Started to hear noise from passenger side front wheel at higher speeds and will disappear when turning wheel to right.
From what I have been reading this sounds like it the wheel bearing.
Is this a easy repair or is more work than it sounds.
Autozone shows wheel bearing and hub as separate pieces.
when removing the parts from the car do they come out as assembly or in parts
So I just got my first alignment done on my gli since I lowered it. Before I got the alignment it had a shake in the steering wheel in acceleration mainly but more often at higher speeds. I was hoping that it would ride like butter but it's still shaking. The alignment was pretty bad before I took it to the shop today but what could the shake be coming from now? BTW I installed Ecs tuning rear wheel centering plates last night and I'm about to install their adjustable sway bar end links because I noticed last week that the sway bar had been rubbing the axle some.
View 14 RepliesWell I've been noticing that when I'm slowing down from higher speeds (50 mph or so) my steering wheel is shimmying a bit. Also I just started to hear my front passenger brake squeal a little. Well when I went to visually check the brakes, the pads seem VERY thick! Is it normal for them to start to go bad even with such thick pads? They are like 1cm thick. Also the rotors did seem used for sure, maybe 1mm worn down or so from the outer lip which is raised (I hope you understand what I mean), but they weren't scoured or anything. I suppose they could still be warped? I figured with such big brakes I wouldn't run into that problem. The car has 70k on it and the pads have been replaced once and rotors turned at 25k by the previous owner.
View 6 RepliesOk so we all know it's usually warped rotors or possibly a caliber problem. But let's say u have new of both. And still I'm getting a wobble, not only when I brake at higher speeds, but when I'm on certain roads. Only certain roads. Say about 20% of other roads while driving I get a slight wobble. Not too bad, but a very annoying wobble. I bought this CTS at 35k and now has 45k on it. And again I bought this car for my long commute and a smooth drive. Which I'm not getting. I can't take it anymore! I've got to figure this out. Getting a wobble in the steering while on super smooth roads. And I know it's the car because I have a Chevy Cavalier and a Dodge truck in the family that don't wobble on the same roads.
View 16 RepliesI've had my 07 HD F150 into the dealer a few times for this issue and they have not been able to repair it. When I use the brakes especially at higher speeds you can feel them turning like a warped rotor, sometimes it will make the steering wheel shake. It does it with both my summer tires (22") and my winter tires (17"). Even at slow speeds you can feel it.
The dealer keeps checking and says that the fronts are fine, last time they machined the rear rotors and said it was fixed. To me the fronts look pretty grooved but they keep saying they are fine. Which didn't make sense to me. The truck stops well and has good feel and power but I get this warped rotor feeling. Is the dealer missing something?
Having issues with passenger side door making noise on the highway at higher speeds or over bumps? I've recently begun to notice a slight rattle coming from the passenger side door when at highway speeds which becomes more noticeable and annoying when driving over a bump or less smooth roadways. I just reached 1500 miles. I have looked around on the forum and found some issues that various GTI owners experienced most dated from last year (talked with a MK6 GTI owner today at work who mentioned there was a recall not too long ago on this issue?), but I feel like that would have been since fixed with the R if the recall was last year.
View 9 RepliesWe have had the 2014 Camry SE for 3 months, 2000 miles, (we also have a 2005 Camry LE) and our first interstate trip is when we noticed it. When we get close to 70 mph and above we hear it. Sounds like some maybe flapping/rubbing? No really metal sounding, maybe plastic? I have checked under the car, do not see anything loose. We first thought it was coming from the storage area in between the seat, but we took everything out and the noise continued. Dead center under the car it sounds like. It does it every time, the same sound.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2007 Prius (now has 220K + miles) I bought used about 2 years ago with 150K miles. I finally got used to the car sounds so this is something new, or rather it's becoming louder and enough for me to question it. The car is still quiet at low speeds but this sounds like something related to how fast the car is rolling, not the engine acceleration. It doesn't sound like it's coming from the wheels. It's a low roar like sound, not high pitched and it sounds like it's coming from under the middle to front of the car as if related to perhaps the drive train. If I am up to 40-50 mph and just rolling (foot off the gas) down a long hill, the sound is there. It gets louder the faster I go. Could it be a transmission sound? I've always had manuals so this is my first automatic transmission car.
View 11 Replies2004 Corolla, 100,000 miles. It makes a strange sound when moving. It's noticeable at speeds higher than about 30 mph. It changes with road speed, not engine speed. It's similar to a failing wheel bearing sound. I've stuck my head out the window on each side of the car and can't localize the noise. I checked for deflection in all four wheels, and they're all tight.My next thought was a transmission problem. I checked the fluid and found it to be at the proper level. I doubt if it's ever been changed. I drove the car and released the accelerator, and I put the transmission in neutral. The noise did not change. I'm not sure what that tells us, but it's another data point.
Currently I have the front wheels off the ground. If I run the drive system to 30 to 40 mph that way, the sound is not there. I don't know that both wheels are going the same speed, so I'm not sure it's an accurate test.I've checked wheel bearings before on my Cavalier and easily found the defective one. I could tell which one it was by hearing the noise while in the driver's seat, and the check verified that. I think I know how to find a bad wheel bearing, but maybe there's another test I don't know about. I'll search online.Maybe it's a noisy tire. I can't locate the source by ear, and that's something I'm usually good at. I wonder if the transmission or differential might be making the noise but only when it's under an actual load.
Today was the first day I drove my Elantra on the interstate with the sunroof open. When I was cruising at 65-70mph, I kept hearing a noise that I thought was coming from another car. It sort of sounded like a popping or thumping noise. After a few minutes, I reached my hand up and noticed the sound was coming from the metal bar that rises up a little at the front of the opening when the glass slides back. The wind was vibrating it and making it flap in the wind.
View 2 RepliesI "think" I may have a bad wheel bearing. Problem is, which one is it? The code reader I own does not read for ABS. The noise appears around 30 mph. It increased slightly, at higher speeds. I tried jacking each side of the truck up and checking for play and noise. There is no play. The only thing I can say is that the passenger side wheel seems heavy to spin. But spins.
The drivers side wheel spins slightly more free, but has a faint sound like the brake shoe is touching the rotor. I drove it and tried turning left and right. The noise does not seem to get worse or better when turning either direction. I called my local Auto Zone, and they only told me to do what I have already done. So I am at a loss. What else can I do? My Blazer is a 2000, 4X4, Automatic.
I've been hearing a faint but rapid ticking noise when taking faster exit/clover-leaft style turns (usually ~40mph). I think it's the ABS or traction control on the verge of kicking in because if I push it a little harder I do get the flashing traction control light on the dash, but the ticking is happening before that light comes on.
I'll ask the dealer when I do the courtesy 30 day inspection... I'm at the end of the 2nd week of ownership with 200 miles right now, so I'm still getting used to the car. (2013 Passat TDI SEL). Loving the 40+ mpg on my rush hour commute!
I did a search and didn't find anything on the B7 forum that might explain this noise. I don't think it's a CV joint since the car is new, it happens when going around these style turns either way and only seems to happen at higher speeds. I suspect it's just that the traction control is sensitive (or maybe I haven't scrubbed the tires enough yet to get good contact).
So I just got a bunch of work done on my car: the timing belt, spark plugs, serpentine belt and water pump were just replaced. I had the oil changed, the fluids changed, new front tires, and an alignment all about a month ago, but now every time i turn my car on there is a squealing noise coming from my engine (i assume a belt). Then when i get to higher speeds the entire car shakes, but more so on the drivers side. I have also noticed my brakes just starting to squeal as well, but the shaking was occurring before that. What it might be?
2007 Hyundai Accent GS
hatchback standard
It's only at higher speeds ( read highway travel ) that I have an issue with the road noise intruding into the cabin....mostly emanating from the rear, as best I can tell. I can live with it but I prefer not to.
I took my car to a buddy who operates a shop dealing with high-end stereo conversions, etc. Surprisingly, he said he deals with these issues all the time....including vehicles in all price ranges. He uses a product that he claims to be very effective at deadening the transfer of road noises. I had him look over my SF and make recommendations.
The product comes in fairly large sheets that are easily trimmed to conform to the spaces being treated. These sheets appear to be some sort of rubber based material. The product is applied to the inner surfaces of the car's exterior metal. Once applied ( primarily a gluing-on process ) the stuff adheres there, according to him, " for life ".
For application, he has to remove all the interior plastic pieces so he can get to the exposed body metal behind them. In my case, he would also do the rear doors so the interior door panels on those doors will also come off. Once he has access to all the areas he wants to get at, he preps the metal and glues on the product. According to him, getting all the plastic parts and door panels off, and then back on, is a snap.
I've owned this vehicle for the past year. This 2009 Corolla XRS manual has a very annoying steering rattle which took me the whole year to finally breakdown and diagnose. There are many forums stating this rattle is associated with the intermediate shaft assembly #2. I did end up replacing this part 45260-02110, hoping this would fix the rattling or knocking issue. It did not, but smoothness the steering has improved. I removed the upper portion of the intermediate shaft to pinpoint the sound. Originally I believed the noise may have been coming through the bulkhead from the intermediate shaft #1 or steering rack. I checked under the boot and everything was snug. Then I rattled the steering wheel around and this what I found.
It seems the noise is coming from the pinion where the power steering motor meets the steering column. You can hear the knocking noise with settle steering wheel movements. As I move faster, the knock turns into a rattle at higher speeds most likely vibration from the road. At this time, I do not want to disassemble the whole column just to see if I can adjust the motor height (if possible).
YouTube : [URL] ......
My 2007 Saturn Vue Hybrid has started to sound like a muscle car when I accelerate and maintain speeds over 20 mph. The RPMs are appropriate, there are no idiot lights on, and the battery appears to be behaving as usual. Also, the dash and radio lights dim and/or blink out intermittently.
View 2 RepliesMy 2009 SE V6, I have the grey cloth/leather combo and the drivers seat is pretty much cracking. I am not sure if it is cheap or the unusually cold winters we had here in MD. The car has 28,000. I am going to show to the dealer because in the cracks, the dye is coming off. I had a Trailblazer LTZ for 3 years and never seen that happen but it was tan leather.
Second, my car at higher speeds has a lot of wind noise, I think it is the mirrors. I am going back to the dealer for my 30k gouging soon and I will show them the seat again.
2014 Super Duty F350 CC SWB 4x4 20" rims FX4 Gas. Did some measurements today and it turns out the right rear is 1 inch higher than the left rear. The right front is 1/2 inch higher than the left front. Is this normal?
View 14 RepliesI hear a consistent tick tick tick when driving coming from what sounds like the passenger side wheel . It's is consistent with the rate of speed I'm traveling so if I'm going slow the tick is slow and if I speed up the tick speeds up. If I stop the tick stops.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 Excursion 7.3, 6 position tune, and exhaust as far as mods (on truck when bought). Last couple of weeks I get no power while on the throttle, foot on the gas and the whole truck shakes at higher speeds - 40mph and above. At first it wouldn't go above 60 or so, would hit the gas and Rpms would just stop not be able to generate any further power. Changed the IPR, ICP, and CPS.
I still get the high/low range ICP codes, P1280, P1281. First night the IPR was changed I got it up to 90mph and thought it was all solved but got a little shake right at the top and I let off the gas. Next day back to square one and has seemed to get progressively worse, almost wasn't able to make it up a hill by my house not even going 20mph, but it's like intermittent. I have a scan tool, here is at idle and at around 60mph ....
Just wondering if this is anything to be concerned about. I have a 2006 Saturn Vue. It has just over 80,000 miles on it. The temperature gauge has always registered just below the "second mark" once the car is warm. As of last week, the gauge is now registering slightly past the "second mark." So, higher. It is no where near the "red" zone, and nothing seems to be wrong, but it has me concerned. I took it in for service and they said "it is still well within the normal range, don't worry about it." But I think something made the gauge go higher, and I am concerned about a problem lurking. Am I being a Nervous Nellie? I love my Vue and want to take good care of it.
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