We are having issues shifting the car it is hard to shift into gears. I have replaced the transmission and the clutch, trans mount is still good all mounts for that matter are still in great condition its getting tiring to have to slam the car into gear all the time.
View 1 RepliesAfter driving around hard for a couple minutes I got home and the car smelled like something is burnt then I went out to drive normally to get the smell out but didn't work. Then I realized my gears were hard to move into especially 1st, 2nd, 3rd. Its hard to change into those gears now. what could be the reason? What do i need to do for my gears to move smoothly again? I just got this car, my first.
View 5 Repliesis it the clutch or the shifter or something else? I did have to replace the 2 shifter cables about 18 months ago as they broke, but lately, it is having a very hard time going into gear, especially 1st gear when stopped. It's so bad my wife won't drive it any more. We love our 35mpg Saturn and want to keep it running well.
View 7 Replies2009 Kia Sorento. The Transmission was replaced twice last week and the week before. For the same problem. 50K miles. Auto Transmission...
I have a hard shift between 3rd & 4th gears, I have had the transmission replaced twice. Could it be something else?
My 03 Gli 24v manual transmission has been acting up lately. First it started to get a little difficult to shift into gears about a week ago. Then tonight i was driving through a parking lot in 2nd, and after i came to a stop i tried to put it back in to first and it would not go into gear. As i was trying to get it into 1st i could tell it was grabbing a little bit and the car was inching forward.
I got it to a parking spot and starting reading about other peoples issues, one i read said they were able to get it to move after pumping the clutch some. After trying that i was able to get it into gear and drive it to my parents. Looked at my brake fluid and its full. Took it for a test drive around the neighborhood and it was shifting fine at first then started getting a little difficult to shift again. I tried taking off in 6th and it stalled. I tried going from 1st around 3k-4k rmps to 6th and it was still driving with very little lugging. My clutch feels and is still stiff, not loose at all. I do have to go all the way to the floor with the clutch before im able to shift
Finally to my questions. Could my clutch be going bad? Could my cables need adjusting? Something I read about a pressure plate maybe?
I own a 2002 Monte Carlo SS 3.8 6cyl. I believe it has a 4T65-E transmission.
On a regular basis if I drive 20 miles out of town, on my way back the transmission starts to shift hard (long shift?). From my research online, the 4T65-e is a faulty transmission to begin with. Is it worth replacing the Shift and Pressure solenoids? If I were to buy a new transmission where should I look? What are some model numbers?
Oil, trans fluid, filters are changed on regular basis.New catalytic converter. No Check Engine Light.
I've got a 2003 Xterra, RWD, manual transmission, with around 110k. It's been giving me a little trouble shifting into gears 1-3 when the weather's below 30F. It started doing this when I got the transmission fluid changed last, about 2 years ago. I took it back to the mechanic who fixed it immediately, and he changed the fluid a second time for free, but when the problem persisted, he said he had no idea. Needless to say, I haven't gone back to him. Since then, I've tried to ignore it (not too hard in sunny NC), but it's getting worse and I'm about to move to Chicago, so I think I should fix it before I move to the land of harsh winters. My first guess would be the tranny fluid weight might be a little low and I should try a heavier weight.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2004 manual transmission Santa Fe. I've maintained it very well since new.
About 6 months ago I noticed it was getting difficult to manually shift gears. It wasn't grinding or anything, just "hard" to get it to go into the various gears while driving. Before, I could shift into any gear with just 2 fingers on the gearshift and it was smooth as silk.
I went in and had the gear oil changed. This was something I didn't even know needed to be changed and the guy said most people never do. They showed me the oil they took out and it looked more like black water than oil and smelled kinda funky. They changed the gear oil out, but still no difference, and in fact it's getting worse.
The best way to describe it is the only way I can really shift gears now is to find that "sweet spot speed" where the gears will change on their own (so to speak). I find it particularly difficult going from 1st to 2nd, such as when starting from a stop light. People almost rear-end me now as it takes me longer to get it into 2nd gear.
Once in gear it runs perfectly, no problems. The clutch seems to be working normally, except perhaps while stopped in 1st gear, it sometime seems to jerk a bit, and I find this most noticeable if I'm stuck in very slow moving heavy traffic with the constant stopping and then moving forward slightly and such.
It is almost impossible to "gear down" into a lower gear unless I'm at the speed where it would normally go into that lower gear on it's own. The best way to describe it is how it is possible to drive a standard transmission car WITHOUT a clutch if you shift at just the right time/speed. But I DO use my clutch, but if I'm not close to "that speed" it's really, really difficult to force it into another gear, and the few times I do try and force it, I'll often get a bit of grinding.
I went on vacation for a week and left my car at my parents house. I came back and now it has become extremely difficult to shift between gears. It's nearly impossible to get the car into reverse, extremely difficult to get it into first, makes a thud when pulling it out of first, is semi difficult to get into 2nd, but only a mild nuisance to get into 3rd through 6th.
For more information, the car is a 2012 Volkswagen GLI with just shy of 40,000 miles. The car ran just fine before I went on vacation and the car was not moved while I was on vacation. I did notice that a little ticking kind of sound when I had the car in neutral with no clutch. So the throw out bearing was starting to wear, but it was a very slight. But I haven't had any other problems.
I have a 2002 ford ranger edge. swb, 3.0L, 5spd. I have been noticing it is getting harder to shift gears, put in 1st at a stop light lately. There is no grinding just seems harder to engage. Checked fluid level and it is clean and full. Recently i have developed a vibration under power. Let off the gas and smooth as can be, apply throttle and starts vibrating. Not sure if flywheel is "hot spotted" or perhaps broke a spring on pressure disk. Just seems odd it's only under throttle. Yes already checked rear end and U-joints.
View 2 RepliesSo I recently purchased a 2007 LS460 with 115k on it. I've noticed that about a month ago the car started driving pretty weird. The transmission would shift hard and jerky almost through the first 3 gears, like driving a manual.
Also, when I tried to floor the car from maybe 40-50mph, the rpm would shoot up only 500 then downshift and accelerate causing a violent jerk. It feels like if I was driving at 50mph on 8th gear, when I floored it the car would feel like it downshifted to 7th gear for merely less than a second and downshifted again to 4th gear causing the car to jerk hard.
This is the car's history:
- Reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery (no luck)
- Auto transmission software has been updated at the dealer
- Valve springs recall has been completed
- Head covers has been changed
- Engine module has been reprogrammed by the dealer at 70k miles
- Trans fluid has been changed at 70k miles according to lexus.com service record
So at this point I really don't know what could cause this problem anymore, maybe it could be the transmission fluid?
I've been having problems with my column shifter ever since I installed a Pioneer shift cable probably about 3 years now. I was told and also thought that the cable would loosen up after awhile but it never has. I had some put it on and I watched him do it. He seemed to have some trouble because it took him a long time under the dash. It shifts so stiff that over a period of about 2 years it finally broke the end of the shift tube one night. Luckily I was able to fix it the next day by getting a spare without missing any down time. It was still just as stiff with the other shift tube. It finally broke the plastic on my shifter tonight, not necessarily whatever is causing it but because it takes so much effort to shift into Park, Reverse or Drive.
I think the plastic may have cracked over time. Luckily I had another one at home along with another shift tube. I didn't replace the shift tube this time but I did remove the caps and smear some grease on the bushings to see if it would make it turn. I looked further down at the end cap that broke last time and sure enough one of the bolts was backed almost all the way out. I retightened it tonight too. That's what happened when the bottom broke last time. One of those bolts backed out and it cracked the housing. It works now but if you go all the way to 1st to get back to anywhere it really takes a tremendous amount of effort to get it to shift. Something is not right and I cannot pinpoint it. I know they offer brand new shift tubes but I'm not sure if that's the problem.
I inherited this car from my grandmother when she passed. It has low miles, around 40k. Since I paid zero for it, I would like to keep it. Historically I have done all my repairs, but never trans work.
Here are the symptoms. The car has issues shifting into higher gears. I have to punch the gas and then it will switch gears. It then began to do this for reverse, and now now reverse does not work at all.
At first I thought it was a speed sensor problem, but when I took it in to be read, it came up with P0734. It could be electrical (Speed sensor?), low fluid (it's not low), or 4th gear.
Is this transmission worth me fixing or paying to have it repaired, or should I move on?
P.S. If I drop the pan and find shavings, I understand that to point to 4th gear and bearing (also what the computer code read as the issue). Do shavings mean it definitely is 4th/bearing, or could it be another blown part?
So I changed transmission fluid on my 1.8t GLS because I was having difficulty shifting out of gears on cold starts. It seemed to work fine for a few days and now I'm back to square one, it still doesn't want to shift correctly!
View 14 RepliesBeen having trouble shifting into any gears on these chilly mornings in VA now... The clutch has been sticking on its way out when I release it and the gears don't want to engage unless I really push hard on the shift knob.
View 11 Replies1992 Buick Park Avenue, Base. For awhile now I've had trouble shifting into park from other gears. Sometimes, it'll flow right into park without trouble. Other times, I have to work it, to kind of baby it in. However, it simply will not shift into park from reverse. Period. If I'm in reverse and want to park, I have to go into drive, neutral, etc, and then try to move it into park.
A mechanic I know looked at the neutral safety switch and thought it could be causing the problem. We figured it wasn't in the steering column or the cable to the switch because if we disconnect the cable, you can slide that lever all day long. So I purchased a new neutral safety switch and had him install it, but the same problem is there. Actually, let me clarify: while it was in his garage, with the old switch, it would no longer go into park at all, regardless (kind of decided to just stop altogether). At least with the new switch we can baby it into park, but it is basically back to where it was last week. He mentioned it might be deeper in the transmission, but that's out of his league.
I bought an as is 1994 Saturn sw2 and the blinkers aren't working. I already changed the fuse, and the bulbs come on with the head lights. I am not sure what else I could try.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1994 Saturn SL and ever since I bought it a few years ago it has been overheating in traffic but does just fine when I am driving without the stop and go. About a year ago 2 of the cylinders blew and I had to spend $700 to replace the now shot motor with a rebuilt one. Well the engine still heats up. I tried replacing the cooling sensor a few weeks ago and still no change. It really sucks because the only thing that keeps it from totally overheating is if I put the heater on full blast. And considering it's almost summer I really want to get this thing fixed. Using the A/C only makes it overheat worse, and will make my engine stop if I keep it running while stopped for a few minutes at a time like at a stop light.
View 10 RepliesI just bought a 1997 Saturn SL2 5 speed it runs great but when shifting gears the RPM stays high while changing the gears. The man who sold it to us said it's done this ever since he's had it (2yrs) and it also burns oil in between the oil changes. I've been told so much I'm torn what to try and do to fix's the RPM to not stay so high while changing the gears.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2002 Saturn SL2 (automatic). A few days ago it abruptly started thumping pretty heavily when shifting gears, especially going into reverse and 4th (or possibly 5th) gear. A couple mechanics told me the transmission is going, and that it would need to be replaced (but it would cost more than the car is worth. One said that we could try replacing the computer that controls the transmission, but it would cost ~$300, and might not do any good. Another said to try Lucas Transmission Fix. I've seen mixed reviews of it online, so I'm wary. Is it a good product, or does it just briefly mask the problem? Also, I looked under the hood, and cannot tell where I would even put it.
View 12 RepliesI recently tried to recharge my 1994 Saturn SW2 air conditioning. The system took the charge fine, nice cool air again. Yea! On disconnecting the adapter, I heard the sound of escaping gas. I was able to place my thumb over the port and block the leak, tried reattaching adapter and removing several times, but the valve will not fully seal. Placing the cap back on the port with a small piece of plastic food wrap (hi tech) stopped the sound, but obviously not the leak entirely. A couple of weeks and the a/c is back to blowing hot air.
Is there any way to encourage the valve to seal? Should I try the variety of refrigerant that seals leaks? Is there a better choice for blocking the leak than food wrap? If it comes to it, replacing the low pressure line, is that something a person who knows how to use a wrench but not much more can do?