My son called me today to pick him up. His 98 S10 would shift into gear but wouldn't go forward or into reverse. New clutch 6 months ago, hoping something simple like low gear oil or worse?
View 1 RepliesMy low miles (under 50k) 1999 Ranger has a 5-speed manual transmission. One morning, I could not move it. The shift lever shifted, but the gears were locked. No forward, no reverse, and it wouldn't roll in neutral. Eventually, I popped the clutch, and, with a loud BANG! restored itself.
Background: I had rolled the car up tot the curbing in my driveway, so the wheels touched, then shut it off (in gear) and finally set the emergency brake. I'm guessing that this caught the gears in a way that caused the problem.
Yes, it's running just fine now. What happened?
Okay so I bought this car and a week later tranny wouldn't shift out of first when I would slow down or at least it would take a min. I would hit 4or 5 grand then it would jolt me back. It wouldn't do it every time though. I bought it to go to college drove it the 900 miles on the highway and had no problems except right before I left town but then fine. All I did was change the tranny fluid before I left which I can confidently say I don't think has been changed before that. stunk bad bud no metal.
Alright now I'll go jump in the car to go to class and it will not leave first. If I put it in the manual mode it thinks it's in third but clearly if in doing 15 mph at 4000 rpm that's not the case. It doesn't do it every time. Kinda hit or miss. After driving for a min it usually shifts. Sometimes I make it the two miles without it shifting though. Also sometimes It will shift but once I slow down it won't shift out of first again.
I have seen a code for torque management since I bought the car. The check engine light is on now but I haven't seen the torque code since I change the MassES. that's not to say it's not still there. I used a different handheld computer for the check engine light the last time I did it and I could have missed it because I was unfamiliar with it. I have put a mass airflow sensor, battery, alternator, and changed the tranny fluid since I have owned the car. drained 3L of tranny fluid and put 3L back in. Oh and the last time I checked the light it said lean in bank 1 but I was assuming that was an unrelated issue.
I have a 1966 Ford Mustang 2 + 2 (289 cu. in.) V8 with four barrel carburetor. It has more than 170K miles on it. It starts right away, but when I shift the automatic transmission to reverse or forward it dies out every time. I changed the fuel pump and the fuel filter, but the problem persists. I have had this car for almost 46 years now and I cannot bear to part with it.
View 2 RepliesFive months ago I purchased a Saturn with 60,000 miles. Yesterday upon leaving my driveway it wouldn't shift out of first gear. Turned around , put it in the garage & tried to backup, put it in reverse & the vehicle would not move and the tranny made a loud whine. For the past two weeks the tranny made a loud " clunk " when it shifted into second, also on the highway it wouldn't shift into high gear & was running at 2500 rpm. Is this an electronic issue or more ?
View 1 RepliesI have a 95 F250 with 7.5 and E4OD. I was towing my Jeep and trailer out for the weekend a few months back (its been parked since) and heard some noise coming from the trailer. So at a stop light I put it in park with the engine running for a second, went to put it back into drive and it hasn't gone back into drive since. Reverse works perfectly. Fortunately I was able to back up onto the center divide, unload my Jeep and back the truck onto the trailer and tow home with my buddies Chevy. Anyways, its been dead since. Where I can start to look? None of the forward gears work at all.
View 13 RepliesI recently bought my '05 Elantra from a small dealership and I'm starting to see a problem with it. If I shift into reverse and then go back into drive, the car doesn't go forward at all. I have to mess with the gear shift a bit to get the car moving. I'm pretty sure it's a bad linkage. The dealership I bought it from said it desperately needed motor mounts when they got it so they replaced 2 of them. I'm sure the problems are related. I can't find any information on replacing it myself though.
View 1 RepliesI have just recently acquired an 01 Accent with the 1.6L and have had a few problems with it. It has about 112,000 miles on it and at about 109,000 it had the following services performed by the previous owner (reputable shop did the work)
-New battery
-New timing belt kit
-New water pump
-New valve cover gasket
-New plugs
-New belts
-New front pads
-New front rotors
-New rear wheel cylinders
-New front CV axles
-New tires all around
-Alignment
Now since I got it with about 111,000 miles on it, it ran and drove great until I had to put a new alternator on it as well as having to take the center console and automatic shift lever out to repair the wires for the O/D button. Car wouldn't shift into high gear. The problem I am having now is the car will crank but it will not start. Not even a sputter. I drove the car to and from work the day previous and then went out and started it to go to work in the morning and it started fine and ran fine for a minute or two then it just died like I turned the key off. No spitting or sputtering like it was running out of gas just died completely. Checked a few fuses and such and really not sure where to go from here because I don't have a code reader and don't wanna just throw parts at it, I would rather troubleshoot the problem.
I have a problem with my 1998 Chevrolet Blazer. It won't go in reverse, but will go into gear going forward. I don't know whats wrong or what the cause is.
View 2 RepliesI just purchased an Automatic 2009 Camry LE with 64k 2weeks ago, and noticed that twice it felt like it was losing power on an incline so I bought the fuel system cleaner to see if that worked (seaform). Tonight I go to park it on a street with a slight incline. As I shift to reverse to line the car up, it rolled forward. It shocked me bc there was a parked car right in front of me. I tried putting it in Drive/Park etc then back in Reverse it still rolled forward. I put my foot on the brake and gas at the same time to try to reverse but not wanting to give it too much gas bc I was scared it might fly forwards into the car in front of me (still rolled forward). Finally I was so close to the car in front of me I gave it a try and it still rolled and bumped the truck in front of me but with enough gas it went into reverse.
View 6 RepliesI have had my manual 2014 four months now and still can't get used to the fact, that to engage reverse you have to move the stickshift FORWARD into the same spot as first gear. I have had a half dozen near wrecks because of this.
View 5 RepliesWe have a 2001 Santa Fe. Very recently it began hesitating when put in gear going forward or reverse. Once the gas pedal is pressed, there's a delay of up to 2 seconds as RPM climbs, then the vehicle jerks into gear. It seems to run fine otherwise. Mileage is approx 128 k. Maintained very well by the same mechanic until very recently. Internet searches have gotten answers of use fuel additive, install some computer patch, fix an oxygen sensor, change tranny fluid and flush tranny, rebuild tranny.
View 2 RepliesMy cousin has 1999 f-150 v8 automatic. Anytime you take it out of park you get forward gear. Was fine when parked just started happening on startup.
View 1 RepliesEarly 2000 F250
Originally the truck would not go into any forward gear, but had reverse all day long. So I had a rebuild kit ordered (new bushings, seals, frictions, steels, a washer and flat bearing kit, a sprak kit, and the od piston)
After rebuilding it, taking my sweet time double checking everything, it will now go into forward gear but not reverse. So I dropped the pan. The small 3 bolt plate was torqued to spec. When I got to the third bolt in the smaller section of the valve body (upper valve body) I heard a click like maybe a valve returned to its place but I'm not sure. I removed the valve body and accumulator and all the valves were free and had tension. When I had it apart the first time one valve stuck for a split second but I never could get it to stick again.
Finding nothing there I uninstalled the tranny and took the barrel apart all the way down to the L/R piston and could not find anything wrong.
After the build and me running the truck for about 10-20 min there was metal on the magnet (part of the reason I took it all back apart) however I could not find anything worn or chewed up. Could have been the tc I prefilled with 2 quarts in stead of filling all the way.
When I initially rebuilt the 4r100 I took apart the pump to replace the bushing and seal but did not take apart the valves. I've heard the pump is directly related to reverse but I'm not sure. Could something gone wrong in the pump when I took it apart? How would I know? If I new all parts of the reverse system I could then test them.
The gear shift works fine, and we lifted the hood and saw that the mech. arm IS working when we shift. However, the van will not move into any gear. won't go forward, reverse, etc... it acts like it isn't shifting.
i was driving down the highway, and noticed it wasn't accelerating and stepped on the gas.. .and nothing. I stopped the van, put in park, turned it off. Started it again, and put in D and wouldn't go, just engine revved. then put in reverse and same thing... didn't move but engine revved.
I've got a 2003 Accent and my automatic transmission went out, no reverse and the only forward gear is 1st. Was thinking of pulling it and swapping it for a used, but I have been reading on here the many, many automatic transmission problems of the accent and my next thought was to just rebuild it myself. But now I'm thinking more along the of a swap from auto to manual, as I don't want to have to rebuild a transmission that is only going to have to be rebuilt again anyway. As far as stuff like the clutch pedal, linkages, gear shifter, I can get those pretty easily. Does the Accent have a hydraulic clutch?
View 2 RepliesI have a 98 Mazda Protege-Automatic, it has the following problem:
- When i press the gas it takes about 2-3 seconds to feel it and start moving.
- at the beginning of a drive, it is very heavy to go and some time i have to reach 4000 rpm to get it move. after running for some time it is better.
- some time it sticks to a specific gear (usually 1st or 2nd) and does not shift forward??
Is it the clutch or the transmission or something else? how much it may cost to fix?
Reverse band broke in my C4, I took it apart enough to get the rear band out and then reassembled. Everything to my knowledge was seated correctly and the front pump seated flush with the case when I reinstalled (which is supposedly a sign that it is all seated correctly). I adjusted the bands to spec and replaced the vacuum modulator and torque converter. These were the only things replaced besides the reverse/low band. Vac modulator was replaced to original (yellow band) as I was running an adjustable before. TC was replaced just because I did not the last time I had the trans rebuilt in 2003....decided to go ahead and R&R.
I got everything assembled, filled up with fluid and no leaks. I start it up and once i finished topping it off, the truck moves forward in every gear... including park! It also seems that I'm missing a shift detent. I have P, R, N, D, 2 but no 1. I disconnected the shift linkage and tried manually shifting from the trans and have the same issue.
I did not open up the valve body, just unbolted and replaced. When you start it up, it doesn't jump forward (while in park) but when you rev it up it sounds like the motor is under load. I've consulted my Haynes C4 book and an extensive google search and no way...
My 2001 F250 5.4 has started to make a screeching sound. It only happens when it is in gear (auto) moving forwards or in reverse, and increases in pitch relative to engine speed rather than road speed, and is much more noticeable under mild to moderate acceleration. Maybe I actually mean transmission input speed?
When simply maintaining road speed, it is almost silent. Anyway, if I drop it into neutral while driving, the sound stops, and starts again when I put it back into gear.
From the drivers seat and with the windows closed, it sounds as though it is coming from the engine bay at steering column height, although this is really tough to gauge while actually looking where I am going. With windows open, it comes from both sides of the vehicle.
1st thought is tranny......
2nd thought is a water pump bearing, although there are no apparent cooling problems or leaks.
3rd thought is the alternator bearing, although there are no charging problems.
I say alternator because I recently changed the serpentine belt and noticed that the alternator made a very faint screech-like sound when spun without the belt on it. The main screech was there before I changed the belt. Maybe it gets really loud under load?
So I'm kinda scratching my bean and wondering what expensive piece of mechanics I'm going to shell out for next. If it's #2 or #3, I can do those myself, but if it's #1.... it likely means more money than I have to spare.
I did wonder about removing the serpentine belt and driving a very short distance (end of the driveway and back) to see if I can remove the pulleys, tensioner or other belt driven parts from the equation. Maybe this is not such a smart idea. I'm somewhat at a loss right now.
Buying a vr4 this weekend with dr650 turbos... The only problem with car is when you shift into reverse it grinds and won't go into gear, I'm thinking its the reverse synchro?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2011 Chevy Malibu, with a little over 100k miles on it. A couple weeks ago it started acting a little funny when I would shift into reverse after starting it after sitting for a while. I thought it might have been due to temperature as it didn't do it after the car had warmed up or when it was warmer out.
Yesterday it started acting up really bad, will not shift out of first gear, and will not shift into reverse, and the check engine light came on. I was able to get it up to O'Reilly's to get the codes. It came back with 2 separate codes.
P0700 - Transmission Control Module (TCM) Requested MIL IlluminationP0776 - Clutch Pressure Control (PC) Solenoid - Stuck Off
The guy there seemed to think that the second code was probably caused by the first one, and most likely the TCM needs replaced. It makes sense to me, but before I head down this path I want to get some input, as it is a little over $300 for the part.