After replacing the engine, clutch and pressure plate. Where the brake booster hooks up to create a vacuum, as I now have a very hard to push brake pedal, if indeed that is my problem. The pedal will not go down more than one half inch.
View 5 RepliesBrake pedal whistles and is hard to push. Only happens intermittently. Mechanic wants to put new brake booster on. This would be 3rd brake booster in 9mos. It's gotta be something else. What does the vacuum hose connect to from the check valve; where on the intake manifold? If no PVC valve...then what else? Truck runs fine...no fast idle or rough idle and no hesitation.
View 4 RepliesI need replacement vacuum hose part for my GTI 337. The piece that is disconnected is the hose from the break booster to the intake manifold. It appears to be at a one way valve. I found a picture from a different DIY, that I have circled in green. The red arrow points to the place where it separated. I am not sure if this is a matter of me using a new clamp or buying a new piece of hose from advanced auto parts. The vacuum sets on ECS Tuning and it doesn't appear to be the correct set.
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Was wondering if it is safe to use seafoam through my brake booster vacumm line? If I drip it in SLOW can I still hydrolock my engine?
View 15 RepliesBrake booster failures on 2011 and newer F-250's? I purchased a 2011 last august and the mechanic at the dealer I purchased the truck from stated that he had replaced the vacuum pump, vacuum brake booster and brake master cylinder on the truck just before I bought it as they were bad. Since then I have had two factory Ford vacuum Boosters fail on me. That makes at least three new factory Ford booster assemblies in this truck within the last year. What could be causing the problem? The truck is out of warranty and I am at a loss as to what could be causing them problem. Too much vacuum? Luckily the last two boosters have failed while sitting in a drive through and at a stop light, otherwise I may have had trouble stopping.
View 3 RepliesWant to replace vacuum booster with electric vacuum pump.
View 4 RepliesSo towed the trailer down to a remote lake side spot over the weekend, pretty bad dirt road with lots of breaking bumps. Now pushing the break pedal creates a swooshing noise, and a vibration under the hood around the master cylinder, and the power steering whines a little bit. Took it two several mechanics and 2 think it's the pump, one thinks it's the hydro booster? I tried to bleed any air out by turning the wheel all the way maxed and pushed the brakes, did nut really work, but I did notice that when pressing the brake pedal and turning the steering wheel at the same time, it becomes extremely difficult too turn the wheel, makes me think it's the pump because there is not enough pressure to do both?
View 5 RepliesMy wife was driving my 93 Volvo 940 wagon yesterday, and the brakes suddenly lost power, and brake lights went out. I have heard no hissing from the booster, and I have checked the 10 amp fuse on the relay beneath the instrument panel. Hoping (and praying) it is just one of the relays. I have a meter, but not sure which pins to use to check the relays. Secondary issue: the used radiator I bought did not have the cooling fan sensor, so I have my fan on a toggle inside.
When my wife pulled over because of the brakes, she did not turn the fan on. Yup. Overheated. Now the radiator leaks from the rubber/plastic plug where the sensor goes. Any pliable sealants that could withstand the temps? Cash is in very short supply right now. That is my main issue right now, trying to drive with no brake lights. No ABS light, and no brake light coming on on the dash. Bulbs are good. ABS light does not come on at all with ignition, but bulb tests good. Just hard brakes, and no brake lights.
I have a 2001 ex. 4x4 6.8 v10. I have been having vacuum issues and brake issues lately. My front brakes seem to be sticking, some times they drag some times the don't squeeze when I step on the brake causing uneven wear and pulling when I stop. Also feels like I have no power assist. I also have a vacuum issue with the auto setting on the hubs, they don't engage I have to manually lock them and sometimes my a/c stays on defrost. And my cruise control doesn't work, the light comes on and love done the self check but it doesn't show anything is wrong. Could I have a bad brake booster?
View 5 RepliesI'm taking out the brake booster and i need to know how to take off the booster from the brake pedal...
View 2 RepliesHow do you remove the brake booster rod from the brake pedal? The damn rod won't separate from that plastic housing. I've tried wedging a flathead in there but it's hard to see. I've been fighting with it all evening and finally gave up before I end up breaking it.
Found a DIY that just cut the rod to pull the brake pedal to remove it. I rather not do that as I will be reusing the one I have.
My 97 F-150 (4.6 L) has developed what sounds like a vacuum leak under the driver's side dash somewhere above the pedals. I can't see anything obvious. It changes sound with various positions of the brake pedal, and I can make it stop with hard acceleration for a few seconds. The brake pedal feels the same. I'm assuming the problem is probably my brake booster, right? Or should I be looking elsewhere? If so, how hard is it to replace?
View 3 RepliesI have a 1995 960 station wagon and a brake booster that appears to be leaking. On the passenger side of the firewall. As close as I can tell the leak seems to be right where the gaitor (rubber covering a rod) is.
1995 960 Wagon
i have a 2010 Prius II that had a recall in 2013 on the brake boosted. I had a new booster pump put on and now three years later it has brake fade again. I am told from the dealer that it will cost 1800 to repair. So how long does a recall last.
View 4 RepliesMy brake booster is making noise for a few months now. It works ok and brakes are strong but the noise is there. Any way to quiet it down? Or how much the replacement might cost?
View 1 RepliesThe wife's 2003 GX470 has some brake issues. High pitched whine and ABS and Brake lights went on, so I took it to my local lexus dealer which is 50 miles away. Anyway, the recommendation is to replace "brake booster" and "accumulator" with brake system bleed.
Then, says "may need master cylinder after that, will not know until that is completed
Then goes on to need timing belt, water pump due to miles (97K)
CV boots
Driveline service
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The power brake booster on our 2007 Toyota Highlander is broken and needs to be replaced. We asked our mechanic whether there are any brake-related recalls for our Make/Model/Year, and he said 'no'. Is this just our particular bad luck, or have others experienced similar problems with this SUV? It was scary. My husband was driving on the highway and needed to make a sudden stop due to a traffic slowdown. The brakes didn't respond, and he needed to slam down the brakes several times to get the brakes to work. No warning, the brakes just suddenlt stopped working.
View 8 RepliesHave a rusty brake booster? My truck is an 07' with 55k. Brakes work great, but the booster is rusting all over. Should I replace? The lower steering shaft doesn't look so great either.... I'm trying to attach a picture, but I'm having some issues.
View 3 RepliesWe recently purchased a 2008 RX350 with 61,000 miles. We had a potentially dangerous brake failure when the brake booster unit failed. It was an expensive repair ($1400.) and Lexus has refused to stand behind the product.
View 3 RepliesOur brakes froze the first cold day this winter. My mechanic says that the brake booster valve filled with water and froze. Also, last winter our tiptronic just quit working. We never fixed it. Should we bother to fix it?
View 3 RepliesThe annoying buzzing from the brake booster check valve that comes from the left of the instrument panel when lighly braking (especially when parked or waiting at a traffic light) is a well-known problem, as it was the subject of a Lexus (and Toyota) TSB for 2004-2010 models(see link below to the clublexus link), and has been discussed on many forums for Lexus and other cars.
I just bought a new 2012 RX 350 last month, and within a week it started making this buzzing noise (left instrument panel upon light braking). I took the car to the dealer and without listening they said that they knew it was the brake booster valve (the noise is the rattling of a ball bearing when the valve is malfunctioning). They replaced the valve and the noise went away (the loaner RX they gave me made the noise even worse).
Well, 3 weeks later, the noise has returned!