SC/SL/SW :: Dash Lights Flickering - Car Wants To Turn Over But Won't Start
Apr 30, 2012
I started the car this morning, plugged the phone charger into the lighter socket, noticed the charger light wasn't on, pressed the charger in tighter, the car started to run funny, then it cut off. Lights work, radio won't work, all fuses are alright upon several visual inspections. Car wants to turn over but won't start. I tried disconnecting the negative battery cable to see if the car would revert back to "normal". I have never had a problem with this car in the two years I've had it; the battery was purchased brand new in November of 2011. I unplugged the cigarette lighter to see if that would work but nothing so far. Could it be the ignition switch?!
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I have a 2003 Camry V6 LE.
Yesterday the headlights did not turn off automatically when the car was locked up after being driven for about 30 minutes. Unfortunately, this was not detected until about 8 hours later.
The door locks would not function with the remote and the doors were manually unlocked.
When I got in the car and tried to start the car the dash and dome lights began blinking/flickering, the CD player ejected the CD, and the security light was blinking as it would if the doors were still locked.
The battery was too low to start the car so I jumped the car to start it and got home.
Battery showed 12.7 volts cold the next morning before the car was started. While running there was about 14.3 volts across the battery terminals which would seem to say the charging system is OK. Battery is just under 3 years old.
Doing some testing, I found that the headlights would turn on with the multifunction switch without the car running. In this case they would not turn off through locking the doors even after double clicking the lock button on the remote. The only way to turn them off in this case was through the multifunction switch.
Other testing shows that if the lights were turned on with the car running, they would turn off automatically within about 30 seconds or so when the car was shut off and the doors locked. In another similar test with the engine running and then shut down I also tried the double click lock using the remote and this also turned the lights off immediately.
Based on research on TN site, one recommendation for a similar, but not identical, problem was to replace the multifunction switch. No one suggests replacing the headlight relay or any of the 4 DRL relays.
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The last month or so, I have noticed that my dash board lights (red lights) and my actual interior lights that come on when you open the doors to vehicle will flicker sometimes...And it can get bad I guess and annoying. It's more of it pulsating really. I noticed today while driving home and I had the radio on loud it was doing it and I do not know if was just in my head that it was doing it more when the radio was loud or what, but this is ridiculous.
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the flickering stopped after 10 mins and hasnt come back. is this an alternator problem or loose battery cables/ground strap?
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I have a very strange electrical issue and CarMax is unable to find the source.
Detail of issue: It started 2 months ago before i left the country i took my car in to get the dreaded valve gasket cover and alternator and after taking the car back i left for Europe for 2 months. I was informed after 2 weeks that my car battery died and had to be jumped.
When I returned home I notice the following issues
1) Alternator Whine in my Sound System
2) Low frequency noise synchronized with engine rev that was triggering the sub low end making a very distinct wooom.
3) Sudden Power Loss for my secondary AMP. The base would cut on /off.
4) Light flicker in my Dashboard (only the GEAR LED) and the entire climate LCD. flicker also synchronized with engine rev.
5) POWER drop on the air con fans while breaking (the RPM would drop)
6) I saw the headlights where also flickering at the same frequency with the LCD and dash led a very noticeable flicker.
7) my headlights would dim when breaking.
8) My Car would start a bit slower (not as instant as before).
Initially i thought it was the my secondary amp that was causing the issue. I took the car to a great Audio shop and they said the On board Hyundai amp was sending weird signals. They said it was broken and i should have it replaced. I told them to disconnect the AMP from the car and leave it disconnected until i take the car back to Carmax.
I was hoping that was the cause ... it wasn't the lights keep flickering (at a far lower intensity probably due to the lower power consumption overall).
What could cause all of this. Alternator I had the alternator replaced two weeks ago (apparently it was broken). I changed 3 alternators in this car. Valve Gasket, Valve Gasket(they were retarded and didn't listen to what i told them) and broken.
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At 130,000 I replaced the transmission. Now, randomly the car has flickering lights on the dash while I am driving. The radio flickers, and the tach/speedometers drop to zero. After this happens and I turn off the car, the car will not restart. It is completely dead. If I wait 2.5 minutes, there is much clicking in the dash, then everything comes back to life. No one can figure it out. I will add that in the 9 years I've owned this thing, I have replaced 5-6 batteries. The transmission guy says something is pulling on the battery, but he nor Honda can figure out what it is.
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I just put in a new starting battery, and it still won't start. When I turn the key to start, the dash just goes dark. It had been sitting for about three months.
2001 Prius
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I went to get in car today, and the driver screen, needles, and dash lighting was flicking or pulsing.. like a wave rolling through the lcd. its got 1k miles on it, jsw tdi.
i did open the trunk, without unlocking from fob, just trunk button, then it auto locked again when i shut it. have never done that before, so maybe this causes it? i let it sit awhile, and all back to normal.
on a side note, got my 20% tint on all around today and looking good need a drop then wheels.
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I will start out with a little history of the situation. A little over three months ago my original altenator died with over 200,000 miles on it. I took it in and had it replaced (they used a refurbished altenator) and about a 1-1/2 months later is when the issue started. The headlights and dash lights will flicker and whenever they dim, the volt gauge will go down.
When the lights come back to normal brightness the volt guage will also go back to normal. All this will go on for random lengths of time as I am driving. I took the vehicle back to where I had the altenator replaced and they replaced it again under warranty. About another 1-1/2 months went by and the same thing started happening. I took it back to the same garage and this time they put in a brand new altenator. Finally about a week after this last visit to the garage the symptoms came back.
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I have a 2002 Subaru Outback Wagon. In May this year the OEM battery finally wore out, I was feeling poor so I bought a used battery from the local auto parts store. 2 months later, one day my car started chugging like it was having trouble starting and sounded like the battery was dying but then did start. Later that day it wouldn't start at all. Wouldn't turn over at all, but dash lights came on with key turn. Tried to jump it, wouldn't jump start. I bought a refurbed starter, had it put it, car starts.
A week later the same thing happened. Won't jump, no turn over, dash lights on when key turn. Had the battery tested, it was "good". Had the starter pulled, it was bad, put another refurbed starter in. Also replaced cables to the battery, and the clamp things that go on the cables to the battery. A week later, same thing, won't turn over, dash lights on with key turn. I was in the Costco parking lot when it happened this time, and got the tire mechanic to try to jump it. It jumped but was chugging like crazy and smoke came out of somewhere. The mechanic said he really thought it was a bad battery, that it sounded like the motor was trying to run off the alternator. I bought a new battery from Costco, and returned the used one to the parts store. When the used one was taken out, the mechanic said he could smell battery acid and it might have had a bad cell.
Now, the car will start when the engine is cold, but when I drive somewhere and it gets nice and hot (I live in Florida), it will not start again unless it is completely cold, or I get a jump. At least it will jump start now without a problem. I have had a mechanic use his little tool to check for computer codes, and of course there are none. I need to solve it not starting at all unless it is stone cold. My question is, what do you think is wrong?
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I have a 2000 Mercury Sable that will not start. The battery is good. All the dash lights come on when you turn the key and I can hear the fuel pump, pump up. The starter does not make any noise, nothing happens at all.
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My frend has a 89 Sebring that won't start all the dash light come on but turn the key and it doesn't do a thing....
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Ford Focus 2004 manual 150K miles. Most days the car runs fine. Other days it will start and run until it warms up, then stumbles or hesitates at speed. When this happens the headlights and dash lights are also flickering. Sometimes i hear a clicking sound behind dash, left side. I have the sure cure: turn the heater fan to high. This works every time. When the engine is hesitating, i turn the fan to 4-high, the engine smooths out. Turn the fan down, engine again hesitates. Hesitates at 3, worse at 2, worst at 1. It seems to need the extra load.
But after few minutes of high heater fan, the alternator light comes on. I flick the heater switch down, endure the hesitation for a few seconds, the alternator light goes out, engine still hesitating, flick the fan to high, engine smooths out. A few months ago i could get it to fun smoothly with the fan on 3, didn't need 4-high. Now seems to need 4.On the days when it is always running smoothly, the heater fan can be on any speed, the alternator light does not come on.
Next few days or even weeks the engine will run smoothly, no hesitation, with the fan on or off or any setting.
The car has been to three shops in past year, one of them a major Ford dealer, who kept it two weeks. The problem has been diagnosed as battery (replaced), Battery connections (checked), plugs (replaced), fuel pump controller (replaced), fuel pump (replaced - ouch!), alternator (replaced twice - ouch twice), grounds (checked). Every time they "fix" something the car runs ok for a week or so.OBD shows P2004 (intake manifold runner stuck) but all agree it can't be the problem.
There have been a few times when i flicked the heater fan to high that all the dash lights died, fan went off, headlights off, turn signals didnt' work, but the engine ran smoothly. Not so good on the highway at night!There have been a few time, not recently, when the car wouldn't start. No dome lights, no dash lights with key turned to ON, no clicking or starter with key turned to START. It acted as if my battery was missing. The cure was to turn the headlights on. All normal after that.
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I have tried resetting the ECU via fuse pull. I have confirmed brake lights work (as do all of the lights). Car has just 66K and simply will not start at all. Battery terminals clean and connected.
ECU?
ECU Capcitor leakage?
This thing is a blast to drive, but has so many issues and is not stuck in my garage!
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Here is the issue:I own a 96 Impreza. Recently, I went to the grocery store and when I tried to leave the car wouldn't start. I had it towed to my house. The dashboard lights and stereo flicker and when I try turning the key no sound. If I try to honk the horn, there is a buzzing sound coming from the passenger side. If I try to turn the emergency blinkers there is a buzzing too. The automatic lock doesn't work .The out side lights don't work either. The "key has been left in" sound does work. I tested the battery with a multimeter and it is working fine. A friend mentioned the ignition switch but would this affect the locks too?
tl;dr: Nothing electric works. The lights flicker and somethings make a buzzing sound. The battery is fine. Could the ignition switch cause the locks not to work?
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Disclaimer: When I refer to lights, I mean the back-lit radio controls.
Noticed they're lights flicker when they turn off the car? It doesn't happen all the time and just kinda weird.
I have a 2014.5 SE Sport and the only thing I can think of is I always have my parking lights on (cuz I turned off DRL) but they always turn off when I open my car. Each time I try to record it, it stops doing it. It usually only last for a few seconds but just thought it to be odd.
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I have a bizarre issue, once the car is running about 20 minutes, the seat belt icon on dash and passenger seat belt light (unoccupied) start flashing. Then the flashing become more like a flickering with a noise. At this time all power windows become sticky and operate under the same bop if you will as the seatbelt light. The doors the will not lock and the alarm will not work. Today it took me about 6 minutes just to close one window and i had to lock the car manually. After a few hours with the car being off, everything works fine again, then another 20 minutes of driving the issue reappears.
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So today, I started my Lexus Ls600hl and the lights were flickering and the car wont start. Then on the Dash it has the yellow ! icon and the lcd says Parking brake not available.... The car wont start. I tried disconnecting the battery etc. nothing. Then i jumped the battery and got it to turn on, but it says parking brake not available - see dealer for information. But the car runs fine and everything now - But i don't understand the warning, the parking brake wont engage anymore. I will take it to the dealer tomorrow to see what's wrong.
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I've had my '07 Volvo S40 2.4i for almost a year. It has a little over 60K miles on it and is serviced regularly. Within the last 3 months, I've noticed some weird things happening occasionally:
-Trouble starting when cold (I understand this is pretty common with a lot of cars.)
-Headlights & interior lights flickering
-Going over "bumps" in road causing dash display lights to illuminate for a second, radio to shut off, and loud system "BEEP" comes through the speakers (this has happened 3 times total, all on the same day.)
-AC stops cooling periodically I've had the system scanned for the AC issue and it seems that there was a "Pump pressure" message that cleared itself at one point and am guessing the same thing has happened the next few times it's done this.
I also asked that the battery be checked to see if it needed to be replaced soon. The mechanic said the battery was fine and thinks it's something wrong with the entire electrical system.
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When I turn the lights on , the dash lights go out on my 1988 k1500 silverado.
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I flush mounted my bass knob where the extra spaces are next to the esc button and light dimmer, in order to take that out i unplugged those two harnesses and now when i put it all back together my dash lights wont turn on (speedometer , temp, gas) along with where the a/c buttons are. What fuse would it be? I checked the one that said cluster but that wasn't it, what else could it be?
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