly, I should be able to push the button until it clicks and then remove the connector. When I push the button, it definitely clicks - but it doesn't stay clicked. It clicks right back out before I can pull on the connector. How can I keep that button clicked in when I can't see anything and I can just barely get one hand down in there?
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Got the CEL Bank 1 Sensor 2 heater circuit fault. Is that the rear right post-cat oxygen sensor? What is correct part number or possibly a link? 2002 2.8l Passat V6...
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CODE P0102 "Mass or Airflow circuit low input" That was the code and upon checking my records prior to storing it for the year. I installed a new IAC,MAF, Fuel Pump and lots of new hoses, PCV, Fuel injection regulator. The Vehicle has only 110K miles. Now here is the clincher, after doing just the fuel pump it ran perfect for at least 25 miles, perfect I say. When I shut if off I got the check engine light, and thus the code which led me to install the other stuff. Now after pondering the matter, seems that it acted in a similar way PRIOR to my doing anything but there was no code previously. Like maybe some strange electrical connection, or something.
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2006 F350 6.0 throwing code P0480 and I'm having a hard time figuring anything out pertaining to my truck. Trying to figure out what exactly it is and how to fix it myself.
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I am having a problem repairing my 1997 aerostar with a 3.0 engine. Code PO340 comes up. Ive replaced the cam sensor, cam sensor housing and the pcm. Using the diagnostic charts, I've thoroughly checked out the wiring, in the harness, at the sensor, and at the pcm. I've set the cam sensor housing at TDC with the appropriate timing tool. Code P0340 still comes up. I've seen a couple of other aerostars with the same problem. Ford TSBs .....
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