SC/SL/SW :: 1995 - How Many Quarts Does 1.9 Liter DOHC Engine Hold
Sep 12, 2007
1995 sedan, how many quarts does the 1.9 liter dohc engine hold.
What weight should I use?
Seems to burn a little oil, anything to reduce this?
1995 sedan, how many quarts does the 1.9 liter dohc engine hold.
What weight should I use?
Seems to burn a little oil, anything to reduce this?
Idles really high at startup until the engine gets to normal operating temperature and falls back to normal. Takes 10-15 minutes. I recently de-greased the engine and think I may have fouled a sensor...though the check engine light is NOT on. I'm afraid if I keep this the way it is it will cause damage to the engine.
View 2 RepliesI have acquired a 4.6l DOHC out of a mid year 85 mustang cobra, would like to install in my 2000 F150 that has a 4.6l sohc, what is available for ECM with the swap?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 F150 with a 5.4L with a little over 100,000 miles. And the engine knocks like it about 1 1/2 quarts low on oil! I'm not a mechanic by any means, but I'd like to know how to get this fixed. I've actually had 2 different people ask how I got a diesel engine in a 1/2 ton truck!
View 11 RepliesAfter its 2.3 liter engine is warmed up, our '87 Ranger has intermittent problems of idle dropping to nearly dying altogether and then overcompensating to recover. Normally, after throttling up to 1500rpm or so, it will idle steady for 15 or 20 seconds then start the process again.
After normal tuneup part replacements (i.e. plugs, wires, cap, rotor and fuel filters=there are 2), I spent over $100 on replacing O2, throttle position and EGR sensors but symptoms still occur. Was advised to consider replacing the Mass Air Flow sensor but that part doesn't exist for the '87 model. Was told the equivalent part is "Idle Air Control Valve" at approximately $80.
I own a toyota camry le automatic that has the engine light on and dies while driving. I've taken it to a mechanic and he diagnosed the error codes p0500 and 720. we fixed the 720 by replacing the trans. speed shaft sensor and replaced the vehicle speed sensor with one we bought from ebay. The rpm will shoot up randomly whilst the check engine light is on. the speedometer works just fine now. car dies when it slows down or at a stop. the rpm goes far below 1000 and i smell gas then i hear it beginning to struggle just to stay on.
The dash lights dim and return to normal then dim again and repeat then it shuts off and the battery light along with oil light come on. turns on fine but when put in reverse or drive it shuts off. it cant go more than 3 minutes without it messing up. when the engine light isn't on it runs just fine but once it turns on i've got about three minutes to get back somewhere safe. also when it does want to die i have to give it gas for it to stay on. i feel a major lag also and the o/d light flashes along with the pwr light.
I have about 160K on this truck, head gasket was repaired about 50k ago by former owner, has run pretty well and trouble free since I purchased it four years ago. Recently replaced plugs, coil packs, wires resulting in improved running/mileage. However, I've been getting a secondary air injection system error code for six months or so, (both before and after 'tune up'), performed snorkel modification to prevent uptake of road splashed water, checked fuses next to battery (good). Up to now I just ignored this sole error code since engine was running well. TPS checks 'good.'
Recently the engine would occasionally run poorly for short duration (@ all RPMs & regardless of throttle) and up to now simply parking overnight or just stopping briefly at a store would seem to reset the poor operation. Unfortunately within the last week it now runs like crap all the time: over revs for upshift, poor power, almost feels as if a cylinder is missing entirely, or timing has gone horribly 'off.' No other error codes, no obvious vacuum leaks. Ran through two bottles of Techron, no change. Does the 'toggling' of the engine running poorly/well offer any clues? Sticky injector?
My truck is skipping but if I give it more throttle it will stop but then will start back when I let off the throttle. It seems like it is only running on half the cylinders. This problem is intermittent which makes it very hard to troubleshoot even for the dealership and other places I have taken it. Also, the problem is temperature sensitive. It only does it below 40 deg. F. Truck runs fine any other time of the year. Truck has new plugs, plug wires, distributor, egr valve, O2 sensor. Also, the IAC has been cleaned. The check engine light does not come on.
View 14 RepliesA month or so ago my engine light came on with the message "engine power is reduced". well i had it checked out, the code from the engine light suggested a bad throttle body. I then replaced the throttle body myself. (unplugged the throttle body sensor, unscrewed the four bolt holding it on, replaced with new throttle body, and reattached cord to new sensor that was attached to the new throttle body) i then re-learned the idle speed through chevys process on their website. The engine light disappeared and everything was a okay for about a week and a half. then it started doing the same thing again. (engine light came on message appeared, obvious reduction in power from the throttle) It is continuing to get worse and sometimes it will shut off my engine display the message "starting disabled service throttle".
I have been shutting the car off ( if it wasn't already off) and wiggling the wires leading to the sensor attached to the throttle body. i'd then close the hood and start the car and it would act normal (engine light still on) with no reduction in power until the next time (which was usually about 30 driving min later give or take) recently a new symptom popped up when i am going uphill or giving it the beans it'll display the usual engine pwer reduced message and sometimes shut off the car. not only that but if it gives me the message and shuts off if i dont wiggle the wires or something of that nature when i start it the whole car shutters while the rpms go up and down. so did i just get bad luck and buy a faulty throttle body ( i bought i t brand new from o'riellys or however you spell that) .
Car has 252k miles runs ruff after engine warms up, looses power, if I give more gas, car will sputter, but rev up to 5k engine smoothes out. This situation constantly comes and goes.
View 3 RepliesI am trying to change the alternator in my dohc but cant get it out, I am trying to remove the pulley on the crankshaft and cannot figure out how to remove it. How to get the alternator out???????
View 10 RepliesI have a 1999 Dodge Intrepid 2.7 L DOHC that continues to run hot. I have replaced the thermostat, fans, relief value and have done a radiator flush.
After I have had these things done the car does fine for about a week then back to the same old crap. I can drive about 40 miles in the morning time nothing happens. In the afternoon about 20 miles then the temp gauge starts rising so I turn on my heater for about 5 minutes till it goes down then turn the ac back on for the next 20 miles home and does fine.
If I turn the car off for about 10 minutes or less then crank it back up the temp gauge jumps way up there I sit and let it idle till it goes back down on its own without the heater.
I bought the car maybe months ago and the gas gauge nor the thermostat worked. The fan kicks on just fine never seems like it's over heating and it doesn't lose water or anything like that. For some reason it's a pain in the booty hole to put in gas it stops every 45 cents. When I first got the car the dash lights didn't want to work but kicked in and now they work fine also the AC button doesn't light up or turn on and the dome light also doesn't work.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 Camry with 302,245 miles. I am noticing that it is using a lot of oil. Maybe 2 quarts extra in between oil changes.
I came home tonight and noticed oil on the garage floor. At first I thought it was water from the AC but it smelled and felt like oil.
Could the engine be burning oil and a possible leak?
I have a 1999 toyota corolla I just bought it for my daughter for her first car the only thing I've noticed is that it only had 1000 miles on it since I changed the oil and that it was 3 quarts low? Not sure what happened but I checked it again after her second 1000 miles and it was again 3 quarts low. The car does not leak oil and does not smoke
View 2 RepliesFor an '04 Passat Wagon with manual transmission. NO 4-motion.
I'm buying liter bottles of gear oil G052911A2 and need to know how many to get for a full fluid change.
My buddy has been telling me that his 2000 dodge Dakota v8 sport is burning 4 quarts of oil a day. Note that he only drives roughly 25 miles a day. The truck is claimed to have no oil leak whatsoever and this happens around 2500 miles after every oil change. I find it very hard to believe.
View 19 RepliesThe beast slowed to a crawl on the interstate saturday morning for my son's soccer games... wouldn't hold speed up hills and engine had definite shudder at all speeds... fortunately, the dealer is in the city he was playing in adn the service dept is open on saturday mornings, so I could drop it off... they were exceptional about getting a loaner (new jetta tdi wagon)... they called today to report that one of the turbos was ruined... VW says they have to replace both to complete repair... tracked down parts in germany and will take about a week to arrive, then a day or so to repair. Had problems with the v10's turbos? I'm at about 12K miles... this is my second v10 and it's kinda spooky to have this kind of problem...
View 20 RepliesMy 09 matrix is using about 3 quarts of oil every 5000 miles. I bought the car new and it has 114,000 miles on it. I don't notice any smoke or leaks anywhere.
View 14 RepliesMy 2009 Dodge Journey is great for the first 2,500 miles after each oil change, then the oil just seems to vanish. The dealership has been tracking this for a couple of cycles... the oil level is fine when they check it every 500 miles, but somewhere between 2,500 and 3,000 miles about 2 quarts disappear. No apparent leaks or puddles.
So... now the Dodge dealer is saying they want to tear down the motor to "find out what's wrong," but they can't even tell me what they're looking for. What they should be looking for?Also, they are not fessing-up if they have seen the same problem in other vehicles, but it's hard to imagine they randomly got permission to do this.
My 4.2 l f150 has been losing a lot of oil.7quarts in a week.the truck runs great and it does not smoke.i have been under the truck looking for any significant leaks.I left it parked on concrete overnight no oil drips. I've had my wife rev it up while I was under the truck cannot find anything
View 5 Replies