S-10 :: 92 Blazer Won't Start
Dec 14, 2013
So my 92 blazer won't start now I put an new alternator in and it won't kick over it want to start but wont..
View 3 RepliesSo my 92 blazer won't start now I put an new alternator in and it won't kick over it want to start but wont..
View 3 RepliesIt turns over but wont start, i have changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, injectors, and i also put new connectors for the injector, and new plugs. But still will not start?
View 8 RepliesI've changed the fuel pump, spider, fuel regulator and checked all the relays and fuses. The only way this truck will start is to prime the engine with a shot of gas and then it will start and run great. Shut it off and NO Start.
View 12 RepliesFor about two weeks, my Blazer would crank but not start on the first turn of the key. After a couple of tries it would start and as long as the engine was not off for more than a few hours, it would start again with no problem. While driving however, the engine would periodically "hitch" like it was missing a spark, or not getting any gas. As of last weekend, the engine will not catch at all, and a light on the dash shows "low fuel" even though the tank is almost full.
Spoke to a mechanic who (without looking at it) diagnosed a fuel pump problem at a cost of around $1,000. Is there any other problem which may cause this issue? I have very limited mechanical ability, and cannot pull the spark plugs to test them, as they seem to be buried in the lower half of the engine block.
When I turn the key over to start the vehicle, the clock resets to 1:00, the back latch clicks and the car kind of makes a grinding sound but not like a churn as if it wanted to start. I don't know if it is just a dying battery or if it would be something else but my car will not start at all.
View 1 Replies1988 s10 blazer 2.8 4x4 automatic. I just upgraded to a 3.4 v6, all machine work done, engine has all new internals. I have spark, i have fuel, but it will not start. I have checked the timing over and over, it is fine. I need a checklist or something to look for, all sensors seem to be hooked up and it still wont fire.
View 6 RepliesHer vehicle is a 2003 Chevrolet Blazer, 4 door. It has a brand new battery.
She drove it to the store and came back home and shut it off. Within 5 minutes she tried to start it back up to move it and it won't start. When she turns the key, all dashlights come on, all gauges work and the engine is turning but won't start.
When the key is turned, I do not hear the fuel pump. But I've been told that in some vehicles you don't.
We removed the cover under the hood and took out the "plug" that said fuel pump (it was grey and had 4 prongs on it that plugged in) and switched it with another "plug" with the same numbers and it still does the same thing.
Hubby took of the black cover (think it was the breather but not sure correct name) and sprayed a little starting fluid and the Blazer started for a few seconds and would continue this until it burnt up the fluid. He looked down in this when I was trying to start it and he said that he couldn't see any gas being shot in it.
Could it be anything else besides the fuel pump?? Where is the fuel pump relay switch located and how can we tell if it is bad? I have no problem buying a fuel pump for my mom but I would like to know that it is going to fix the problem.
Went to start the truck, turned the key - dash lit up, fuel pump primed, turned the key all the way and nothing. Truck did not even try to turn over, headlights did not dim, no starter, no crank.
I checked/tested the following:
-Battery and terminal connections - good fully charged 12.3v
-Ran battery charger on slow charge 10-15 min (quick) to full 13v
-Wiring to starter - good
-Relay box under hood - has power
-Starter relay - has wiring diagram on it - tested good.
-Every ignition related fuse in the relay box - all good
-Every ignition fuse in the driver's side dash fuse box - good
-I wiggled the ignition switch while turning every possible way - no crank
-I ran the gearshift lever through all the gears, tried to start it in neutral - no crank
-Rolled the truck a little, put in park - no crank
For some reason I decided to double check the # 24 RDO IGN fuse - it was fine. With the fuse still out I tried to start the truck and it STARTED!
I turned the truck off, replaced the fuse and the truck started again and, so far, ever since. I do not think the # 24 fuse had anything to do with it; I just got lucky.
Why will the 96 Blazer not start in the rain? Replaced almost all electric components from key cylinder to plugs. It is grounded somewhere when wet.
View 3 Repliesmy 97 chevy blazer has a lot of cranking first start in the day. I changed the rotor and distributor cap but I don't smell any fuel then all fo asudden it will start. I am wondering is it a fuel relay problem, a fuel filter, or some sort of sensor. when it does start it is very smooth running no shaking or hesitation full of power for the rest of the day starts and stops erands . is it worth buying a plug in code gadget and will this problem show up as a code.
View 4 RepliesVehicle turns over, but does not start. I do not hear the fuel pump when the vehicle is switched on. Fuel pump was replaced back in December 2010.
View 1 RepliesMy 96 2dr. Blazer with 121,000 on it . It will randomly not start. Come back next day starts and runs fine. It will randomly Stall (usually at lower RPM) it may start back up or not .If it dosen't start, it will start up 2 hours later, like nothing happened.
Fuel press. reads 58-62 lbs. running or with k.o.e.o., Even when it won't start. It holds press. for 2 min. c.e.l. never comes on when car won't start. c.e.l. would come on at close to red line and would be "left bank rich" Dont think it's crank or cam sensor cause their are no codes? Gonna check coil and ICM .
Checked for bad connectors at ecu, and everywhere, pulled, giggled on harness at ign. switch,plugs on drivers side under hood.Pump coming on even when car doesn't start. When it dies or doesn't start it doesn't sputter, like it's not getting gas ,I think it's voltage.
Car has new fuel pump and spider installed 2 years ago, run 44K every 6mos. Car is perfect inside and out Very well maintained . I want to keep this car forever.
Wants to crank. I notice when I turn the key switch on (not start) the gas gauge pegs out as if a super full tank and no fuel pump noise. At times, leading up to the crank but no start condition, I would turn the key on, hear the fuel pump and the gas gauge would indicate proper fuel level. When this happened, the vehicle ALWAYS started.
Here what I know now;
1. Fuel pump works. As indicated by the red auxellery jumper lead inside the engine well.
2. Good fuel pressure.
3. Starter checks good.
4. Battery hot and leads are cleaned.
5. Grounds in engine compartment and at fuel tank are cleaned.
6. Vehicle does have gas.
7. Air bag light stays on, even after pulling battery leads, letting set, and reinstalling.
This ABS light would come on and go off independently before the "crank but no start condition". So I'm assuming that the ABS might be its own problem; but not contributing to the crank but no start condition? There were problems leading up to the no start condition. Vehicle began to become hard to start (but would start). After starting (at idle) if the gas pedal was pressed aggressively, the "service engine" light would flash on and off rapidly and the "ABS" light would come on. At this point the vehicle wanted to die. No apparent codes were given.
Now the "crank but no start condition". Before this problem, the vehicle was sending the code for 3 o2 sensors. But a new fuel filter corrected this problem completely with no further apparent problems. Then (about 4 weeks later) the "crank but no start". I do not think the fuel filter and the "crank but no start" problems are related.? No other maintenance has been done to this vehicle that might cause this problem. At this point the manual I am using is useless...
I have my My brother-in-law's blazer in my garage after a 60 mile tow. This is a TBI model with distributor. The dash lights went out, and it cranks fine but does not fire, even with starting fluid sprayed int the throttle body. Below are the details of what has been done so
far:
- Checked all fuses, none are blown.
- Could not get a spark from the coil wire when next to block while turning it over
- with ignition on we are only getting .11 volts from the connector that goes to the coil, should this be 12 volts?
- Ignition module tested ok (out of the vehicle at an auto zone and they said it was fine)
- can hear the fuel pump run at startup, (was replaced with a delphi pump last winter, but we could not get the fuel filter off at the time and he never replaced it)
- Did not check fuel pressure, but it sprayed out at test port when I pushed the valve.
PCM failure? What else?
2000 Chevy Blazer 4.3 (automatic) - When I bought it used, it shifted fine, has no issues other than the transfer case wouldn't engage every time. A few months later my overhead console display lights went out, then all the dash lights such as engine, 4x4, the gauges started lighting up and acting weird randomly, then a week later the truck started shifting funny.
Now 90% of the time, the truck won't start in 1st gear, it starts in 2nd, then while accelerating up to 30-35mph it will shift up way too soon and bog down, then shit back down to 2nd, then shift up again, and continue until it hits 30-35, then it fails to shift into overdrive. Also when coming to a stop, it kicks down a gear (into 2nd I assume) pretty hard and clanks pretty loud around 2mph just before a complete stop.
Weird thing is every once in awhile, it will go away and shift normal but the engine light is usually lit up during normal shifting.Could it be the ECM causing all these weird things?
I have a 1998 chevy blazer v6 about 127000 miles on it. When I go and start up car the car starts right up. If I turn car off it won't start back up so i give it a little gas it starts right back up. There is no check engine light...
View 7 RepliesI have an 02 Blazer w/ 110K miles. It's the 4.3L with 4WD. When I start it in the morning it usually has a low pulsing whirring sound for up to 30 seconds. It then goes away until the car is parked for a long time again, say overnight. It's a low volume sound, a lot like the sound of off road tires running down the highway. This has been going on for several months now.
All systems work fine. The alternator is new, the water pump has about 29K on it, and the top idler pulley has been replaced. Turning the A/C on or off makes no difference. The sound is loudest when you stand in front of the passenger side headlight which made me suspect and swap the alternator.
Could it be the belt? It was replaced with the WP and the ribs are not smooth inside. They are notched. I assume that's to improve the flexibility of the belt. If I take it to a shop they'll get 30 seconds each morning to diagnose it.
2000 Blazer 4wd, automatic, 122000 miles
In the last couple of weeks, if the Blazer isn't driven for 3 or more days, there is a slight knocking noise for 15 to 20 seconds after start up. Oil level and pressure are fine. I'm guessing it's the lifters.....
I have a 1998 chevy blazer and I cant get it to start. I removed the starter and turned the key and can see the starter popping out and spinning, but when I put it back into the flywheel all I get is clicking noise(like if the battery is dead) I had it on jumper cables so I don't think its the battery?
View 12 RepliesI've got a "new" Blazer -95 4.3 vin W about a month ago. It has run about 170,000 km.
But now it looks like it was a bad buy, it runs bad. The rpm starts jumping between 1500 - 2500. Suddenly the break and ABS warning lights in dashboard lights up, and sometimes all black out and it stalls.
At first it started acting like this when towing a trailer on the highway, doing 80 km/h. But now it does it at any speed.
Think i have an exhaust leak in a 1999 s10 blazer lt 4x4 4 door. the loudest spot where i can hear the exhaust noise at cold start and idle, is the passenger side right behind the front tire. on cold mornings where you can see the exhaust smoke prior to warming up i cannot see anything coming from this area. non mechanic types have suggested either the y pipe, or where the y pipe meets the header. Would both have to be replaced to fix this problem if this is the case? and how intensive is this to fix? meaning would the whole motor have to be pulled to remove the entire exhaust piping to have it brazed? my dad is a mechanic, so the tools I've got and his know-how, just need to know what to do? Any definitive way to tell where an exhaust leak is, beyond having a friend cup their hand over the tail pipe, while they look for it..
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