My 97 Saturn SC1 dies as I slow to stop. It will restart but the RPM goes very high for a little while before it drops back down to normal. What do I need to do to fix it?
View 3 RepliesMy family has had this car for a long time. It worked fine for years but in the past year it has had some problems when starting. Sometimes the car starts fine, sometimes it won't start until you re-try a few times, sometimes it won't start and you can try over and over and it never does. When it doesn't start, it doesn't do anything at all, no sound or anything. The battery is not dead, the car has more than half a tank of gas. Recently, the car started fine, but after driving it for a while, we stopped at a stop light.
When we tried to accelerate after the stop, the car died, during the acceleration and a left turn. We got the car going again after trying a few times, but later that same trip, the car died again when accelerating, but this time it was from a slow speed, not a stop and it was while we were driving straight. The car is well taken care of (oil changes, check the oil, do not let it get to under a quarter of a tank, change transmission filter & oil, air filter, brakes, etc.) The timing chain is permanent, stainless steel. We do not drive very much but we are afraid to now that we don't know if it will die while we are driving.
My wife's car is a 2006 2.0T Passat. It has been very slow to blow cool air on starting. Once you are moving at highway speeds it cools fine, but then blows hot air when you slow or come to a stop.
I have taken the car to a mechanic who purged and refilled the coolant. This did not fix the problem. Upon checking with the mechanic, we noticed that both the primary and aux. cooling fans start and stop at the same time, and only would come on when I would rev the engine up some (around 2000 rpm).
I have talked with this mechanic and one more. Both are certified master mechanics, but neither specializes in VW. They believe it may be the high pressure side switch or the compressor itself.
I got a 2002 sierra 1500 with a 5.3l. I just replaced both catalytic converters and y pipe. After I did this, I am having a few problems. First, when slow down to park or at a stop sign the idle drops way down and it dies. I cleaned the throttle body, maf sensor, and ran a can of seafoam and a can of b12 chemtool through it. It did this for a couple of days and now when the idle slows down the "check oil pressure" light comes on before it dies. Then yesterday the "check oil level" light started coming on. Is this all related, would the low idle cause low oil pressure, where to start?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 Hyundai Accent with 210,000 miles. I had had very few problems with the car in the past 11 years - 2 sensor problems, transmission related at 100K and oxygen sensor at 160K. I have done oil changes every 3000-4000 miles, transmission flushes every 30K, and timing belt replacements every 60K. However, within the last month, the car sometimes dies when I fast or slow brake to a stop. Due to the high mileage, I had the fuel pump and fuel filter replaced and had the timing/tuneup checked. There is no check computer light lit. What else can I check?
View 4 RepliesI have a 99 7.3 F250. It dies when I slow down for a turn or for a stop sign. At highway speed, it 'surges' sometimes, and makes he whole truck jump. Also, there is a small leak in the tube connected to the turbo. Has 250k miles ......
View 1 RepliesI recently bought an'08 Base model. It is making a creaking noise in the front end on the left side either behind the wheel or under the motor. It only does it when taking off from a stop and/or turning mainly to the right during slow speed, seems to be when the body weight is shifting. To me it sounds as though something needs greased or maybe a strut.
View 2 RepliesLooking at a truck at a dealership. 04 F150 Lariat 5.4 3v? 2wd SuperCrew 148k miles. Bone stock besides the bedliner.
Truck is pretty nice besides these 4 things. Kind of a shudder when taking off from a stop or a very slow speed. Adjustable pedals don't work.
New brakes, but possibly the rears are dragging a bit. Was able to turn them in neutral and the rear on jacks. Extra, guessing because of the newer looking battery, some systems lack data from the OBD2
I'm mainly concerned about the shudder from a complete stop/1-2mph. At the dealer, to leave the lot, the driveway was elevated. I think it showed very well climbing that hill. As it was noticed and played with the gas a bit. Otherwise, you stomp the gas, it may shudder for a second or two, (3-5 times?) once it hits about 3000 rpm in 1st, its fine. Only ever seemed to do it in 1st and never any other gear, never on any gear changes.
We lifted the rear end up on a jack and fiddled around. Put it in neutral and spun the wheels, tried to mess with the drive shaft... According to dad, who was looking at it with me said it was fine and that it's normal to have a little bit of slop, but I didn't notice any real slop myself, tried to push on the driveshaft on the transmission side and I think it may have moved a bit but it didn't feel loose or clang or anything. Although I didn't get to push on it too hard because he was rotating the driveshaft at the time.
I assume new fluids in engine and trans. My dad said something about old oil marks on the transmission pan area or something. Both to the fill line.
One thing that I wonder about is how long this truck has been sitting. I wonder about the differential clutches. I'm not that sure what it really has for the rear end. But google had mention of clutch packs in the rear. I wonder if because it's been sitting that the oil has settled out of the clutches or something. There was a mess of silicon on the rear diff cap area. Couldn't tell if it was new or not. I think we put 10-20 miles on it at least and only looked under it for maybe a half hour... Still did the clunk/shudder at a start from a stop, when we returned it.
So, what could be causing this clunk/chatter when talking off from a stop/1-2mph roll?
Axle wrap?
Differential Clutches?
Differential?
Driveshaft?
Transmission?
The lights were left on. After getting a boost, went home. Later came out to drive, but car now cranks up and dies. Friend suggested to do 2-foot driving with one foot on gas and other foot on brake. After, the car ran for short distance and began the same thing.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2002 Saturn SC2, it starts fine and runs fine for about 10 minutes. At that time it shuts off and no fire is going to the plugs. I have replaced the ignition control module and it made no difference. Once the engine shut off, I immediately replaced the icm with a new one and still no fire to the plugs. Once the car sits for a while, it will restart and continue with its vicious cycle.
View 1 RepliesWhile driving about 40mph yesterday, the car suddenly began to slow down and pressing on the gas did nothing. I was able to coast to a parking lot and stop. The car would not start again. I towed to local shop. Was told I had burned out the starter. They placed the starter with a rebuilt starter that I purchased from a large and reputable salvage company in town who I have dealt with for many years. The repair shop said the engine was locked up and would not turn. They said it made a slight turn at first and then stopped. They tried turning with a wrench but no avail. Their assessment is the motor needs replacing.
View 5 Replies I have a 2003 Saturn L200. It has about 140k miles. I've taken care of it and it runs well. I had a slow leak near the front that I thought was oil and took it to my mechanic. Turns out to be power steering fluid. He said the leak is form the rack and pinion unit and it can't be fixed, it would need to be replaced.
Since the leak is very slow he suggested I just keep an eye on it, occasionally top off the power steering fluid and not bother to fix it unless it gets worse. Does that seem reasonable to you? Am I making things worse by waiting or causing myself any potential safety problems?
I just replaced the head on a 1997 Saturn SL2 due to it running rough and low compression on one of the cylinders. It idles very smooth now and has at least 160 PSI on all 4 pistons. The problem is that it surges as you are accelerating slowly, gets poor gas mileage and it seems that the oil level is raising on the dip stick. I'm guessing that gas is some how getting into the oil.
I checked the spark plugs for carbon build-up which would indicate a rich gas mixture but they're clean (lite tan color). I also replace some of the vacuum lines where I found cracks, but I may have missed a few. Overall the car seems to run pretty good. The problem is that this is my daughter's car who lives 10 hours drive away and I don't want to stick her with any problems. I don't want to take it to a dealership where they'll charge me a lot of money but my mechanic that I normally deal with doesn't know what to do with it since there aren't any fault codes on the computer.
I have a 2001 saturn l200 2.2 about 150000 miles. Last night I came to a stop at stop light, then my car tried to die. So then I came to stop again, then it tried to die again. It drives fine, but it shifts hard sometimes, and sometimes it doesn't shift hard...
View 2 Replies2006 Saturn Ion2, 2.2L, The car seems to run fine with no a/c, strong acceleration, 900RPM idle. When the a/c is turned on at idle, the revs drop to 400RPM and the engine shudders. At speed with the a/c on, the car shuts itself off and throws code U0100(lost communication with engine control module), emissions light, and flashes "PWR STR" and "COOLANT" on the dash.
My theory is: the a/c over stresses the motor, dropping the engine revs, causing the voltage to drop below 10v. The ECU then panics and shuts off the motor. Is this possible? I would like some reassurance before I start swapping out parts in the driveway.
I have a beautiful 1987 560SL. My husband and I bought it about 17 years ago and lovingly refer to her as our mid-life crisis car. Truth be told, we're a bit past "mid" life now and have decided to sell it and let someone else enjoy her. Last summer she started to have an annoying issue and we "thought" it was fixed, but right after I started advertising, she started acting up again.The engine simply dies while driving. It always seems to happen when I've only driven about 5 miles and going rather slow - 20 to 30 mph. She'll start back up after a try or 2 and be fine. We took her to a local shop and the mechanic said one fuel pump was shot and the other was not working properly so we replaced both and all seemed fine the rest of the summer. We garage her for the winter as we live in the Rockies and she's not the most practical car to be driving in the snow and ice. This summer she started right up and was doing well until a few weeks ago - same problem.
View 7 RepliesWhen our Saturn sl2 1999 goes up hill we lose speed from 60 or so down to about 45 with foot to the floor it doesn't regain speed until the hill flattens out..
View 6 Replies1998 saturn SL2 idle speed changes low, high, back to low. Some times the car dies, can happen any time a few times in traffic. Once the engines dies the idle stays low for 5 minutes, then the problem goes away for a while (a week). You never know when it will happen.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 Saturn sl2 (automatic 85,000 miles) and recently, I can feel the momentum of the car stop for a split second. The hesitation isn't occurring when the transmission is shifting between gears but, when I'm just at a normal speed or accelerating. The fluid is new and at the right level and there's no change in the RPMs (it doesn't rev up or drop like I would expect) and no weird noises.
This is my fourth Saturn SL and I love em but, I have a feeling that this car has had a more interesting life that the carfax printout indicated. Is carfax reliable?
Is there some common issue with this? Purchased the vehicle new in 2008, and in 2011 we have had to have the car in for this issue at least once a year. They replace one, then the other, then back to the first one, and now it appears the second is not working again. Each winter we run into this. The dealer will only warranty for a year, so I am paying each time.
View 1 Replies1998 Saturn SL2, after I replaced the fuel pump, the pump-in gas hose started leaking. I have replaced this hose 3 times and it still leaks, especially when you stop and keep the car running. After about 10 minutes, the fuel starts shooting out just below the fuel intake hole. What is wrong? What should I do to correct this?
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