S-10 :: Blazer - Speedometer Is Jumping Around Sporadically - Tranny Slips At Highway Speed
Mar 7, 2014
So I'm having some fun issues with my S10 Blazer right now.
1992 S10 Blazer 4x4 4.3L TBI, 4-speed auto (not electronic)
ABS Codes- 41, 42, 46, 51, 52, 65, 67, 68
The speedometer is jumping around sporadically.
Gas mileage has dropped astoundingly. Tank has gotten me 80 miles!!!! Poorest MPG ever!!
Also, may be related, the tranny has shifted properly for awhile. Slips from 4th to 3rd when letting off the gas at highway speed, and won't detente shift 4th to 3rd even with the gas completely floored. I had the tranny rebuilt in November and had the detente cable replaced a couple of weeks ago. I'm going to make sure it was adjusted correctly today by using the shop manual method: shift the cable back and ratchet forward with throttle or gas pedal.
As far as the ABS and speedometer go, I'm going to test what I can with the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) and the DRAC module today. With my WinALDL scan tool, I found it is definitely not a speedometer issue because the speed coming from the computer is fluctuating as well.
There is a test in the shop manual to do, but are there any other tests for the VSS or DRAC module? Reason here is because I replaced the VSS after the tranny rebuild in November. So either the DRAC module is acting up or something in the transfer case is screwed.
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2000 neon automatic. My wife was complaining about the rpms jumping around when on the highway going about 65mph. The rpms are around 3000 and jump very slightly up and down and you can hear the engine tone change when it happens. Checked tran fluid and it was low about 3/4 of a quart and added some fluid, changed spark plugs and wires and the problem is still there. Doesn't happen all the time. She says it seems to only do this if the car has been sitting for a few hours or longer. There is an code for the downstream sensor which needs to be changed.
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I've got a "new" Blazer -95 4.3 vin W about a month ago. It has run about 170,000 km.
But now it looks like it was a bad buy, it runs bad. The rpm starts jumping between 1500 - 2500. Suddenly the break and ABS warning lights in dashboard lights up, and sometimes all black out and it stalls.
At first it started acting like this when towing a trailer on the highway, doing 80 km/h. But now it does it at any speed.
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I have a 1991 Toyota Celica ST184 5SFE that has only just started to have a few issues with the Speedometer.
Issue: When driving the Speedometer may jump up and down and when taking foot off the gas it will instantly drop. Happens now and then it may work again.
I have taken the car to the mechanics and they have confirmed that the car uses a Sensor for the Speedometer.
I took my car to an Auto Electrical Mechanic and he did a few tests on the car using a tool that showed the speed of the Sensor when Driving and he has confirmed that the Sensor is working correctly as he can see the speed while driving.
He mentioned that there is likely to be an issue within the Dash and possibly a loose cable or a bad resistor.
How to troubleshoot this on the Dash and how to remove it correctly without damaging anything.
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Have just purchased a 02 prius with a transmission that slips. Would this be a electric motor problem or actual tranny problem?
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04 F-150 2WD 5.4L AUTO Extended cab
I had my tranny rebuilt under warranty at about 70K and I'm now at 167K. When it was rebuilt (by Ford) it still had a slip feel when I picked it up. Rode the mechanic around the yard and he felt it. Dead stop and take off while turning. Like from a stop sign. He took it back and found a sensor/module/something that was the culprit. Seems I remember they found it with a computer? Is there a computer/reader that will diagnose a tranny?
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Recently I had a battery replacement and a wheel barring replaced. Once I picked up my car the speedometer started jumping. I took it back into the Sears auto place that did the work. They checked it out and then told me this was an electrical thing and that they weren't at fault. After about another day the 'check engine light' came on.
I recently moved so looked up an actual garage in TN that had good reviews and took the car in. They hooked it up to a computer and told me the speed sensor chip was bad. Since the car is a manual they said that it was ok to drive it but they wouldn't recommend that for too long while I saved money. I have seen lots of posts online about doing this yourself. I by NO means am a car person but I have seen that you can buy the speed sensor part pretty cheap online.
My questions are: Is the garage charging me an arm and a leg? Would it be a recommendation to buy the part online and then take it in to be fixed? And if so how do I know which ones are ok for my 2001 Honda accord?
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I have a 2001 Jeep Wranger (4cl) automatic that has hated highways. When i drive on the highway, after about 4 hrs, my jeep decides to slip into neutral. So i initially have to hit the gas pedal to make it down shift and then it seems okay but of course after about an hour it does the same thing. Hence a long ride becomes much longer. I usually pull off and let it the engine cool down and that seems to work and i can resume the highway once again. I have had the transmission looked at and a transmission flush done. I have been told that i do not need a transmission but the mechanic has no idea why this occurs.
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i have a 97 mountaineer v8 aod,for the last 2 winters transmission slips when cold out on the highway, only when temp outside gets 30 or colder, pull over let it run 5-10 min runs great at 65 for about 8-10 miles then same thing, I put new filters twice and new fluid,i have put over 40,000 miles on it since it started doing this, it doesn't do this in the summer...
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I have a 1999 Chevy Blazer LS 4WD 95K miles that had an incident in 2008 where the oil pressure dropped to zero while driving down the highway. I immediately pulled over and had the vehicle towed to a dealership. They pulled the oil pan off and let me know the lower part of the motor was "toast." (crankshaft had turned blue due to heat from no oil.) Mysteriously it has oil pressure now, why that is. It started last time I tried about 4 years ago.
I dearly loved this vehicle. It was first car I bought and paid for myself and I planned on repairing it one day. It's been sitting in My garage for the last 8 years. Recently, my daily driver died and I was faced with repairing the Blazer or buying a new vehicle. Since I don't know how well the Blazer has fared sitting in the garage all these years, I decided repair wasn't worth it at this time for a vehicle I needed to be dependable and I just bought a new vehicle.
So here's the thing. I kept the Blazer really clean. Washed it all the time, no damage, Regular oil changes, the works. It still smells like a new car inside. I really don't want to see it get crushed and I'd like to see it go to a good home. It might need more work than a new motor since it's been sitting so long, but I can't imagine it would be more than someone mechanically inclined could handle. I'd get a new engine, but I don't have the cash and I need the garage space.
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Okay....I have an 01 blazer 6 cylinder 4.3. For a while it was missing fairly bad until I had the distributor replaced and the problem went away for about 2 months. Now it seems to have the same problem again so I am wondering if that wasn't the real problem. Here is what is going on. The tac needle bounces and it feels like the engine is misfiring. When I am driving on the highway sometimes the CEL starts flashing. Sometimes it stops and sometimes it doesn't. Plus now it feels like when it changes gears it's lurching. It only does that sometimes. The odd part is there seems to be no distinguishable pattern to the lurching. I think the misfire could be just the timing needs to be adjusted.
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What would be considered normal variation in idle speed? VCDs shows my Phaeton idle speed jumping between 680 rpm and 720 rpm fairly rapidly. I feel like the car is hunting too much at idle causing excessive vibration. There are no codes from the engine or transmission. Am I looking for a problem that isn't there?
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I'm experiencing a serious problem with the tranny on my V10 TDI: When the engine's warmed up it sometimes starts slipping and generally keeps on slipping, even when cruising on the highway, until the engine is cooled off again. In thread [URL] .... I read something about a "faulty solenoid valve inside the tranny". Could this be the cause?
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My 93 with 210K miles threw a new one at me the other day. Not 1 mile from work with AC running, it started stumbling a bit at around 40MPH. I just assumed it was the AC cycling and the Van was in OD. Dropped into D and drove her on home.
Well this morning was round 2.... got about 2 miles from home and it started stumbling again (no AC this time). Just happened to look down at my digital dash and the speed was jumping all over, finally settling on 0 MPH. I got about a mile down the interstate and it suddenly reactivated and displayed 70mph.... smooth as silk.
OK, so I know that the rear diff. has a sensor for ABS, and obviously a pulse wheel on the diff. Is this sensor the input for speed? From other makes, I understand the pulse train input is "conditioned" in another device ( hardware) which then outputs to the dash display.
Based on these assumptions, I'm going to assume the crazy speed variation was playing hell with the ECU. When it settled on 0 mph it was happy again. Can't just be a display issue as there would have been no stumble. Getting ready to drive her about 3.5 hours this weekend to go trout fishing.... obviously the cruise won't work but otherwise it appears to function WITHOUT the speed input.
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I have a 2011 Corolla LE with the automatic transmission. When traveling at a constant highway speed (i.e. 60 mph), the tachometer will start jumping around. It will jump up than down by anywhere from 200 rpm to 1000 rpm. It only lasts a few seconds then returns to normal. The dealer is saying that is just the electronic controlled transmission selecting the correct gear. I have never heard of this in any other car.
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I have a 1997 Oldsmobile 88 (174K miles, owned only by my father-in-law and then me) with which I am experiencing a hesitation problem from time to time at highway speed. My mechanic has taken the car on several highway test drives throughout the last two days, and he has been unable to reproduce the problem. Furthermore, he has done a full diagnostic test and found no problems with the fuel system, ignition system, or anything else.
Here are the conditions under which the problem occurs:
---Attempting to accelerate gradually at highway speed (usually from 50-60 mph), but WITHOUT pushing the gas pedal down so far as to cause the transmission to downshift
---Engine fully warmed up (temp gauge at 200 F or just below)
---Occurs more often when I have been driving for at least 1-2 hours
The condition is as follows:
---Car lurches/surges noticeably and does not accelerate
---Speedometer needle reflects the lurching by fluctuating up and down about 1 to 2 mph
---Accelerates well if I step down hard enough to cause the transmission to downshift, or stops surging if I lift off the gas pedal
---NO Check Engine light at any time
Some history on the car and corrective actions taken:
---June 2009: My mother-in-law was driving the car about 6 hours into our trip and it consistently hesitated between 50 and 55 mph with the Check Engine light on for the last 30 miles or so of our trip. The next day, we took the car to the dealer where my in-laws had their cars serviced (note the past tense here), where they told us that "there's probably something wrong inside the transmission" and suggested that we replace the transmission with a new one. This transmission is the second new one the car has had (replaced the first time at 95K miles), meaning that this transmission had less than 80K miles at the time. We took the car to a local shop at the referral of a friend, and this mechanic suggested we try flushing the transmission fluid and replacing the filter to see if that would fix the problem before we started talking about replacing the whole transmission. This worked, and we were glad that we did not have to get rid of the car. Did not notice any more problems with this for over a year.
---May 2010: Experienced engine misfire, had spark plug wires replaced. Problem solved.
---March 2011: First noticed my current problem. Had fuel filter replaced (it was probably a little overdue) and had the mechanics do a fuel system cleaning.
---April 2011: Problem still occurs.
---Had throttle body thoroughly cleaned, which fixed a slight sticking in the gas pedal.
---Replaced spark plugs myself. Car running more smoothly overall, but the hesitation still occurs.
---Inspected all three ignition coil packs myself. Top coil pack had some rust on the poles, which caused the resistance to measure as zero. Cleaned most of the rust off the poles, after which all three packs bench tested at 6.23 (with 20000 ohm setting on multimeter). Car runs even more smoothly overall, but hesitation persists.
At this point, my mechanic and I are both stumped as to what could be causing the hesitation problem. My only thought right now is to try replacing the one coil pack that had rust on it, since a pack with a fault I can see may have others inside that I can't see, and maybe something like this is flaking out on an intermittent basis.
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Took car in for normal service (69,000 miles) and had Tranny Fluid Service completed. When I took the car home I noticed some slight tranny slipping while accelerating up to highway speeds (so assuming 4th to 5th gear, maybe 5th to 6th). Took it back to the dealer and after a week it had a new transmission. Took it home and it slipped again, also only accelerating to highway speeds. Took it back and they told me they reset the computer that monitors my driving patterns. OK, not exactly sure what that means. So, now driving to work this morning it slipped (or maybe hesitated is a better word) again when accelerating from about 55 mph to 60 or so. Car has never had issues like this before, gas mileage is still in the 30 mpg range.
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What would cause a trouble code PO 300 on a 1998 Chevy Blazer. The truck will run good sometimes. When it runs bad it will stumble at low speed acceleration. It will run fine wide open. Dealer looked at it and thought it was egr vale. I replaced it and it runs a little better but still stumbles.
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I have an '01 Blazer that's had a strange vibration for some time now. Here are the particulars:
It's a low frequency rumbling It happens only between 45 and 60 mph It tends to come and go It usually starts after about 5 minutes of driving first thing in the day It generally goes away after awhile and may not happen the rest of the day It happens only when I'm accelerating or maintaining speed on an incline It happens when it's hot, cold, wet or dry
What I've done lately: replaced all the brake pads replaced one rear rotor and caliper slide pins (one pin was frozen and the rotor was badly worn Checked the U-joints, which are sound
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i have a 1998 chevy blazer 4.3 4wd v6 about 130000 miles on it. There is no check engine light on at all. Some reason it takes long time for it to get up to speed.and i can't figer out why that is i did replace spark plugs in it..
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I have a 1998 blazer 4x4... I had a issues with the car before and I had to turn the idle screw up until I fixed my problem. I now fixed my problem and I need to know what my idle rpm should be at.
After I fixed the original problem after about a day of driving I had a P0507 Idle speed High/Low. I turned the set screw down and lowered my rpm. After about 5min of driving the code went away on its own.
About 1 week later I am now getting the P0507 again and now it has a buddy. P0446 Evap System.
Questions what would my idle rpm be? Can the high rpm cause the EVAP code as well.
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