SC/SL/SW :: Emergency Brake Handle Won't Hold / Slipping
Dec 12, 2011
My friend's Emergency Brake is tricky: It usually doesn't hold, but pops off again. Its as if the 'teeth' somewhere inside were worn or maybe a ratchet has been rounded.
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The emergency brake doesn't hold on my truck. It's two-wheel-drive. Is there any way to adjust it?
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I have a VW Jetta 2012 and I would like to know how to take out only the leather from the Emergency brake handle as shown in the picture.
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Just replace both ebrake cables, and rear brakes are all new including wheel cylinders and drums. No matter how much i pull up on the handle, the wheels wont lock up, and they should drag the wheels, but nothing. Something wrong? Barely stops car when put in drive too. Seems like my other accent would drag the wheels all over the place.
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Several months ago I noticed that the fuel door switch on my '09 Sonata started to work worse and worse... would take two, three, four hits before the lid opened. Fast forward to now. While the door opens perfectly fine with the manual release (in trunk), the button no longer works no matter how many times I press it. When depressed, no noise is noticeable in the fuel door area. What the root cause is and what the fix should be? Is this something only a dealer can properly diagnose? The trunk release button still works fine both on the remote and in the car.
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Clutch is starting to slip - can't handle torque above 3k in 6th gear.
6500 miles on the car
700 miles with module
Never launched - just wind out gears occasionally
Don't have to ride clutch on hills
Not a daily driver - not stuck in traffic
I shift like a granny...
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The red dash light for my parking brake stays on until I jiggle the brake handle, then it stays off until I re-start the car the next time and then it goes on again. Brake fluid is fine.
Appears to be a faulty switch attached to the handle. How do I fix this? Is it a major job? [it's a 1998 Honda Accord]
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Let my brother borrow my 98 S-10 and before he even got home with it he called and said the brake light was on. I figured it was the emergency pedal was down a little. Said there were no leaks. Got it back today and the fluid level is way down. Filled, but the low pedal is still there. Can find no leaks. Also the ck engine light is on. May not be related. Didn't get a chance to ck code.
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Okay let me start by saying my car is APR Stage 1. The other day I was driving with my cruise control on and held in the accelerate button to speed up. After holding in the button for a couple seconds the check engine light and battery light flashed back and forth as if I changed some setting with the tune. Ever since that happened, if I turn the TCS off, the emergency brake light comes out and the error message 'check brake pads' is displayed on the MFI. Also, the weird part is that it's not just the light. The actual emergency brake is slightly on without pulling the handle. I can feel it when I accelerate. It's harder to get the car going. Once I turn the car off and leave it off for a few hours it goes back to normal. Why this is happening?
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My 2007 Prius has started making an unusual sound. At first I thought it was some kind of pump or something, but now???
When I put on the emergency brake, the brake pedal or when I put the car in park or take it out of park and put it in D, it makes a "chuck chuck chuck" sound, not high pitched, but not a low sound either. It seems to be coming from under the hood on the left side. It sounds something like a belt slipping or a pump with a squeak maybe?
It does not appear to make this noise when simply depressing the brake while driving, so I'm not sure it's the same abs actuator issue.
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Do you use Emergency Brake every time you Park, and why?
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I just bought a 2001 1.8t passat and the emergency brake the other day stopped working. The button is pushed in all the way and will not come back out, so it does not click when the brake lever is pulled up and will come back down when let go of. The brakes do work when the lever is pulled however. Also, keeping the car in 1st gear while parked is alright? Even on a hill?
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe with the 2.7L V6. There is a recurring issue where the ABS and Emergency Brake light come on, followed by the fuel gauge dropping to E, then all lights dimming until they go out. The car continues to run, but if you shut it off it won't start for about 30 minutes, then it start just fine with full power. The alternator and battery have been replaced twice in the last 10 months, most recently 3 days ago. The problem persists. I did find the right downstream O2 sensor to have broken wires which were causing a short. I replaced the O2 sensor and wiring harness, which cleared all engine codes, however the problem does still exist.
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Had this issue on my first Touareg as well as the replacement. When you pull the emergency release handle (firmly and all the way) it doesn't fully release the brake. You realize this when the vehicle begins moving and you get the "Release Emergency Brake" message in the MFI.
They replaced the emergency brake assembly. The service rep told me before he returned the car to me that his tech was less than satisfied with the design of the hydraulic assembly and that he expected it to develop the issue again. He was right. Two weeks later the thing is sticking again.
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There is no tension when I try to engaging the brake and thus the brake itself doesn't engage as if the cable snapped or has become disconnected.
Lost the use of emergency brake?
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I have an 03 Gx 470, original owner, 220K miles. When I go on the brakes the emergency brake light comes on on intermittently, not all the time, even when driving along sometimes it just comes on.... Braking seems fine, don't feel any issues.
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Emergency brake light, VSC, ABS, and (!) On, after 02 sensor replacement by local shop. I'm having trouble with my 2004 Prius. I have been having this issue shortly after having an 02 replacement. It has about 232,xxx miles and instantly I started having issues.
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The dash DRL indicator comes on most of the time when I release the emergency brake. It seems that other times it doesn't. It also seems the indicator turns off after about 20 minutes. Does this sound normal, or does it sound like I have an electrical issue?
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I have a 97 Honda Accord, 147k miles. Is it a good idea to engage the emergency brake one or two clicks while having to brake while going downhill (while stopping at a stop sign or traffic light)? I feel that without using the e-brake, the front brakes are being overworked.
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I just bought an '07 Prius with all the options except leather, and when I took my wife out to show her how it works, it didn't. The emergency brake light wouldn't go off and the shifter light on the dash would only go to neutral. We turned it off and on again (more than once) and finally the e. brake light went off and the zero showed up for speed and we could go. I'm wondering if there is some safety feature that won't let you engage to go until the e. brake is released. And if the light is on, the car thinks the e. brake is still engaged. Plausible? How do I fix it? Would this be the switch on the pedal?
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There are a few threads on a sticking parking brake resulting in the warning light remaining on. Mine has developed to a stage that it requires a toe under the foot pedal every time to silence the alarm.
I finally stuck my head in the footwell this morning to look at the mechanism, expecting to see a strained spring. However there was no spring in evidence and I saw that when the parking break is released, the cable remains with some free play above the contact point with the pedal: i.e. there is no tension on the cable when the pedal is released, there is about 15mm of "free cable", leaving the pedal almost "floppy".
Observations
1) The pedal has no spring to return to it's correct position. Based on self study guide SSP_277 this is not as it should be as on page 37 this discusses a spring mechanism in the pedal
2) I would image there should be tension in the cable even when released; I feel the rear mechanism requires inspection as there are springs there.
3) While the parking brake works fine, It has a lot more travel that it previously had. Thus something is worn, stuck, or the self adjusting mechanism is not working.
4) For the record, car has 110K miles, the temperature is above freezing, the behaviour is not weather dependent and the parking brake has been routinely used (2008 car).
5) My recollection from new is the parking brake was released with a significant spring action: quite abruptly.
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