The entire cooling system has been overhauled; including heater core replaced 3 times, new radiator, new theromostat 2 times, new water pump, new radiator hose. Truck continues to overheat into the red quickly with or without a/c on.
1996 chevy s10 blazer 4x4 4.3 liter (1 owner).
We have base line 2004 Cavalier coupe that has about 130K miles on it. It is currently doing two things: When the car is idling the engine begins to overheat, and the air conditioning goes awol. As soon as forward movement begins again, the temperature goes back to acceptable levels, and the air conditioning becomes cool again. Since these problems occur simultaneously, it leads me to think they might be related.
View 2 RepliesWhen I turn the key over to start the vehicle, the clock resets to 1:00, the back latch clicks and the car kind of makes a grinding sound but not like a churn as if it wanted to start. I don't know if it is just a dying battery or if it would be something else but my car will not start at all.
View 1 RepliesOkay I am having a problem with my A/C in my Blazer I've had my compressor replaced finally got all of my leaks fixed and replaced all the visible vacuum hoses and still without by passing my heater core I have no Air Conditioning. It just keeps blowing out hot air. Why my Air Conditioner is working. I really like my blazer but after having invested a little over 600.00 into just getting the A/C up and going with no luck is just getting frustrating. I am considering selling it and getting a truck. I would like to keep it if I can get the A/C up and going but I don't want to have to invest a whole lot more money into it.
View 1 Replies96 chevy blazer overheated did compression test number 3 was low on compression. And number 3 misfire.
View 1 RepliesMy 1992 chevy k1500 blazer full size is having trouble shifting from 1st and 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. I reset the linkage it did fine for a day and now it's doing the same thing but it almost goes into neutral while shifting into some gears. And seems to lack power, the 92 doesn't have cyanoids and the transmission was redone 2 years ago when I got the truck. Could this have anything to do with the fuel filter? I know the transmission isn't bad. The Rpms are shooting up way too high.
View 1 RepliesI have a problem with my 1998 Chevrolet Blazer. It won't go in reverse, but will go into gear going forward. I don't know whats wrong or what the cause is.
View 2 Replies1999 Chevy Blazer, 4.3L V6, 173,447 miles
Working on his 1999 Blazer that he just bought, it has an electrical problem.....the gauges are inop, and the engine wont shut down and the 4X4 wont engage unless the headlight switch is turned on and in some instances the high beams must be on. We have replaced the high beam multi switch, the headlight switch and the ignition module. We suspect that it might be a bad ground or the interior light module.
We just replaced the engine the other day but the problem existed prior to the motor swap.
I have a 97 chevy blazer, that has no headlights. the daytime running lights, dash and marker lights all work but not the headlights or high beams?
View 4 RepliesI recently moved to a place in the Caribbean that has very steep paved & unpaved roads, lots of potholes. I have a 2002 Chevy blazer, has 4wd, hi & low (not automatic 4wd). What is the best way to drive these roads? Someone told me its ok to leave the truck in 4wd when on "the country" roads even though they are paved but the Chevy manual says not to do this. I have been putting it in second to go down the hills. Still figuring out up hill. I'm not used to driving this terrain and want to learn it right.
View 5 RepliesI have a 98 chevy blazer that the dash lights and interment cluster (including odometer) only works at night when u turn on the headlights by the switch. And the truck starts sometimes. I placed a piece of tape over the sensor on the dash for the auto lights( this made the dash, interment, odometer work) but now truck will not start. I've been told its the ignition switch.
View 1 RepliesI have an 2006 GLS 3.3 with 26,700 miles on it, any time I turn the A/C on the temp gauge shoots all the way up to the red. When I turn the A/C off it drops fast right back down to the middle. No radiator leaks, my coolant level is great in the reservoir, and I already looks and my radiator fan turns on anytime I turn the A/C on. I live in AZ and it's been 100+ outside and going to stay that way for the next few months. What might be causing this. Bad ground? Bad temp sensor?
View 3 RepliesCoolant overheat warning. Luckily, was moments from home so pulled in and stopped for about 6 hours. Checked coolant on level surface...looks ok. Started it up and drove around neighborhood. Car steadily climbs to 200 degrees F and then will sit there for around 5 minutes. As oil temperature breaks the halfway point, the coolant temp begins to steadily rise again until it hits just below to overheat mark for a couple minutes, then finally pushes through into the red.
Parked car overnight.
Drove to VW repair shop. Exact same results driving there. Temp increases from ignition to 200 degrees over a couple minutes then stops for 5+ minutes. Oil gets hot, coolant gets hot, I get very hot.Only 10 Months ago, I replaced the timing belt, water pump, and thermostat with genuine parts. I know what a pain in the arse it is to change these items so I did them all at once. I am sick thinking about having to do it yet again with these apes poking around my car.
I have a 1992 celica GT 2.2l A/T. I was on my way home today from college and my car started to overheat right before i made it home. It was steaming a bit and the temp gauge was tacked out. when i pulled into my apartment i noticed a light brown colored liquid in my parking spot, and alot of it.
I saw this same liquid at my college campus and assumed it was a coffee someone spilled near my car, but now i know it came from my car. I haven't had a chance to check my houses yet as i just got home and my cars still really hot. I know its not power steering fluid b/c that's been empty all week b/c my reservoir leaks. Why my car is overheating and what liquid is coming from it. Oh also the liquid seems to be coming from the right front portion of the car.
Having issues with there Grand AM over heating? I've got a 99 Grand AM SE , & it's over heating. I cannot drive it more then 5 minutes without it starting to over heat. I'm getting no where fast with this vehicle.
View 2 RepliesLast summer the car would randomly overheat and we would switch the heater on and the temp needle would nose dive into normal range in 30 seconds. It made me think that maybe it wasn't really overheating.
This summer its started again. It gets almost into the red within minutes of driving it. There have been times where I turned and the needle went from almost the red zone to the normal range. Making me think its not overheating, but that nagging feeling tells me I need to know for sure.
The car will overheat within a few minutes. There were no visible leaks. I replaced upper and lower radiator hoses and refilled lost fluids. Driving it the first time, the upper radiator hose popped off and overheated. I initially thought it was the clamp being faulty so I bought a new clamp. Installed new clamp. Same thing. Same hose popped off again. Put it back on and its leaking fluid around the hose some how.
I know the lower hose has a coil in it to prevent collapse, should the upper too (haven't seen it collapse)? Why might it be leaking around the hose?
Next is the thermostat. That will be replaced this weekend. I'm pretty confident that it isn't the engine block cracked or a bad head gasket.
How should I remedy this hose issue and what course of action should I go for next? Water pump?
My engine started to overheat and I have a very specific stream of smoke coming from, what I believe, is the water outlet housing. I'm pretty sure the hoses that are connected to it are heater hoses of some sort. My question is what would make that specific area smoke?!? I have oil, I have plenty of coolant, although there was coolant leakage the first time I noticed the smoke underneath the car right about dead center, there wasn't a distinct epicenter of fluid, which lead me to rule out failing water pump. Got the diagnostic codes and the coolant temperature sensor checked out fine as well. Did not see any specific spots for leaking, just coolant sprayed everywhere on the underside of the car, behind the engine, towards the middle of the car and smoke coming from that water outlet housing.
View 1 RepliesStarted the R and moved it out of the garage after the motor build. At which during that time I replaced the large fan with a new one from Ecs and the small one I took apart and cleaned up after I found the Diy for it.
Before I rebuilt the motor the car started to over heat on its last ride home before the rebuild (Neither one of the fans would turn on). So I replaced the switch on the radiator today and let the car warm up and the fans didn't kick on again. I checked the fuse and it good but I'm not sure where the relay is.
Also my A/c is not charged up. I also touched the coolant lines running to the Aux radiator and they are cold. And I do hear the after run/electric water pump running.
The green coolant temp sensor is clean and plugged in. Could it be the thermostat? Are there any fuses in the panel that sits on top of the battery that deal with the fans? Is there a way to test the coolant fan control module?
New thermostat, radiator, radiator cap, water pump, hoses, viscous fan. No freeway driving, just surface streets. Go down a hill to work, come back up the hill and overheat. When car gets hot, can turn on heater, dump excess heat, and temp gauge moves back towards center. Oil is clean. Coolant is clean, no oily residue.
View 3 RepliesI was in traffic the other day on the express way and I noticed my engine was starting to overheat. I think it has something to do with the AC because as soon as I turned it off the temp went back to normal. What it could be?
View 2 RepliesI've got a 2001 Volkswagen Jetta 1.8T Wolfsburg Edition.
Recently the temp gauge sits at 260* as soon as the car starts, but it's not actually overheating. Car runs/drives fine and will do so for many, many miles. Even in stop and go traffic. Was told the thermostat was replaced, but that didn't fix the issue although it doesn't sound like a thermostat issue since the car isn't actually overheating. Coolant is topped off as well.
I am thinking it's a bad sensor. Where is it located on this car?
Car is a friends and she said she took it to a shop to have the coolant checked and they were also the ones who did the thermostat.