SC/SL/SW :: 99 Saturn SL1 Squeaking Belt Or Pulley Sound
Feb 3, 2013
It has developed a weird squeaky belt or pulley sound. It starts after few seconds of start up and goes away after driving few kms. It also goes away immediately for few kms. When I spray WD-40 on generator/alternator. Once in a while the sound decreases by itself and goes away only when I press the gas pedal and comes back during idling/braking. The belt is almost like a new. The car drives great without any issue.
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07 f250 I just replaced the power steering pump. I put the serpentine belt back on and when I started my truck I now have a squeaking noise. It's driving me nuts and the more I push the pedal it gets alil louder. Now before I did the ps pump I did hear a little noise like of bearings squeaking when I put my ear to grill.... I put the old ps pump pulley on the new pump but I don't think that is it because it is pressed on. Would it be a bad idler/tension pully? Is it just a coincidence after I do ps pump that it now decides to squeak?
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I purchased a new 2000 mazda b4000 2 weeks ago and the belt was squeaking and I knew I had to change the water pump so I replaced it and the squeaking didn't went away... I thought maybe my idler pulley bearing was worn out cause I could see it wobble back and fourth when the engine was running... Replaced it, still squeaking! Change my belt still squeaking! look further turns out my power steering pulley wobbles slightly. I'm thinking about trying a gator back belt and see if the squeaking goes away. Could it be dangerous to run the truck as it with a slight misalignment in the power steering pulley? or it'll be a must replacement asap?
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I just started hearing this clicking/ticking sound about two days ago. It is definitely coming from the pulley/belt side of the motor and is more pronounced from under the car. I've tried to see what happens when I turn the A/C on and it still continues like normal. At idle its spaced 3 seconds apart with 3 consecutive clicks/ticks.
As I raise the RPM its spaced closer but still has 3 pronounced clicks that I can hear until the exhaust drowns it out. Tension on the belt seems to be good and its in good condition. The car runs better than it did a year ago with MPG actually going up a few about a week ago (cleaned the MAF, new filter, new tires).
I did have a P0103 code 2 weeks ago due to an over oiled K&N filter but I've done the work listed above since then with great results. The car runs great right now but I'm a stickler for the little details, like obnoxious noises (especially ones that are potentially bad).
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I have 1997 F250 LD since i bough it has been doing this chirping sound coming from the serpentine belt and the pulley area but when the truck has been working for 15 - 20 min it goes away
This is apart from the from the problem before I think the fan clutch is broken because when I start the truck I can hear the fan going at the same speed of the engine is that normal ? even when the truck is cold
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I have a 1993 Saturn with very low mileage (roughly 36,000 original miles) that I inherited from my grandma about 5 years ago. Early in the summer (May/June), when I would turn the a/c on, I started hearing a low squeaking/squealing sound when I would come to a stop. When I would start moving, turn off the a/c, put the car in neutral/park, it would go away. Over the past few months, I have noticed the squeaking/squealing getting louder and more so at night when the lights are on and during the day when there is a lot of moisture in the air and it really squeals loud every so often when I start moving from a stop until I hit around 2000 rpm.
The car idles at around 500 rpm and that is when I notice the noise the most. I have checked the belt and it appears to be in good shape (no cracking or fraying, it appears to be dry) and the tension appears to be good and when I got the oil changed last month, the guys at the Valvoline Quick Lube said it looked good as well. With the noise coming more often at night when the lights are on (or during the day when it is raining and I have the lights on), I have thought about taking the alternator off and getting it checked at the local parts store to see if when it gets put under load, it squeals there and to see if it is functioning properly. Could it be the alternator or something else, like the belt?
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So this car has only 50k miles. It was really cold in the sierra (around 20F) and the car started making a squeaking sound. I assumed it was just belt warming up, but when I opened the hood later, I saw shredded plastic. No CEL's! Seems to run smooth.
Where this came from? Is it part of the serpentine belt system?
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Lately I've been getting this loud annoying squeaking sound from my engine bay at idle. It sounds like its coming from the belt. The car has 16k miles so i dont see why the belt would have a problem already.
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One of my belts squeaks. I've tightened one of them as far as it goes I think. The other one is the one with the alternator. Do I tighten the pulley bolt on the alternator to add tension to that one?
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2006 6.0l ... I've read all over for tips on routing this belt and everyone plays it off as being some simple '20-minute' task. I'm on my 4th hour on this now.
I can't figure out how to route the belt around the tensioner pulley, circled in the picture (from another thread). Everyone glosses over how to do this and I can't figure it out.
It seems like the only way to get it on is to bend the belt and slide it between the pulley and the block, but that I just can't reach the blasted thing.
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I'm trying to remove the AC belt off a '96 Geo Prizm. I've loosened the idler pulley adjusting bolt, per my Chilton's manual, but it doesn't loosen the belt. It's as if the pulley is stuck in the bracket. Even if I completely removed the adjusting bolt the pulley wouldn't budge. How can I unstick this thing without damaging the pulley?
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I have a 2008 F-150 with a 4.6. I have a sequel and I believe it is the belt tensioner pulley and / or the idler pulley above it. Looking for proper procedure to change one or both. It is pretty tight in there. How much stuff do I have to remove to get in there. Should I replace both pulleys at the same time.
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I have a 2009 Camry 5spd with 92K miles on it. Camry is completely stock and original with meticulous services to engine oil and drained the transmission fluid at 68K miles. I am hearing an engine hum every now and then (although I notice it more often now that I am searching for it) while I am idling. I don't believe it to be engine vibration, rather it is a hum, seems like a belt pulley bearing is going out, or even, and i hope its not, like my throw out bearing in the clutch is going bad.
Only reason I say that is because it makes the hum for a few seconds then goes away, then comes back for a bit. It makes the hum when i have the clutch engaged and when i have the clutch disengaged and a in neutral. I have opened the hood to try and search from where it is coming from but it is just too darn hard to figure out.
I am hoping it is nothing related to my transmission. I may pull the fill plug on it this weekend and try to stick my finger inside to see if I am low on fluids and it is making a hum (but I highly doubt it because when I filled it up after drain i filled it too the top). I haven't experienced any burning of oil and use 5W-20 (Castrol GTX since day 1). I may switch fluids on my next change and use maybe a different brand and viscosity (maybe use standard Quaker state at 5W-30).
Again it isn't an engine vibration, rather just a hum or almost like a stinking wobble and then goes away for a few seconds. I say wobble kind of like you would hear a drive shaft on a truck that wasn't balance properly and was spinning without being centred with counter weights.
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Ever hear of a crank pulley failure? Mine did and took out the serpentine belt. I have 63,000 miles on the 07 and it was a big shock to see the pulley in two parts.
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2002 Camry 4 cyl. Can the idler pulley alone be replaced on the serpentine belt tensioner? I noticed a very slight side to side play when I had the belt off. No noise from it. When I looked at rock auto, they sell the whole bracket with the pulley.
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My tensioner pulley is making noise.I replaced the rear idler pulley (can't get to the front one), but still have the noise. Mention a DIY for replacing the tensioner pulley bearing. A part number for the bearing?
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The nut that holds the pulley in place on the alternator has fallen off, causing the pulley to become loose and now the serpentine belt will not stay on. What is the size and thread type for the nut that I need to replace?
Alternator Pulley Nut for 2004 Camry 4cyl
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My air conditioner had a problem a few years ago. While idling in the driveway on a really hot day the clutch on the compressor froze and nearly burned the belt off of the pulleys before I killed the AC. I continued to drive the vehicle for several months but without using the AC.
Fast forward 5 years (almost) and I just finished installing a new engine and putting a shift kit in the transmission.
Remembering the original AC problem I know that I need to get this fixed. I noticed while checking all the engine functions that the compressor clutch is not stuck any more (maybe all the oil leaking onto it worked with this).
As it stands now, the AC seems to cycle normally but it doesn't get cold and probably needs a charge at a minimum. Is it possible that the compressor clutch will work fine or is it a disaster waiting to happen? What else should I check in the AC system?
I'm not against replacing the whole system or any single part of it. I am also not sure whether the AC uses R12 or R134. How can I tell?
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So from reading around a lot, it seems like the chirping is from the belt tensioner or idler pulley. That said, I've not been able to find anything definitive. I tried to do the water bottle squirt test (from Gates' youtube video) and either I did it wrong or the chirp did not go away implying the issue is not the belt. While I was looking in, I could see the tensioner shaking some.
If my tensioner should not be moving, do I just need the pulley or the pulley and the mount?
- Pulley [URL] ....
- Pulley and mount [URL] ....
Also, if the above items will fix the chirp, which brand would be best?
2007 RX 350, 113K.
Chirping gets worse as it heats up. Seems to happen independent of ambient temperature. Purchased a year ago so unsure of the history of part changes.
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In a few weeks I will be bringing my new to me Ranger back to the great state of Texas. The truck however, has a squeak when running, which I think has been concluded as the idler pulley for the timing belt. Well, I'm nowhere near the truck still and in order for it to get here it will need to be driven half a day to reach me, at which point I could do all the work it needs done.
My question is: Should I take the risk and have it driven here before the belt change (I did look at it while I was out there and it's already cracking pretty good), or should I go ahead and have someone get the belt done at a shop? It's less the belt that concerns me I think, and more the pulley, even though it's just started squeaking in the last 1000 mile.
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Been trying to isolate my noisy serpentine belt. Had the belt off and spun everything, only thing I found that made any noise was the alternator. It had a nice churp like a bearing was on its way out in it. So I replaced that figuring my squeak was going to go away. No such luck. Listening to it again while it was idling, I crawled underneath. Almost seems like the churping noise is coming from the Crank Pulley. Is there a bearing on this pulley that goes bad?
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