I have a 96 ZR2 4.3L VIN W engine. original problem: rough idle, ran pretty good on highway, chk engine lite on, error code P300 random misfire. Just in general maint. I replaced fuel filter first. After replacing injector spider now engine will not start.
View 6 Repliesthe warning light went off in my car, so I took it to Autobarn in Evanston (where I bought the car). people are nice there.
I was told that I need to replace the harness for the fuel injectors. it is all under warranty, so it's fine. but I really would like to know how long should it take? the car is there from yesterday morning, and it's not ready yet. should it take more than 2 days to replace?
im in the process of replacing the injector cups and i knew this would happen since the whole process went way to easy up until this part. I am using Clays remover kit and it will not remove the cup. I do it according to the book and it just keeps popping out of the cup when i try to remove
View 14 RepliesI have an 01 F-250 Powerstroke. It has been shaking terribly at around 1500 rpms and shutters while holding the brake and increasing engine speed. I took it to the dealer and they told me that my #1 injector is bad. I decided to check around a little bit. I found a diesel service dealer that has brand new injectors. (Not rebuilts). Anyway I would like to attempt to install this injector myself.
1. Which injector is #1? (I've done a lot of mechanic work but not a whole lot on engines.)
2. What do you do with the fuel and oil that get into the cylinder? Do you have to get it sucked out?
3. Anything else that is crucial? What do you have to torque the injector bolt to?
I just bought a 99 F350 with 240k miles on it and got it for a deal because it needed injectors. Ive done the same job to my 97 OBS powerstroke. The injectors were already pulled so I had them sent for rebuild, the problem is I cant tell which injector goes where. is there a trick to figuring out where each injector goes when I put it back together?
View 4 RepliesFather-in-law purchased 1982 Fiat Spider. The car won't go into 4th gear, scrapes when you let the clutch out. It scrapes a little when you put it in 2nd gear. 1st, 3rd, and Reverse no problem. Changed Syncronisers, no change, put in transmission from doner car, same problem.
View 7 RepliesI have a 96 GMC Jimmy that will not start..... I have replaced the spider fuel injector and now I get the right fuel pressure. I have random non regular spark that is very week. I have replaced the ignition coil, spark plug wires, spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, cam sensor, the ECM, and the ignition control module. The crank sensor checked out to be good. I do not know where else to check...
View 7 RepliesI'm stumped with my 1973 Fiat 850 Spider. This little car has a grand total of 10 fuses, 8 below the dashboard, and two in the rear where the engine is. So, it's not that complicated, right? Wrong.
So here's the story: I purchased this little car in Philly. Everything works, except after a few days, I noticed that the car battery was out. So I jump it and allow the alternator to recharge it. It runs fine for a few days until it goes dead again. It reaches the point where it's completely dead, no service light, no radio, nothing.
I figured I bought a car with an old battery. I replaced it with a new one from Walmart. It runs great for a few days until gradually no charge again. I take it to a shop to fix something else, they test the battery and they tell me it's bad, that I bought a brick. OK, bad luck, right?
I replace the Walmart battery for another one under the warranty. What can go wrong now? Well, the same symptoms appeared after a few days. By now, surely it cannot be the battery. So I know what you're thinking. My little convertible has a parasitic draw. But remember, it has only 10 fuses, no power windows, no power locks, no computer, no software, no Bluetooth...gish, it has a push-button AM radio, for crying out loud!
So I proceed to recharge the battery. I trickle charged it for 18 hours or so. The battery is now back to new. I then connected my meter in series to the negative pole to measure the amps, expecting as you would imagine a draw of at least 4 amps. Well, the little devil has a draw of only .35 amps, well below the acceptable level for a car this type (right?).
So what gives? Does the car have gremlins or parasites? Am I going crazy? Can I be so unlucky that I have had three bad batteries in a row (even from Walmart)? Am I missing something?
I finally reinstalled my engine and transmission with a new clutch in my 1975 fiat spider. I've managed to get it started and idling nicely, but when I put it in gear, as soon as I begin to let the clutch out, it stalls. It's as though it triggers a kill switch.
Not sure if it has something to do with the clutch safety switch...? I tried jumping it in case the switch is bad, but that wasn't it. Maybe a vacuum leak/Though I would think a vac leak wouldn't let it idle and rev nicely which it does.
I have a 1990 Alfa spider. It has a blip at idle. Originally it was much worse. Idle would drop to 500 then pop up to 1200 the back down, back up etc. Engine would sometimes stall while driving. This happened as I would take my foot off the gas coming to a stop. I replaced the first large air duct between the mass air flow gauge and the air intake chamber(cracked on underside). Worked but still had blip which was then unpredictable. I cleaned the air flow gauge and the constant idle actuator with air flow cleaner. This worked more but I still have the blip during engine warmup. Idles fine at start up, blips for a while, then stops bliping as engine nears running temperature. What should I do next?
View 1 RepliesI have a 02 venture with the 3.4L. No injector pulse when no start. Security system seems to be working properly. Just changed the crank sensor behind balancer and still does the same thing. No trouble codes present. Just not sure what to check next.
View 1 Repliesi have a 1991 s10 2.5 liter that will not start. i have spark, and fuel to the injector but nothing from the injector. how do i determine if the injector is bad or something is not telling it to spray?
View 1 RepliesI have working on this one for a while ( sick wife keeping out of garage for some time) Truck fires up in the morning when cold then refuses to start when warm. Of course HPOP leak. HPOP was replaced 5k miles ago. Now today when I drove with AE connected truck all of sudden started to run rough on the highway. I pulled DTC P0279 low circuit for injector 7. My question is can the leak be at injector 7 on the oil rail? Maybe cracked injector? Waiting for the motor to cool so I can do pop off valve cover . BTW early 04 .
View 13 RepliesMy car does not start (cranks only) after I clean the fuel injector and intake manifold.
so I check the spark with tester and it is fine.then I check the fuel pressure with tester and the pressure shoots to over 42 psi without starting (normal between 38 and 46 psi) and slowly drops to 10 psi. I install fuel injector (FI) with new o-ring and gasket and there is no leakage aroung them. the fuel pressure regulator is ok. I got one from junk yard and the test show the same.
I notice there is some gas inside TB and only way to leak the gas is the FI body valve. I took all FI out and notice #2 and #3 are wet on the FI nozzle tip and use small string to push air through and can see some fluid coming out from the nozzle tip.
I thought I clean it well and do not know if this can be fixed by more cleaning. the resistance is all the same at 12.6 ohms under room temp at night in north CA.
I have a hard starting condition after warm up. It starts up fine when it is cold.After running diagnostics and coming up with no error codes, I noticed that I smell raw fuel after the car was warmed up and sitting for about 15 minutes. I believe this is the cause of the hard starting condition after warm up.
How do I test the fuel injector for leaking? I think it may be leaking fuel into the throttle body after sitting for a few minutes, causing a rich or flooded condition which makes it difficult to start after it has been warmed up.
1991 Buick Regal, 3800 V6
Having a rough idle on a cold start. After some research and closer inspection of the vehicle, I'm quite certain I have at least one leaking injector that is flooding a cylinder and causing the car to misfire on a cold start. I'm also not at the gas mileage I should be at.
So I'm wondering, is fuel injector replacement as straightforward of a job as it looks? Any major issues I could run into in doing a replacement?
I'm planning on replacing all six injectors (I can get them for $50 each buying online with a discount code), but given that the vehicle is so old am I better off just replacing the faulty ones? I'm assuming pulling the spark plugs and seeing which cylinder is wet will tell me which I need to replace.
And one more question: Is there a way to depressurize the fuel system when I park the car for the night, thus preventing fuel (or most of it) from leaking into the engine until I get this fixed? I've read that just unscrewing the gas cap can depressurize the system.
My nephew has a 2004 F350 that will crank but will not start. It will build oil pressure on the gauge. There is no injector buzz and no communication through OBD2 port. Is the PCM dead?
View 10 Replies2006 6.0 king ranch 189k sct live wire Replaced 1357 injectors and when I crank truck it will crank and sputter for a brief second but will not fully start and continue cranking and doing this over and over. Tried starting for roughly 30 minutes would not budge. Tested icp and ficm both are good. Also replaced batteries, fuel filters, checked all relays and fuses still can't figure it out. Also truck is bulletproofed.
View 6 Replies2012 F-150 5.0 Rough Idle Upon Start up - YouTube
Whenever I first start my 2012 F-150 with the 5.0, it idles rough and if I step on the gas it acts like either an injector is cutting in and out or it's missing. It doesn't really seem like a miss though, more like an injector/fuel issue. What it could be. If I let it sit and idle it won't go away unless I step on the gas and get it > 2500rpm or so.
2003 6.0 psd owned two years driven 2 months due to money thrown prior to forums and scangauge 2. Bought truck in chicago drove home. Oil in coolant. Did egr delete oil cooler all gaskets orings etc. New oil filters motorcraft fuel filters .new rad fluod wix trtmnt. Truck started right up. Still had same intermitantstudder as always when cold. Always exp those sysyems until hot then here and there until parked then hot no start or hard long start when hot. Knew something was wrong and waited for it to come to a head well it did in may.
I was driving coming up to a stop sign and truck died like i shut key off. Refired once off ether. Lasted 3 seconds died no restart period didnt even want to just crank crank crank.
ok towed truck i thought it was injector orings. Changed them still nothing . New icp. New cpm. Now have icp of 66 to 120psi cranking.ipr 14.40 koeo up to 84 when cranking. Ive unplugged just get eratic reading ipr stays same. Checked ficm 47to47.5 cranking and koeo. No codes beside for my egr delete and when i unplugged icp. I've been tinkering on this truck for a couple years now still lost bit getting better. I now have driver valve cover off . Its a 2003 .
Truck is a completely stock 2002. New injector o-rings, glow plugs, valve cover harness, and injector cups a year ago... all motorcraft parts. New batteries and starter in the last 6 months.
I've checked the GPR both at the relay and harness got power all the way to the valve cover harness on all 8. Injector buzz test sounds okay as well.
Had a stuck IPR issue a few moths ago that caused a CEL and died while running. Took apart and cleaned the IPR and CEL is gone truck runs great once started and has correct IPR pressures in all RPM ranges.
Truck runs great once it is started and is not sluggish until warm like when it was hard to start when cold with leaking injector o-rings.