I've been working with a friend who has a problem with his 96 Isuzu Hombre 2.2L (same as S10). Runs fine, then intermittently cuts off. He pulls to the side of the road, and tries to start it. It cranks but won't fire. He waits about 10 minutes or so, then he starts it up just fine. No computer codes.
View 14 RepliesI have a 99 Isuzu Rodeo V6 - Auto Trans. The car operates fine, however when driving long distances - say 150 - 200 miles if I stop and try to restart within 5 minutes it will not start. It will attempt a start but choke out - and sometimes not even that - it just has the low click of the starter. Temp. gauge registers normal - not sure if it's an overheating issue - but nothing indicates that. Car will eventually restart (or at least has to date) after a 15-20 minute rest period. I had some issues early last year - had the EGR valve replaced, thought that had solved it..
View 9 RepliesAbout two months ago I noticed a transmission-y rattle coming from my 1982 Isuzu P'up (diesel). The rattle wouldn't start right away, you had to drive the truck for 4 or 5 miles before it would kick in. And it wasn't always there, it would sort of go away and come back intermittently, although this pattern repeated every time I drove the car. The noise was present in every gear, including 4th.
I took it to a transmission guy, who claimed to have heard it coming from the engine, not the transmission, while it was up on the lift. Later I took it to another mechanic, who insisted it was in fact the transmission, and that the transmission guy didnt know what he was talking about.
Stuck in a contradictory limbo, I drove the car around for a few days, trying to make notes on the problem.
And then the car had an electrical problem, which kept me from driving it for about 2 weeks. The guy who did the electrical doesn't speak english very well, but as I understand it he fixed something that recharges the glow plugs? Or recharges the battery? Not sure.
But here's the thing: The noise is gone. I've been driving the car for two weeks now, taken a longish (80 miles round trip) freeway drive and I keep waiting for it to come back. But no noise! So what's going on??? Where did my noise go?
Once I had driven for about 15 minutes and the truck set for about 5 minutes. Then it would not start. Another time, I drove for about 20 minutes and it cut off while driving in a parking lot. I have had 2 different shops take a look at it and they cannot duplicate the problem. They have run a bunch of diagnostics and tried their selves but it always starts for them.
View 2 RepliesI was wondering my buick a 1995 lasbre it cranks up fine and the engine light comes on and off when i start driving it cuts off and cranks right back up people say its the crank sensor...
View 1 RepliesI have a 98 Isuzu Rodeo I have been trying to fix a problem with the AC. It seems to run fine when idling, but when driving it starts to run poorly. I have manifold gauges, hooked them up to the low & high pressure ports earlier this morning. Static pressure was 97 on low port, and 100 on high port. Outside temperature was 75, but I don't know what the humidity was. I had the windows closed, AC on coldest, fan turned on full blast, recirculating.
I stuck a probe thermometer into the center vent, and after about 10 minutes the air was blowing at 40 degrees F. The compressor was spinning, and low pressure was 40 and high pressure was 225. I ran it like this for about 15 minutes, no problems. Then I wedged the throttle with a pencil and that pushed the RPMs up to a hair over 2000. Then the compressor started shutting off, then on, but not in any kind of rhythm that I could detect. The low pressure would drop to 23, the high pressure would jump up to 400; then high pressure would plummet to around 220.
Engine coolant level is normal, both fans are blowing, K & N air filter just got cleaned, relay seems good. The check engine light was on with a reading about the EGR valve, which I have cleaned. The engine light has not come back on. I know this is a lot of detail, but I'm trying to be thorough. I'm handy and mechanically inclined, but out of my depth at this level of AC troubleshooting.
As stated in the title, I have a 2000 Isuzu rodeo s fwd v6 SUV. While driving on the road recently I lost my speedometer, odometer, and cruise control. The odometer is digital and I can still read the display when the car is on, however the number never changes. There is a little over 185 K on the odometer. I did some research on my own and figured the problem was my vehicle speed sensor (VSS). I thus bought one, changed it without problems, yet my problem persists.
Now when I drive for a bit, and come to a stop my vehicle sometimes stalls. Not all the time though. I figure even though the VSS is good (I changed the second one I put in again for a factory VSS and still I get no change) maybe the signal isn't getting to the ECM. What are my other options for the issue? Could it be the cluster behind the console? Is there a speedometer cable in this vehicle that could be causing this problem? Is there some little selenoid somewhere that is bad and is causing these problems?
My old Trooper, which is painted like the Merry Prankster bus, has had a series of electrical/ignition problems. It began earlier this winter with an occasional engine miss and also occasional a failure to start. My mechanic has replaced the distributor, the coil and the ignition control module (twice). Each time it runs fine for a couple of days and then starts acting up again. It is currently sitting in my driveway with zero spark coming out of the coil. The year of my Trooper is 1990.
View 3 RepliesI just changed the fuel pump on my 98 Isuzu Rodeo and now it wont start. The pump is getting power because i can hear it humming. Fuel is getting to the fuel rail, I checked the the shrader valve. I tested the battery and its fully charged but it wont start.
View 19 RepliesI have cleaned the fuel injectors, put in new spark plugs and new spark plug wires. What else I can do. The only time it starts easily is when it's very hot. If I leave it off for just 5 minutes, it will start up quickly. And a few times, when it is dead cold it will start on the first turn. All other times I have to crank it for what seems like minutes. I'm killing batteries and starters on a regular basis.
View 2 RepliesWe have had the TDI for exactly a year now, and have 33 000 km's on it already. In the past 2 months, we've noticed the engine cutting off for a second while driving. It can do this a few times during one drive and it does it at any time, not related to the temperature of the engine; it has done it wether it's cold or warmed up.
Brought it to the dealership today for regular maintenance, they explained to me that it was normal and it's called a regeneration process for the emission system. They couldn't tell me the frequency that this could happen. For our car, it happens at least 2-4 times a week even a few times within a drive. I don't know if it was the same thing but I was passing a car last sunday and while accelerating, the engine just shut off for that second and all of a sudden a big cloud of gray smoke came out the back.
My kia runs great then cuts off during driving, It starts up with no problem and may run with no prblem for some time. I have replaced the fuel pump and filter, had it diagnostic, the only code that shows is the oxygen sensor. It also have had the jiffy lube fuel system cleaning. any clues to what may be happening, the vehicle has 150k miles.
View 1 RepliesI have an F-150 with a 5.4L EFI and A/T. For the past two days while driving along the engine just cuts out. There is no chugging or sputtering. It just dies. When it happens, I place the trans in Neutral while still rolling along and it starts right up.
I had suspected it might have been a bad eec relay and connector that I had trouble with in the past, but I changed that all yesterday and the problem happened again today.
I just bought a volvo 240, cuts off and stalls while driving. Wondering what hose this is.
View 1 RepliesThe other day I got into my car and it started fine. After driving about a block it cut out. All the dash lights come on but it makes a funny sound when turned over and doesn't start. I tried jumping it but it was no different
View 2 RepliesI have a 1994 Celica 1.8L ST which cut off on me while driving. I have been trying to troubleshoot the problem. Here's what I've done so far:
Originally after the engine would cut off I could get it to start again, but there came a point when it wouldn't start. I ended up replacing the ignition coil, and immediately the car fired up again and was running. However, the check engine light was now on and the engine had far less power and was running very rough. Nevertheless, the car was still working and would no longer cut off. Thus, I took the car to Precision Auto Tune to get a diagnostic test done, and they told me the distributor was bad.
I then purchased a new distributor and replaced the old one. Immediately the check engine light disappeared so I took the car out for a test drive and it ran perfectly; yet, after ten minutes, the engine suddenly cut off while driving down the road. After coasting the car to a place to park, it refused to start again. I left it overnight, tried starting it the next day and it randomly started. It ran for 10 minutes again in park before cutting off again. Since then, i thought the new distributor was faulty and exchanged it for another, but the engine still cuts off after running and refuses to start again. However, when it refuses to start, if I install the old "faulty" distributor, the car starts without a problem, but the check engine light also appears.
I am having problems with my 94 Caprice. It will start right up when cold. After driving for awhile (not too long) then engine cuts off. Electric power is on but the engine is off (like it ran out of gas, or the gas was shut off). At first, it would take a few minutes for the engine to restart. Now that I have replaced the Fuel Pump Relay, it will start right back up, but when driving it still cuts off.
Could it be the ECM? Where is it located? Is it a "do-it-yourself" job?
What other problems might it be (besides the fuel pump)? Could it be the power distribution box under the hood? I also have fog lamps hooked up to the panel that wont work. The switch light comes on but the lamps do not. I am going to try to hook the (+) up to the battery and see if the lamps get power, if so, the box is fried (or the stud) But if the main power distribution wasnt working would the car still run, start? If the stud is damaged would it cause the gas to shut off?
I have a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan that is having multiple electrical issues. The problem first starts to show with the instrument panel needles going all the way to the right and coming back to the left. Some of the instrument lights stay lit. Then either in the next few minutes or days, the engine will shut off while driving. I can wait 30 seconds and sometimes it will start. After this sequence occurs, when I turn the key, the instrument lights will come on for a millisecond and then the engine will not start at all. I take it into the dealer and they say that the battery is severely discharged. They charge up the battery and the problem goes away for 1500-3000 miles. Of course, the dealer does not know what is causing the problem.
It seems like one of the issues could be a defective ignition switch, but what I can't figure out is what is causing the battery to severely discharge?I have removed the BMC fuse, waited 30 seconds and this would allow the vehicle to start, but I have stopped trying this approach because it does not remedy the situation long term.
I've got a 2010 Camry. I've had it since new and it's been pretty well maintained. Recently, I've been having an issue where it cuts like it wants to stall out when I stop after driving.
The idle will also surge, but it's a small surge, from like 750 rpm to 1,000 and then back to 750. Last night after driving, it dropped to around 500rpm for s second and I thought it was going to stall, but it didn't.
I love the car, so I'm hoping it's not a serious issue. 6 speed manual with about 130,000 miles. Other than this and a small exhaust leak, it's running great.
Has happened twice. No check engine light, no code. Lights and electronics stay on, beeps like the door is open, shuts off and I am able to turn it right back on. Definitely do not want this happening on the highway. Don't have any other issues with idle, etc..
View 11 RepliesSo, my brother has an 01' VW Jetta 2.8 VR6 with a 120k miles on it. He was recently driving around 50mph when the engine cut out, he lost all power and all the lights on the dash came on. He didn't get any loud bang when it happened, it just cut out. He tried to restart the car but heard the starter try and nothing else.
He got it towed to a garage who said they suspected it might be a timing chain but they couldn't say for sure until they started poking around. He doesn't recall getting the loud "marbles in an" noise when the chain is about to go. They were quoting around $4k to replace the engine. Being as my brother is a poor student this isn't something he can do, plus he'd already replaced the radiator, tires and all that and I want to verify what is wrong with it.