SC/SL/SW :: 2002 - All Electrical Shut Down When Stopped At Red Light
Feb 22, 2013
As I was driving today, I flipped the fan on in my Saturn to clear the windshield. Shortly after I did that, my radio shut down, and wipers slowed down. Car still ran. After stopping for awhile, I began to head home, stopped at a red light, and all electrical shut down as soon as I turned on my turn signal. Wipers, lights, etc. Car still ran, so I went to the nearest parking lot. Engine started running rough when I opened the door, then it quit & would not re-start. We just replaced the battery (original) in December & I am thinking this might be the alternator? My car has never given me one bit of trouble (except for the dead battery) until now.
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My Viper 2 way alarm, instead of the brain being wired to each of the 4 doors individually. The installer ran 1 wire to the dome light. Seems to work fine as far as arming/disarming/locking/unlocking, but since the dome light stays on for 10 seconds or whatever after the door is shut, when i arm it.
The 2 way remote says "door open" because the light is still on so it thinks a door is open. this eventually times out and all the sensors arm, but there's a long delay. it arms fine and no alerts pop up if i lock the doors first from the outside keypad on the door, making the lights go off, then hit arm on the viper, and everything is good to go.
Can I change it so no matter what, as SOON as i shut the door, the light goes off? I want there to be NO delay, if possible. If not, I may need to just have the installer run a wire to each door and take the single run to the dome light off, as it is sorta annoying to me.
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Was in town stopped at a traffic light when my 2003 Santa Fe just shut off. No warning, started right back up again, no CEL, no DTCs. Scary. I'm happy it happened with me driving the car instead of my daughter driving. Also happy it didn't happen on the highway.
I've had hard starting issues for a while now. Replaced crank sensor, it's fine for a few starts, then goes back to hard starting, but I hadn't had a problem in a few weeks.
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As I was driving home last night, and my 2010 Ford Fusion shut down. I was stopped at a stop light, and when the light changed I accelerated but nothing happened. On my dash board the oil light and battery light were on. I turned the car officially off, and it restarted. This has never happened before. I have about 38,000 miles plus. I am in sales and drive the car a lot during the week. What does this mean, and should I be concerned?
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I have a 2011 Ford Fiesta with a little over 90k
Last week I had just gotten gas, i was about to turn out of the gas station when I stepped on the gas the car moved forward slightly before the oil light popped on and the engine seemingly shut off. I put the car in park, turn the engine off and started it up. It turned on just fine and drove like normal as I headed home, first thing the next morning I went to get my oil changed as I was overdue. I was definitely low and my oil(5w30) was changed.
The problem did not repeat itself until 4 days later while out running errands. It happened again twice today...once while again turning out of a parking lot and also while about to turn at a light.
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I'm having a problem with my interior dome light and my door chime bell not working in my '01 F-250. I found that the bulb was blown,so I replaced it thinking it might fix the door chime bell also, thinking they were wired together from the factory.
The new bulb didn't fix the problem. I recall that when I noticed the door bell didn't ding-ding anymore was about the time(when it got dark), that I noticed the dome light was out also.
What I may check? The fuses all work, the interior dome relay switch works and I see nothing else in the owners manual to look for as far as dome lighting and door bell chime.
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I have an 02 Ranger 4.0 4WD and I have been doing a lot of research to try and figure out why the battery light comes on and off. I was driving the other day down the highway and the battery light came on and voltage gauge dropped. Drive a little further and it goes off, go down hill light comes on, up hill it turns off. (The up and down hill part was probably just a coincidence!) ...
Next day I pulled the alternator and had it tested at O'Reillys and it passed no issues. Yesterday I was driving again the light comes on my way home from the store and stays on for about 3 miles til I got home. Turned my truck off, restarted it later, no light. Today I drove around for a while and about 45 minutes into my driving around the light comes back on and voltage gauge drops and after about a mile it turned off. I stopped by O'Reillys again to have them test the complete charging system and everything passed. On the way home, light comes on again!
So, question is, the battery light was not on when they tested, will that make a difference in the outcome of the tests? I'm guessing not??? Belt looks good, no bad connections that I have found, battery was good...what am I missing? Battery light is still on and voltage low when I start truck after 1.5 hours of being home. Also, I get no magnetism from the alternator when the battery light is on.
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This is my brother's 02 SE. 140k miles. 4cyl. He claims that the car is beginning to idle rough when he is stopped at a stop light and the AC is on. If i replace the spark plugs should that do it? I'm pretty sure it doesn't have spark plug wires cus that's what my dealer parts dept said. Motor mounts were replaced around 70k if that matters. The vibration is directly related to the AC being on.
I am also going to replace the serp. belt because there's a belt squeak when the motor is cold.
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Shakes when in drive but stopped at a red light but if I put it in neutral, it stops shaking. 2002 Ford Escort
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I just installed a replacement Hazard Switch because the directional "blinker" light stopped working (after only working sporadically for a while). This particular switch is probably made in China. Hazards now working normally (with a blink rate of a little better than 1 Hz .. just like it used to work). Directional "blinker" lights - however - are also working, but at a very fast rate: probably 3+Hz. Why this might be? I'm pretty sure the directionals and the Hazards blinked at the same rate with the original switch. Maybe a side-effect of a cheap Chinese switch? I did check both tail lights and they're working for both Directionals and Hazards, but can't get over the difference in flash rate between the two. Doesn't give me a good feeling that this switch will last.
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My wife drives a 2002 civic (mostly around town). when the car is at running temp.with the heater on and she gets top a stop sign or red traffic light, the heater starts to blow out cold/colder air. We took the car to a dealer and asked them to flush/fill the radiator and fix the problem. Well they flushed/filled the radiator and said "Yup, it still does it. Would you like us to diagnose the problem more for a minimum of 1 hour labor cost?" What could be the problem with the reduction in heat?
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What does this message mean? ELECTRICAL CONSUMERS ARE BEING SHUT DOWN....
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I currently have a 06 camry se v6 3.3 3mz-fe with an electrical issue. Here is the list of issues
1. whenever I draw power to do anything after the car is started some things restart it self or shut off then slowly come back on. For EX if I am driving and apply the brakes the radio shuts off and/or the gauges reset (like I am turning off the car and re inserting the key).
2. if I roll all the windows up at the same time same thing as above.
3. if the radio is too loud same thing
4. everything inside the vehicle is dimmer then before.
while this is happening the engine is still running and never shuts off only electrical stuff shuts on and off.
this is what is electrical aftermarket on the car that I have changed
pioneer AVH-4000
JL 150/4 500/1
JL componets front 6x9 rear vr 12"w6v2
LED mood lights interior at feet front and rear
HID's low and high
1.5 farad cap
optima red top with dual post (side mounts used for factory connections top for system 0ga connections)
I have also done the following
disconnected all of the above (so no lights, radio, interior lights)
replaced the alternator (twice, the first was a DOA from autozone and now I fear that the second one is going bad because its not charging @14.??v anymore im lucky if it charges at 13.6)
checked all my grounds under the hood and trunk
checked all fuses and relays that I can find
charged the battery even when it tested good but was low at 12.1v
checked all of the wire harnesses under the hood for shorts or exposed wires
I have done almost everything but strip the entire car down to shell and inspect the whole harness and behind the dash, which I don't have the time to do. I have been trying to solve this issue for a month now and its not getting better its getting worst so I make the last step and take it down to the dealer.
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I have a 02 ex 118,000 on it, not a every day driver, mostly weekend and camper towing. The truck was running great, stopped at a light and the engine started hesitating, the od light was flashing, and then it died.. started right back up no od light, but was still hesitating/missing took it to a local shop, they hooked up a scanner and said that several coils were misfiring. My question, replace all coils? go with oem coils, or aftermakert?
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Recently, the cars electrical system shut down. The central locking system, the windows, seat adjustments, interior lights and the radio quit operating. The A/C, outside mirrors, driving lights & ignition remained operative.
Removing the electrical modules in the engine compartment & re-seating them reset the system. Then the same issue recurred. Re-seating the modules did not resolve this the second time. Only when the modules under the rear seat were removed and re-installed did the systems start again. Which module is defective?
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So the other day i was driving down the road, pulled into the gas station and the car shut off and the dash began flickering rapidly.
I popped the hood and the thing that controls the air fuel mixture- when you step on the peddle it moves(sorry cant think right now lol) well it is moving slightly back and forth rapidly also.
I popped the panel under the steering wheel off because i heard a flickering noise coming from it when the key was turned and it was coming from the fuel pump relay.
My question is- is the fuel pump relay something that would just fail and cause the car to shut off. or is it making the clicking noise an indicator that there is a problem somewhere. I looked up the part and it is only 40 bucks, but I am low on money and cant afford to be fishing around ordering parts trying to diagnose the problem.
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Two weeks ago, my husband and I drove about 90 minutes to a nearby mountain for some snowshoeing. Everything with the car was fine, until we stopped (for about 5 minutes), after which the car BARELY started. When it was time to go home, the same thing happen, and the battery light was on (not the hybrid battery, but just the regular battery). Since the car was running, mostly, and it was Saturday afternoon, we decided to try to make it home. Since the battery wasn't charging, one by one, all the electrical systems shut down, starting with the wipers and ending with the fuel pump. We drifted to a stop on the side of the road.
AAA came and jumped us, which not only got us going but seemed to have solved the problem. The battery tested fine, and Honda ran tests on the car for 3 hours and couldn't find anything wrong. However, we're clearly nervous about taking the car out of town. There was a similar incident a couple months ago, but not nearly as severe - the batter started charging again on it's own after just a couple minutes.
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I bought a 84 ranger 2.0 that ran when parked sat for six months. Cranks all day long but only sparks when you shut the key off. Replaced the ignition switch (by key) ( someone told me there is another ignition switch under the dash?? is this true?) Tested the icm and it passed all wires seem to be fine. I am just wondering if something in the dizzy could cause this or possibly the starter solenoid?
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98 Ford Escort (150k miles) died suddenly when I was going in reverse (parking) after a 100minute trip between 7 and 9 am. The entire electrical shut down after going about 30 ft in reverse.I checked all the fuses and they look OK. The alternator has about 2 years on it. The battery is used up but still works in warm climates.
Now, when i turn the ignition, no diagnostic lights turn on inside. I can only get it to do a warning audio beep on the first section turn of the ignition (warning that door is open). Electrical door locking makes a trying sound but no action. The headlights turn on when i flash the high beams.
This is a very tough problem because it's electrical. This car has had no mechanical issues and I take care of it, even driving no more than 65mph and avoiding day driving (due to heat). What could it possibly be? I have never even imagined a problem like this.
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I have a 06 f350. Out of the blue my wipers will not shut off without pulling the 30 amp fuse in engine compartment . Even with ignition off.
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I have a 1983 Dodge W150 that has a problem. It stops running with the electrical system completely shut down. If the battery is taken out of the system, and then reconnected, it starts and runs fine. Some history: a trailer brake control was installed a few years ago. Where the wire ran from the battery through the firewall, the insulation chafed and eventually shorted out. The fuseable links were burned out. I disconnected the brake control from the battery and replaced the fuseable links with a fuse block. The truck ran fine for 18 months. It has stopped twice in the last couple of days. Apparently something like a circuit breaker is tripping and then resetting when the battery is disconnected and then reconnected. My questions are
1) what is the breaker likely to be intended to protect,
2) where would the breaker be found, and
3) what is the likely cause of the breaker tripping (a short, but in what system)?
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