SC/SL/SW :: 2000 - Oil Light Came On / Car Starts And Go Back Into Park
Dec 27, 2012
I seem to be having 2 possible issues with it. One is that I put 4 qts of oil in the last oil change 3k miles ago and I took it in because the oil light came on and they said they had to put about 3 qts in....they checked and found no leaks and claim it goes out the tailpipe.
Also when starting the car for the first time and going into drive it wont go but a few miles an hour, go back into park, or shutting off and re starting usually fixes issues, I took it in and they said its either the valve body and if that doesn't work I need a new tranny.
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My 2000 4 dr Accent got flooded last night in a rainstorm. The water came up over the shifter in the floor, but not past the cigarette lighter. I probably should just write it off, but I'm pretty much way too broke to buy a new car and I need one for my job (substitute teaching).
Anyways - the car starts, but I can't shift out of park. I moved it using that little override switch. My brake lights, signal lights, etc. all work. I don't know what it could be, because the only other post I saw close to this said to check if the brake lights were not working and what to do if they weren't.
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I drive a 2002 Accent GL, automatic transmission with only 86,000 on it. For a while now I've been having transmission issues where the car will jerk violently when shifting or starts to rev in certain gear or in park. It also doesn't seem like it knows what gear it wants to be in half the time when I accelerate. Recently, while driving somewhere, it got real worse. It started revving and jumping and redlining and just going crazy while I was driving. I turned the car off and waited a while and turned it back down and it seemed to calm the issue a bit.
But I am afraid to drive right now. It's not the fluid. I've changed it twice in the past two years. Never works. I've seen issues like this on here before. If it IS the transmission needing to be replaced, why so soon with just 86,000 miles on it? And would having the transmission rebuilt be a better choice, cost-wise, but still just as effective?
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I've got an 04 Camry that will start with no problems but there is no power to the gauges, radio, heat/ac controls, windows and I have to use the override to shift from park. There's are remote start in the car and if you use that to start the car everything works perfectly fine, but as soon as you turn the key and step on the break to shut down the remote starter the electronics stop working.
I've replaced the 120 alt fuse before i figured out the remote start working.
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2001 Park Avenue has an issue that manifests itself every now and then. When I try to start engine nothing happens. Sometimes after turning key 3, 4 or 5 times it will start normally. I'm a little worried that one day it isn't going to start.... Using the original key, so I don't think that it's a problem with that. Have read that a faulty BCM can be responsible for a no-start condition, but that wouldn't be an intermittent occurrence would it?
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My car starts fine, when i want to change my gear to drive or reverse, its stuck on park, it wont move. My break lights do not work, i press the brakes and the back lights dont go on. The only way for me to unlock the gear is i have a spare and with my car running i put the spare key in a hole that is next to the gear and it unlocks. What it could be?
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I have been picking at an engine vibration for more than a year.
I have a '00 Explorer 302 V8 installed in an '82 Volvo. This engine/transmission has not been abused and only has 15k miles since it left the Ford factory. It was found intact on a pallet in dry storage. Everything was there as from Ford from the fan to the transmission output bushing. There is an engine vibration beginning about 2000 rpm in PARK so the problem is not in the transmission or drive shaft.
Perfectly smooth at idle and until you approach the start of the vibration.
Replaced the viscous clutch mechanical fan with duel electric so it isn't an out of balance fan.
Pulled the serpentine belt this afternoon and still have the vibration. Might have been a little less and I did find a idler pulley that had a little rattle but the big vibration is still there with only the harmonic balancer through torque converter rotating.
Replaced the pulley. Nothing else changed from when Ford built it.
No OBD codes.
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When I try to start my 96 Park Avenue sometimes it will not start until I back off the key just a little bit. I have replaced both ignition switches,starter and starter relay. along with new ignition key with the correct pellet resistance. The problem still persists. I really can not use a volt meter to check for voltage at starter terminals since the issue is very intermittent. I have checked and cleaned the battery terminals and the battery is ok, only one year old. I have head lights that do not dim when problem occurs. The only thing left I believe is the related wiring.
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Well I can and I wonder if this is normal as I can push my treg when it is off and in park [parking brake off of course] about 6 inches. It will rock back and forth, is this normal ?? I ask as I also have clunking in my drive train that the stealership says is normal. And I have 70k miles but this has been going on since 30k miles.
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I've had this ongoing issue where unless I first shift car from park to neutral and back again, the push button start will not work. After I do this car starts up fine every time.
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This just happened today. The car will no longer shift pack into park, all the way up the car is still in reverse. All other gears are working fine. What could be wrong with it?
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So my Gti 337 it starts but it turns right back off starts and turns right back off people are telling me it's the fuel pump checked it it's not that people are saying its my ECM.
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As the title says, the 2001GMC Sierra 2500 truck has been acting up lately. This usually happens when the truck is in motion, doing about 40 mph or so. It will quit, i have to pull over to the side of the road. And it usually starts right back up. This has been going on ever since I had the fuel pump replaced about 3 months ago or so. It was doing it once every two weeks, then once a week, then once every other day. Then it stranded me at the store before xmas. Right off I thought it is the fuel pump being intermittent, and just getting worse. I am not so sure though.
My mechanic will warranty it, but would rather not have to if its not the problem. He would rather have the truck die and stay dead, and test out things from there. There in lies the problem. The pump works, I can hear it power up, and if the truck stalls, it starts right back up. One more thing. If it does not start immediately, and I don't drain the battery, it will start in an hour or less. It will not just stop working for an extended period of time. There is no check engine light on btw. No codes come up while its on the computer. I don't drive it except in the driveway to plow, for fear of having to have it towed. It works though as i have a really long driveway.
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Early senility or perhaps just a busy mind has led me to turn off the ignition key before shifting from drive back to park. This is obviously not natural for the car but it did not seem to do any harm. I am wondering however if it can be damaged by this?
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I have a 93 grand cher with 194,000 miles on it. I have never had a problem until now. When driving the jeep sometimes it stalls and then starts back up again and you keep driving. Or othertimes it stalls when you are stopped and you need to start it back up. I had it at 2 dealerships but they can not find anything wrong because it is an intermittent problem and never happens when they have it.
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I have a 99 jeep grand jerokee... every once in a while it will just stall....it starts back up right away...no problem....battery is good... could it be the fuel filter? or the cranckshaft positioning sensor? or am i way off?
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I have a 99 Honda Civic. A few months ago, while driving in my neighborhood at about 25 mph, the car just stalled out and died. Within a minute, it started up again and was fine. My mechanic has checked it out a few times and found nothing. It's been totally fine and just did it again today. I leave tomorrow for a trip and am a little concerned about taking it on the road.
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My '94 Volvo Sedan just loses power, no dash lights come on, it just silently dies. It starts right back up. I took it to a mechanic who checked out the fuel pumps (he said there were 2) and they tested fine. He replaced the fuel filter. It is still dying. It seems to happen when it is hotter, mornings are fine. It hasn't happened in the last few days because the temp has been about 82 tops. I read earlier today on this site that it could be the ignition module. I have replaced the air filter, and am running fuel injector cleaner also.
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I have had my car for a few months now and over the last week or two I have noticed a sound coming from the rear. It happens when the car is shifted from park to drive, as well as the car lowering an inch. Is there something wrong with the car or is this normal?
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So was sitting at an idle in park and truck starts knocking, horrific sound. So shut checked oil, good, went to work came out 8 hours later, started up still knocked. Pulled into drive hit the pedal, knock went away, stopped at red light, knock came back...... Truck has been parked for 3 days, still knocks at an idle but soon as tap the pedal and give fuel it goes away... Tried unplugging injectors one at a time to eliminate, still had knock.
2003 auto, 4wd, studded,deleted, coolant filter, sct with innovative tunes 108,000 miles.
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I just recently put in an APR chip on my o4 gli from one of their dealers, a day or two later I noticed when I try to accelerate fast my check engine light comes on and the car starts pulling back. That was almost a week ago, today I went back to the same place to get a short shifter, I told them the problem while I was there and they said it was my coil packages. I replaced all 4 and im still having the same problem...
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