SC/SL/SW :: 99 Saturn SL2 Will Turn Over But Not Crank
Jul 31, 2015
99 Saturn SL2 will turn over but not crank. No fire to the plugs,,,,,,,change out the crankshaft positioning sensor, removed and cleaned ignitions module and coil pack, still wont crank and still no fire to the plugs.
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vue would crank, not start. 5 min later it started. done this 3 times in 1 month. changed original fuel filter. am leaning towards fuel. vs spark. no codes. I see pump assy's for $175. or a pump alone for $30. if I remove tank and pump assy, would there be any issue with changing pump alone? not paying shop so its my effort the last gm pump assy I did had a working pump but corrosion on leads to pump inside tank. I replaced assy because I had already bought assy.
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When I went to go shopping this afternoon, I discovered my car wouldn't start. It wouldn't even crank, which was strange since it seemed to be running fine just two days ago. At this point I assume either the battery is bad or something else is. It's a bit hard for me to tell since the engine wouldn't even try to turn over.
Initial Observations: When I first tried to turn the the car on it wouldn't even turn over, in fact, all I could hear was the a fairly loud buzzing from behind the dash board. On further attempts I noticed that the info display (or whatever it's called) wasn't displaying the tire pressure readings. I did later notice some "reluctance" from the automatic door mechanism, and earlier this week I observed my car was a bit more reluctant than usual to start, but I assumed it was just the cold weather. After the initial attempt to get my car started, I tried jumping it, but no luck. It still wouldn't start or even turn over. If it's the battery, said battery must have a dead cell, however, wouldn't the engine still try to "turn"?
Later observations: I tried again this evening after it had gotten dark, since it would let me observe the headlights and such. Same behavior as before. I couldn't really tell if lights had dimmed. HOWEVER, when I tried yet again a little later I accidentally set off the alarm. Now I observed the lights were dim and the horn weak.
Additionally, when I turned the alarm off I heard that buzz behind the dash again. Most of what I've seen makes me lean toward the battery, but this noise bothers me and makes me wonder whether there may be some kind of electrical fault.
Other information: My car is a 2008 Saturn Aura, that I got used in Jan of 2010. I assume the battery is at least that old, since I haven't gotten it replaced while I've owned it.
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1998 Saturn SL2 no crank, I just turned the ignition key it cranked for 3 seconds, then stopped. then no more cranking.
Open the hood saw a little smoke at the center back of the engine. I did not determine where it was coming from. Smoke always worries me, hope the engine isn't seized up.
I also had a trouble moving the transmission selector handle back & forth between park & Neutral trying to crank the engine. My guess is starter, but would like to check easy solutions first.
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Ii have a '98 sc2 and its been sitting in my yard for a while. It started out one day when i got in it, turned the key and then it turned over but wasn't starting. We hooked it to a computer and it showed no bad signal so we bought a new computer for my car and that didn't work either. We changed the coil packs and the crank sensor and still nothing.
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2001 Saturn SL1, 143,000 miles; well maintained. For about a week, I had intermittent no crank/no start. Lights and radio worked. A single, audible click occurred when I turned the key. When I was able to start the car, it ran fine. I suspected a failing starter.
The next time I tried to start the car, however, it roared to life only to run like an asthmatic locomotive. It idled low, at about 500 rpm, and shook badly. When I stepped on the gas, the engine smoothed a bit and the headlights flickered. There was no CEL or battery light, except for one brief moment when I revved the engine to about 2000 rpm.
Now, when I try to start the car, it starts just fine, but runs for about 2 seconds before stalling out. I installed a new battery in September 2012 and I changed the plugs in early 2013 – both routine, preventative measures.
Any chance I flooded the engine while trying to start it, even though it's a fuel-injected engine? If so, how do I "unflood" it?
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A month ago I got into my truck in the morning and when I turned the key to Run everything lit up like normal and after the glow plugs warmed up, I turned the key and there was about a two second delay between me turning the key and the engine cranking over.
The next couple times I tried starting the truck that same morning I had to try to start it a couple times because it wouldn't try to crank over the first couple times but it would always eventually start.
It's been continuing to give me problems but never stopped running once it was started and then this morning I tried starting it for 45 minutes with no luck.
What I have tried so far is:
Resetting batteries
Jumping the truck
Checked to see if the starter is getting power. ( I put wire testers on it while someone else started and I didn't get a good reading even when it did start. New starter was put in 9 months ago.)
I also made sure wire going to starter wasn't corroded
Battery terminals are also not corroded
Checked fuses
Tried starting truck with fan clutch disconnected
Cussing at it
Tapping starter with a hammer while trying to start it
Also, everything sounds perfectly normal when I turn the key, it just doesn't even try to turn over.
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so all of a sudden when I turn the key it seems to have an extremely long crank to turn over, almost like im holding it down to long, i can turn it quick and let it go and it will catch, hold it longer than normal and let it go and it will still catch...took it to the dealer and had them scan the car but there are no codes/faults coming up......its been doing it for a week now and today it won't start at all, it just keeps on cranking but won't turn over but yet I still have codes or faults....battery is good cuz I had it tested as well.
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After driving through a downpour, my headlights wouldn't turn off. I pulled the fuse, and when I put it in again, the passenger side headlight wouldn't turn on- checked the bulb, it's ok, amateur mechanic from the hood tried to ground a wire, nothing. I read that the schematics for the headlight wiring are odd in this car. Looking for a solution my mechanic in the hood could try before going elsewhere. Saturn 2002 SL....
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I have a 2002 Saturn L300 V-6 3.0L. The car always starts okay when it's cold, like overnight cold. After I've run it for at least 20 minutes to half an hour, then turn it off and leave it for about the same amount of time (i.e., 20 minutes to half an hour), it will sometimes, but not always, fail to turn over when I try to restart it. The battery is fine, there's plenty of juice, the starter cranks aggressively, but the engine won't fire up. My mechanic said the fuel pressure was low, about 20 lbs, when it should have been 50-70 lbs, so he replaced the fuel pump, but the problem is still there.
He also blew air through the fuel lines to test for obstructions, but there were none. Now he thinks it could be the on-board computer or a defective anti-theft device which is intermittently sending the wrong signal to the fuel pump. On one occasion when the car wouldn't turn over, he said there was 0 lb fuel pressure. Since the car starts maybe 90% of the time with no problem, it's difficult for my mechanic to work on it. He doesn't have time to drive it around town to warm it up, and I'm getting tired of going to his shop and taking the car out for a spin once or twice a day in the hope that, when I bring it back to him and we let it cool down, it won't start. What else to check?
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My father who is elderly, has difficulty disengaging the steering column lock on his 2006 Saturn Vue. I also have experienced this problem even after trying to rock the wheel back and forth while trying to turn the key over. This appears to be a known problem and we have had to tow the Vue in for have the cylinders "de-burred," but the problem persists. He has had many vehicles with this feature in the past, but we have never had any problems before. Does this feature can be disabled. I am afraid he will be stranded some place away from home because he is unable to get the car started. I realize this is an anti-theft device, but it that is a risk we are willing to take.
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My 1997 Saturn SL2 has run so great until now. It has 150,500 miles on it. I drove home Tuesday, parked. Wednesday morning, it would not start. Would not turn over, or make any sound at all. We have determined it is not the battery or alternator, so we thought it was the starter. I got a starter and we installed it yesterday. Turned the key and still absolutely nothing. (same as before.) We've looked at all the fuses and they all look fine, but we switched some around of the same type and still no difference. The headlights, interior lights, radio, and everything work when I turn the key, just no crank. What else could it be? I'm so broke I can't tow it to a car parts place to have a diagnostic hooked up.
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I don't know much about cars. The battery in my 1997 Saturn SL2 wouldn't hold a charge, so instead of jumping my car each time I needed to use it, I bought a battery and had my fiance install it. After the new battery was put into the car it started right up, but the next morning when I went to go to work it wouldn't start. It makes a noise like it wants to start it just won't actually do it.
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I have a 2000 Saturn SL1 that died while driving. The battery was tested ok! When you turn the key all the lights come on. Turn it to start and all the lights go out except the SES and security lights. I have tried a method of resetting the security system by turning the key on then briefly to start. Letting it set and repete about 3 times or so. But it does nothing for the present issue.
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I have a 2000 Saturn with about 140,000 miles on it. This morning after driving a short distance (maybe 2blocks) to the local gym my car wouldn't start when I came out about an hour later. When I put the key in and give it the first turn to the "run" (think that is what it's labeled) position the dash lights headlights, ac, radio, etc all turn on fine, however when I try to turn it to "start" nothing happens. No noise, no clicking, nothing.
This is the second time this has happened to me, first time was roughly a month ago pretty much the exact same situation drove a short distance this time the car was only off for maybe 10-15 minutes and wouldn't start. However, that time when I went back to my car about 30 minutes later it started just fine, that was not the case this time.
After that first time I brought my car into the local shop to see what the problem was, the mechanic couldn't find anything wrong. Can't recall everything he said he checked (battery, starter, alternator if I recall) and said everything was good and the conclusion he came to is that I must have left a light on or something. Which I didn't, as it was in the middle of the day and my dome light is always set to off anyways and the headlights weren't on and the doors were all properly closed and what not.
Also, I had the battery and spark plugs replaced about a year ago and aside from that everything in my car seems to be working fine...
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when I turn key to start car there is a loud clicking noise somewhere behind the glove box, it quits after a while, what is the problem?
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My daughter's 1998 Saturn S-series will not start. It will turn over fine but will not fire until I shoot some starter fluid down the intake. Then it fires up and runs fine. It consistently will not crank unless I shoot the starter fluid to it. I can hear the fuel pump prime up when I turn the switch on. The Saturn dealer says it may be the ECM but I have my doubts. The ECM will cost my $800 from Saturn.
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I have a 2000 Staturn LW2 auto, 6cyl. When I try to turn on the car, sometimes the engine does not turn, doesn't make a sound, nothing. When I move the steering wheel, it turns on fine, it has to be in a certain position. Does that mean, the ignition switch is faulty or is it the pin? Is there a test I can do?
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My 2004 Saturn Ion, 235,000 miles, 2.2 engine is idling erratic when I turn on AC. It sounds as though the compressor is turning on and off. The air is cold then blows warm then cold etc. Is it the compressor or could it be a relay or fuse. It also overheated last week but not sure if problems are connected. I am idling car right now with AC off to see if fan comes on.
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I drive a 2000 Saturn S-series (SW) that has a lot of miles on it, and has been giving me consistent trouble lately--replaced the catalytic converter, transmission work, belts, coolant issues, you name it. That said, up until recently I would have referred to it as an extremely reliable car. The piles of money I've now put into it make me less likely to call it this. So, my question is twofold: a specific question and a general is-this-the-end question.
As of last night, my car has been having trouble shutting completely off. I am able to turn the key and take it out of the ignition, and the car shuts off--mostly. Something is still on (a fan, part of the engine?) and I have to turn the car on and off many times until it shuts off completely. Last night I had to drive it around the block before it would shut off. I took it to the mechanic today for a separate issue--hemorrhaging coolant--and asked them to look at the shutting off issue.
Of course, when they looked at it, my car suddenly shut off fine. They said that it probably has to do with the ignition switch, and that I'll need to take it to the dealer because my key is so old they can't recreate it from my old beaten up key from 14 years ago. (I'm not exactly sure what they have to recreate, or how an ignition switch works.) Is it time to chuck this car? Or is an ignition switch not a big deal?
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The key will not turn to off, stuck in acc. I have no power to the windows, sunroof, seat and seat heaters, and no brake lights, and the mirrors have no power either. I took the car to the local GM dealer who told me the ignition was not in any recall and found that the Body Control Module was bad and needed replacement.
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