is it the clutch or the shifter or something else? I did have to replace the 2 shifter cables about 18 months ago as they broke, but lately, it is having a very hard time going into gear, especially 1st gear when stopped. It's so bad my wife won't drive it any more. We love our 35mpg Saturn and want to keep it running well.
View 7 RepliesI'm having a little issue with shifting into first. Once in a while it simply will not go in, like you're pushing the shifter against a brick wall. If I turn off the truck and turn it back on, it works absolutely fine. I can shift into 2nd-5th no problem at all times. Is it just the shift linkage, or...? I'm not really sure where to start.
View 7 RepliesMy 1985 BMW 635, standard transmission suddenly developed shifting problem. It will not shift into 1st, 3rd or 5th gear. It will shift into reverse,2nd and 4th gear. The car is not driven on any frequent schedule, infrequently. I can't remember the last time the transmission oil was changed.There has not been any mechanical distress,grinding of gears,etc. you just cant engage those gears. They all are moving the shifter from neutral to a up position. Is it possible that sludge could be blocking the movement of the synchronize r?
View 2 RepliesI just got a 2000 accent. The problems is that sometimes when I shift into 2nd and 3rd is notches sometimes. But it does not do it when i shift down. Also if I shift fast it will occur less often as when I shift low. When my friend drove the car it didnt do it for him. So maybe it is how i drive or something. I make sure the clutch is down all the way.
View 7 RepliesI have been having an issue with my 4-5 gear shift under hard acceleration and know that a rebuild is due soon but I was wondering if any high performance kit available with all the clutches and friction discs needed to rebuild.
View 6 RepliesLong time listener first time poster. My wife has a 2009 Vw jetta 2.5 with a manual transmission that is very hard to shift. It has 80,000 on it and has had the clutch replaced once. She told me that she never had any problems shifting until she let it sit for two weeks while she went to cape cod. I have driven it myself and can confirm that there is an issue. Sometimes it just will not go into gear. No grinding noise at all and very very stiff when moving the stick shift laterally from first to fifth. Not actually shifting from 1-5 just moving the stick across the range it feels like cement. I have already changed the transmission fluid and used the Vw oem oil. I also removed the shift boot and lubed all the moving parts with a high quality grease. Tomorrow I am going to bleed the clutch slave and have a good look at the shift linkage. Is their something I am missing?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2010 accent blue model with stick shift. been fine for 50k miles. Lately i have noticed an issue where i am in first gear and then when i push clutch in to go into second, the lever won't budge. it does eventually go in but it just isn't like it used to be. it happens say about 25% of the time. Since at higher rpms it won't do it but normal rpms it will.
Also, i just had a new short block installed, perhaps something is binding? If I sit in the car, stopped, i can shift into and out of all the gears perfectly. Maybe my 1st gear synchros are going?
I have a 2004 manual transmission Santa Fe. I've maintained it very well since new.
About 6 months ago I noticed it was getting difficult to manually shift gears. It wasn't grinding or anything, just "hard" to get it to go into the various gears while driving. Before, I could shift into any gear with just 2 fingers on the gearshift and it was smooth as silk.
I went in and had the gear oil changed. This was something I didn't even know needed to be changed and the guy said most people never do. They showed me the oil they took out and it looked more like black water than oil and smelled kinda funky. They changed the gear oil out, but still no difference, and in fact it's getting worse.
The best way to describe it is the only way I can really shift gears now is to find that "sweet spot speed" where the gears will change on their own (so to speak). I find it particularly difficult going from 1st to 2nd, such as when starting from a stop light. People almost rear-end me now as it takes me longer to get it into 2nd gear.
Once in gear it runs perfectly, no problems. The clutch seems to be working normally, except perhaps while stopped in 1st gear, it sometime seems to jerk a bit, and I find this most noticeable if I'm stuck in very slow moving heavy traffic with the constant stopping and then moving forward slightly and such.
It is almost impossible to "gear down" into a lower gear unless I'm at the speed where it would normally go into that lower gear on it's own. The best way to describe it is how it is possible to drive a standard transmission car WITHOUT a clutch if you shift at just the right time/speed. But I DO use my clutch, but if I'm not close to "that speed" it's really, really difficult to force it into another gear, and the few times I do try and force it, I'll often get a bit of grinding.
I went on vacation for a week and left my car at my parents house. I came back and now it has become extremely difficult to shift between gears. It's nearly impossible to get the car into reverse, extremely difficult to get it into first, makes a thud when pulling it out of first, is semi difficult to get into 2nd, but only a mild nuisance to get into 3rd through 6th.
For more information, the car is a 2012 Volkswagen GLI with just shy of 40,000 miles. The car ran just fine before I went on vacation and the car was not moved while I was on vacation. I did notice that a little ticking kind of sound when I had the car in neutral with no clutch. So the throw out bearing was starting to wear, but it was a very slight. But I haven't had any other problems.
I'm trying to diagnose a problem with my dad's 93 F250 7.3 diesel 4x4 with a ZF S5-42 5 speed manual transmission. It seems to not want to shift back into gear once the truck has warmed up, with 1st, 2nd and reverse being the toughest gears to get into. We've done a transmission fluid change with the required dextron/mercon substitute but the problem existed before the change and the change didn't seem to solve the problem any.
This problem didn't exist until I did a couple hundred miles of towing with it, some of which was done in 5th gear (overdrive?), so I'm hoping the 5th gear towing didn't ruin the transmission. From a cold start the transmission has no trouble shifting into any gear as well as with the engine off when either warm or cold, but with the engine idling and the truck at operating temperature it can be difficult to impossible to shift into gear, especially reverse.
I think heat has something to do with the problem because the shifts were worse a when its driven longer and during the tow/driving that was done in the last part of summer. It sat most of the time since then but we took it out today to test some things. Hot or cold the external hydraulic slave had roughly the same range of movement, but the drive line seems to jerk more noticeably like power is applied to it during a shift when its warm.
This all makes me think, even though the clutch hydraulic system is working like I think it should, that the clutch is not fully disengaging when at temp. I'm not a transmission guy so before I start throwing parts/labor at a problem.
We are having issues shifting the car it is hard to shift into gears. I have replaced the transmission and the clutch, trans mount is still good all mounts for that matter are still in great condition its getting tiring to have to slam the car into gear all the time.
View 1 RepliesMy 2005 Ford Taurus (3.0 liter engine, auto trans, 117K miles) recently began shifting hard (dropping suddenly, not smoothly) only on the 2-3 shift at 20 MPH. The check engine light is not on, and the car functions perfectly otherwise. A mechanic removed the trans pan, replaced the filter and fluid, and added Lucas additive. The interior of the trans was clean, and did not have a burned smell. The 2-3 shift did not improve.Could it be a valve body or a solenoid? Is it repairable? I drive it gently, and the problem hasn't gotten worse (2 months). What's up with my trans?
View 1 RepliesMy tranny is slipping all over the place . I recently less than 1500 miles ago changed tranny fulid, tree branch and TP filter, ford filters, and 8 to 9 quarts of mercon SP. My truck is shifting like a bucking bronco. Came up with PO671. So should I replace just the 1 solenoid. Or all the valve body? I plan to run a gauge in cab to see shift pressures for testing purposes to aid in troubleshooting for current issue... reason for fluid change is history unkown.
2004 6.0 f250 4x4 tourque shift OdO is 163,800...
I have 1995 Toyota Avalon w/173K miles. It’s in good shape mechanically and cosmetically. My 16 yr old daughter is the primary driver. I have extensive service records and have replaced the springs/struts, o2 sensors, and a few other bits. My question is related to hard shifts and a check engine light. During the summer the trans shifts normally. In the fall & winter, when temps dip below 50 degrees, the trans shifts harshly and the check engine light blinks indicating a trans solenoid is defective. The trans fluid has been flushed twice, most recently in Oct 2008 at the Toyota dealership. My theory is the techs filled the trans with a heavier weight fluid than is necessary and that is triggering the codes.
View 1 RepliesWhy my vue manual tranny only goes in first third and fifth . Can't get it in second fourth or reverse . Bought it like that .
View 1 Replies97 Saturn SL with a 5 speed manual transmission only has 1st and reverse. Can usually not even put the clutch in and it runs in 1st gear without stalling like a 1 gear automatic transmission. Weird
The Shifter moves normally but there is no 2 thru 5. Can put it in reverse. Drove it 3 miles to my home.
Anyway this is clutch related or some relatively cheap adjustment? The car is not worth the price of a new Xmission. Other alternative like replacing with an automatic xmission?
I have a 2005 Camry LE, 4 cyl with manual trans. I was driving down the road yesterday and while I was driving the key came out of the ignition! My vehicle did not stall and I could easily put the key back in with no issues. vehicle still starts, runs, ign cylinder turns just fine, everything with no problems. key just freely comes out of the ignition with the engine running. I am going to assume this is not normal for Toyota. I know it isn't for GM vehicles.
View 2 RepliesIve been chasing a leak at the top of the trans on my 2007 Accent 2 door Hatchback. I cleaned up the area and it appears that the leak is from a seal 43126 in attached drawing. My question is can I remove the component 43801 without being in the trans, to replace this seal? Is there anything else i should inspect in there bushings, bearings etc.
View 4 RepliesSo ive been having issues with my trans 6 speed manual making noise and took it to the dealer. They more or less told me the trans is done, something with the linkage, need a new trans and clutch. They also told me my warranty was void because there was indication of a cold air intake before i bought the car and have reason to believe it's due to abuse. I've only driven this car 3,000 miles and have taken care not to beat or sport shift the car to avoid this very problem. I can't argue the fact that the previous owner could have very well driven the car hard and the problem might have been a ticking time bomb. I guess my best bet is to find a used trans and install myself but really dont know where to start.
View 24 RepliesI bought a 1997Nissan Maxima from my cousin and as he tried teaching me how to drive stick I stalled and the car did not want to start back up we were able to pop start it it to get back to my house. I am unsure whether it is the ignition switch or the relay because the car will start sometimes after I keep trying to start the engine for a while...
View 18 RepliesI've got a 2006 2.4L manual trans - runs great, except every once in a while, at low r.p.m., it surges or bucks. Sometimes, I press the gas and not much happens for a second then it takes off.
Other - much more rare - times it bucks like a jackrabbit a few times until I let off the gas, start over, and it accelerates fine. And most randomly of all, the idle seems erratic - not rough or jumping all over the place, but not always at the exact same r.p.m. Or if I come to a stop, the idle will drop really low for a second, then "wake back up" and idle normally.
But then most often of all, it drives normally. Anyway, step one was to run a tank of premium gas with a good injector cleaner. Which I'm doing now. Wondering if it's spark plug wires?
No "check engine light" at any point during this. All maintenance up to date; recent spark plugs; 187,000 km.