SC/SL/SW :: 1999 Saturn Cylinder 1 Will Not Fire / It Has Spark To The End Of Plug
Apr 14, 2012
I have a 99 Saturn SL2/auto. Cylinder 1 will not fire. It has spark to the end of the plug. But the cylinder will not fire. No oil is getting on the plug it isn't fouling out. A brand new plug doesn't work at all. The cylinder is DEAD!
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How to get the spark plug out of cylinder #4. I have the kit to take out the base of the plug out of the head if it breaks off. But I can't get the plug out. I think the plug broke off but not the electrode. So the electrode is caught up in the porcelain tip of the plug. It's pretty tight back there with the a/c lines and fuel rail and other stuff. I tried needle nose but they just don't grip it right, to get enough force to pull it. These are the plugs with the extended tips.
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I have a 02 F250 with 137 thousand miles. When it had 130 thousand on it I had the plugs changed unknowing that this year 5.4 was known for blowing the plugs.
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2001 Ford F350 V10, 220K in crap condition
First of all on the left side 2 of the coils were so withered the rubber separated from the bolt and were loose. Without any tools I was able to remove 2 coils. Typically there is the hole and several inches inside hole is where the spark plug sits.
On cylinder 4 the spark plug is on a funny angle and is level with the hole or possibly poking up above the hole. Tried sticking the ignition coil over the spark plug but it wasn't correct. Leaving it alone until my cousin can take a look. Spark plug was tight but I didn't put a ratchet on it.
Wondering, is this the infamous spark plug blew threw the cylinder thing. Wish I would have taken a picture (I will next time I'm with truck).
Had codes for misfires on 4 cylinders but that was with 2 coils unplugged (way I got truck at auction)....I replaced 3 of them (1/2/6).Cleared codes...4th cylinder remained unplugged....And the only code I got after letting truck idle for 10 minutes was something about ignition coil D (which would line up with cylinder 4 I think).
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I need to tap a bigger hole and put in an insert for the spark plug. I can see that the piston is far enough down so that it won't get harmed from the process. But if I don't get the intake and exhaust valves shut, and then use compressed air to blow out what chips I can, and then I start the engine for a few seconds to blow out anything else (with the coil unplugged of course) will a few remaining chips, along with some that may have gotten blown into the intake, be a big problem? It's an aluminum head, so I can't see the chips doing much damage before they go out the exhaust or end up in the oil filter. But I am just guessing. I don't have the tool to test when all the valves are shut. Also, is it possible that a valve might be in the way and get damaged from the tap?
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I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 that I bought used a couple of years ago. About every 20k miles (120k miles on it now) I get a check engine light and upon diagnosis it's the 4th cylinder spark plug fouled out, every time. I change the spark plug, but the old ones are always identical in damage. The porcelain has cracked on the spark plug.
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I have a 22R sitting in my celica and my problem is that when I was driving home from school I stopped at a stop sign..... Well I started to take off from the stop sign and as I did Spark plug three blew out of the cylinder... (WTF) well anyways I started it back up and drove it 2 blocks to where I live and it backfired and now I have no spark to any of my wires or spark plugs I checked the Main Engine Relay works just fine, For fuel problems anyways.. other than that I believe my timing skipped during that bad backfire so Woohoo for that but any other problems that could have caused "no spark" like my igniter blew out or my coil.. I would like to know where the fuse is (if any) for the igniter.
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Getting error code p0302, misfire in 2, pulled the plug and had oil on the treads and on the lower part. My guess is the valve cover gasket, but I'm not 100 percent sure.
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My son has a 2001 F150 with a 4.6L V8 that's blown a sparkplug from # 3 cylinder. The plug looks as if struck by lightning and has a burn groove as deep as a kitchen match stem the full length of the threads.
How difficult is an engine swap/change using another 4.6L? Neither of us have extensive mechanical backgrounds but plenty of aptitude.
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With the many discussions on F150 spark plug blow outs, is there any consistency in which Cylinders usually go or is it completely random. In my 2003 F150, 4.6, 2wd, I've replaced #3 cylinder with insert and now #2. Currently I'm at 154,000 miles but want to travel cross country with a load. I don't want to stall out on the hwy, would it be wise to go and insert the remaining cylinders - not cheap. My mechanic is willing to inspect with a bore scope the threads and re-torque. Is there a point at which if it hasn't been a problem it won't be. Truck is used primarily for commuting and to pull a single jet ski in the summer. Both blow-outs happened at a stop-light about 20,000 miles apart with no load.
Follow-up. Did inspection, found cylinder #7 nearly stripped out - it was actually pushing up the coil. Funny thing is, this plug had already the small insert which was coming out with the plug. I bought the vehicle new. Was this a factory repair? or did my previous mechanic strip-it when replacing all my plugs at 95,000 miles? Lucking the large inserts my current mechanic uses was able to find some metal and make a good repair. Looking at the cylinder order, I have now replaced 3 of the inter four cylinders (2,3,7) should have I done #6 too, this is probably the next high risk cylinder or not?
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I am getting a cylinder 5 misfire and this has been a "on again off again" situation since last August. I took it around to a few places and the general solution was to get new spark plugs. After doing a bit more research I was advised to change the coil cover. I did that and it fixed the problem. Then about 4 months later the light came on again. I happened to change the air filter and the light went off. I though great, problem solved! not so much, when i went to the mountains the other day the light came back on. I did my research again and I have decided to get the plugs changed. Its a 2005 f150 with 94,500 miles on it.
I am told its time to change them regardless. I started calling around and getting quotes and have been told by multiple shops that ford made the plugs in my truck in a bad way. They have been telling me to change them and breaking them is a 50/50 shot. THEN, when they quote me they charge a rate to replace them plus the plugs themself. If they happen to break one then the customer pays for the new one. Do the plugs would really break that easy and should I plan on replacing some of them?
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I just replaced the glow plugs, gpr, valve cover gasket and harness. When cooled down, cranks but won't fire. Smoke DOES come out the tailpipe. If I plug it in for awhile it fires right up. What else can I do or check?
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I have a 2000 Ford F-350 V10 Triton that is currently not running. It all started when I was going to work at 7:00am it just shut off in the middle of the road. I had someone to take out of the road and found out one of the fuses had blown. It was replaced and not even a mile down the road it died again, luckily next to Orielly's. They came out and did a test and found out it was coil 10. I purchased and installed a new one and went down the road only to have it die again. I replaced the fuse again, and went back to Oriellys and just as I was backing into the parking spot it died, this time smoke coming from under the hood. The brand new coil had caught on fire but I extinguished the flame and got the coil unplugged before any damage happened. Replaced the same coil and it ran fine until I got home, let it idle and it was fine. Then, two days later I started it and it died, again smoke coming from under the hood but no flames or fire. Now cylinder 10 does not fire any more. What the cause is?
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99 F250LD 4x4 w/5.4 and 215k . I'm sure I'm not the only one with this problem. Just had quite a bit of rain in my area. I didn't drive the truck in it but 3 days after the rain stopped I did. Skipping badly ! It has done it before and will clear itself up after a heat cycle or two. This time it kicked a p0307 code. # 7 cylinder not fire correctly I believe. I got ready to replace the cop but decided to wait a day. In the mean time I pulled the connector and blue compressed air through it and the male connector.
The next morning I decided to drive it before replacing the coil. Absolutely no skipping at all. Drove at different speeds , up heels slow , high speeds, no skipping. Ran the truck for about 20 minutes or so. Is the connector getting moisture in it ? Can I fill the connector with dielectric grease? Is there another problem. I cleared the codes and am going to drive a couple of cycles to see if any come back. Like I said it has done this before but not bad enough to throw a code so I'm not sure if it's always number 7.
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I have a 2001 ford f250 6.8 v10 with just about 183,000 miles on it my wife has been driving it and she told me it was running kinda rough so I took it for a drive and she was right so I pulled #1 COP and found it was full of oil and the same with#2 and #3 had a little bit of oil not as bad. What is causing my plug holes to fill with oil?
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I purchased a 2000 F250 SD with 5.4L Automatic for a project with my daughter. After removing the fuel rail and the coil pack on the driver side I noticed two spark plug holes had oil in it almost to the top of the plug. I'm guessing it is a bad rocker cover gasket that is allowing oil to leak into the plugwells? Nothing I could find on the internet relating to this.
After removing the rocker cover the silicone gasket was intact but wet with oil. I purchased a replacement Felpro gasket but now understand they might need grommets for the crazy bolts Ford uses to hold the cover on the head.
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Have a 2005 F350 4x4 SRW 5.4L with roughly 90k miles and I am replacing the original plugs. Broke three out of seven which was expected and have them replaced. You probably noticed I wrote 7 plugs above. The 8th plug which happens to be the #8 plug is giving me fits. I can't get a socket on it. The socket spins smoothly by hand with no ratchet over the plug but no upward movement. I cleaned the base of the hole thinking it might have some debris preventing it from hitting bottom. From what I can see after cleaning and blowing it out, the base of the hole is clean and there plug appears to have something for the socket grab onto. Out of curiosity, I have tried smaller and larger sockets in both 6 and 12 point with no luck. Is it possible the plug was set too deep in the head from the factory?
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About a week ago I blew #10 spark plug out of my 1999 super duty. I was able to screw it back in, though it only has 2 1/2 threads now, and was able to put 12 ft/lb's of torque on it. I am driving it around and it is running fine but i am wondering if i am sitting on a ticking time bomb thats gonna blow at a random time, and if so what should i do about it. Should i just run it until the plug fully blows out, or is there an easier and cheaper fix that i could do if i fix it before the threads are fully stripped out. I have heard about Time Serts, but without pulling the head i would be scared of having a metal shaving get down into my cylinder and scratch the hell outta it.
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So my 2000 F250 has 182k and I am not sure when plugs were changed. Its got the 5.4. My 2001 Excursion has 102k on the v10 and I've read a few threads about blowing plugs and now I am scared out of my mind. Do I need to worry about breaking them or stripping anything?
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What is the spark plug pattern on the 460 n where the wires go on the cap. And also how to time it.
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I have an 03 F250 5.4L
Driving down the highway today, I notice my truck was jerking forward a little, hard to notice almost felt like I was hitting very small pot holes. I revved up a little to see if I could notice any noises and I got a loud pop. after the pop, got a noise like an exhaust leak so I pulled off to the side of the highway and popped the hood (engine still running). Noticed the noise coming from the passenger side most forward spark plug. Then noticed the part that the coil attaches too had broke off from its bracket and was unseated, shut off the engine and pulled it out to find the coil cover had melted to the coil.
The spark plug inside was moving freely so I took it out thinking it stripped from the header. Come to find that the plug had actually separated from its threading completely so just the core part of the plug had shot out from the cylinder, the threading and socket attachment portion still fully attached. I installed a new spark plug and new coil harness and coil. Seems to be running as good as new now. Is there more to this than a simple blown plug that I need to worry about?
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