SC/SL/SW :: 1991 - Progressively Stalling More Often
Aug 7, 2012
The title says a lot. I have a 1997 Saturn SL1 that has progressively been stalling more and more often. It doesn't stutter and then stall, it goes from robust engine power to nil. It's done it while at speed and while at idle, though most often at idle. ...related? I do burn oil.
I cleaned the throttle body and EGR to the best of my abilities (full removal. the throttle body is immaculate, the egr...meh) This cleared out a check engine light that recently came on, and renewed some life in the engine when it's not dead at the side (or middle) of the road.
I'm thinking fuel filter? Would this make sense? Anything else I'd be wise to consider?
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I've had a 1991 buick skylark for 3 years, just hit 100,000 miles, and for the past few months i've been having problems with it stalling out/misfiring when I press the gas, almost like a lawnmower running out of gas, and then catch and go fine. it was only happening at the 3rd gear change,(randomly but only at that change), and then it started happening only at the 2nd gear change. it first happened at the end of a long road trip, and the speedometer and odometer stopped working at the same as well, but have since returned. but now it's been happening on cross town trips.
Every time it has happened has been random, and it always corrected itself and was fine. but this last time, it was doing it consistently, at random gear changes and from idle. it finally gave out at a stop sign and it barely stuttered across the intersection, but with the check engine light on and never "catching on" or actually dying/cutting off. I took it to my local shop, and they ran all the computer test and road tested it and told me they couldn't find anything wrong. they tested the fuel pump, which had good pressure. They mentioned it might be the module, but were honest and didn't want to charge me for something they couldn't tell was actually wrong. any clue?
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I have a 1991 300sel Mercedes, when you come to a stop light it stalls, this happens few times a day for a week and then it's ok for s couple of weeks and than it does it again, I've changed the fuel filter, fuel pump, did a tune-up, don't know what else to look for?
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The car is a 91 Chevy Camaro RS , 3.1 V6 and a 5 speed. Mileage is approx 400K + , the odometer has never worked since purchase and showed 239K when I purchased it approx 8 years ago.
The battery croaked due to being low on water and at the same time a stalling problem began so I wonder if the battery going bad may have contributed to the stalling issue.
The battery has been replaced with a new one but the stalling issue has not been resolved by replacing the battery.
At start up the car will idle correctly, occasionally when starting the rpm's will shoot up then slowly slow to correct idle
speed and usually continue to run.
When driving car seems fine but when the clutch is pushed in when coming to a stop at a sign, light, etc the engine rpm's begin to slow from traveling r's down to what would be normal idle speed, this is when it stalls.
If I left foot the brake and keep r's up with my right foot I can prevent the car from stalling. If I (using my foot on the gas) allow the r's to slowly come down to sitting idle speed it usually will not stall.
The cat converter was removed from the car several years back so it's not a clogged exhaust problem.
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I drive a 2004 Kia spectra (base model) w/ 93k
My clutch would start out fine as I start the car, but after pressing on the clutch pedal for about 40-60 times on one trip, it'll start to loose pressure & becomes stickier. And as I press on the clutch pedal more & more, the problem gets progressively worse to the point where I have to manually pull the clutch back up with the tip of my foot.
I also notice that when I drive with the air conditioning, the problem would precipitate earlier & clutch response deteriorates much quicker. But when I let the car rest for a couple of hours or overnight, the clutch response would slowly return, and eventually be normal again.
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I have a 2002 Saturn SL with nearly 170,000 miles on it, but the manual transmission has gone seriously wrong... I was driving today and I noticed that it was progressively getting harder and harder to shift. By the middle of the afternoon I was strong arming it. Yanking it into as well as out of gear. By around early evening I could no longer get it into gear at all. I was at a stop sign when this happened and ended up stuck there. Now here's the weird part: When I shut off the car the shifter would slide right into gear. In fact, it would go into all of the gears no problem. As soon as I started the car back up I couldn't get it into gear. So what ended up happening is that I put the trans in gear then started it and limped it home in 2nd.
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My drivers door has become progressively sticky / stiff to close, I have tried to lubricate with oil / grease but it remains difficult to move?
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My drivers window gets progressively slower the further down it goes. Does this seem like motor is shot? Can you open window motor case and rebuild it like the older ford window motors?
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2009 Matrix with 2Zr-Fe engine (233,000 km or 145000 miles).
Engine has been getting progressively harder to start in the morning, especially when it is cold. Once its warmed up then it starts no problem next time. Occasionally I get the dreaded P0304 code upon startup. Also runs a lot rougher but that's hard to quantify here, I'm just going by sound.
Decided tonight to go through a complete checkup and here is what I found:
1. Looked for a dead cylinder by idling the car and disconnecting each fuel injector one at a time - everything was as it should be.
2. Used my spark tester (OTC 6589) and tested each coil in turn (yes I had the tester connected to battery negative using a battery booster cable). Each sparked strong and correct colour.
3. Pulled all spark plugs and checked them for cracks, carbon tracks and electrode gap, all were fine.
4. Did a dry compression test.
- Uh oh , 2 cylinders (3 and 4) were @ 115 psi, 1 and 2 were at 150 psi (which is also low as standard spec for 2zrfe notes it should be between 157 and 199).
5. Did a wet compression test
- cylinders 3 and 4 now ended up at 150 Psi so that indicates worn rings or pistons?
6. I didn't bother with the fuel injector testing as it looks like the problem is with compression...
So, first, is my diagnosis correct? Could it be a bad head gasket?
Second, is there something in my procedure above that I could have done wrong? The car was warm but not hot. I pulled all spark plugs before starting testing. I didn't take much time between plug holes.
Third, other than rebuilding or replacing engine, are there other options or am I out of luck?
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I have been having a mysterious problem with my 2007 Pontiac Torrent that apparently no one, not even GM, can diagnose. I have done great research on this problem, and although there seems to be many many folks with Stabilitrak/Traction Control message issues, none seem to be having the same problem I am having.
Problem: After driving my car about 10 minutes, the brake pedal gets progressively stiffer and the car itself is “heavier” (no other way to describe it). If I continue driving, the car will begin to make a low roaring sound, which will get louder and louder if I continue driving. The car also at this point will lose acceleration and it is very difficult to make the car accelerate (that also makes the noise louder). A couple of times (luckily I was in my garage at home after driving), the car was stopped and when I tried to reverse, the car would not move at all.
When this problem first started (about 6 months ago), the Service Stabilitrak and Service Traction Control messages would come on, but I had a part replaced and that stopped (although the car was still having the same problem) until yesterday when those messages came on again. It has been four months since the messages stopped, yet the car was still having this problem during that time.
My remedy to this problem has been to pump the brakes each time I stop (I now take the highway instead of the interstate so that I can make enough stops to do this). I can go about 10 minutes before I have to stop, pump the brakes, and continue driving. This makes the stiffness in the brakes stop and keeps the car from making the noise and having the acceleration problems. The car runs fine as long as I do this.
During this six months, I have been to two different auto mechanics AND the local GMC dealer (at least four times). The parts that have been replaced are: right rear hub bearing assembly, EGR valve, rotors resurfaced, left rear caliper repaired, brake pressure modulator valve, and electronic brake control module. The dealership says they do not know what is causing this problem, and they claim they contacted the technicians at GM and they have never heard of this problem.
I feel this is a problem in the braking system. Something is getting hot the longer I drive and causing something to lock up the wheels, but not enough to stop the car entirely unless I continue driving. What stumps me is why does pumping the brakes work, and why are no service messages or warning lights coming on?
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Car: 1973 Mercury Capri 2.0, four speed. Lovingly restored over the past three years. The car has Ford aftermarket air conditioning, recently serviced with R-12 (past two weeks) and I have never used it until this past weekend (I bought the car and then restored it). We used it in 90 degree heat and this little car did great even in the mountains of W.Va (60 mph uphill with A/C!) But I digress. For five minutes after being turned on, the A/C cools as expected - a real champ -- no issues.
Then, it begins a cycle like this: The air starts to get progressively warmer for about 10 seconds. Then, there is a squeak, a drop in motor rpm as the A/C/ clutch engages, and it has cold air again for 20 seconds. Then the cycle again. This is the behavior whether at idle or at highway speed. It has its own two knob control panel -- not connected to the heater controls. The fan speed is on high and the "cold" knob is turned all the way cold. Turned "warmer" it does as expected - very little cold air. It seems like a thermostatic control is telling it to disengage the clutch even though it should not -- the cabin is cool but not cool enough to justify that.
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I have a 1991 Silverado K1500 with a 700R4. The truck has 142k on the engine and trans. It shifts into reverse, 1st, and 2nd fine but the engine just revs and doesn't catch 3rd.
I don't know a terrific amount about transmissions but I've pulled a few 700R4's out of Camaro's in the past.
I've been looking around on message boards and I'm guessing the 3-4 clutch pack is bad. I found another used 700R4 4x4 trans that I could swap in but it doesn't look terribly fun.
I've read in another post that it could be a stripped govenor gear or stuck governor weights? Where it is, what to check?
I'm going to drop the pan tomorrow to check for metal or clutches laying around. If I don't find anything, could the 3-4 clutch pack still be the problem?
What else might be causing this problem that I should check before pulling the tranny?
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W e got the car fixed last year. It was a 8 pin connector near the camshaft sensor called the Engine Wiring Connector.
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I have a 1991 Volvo 240 Base with an Automatic Transmission. Just yesterday, I was hopping onto the highway, when all of a sudden, my car would not go any faster than 40 to 45 MPH. It has been running fine up to that point. I ended up just taking side streets, where it ran fine. I have not taken it on the highway after that.
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i have a 91 celica 4AFE 1.6L 5 speed & the cooling fan won't come on. we checked, the fan does work, we changed the fan relay & that's not the problem. what should i do now?
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I recently purchased a 1991 Volvo Turbo 740 with 186,000 miles on it. It runs perfect for a few days and then when parked will not start. Attempt to start 1/2 hour later it starts and runs perfect again. It has done that for several days now. I have driven it to locations approximately 40 miles round trip with frequent stops for a period of time and then start up again. This AM it started up perfect as I moved it from a driveway to part in front of my house on the street. Several hours later I went to start it but it would not start. 1/2 hour later I decided to try one more time before calling the tow truck to take to a mechanics and it started up perfect again. I drove it to the library and bank later and ran perfect after the two stops. This is driving me nuts since I had taken it to a mechanic when it did this Monday and it ran great at the mechanics and he could not determine what was wrong. He told me WHEN it stops again to have it towed in and he could determine at that time when it was not running.
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I have a 91 celica with a 4afe engine and i cant get any spark. i replaced the distributor today and still no spark what else should be replaced...
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I have a 1991 celica that I can not get to start. The car has the 3sfe 2.0 in it that I think came out of an 89 celica. We have put a new starter on this car, alternator, plugs, wires and distributor cap, battery and more onto this car. The car however will push start. When you turn the key everything comes on and it clicks. Nothing else happens.
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I have a 91 celica st and my efi fuse keeps blowing. i would like to know what the efi fuse controls, or what to check first.
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I have a 1991 Saturn SL1 that stalled and now will not start because it is not getting fuel. The odd thing is at the same time it stalled the turn signals and hazard lights quit working. Could this be an electrical issue? It will crank but not turn over.
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Starts great, idles great, tested everything. Will not rev past 1500rpm.
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