S-10 :: 2003 Blazer Won't Start - Engine Is Turning
Feb 2, 2012
Her vehicle is a 2003 Chevrolet Blazer, 4 door. It has a brand new battery.
She drove it to the store and came back home and shut it off. Within 5 minutes she tried to start it back up to move it and it won't start. When she turns the key, all dashlights come on, all gauges work and the engine is turning but won't start.
When the key is turned, I do not hear the fuel pump. But I've been told that in some vehicles you don't.
We removed the cover under the hood and took out the "plug" that said fuel pump (it was grey and had 4 prongs on it that plugged in) and switched it with another "plug" with the same numbers and it still does the same thing.
Hubby took of the black cover (think it was the breather but not sure correct name) and sprayed a little starting fluid and the Blazer started for a few seconds and would continue this until it burnt up the fluid. He looked down in this when I was trying to start it and he said that he couldn't see any gas being shot in it.
Could it be anything else besides the fuel pump?? Where is the fuel pump relay switch located and how can we tell if it is bad? I have no problem buying a fuel pump for my mom but I would like to know that it is going to fix the problem.
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I've changed the fuel pump, spider, fuel regulator and checked all the relays and fuses. The only way this truck will start is to prime the engine with a shot of gas and then it will start and run great. Shut it off and NO Start.
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1988 s10 blazer 2.8 4x4 automatic. I just upgraded to a 3.4 v6, all machine work done, engine has all new internals. I have spark, i have fuel, but it will not start. I have checked the timing over and over, it is fine. I need a checklist or something to look for, all sensors seem to be hooked up and it still wont fire.
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I have an 02 Blazer w/ 110K miles. It's the 4.3L with 4WD. When I start it in the morning it usually has a low pulsing whirring sound for up to 30 seconds. It then goes away until the car is parked for a long time again, say overnight. It's a low volume sound, a lot like the sound of off road tires running down the highway. This has been going on for several months now.
All systems work fine. The alternator is new, the water pump has about 29K on it, and the top idler pulley has been replaced. Turning the A/C on or off makes no difference. The sound is loudest when you stand in front of the passenger side headlight which made me suspect and swap the alternator.
Could it be the belt? It was replaced with the WP and the ribs are not smooth inside. They are notched. I assume that's to improve the flexibility of the belt. If I take it to a shop they'll get 30 seconds each morning to diagnose it.
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I have a 1998 chevy blazer and I cant get it to start. I removed the starter and turned the key and can see the starter popping out and spinning, but when I put it back into the flywheel all I get is clicking noise(like if the battery is dead) I had it on jumper cables so I don't think its the battery?
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1992 S10 Blazer, 4.3L, 4x4, TBI "Z"
When I start the truck, it idles rough, like it's idling too low, and even feels like it's missing during idle. Sometimes when I put it in gear (reverse or drive), it shuts off. No codes are being thrown. It has no problems driving around town or on the highway. It's just that initial start and idle.
I've checked all the following with a shop manual:
Ignition Control Mod.- Orig and 2nd one from junk yard. Both tested good at store. Even the testing in the shop manual with an ohm meter and battery tested good.
Ignition coil- tested good using shop manual testing
TPS- Scan shows .2-.7 at idle.
Plugs, wires, cap, and rotor are good.
Vacuum is good.
Haven't checked IAC, EGR
I recently moved cross country, and about halfway through, I broke down. Engine would turn over, fuel relay would click, injectors would work, but no fuel. Pulled it in to a truck shop, and after all my testing and theirs, we determined it was the fuel pump. After they had to fix a pinched hose, it ran. I made it to Texas. I didn't have the idle issues prior to the trip. Just had the tranny rebuilt and everything was great.
I thought, at first, the ignition control mod was the problem because it got a bit warm pulling the trailer, and I know those things don't like too much heat. No dice. So, what controls idle at Park and in gear but at idle? EGR, IAC?
I did a WinALDL scan. IAC at Park/Idle ranges from 18-55. The engine never runs in Open Loop. I would say the engine runs mostly rich according to the scan. I've attached a manageable version of the WinALDL data.
Also, I need to check the thermostat or temp sensor. Scan reads the engine never getting higher than 180.
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So my 92 blazer won't start now I put an new alternator in and it won't kick over it want to start but wont..
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So after work tonight I went to start truck it turned over fine but wouldn't start, when it finally did it barely ran and then it was fine, I had it b4 when I start it would turn over for a little bit b4 starting, would that be fuel pump?
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In the past week I have three instances where my Jetta will not start. I end up taking the Touareg. When I get home, I try the Jetta again and it starts right up. The engine is turning over but nothing happens. When I turn on the acc, I can hear the fuel pump.
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It turns over but wont start, i have changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, injectors, and i also put new connectors for the injector, and new plugs. But still will not start?
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Van will not start, battery has been tested and has a charge. Have tried to jump start the van and that will get the electrical system working but will not turn over the engine. I've had issues with the security system in the past not allowing the car to start, but past fixes fail to work this time.
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I'm having problems with starting my car when the engine is hot. Cold engine starts normally. But when the engine is hot and when I turn the engine off and return after few hours- it wouldn't start or it's very hard to start. Starter keeps turning but the engine revolutions are very low and the engine wont start. When I give it some gas it starts and the engine runs normally. I have already changed the coolant temperature sensor and one of the coils- no change. And the coolant seems to be wanishing too, but it happens very slowly. (There are no signs of leakage anywhere.) Maybe it's something to do with it?
The car is 2001 year VW Passat 2.3 V5 125kw (azx).
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I have a 2011 elanta limited with the push to start. 3x now I will park and push to turn off car. & it turns engine off but navigation and such stay on. Ill try to start it up and try again, exact same thing. Then I give up and get out and it will beep because my keys aren't nearby and continue to stay on. It's lasted an hour tips so far until it will cooperate.I can't completely turn it off. More info, 3x in 4months. Not driven or done anything differently any of those times.
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I've got a 1993 Ford Aerostar XLT. Was running great until yesterday, when I turned the ignition and got nothing but a click every time the key was turned. Checked the battery (had power), bridged the relay (just got clicks but didn't turn over)....so I concluded the starter was bad.
I installed a new starter motor/starter Selinoid today. The van started right up, but next start the engine kept cranking (even while van was running and after shutting off)...I had to disconnect the battery cable for it to stop. Next start the problem didn't persist...but the time after that it happened again.
Any thoughts as to what is going on, or where to start in tackling this problem?
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For about two weeks, my Blazer would crank but not start on the first turn of the key. After a couple of tries it would start and as long as the engine was not off for more than a few hours, it would start again with no problem. While driving however, the engine would periodically "hitch" like it was missing a spark, or not getting any gas. As of last weekend, the engine will not catch at all, and a light on the dash shows "low fuel" even though the tank is almost full.
Spoke to a mechanic who (without looking at it) diagnosed a fuel pump problem at a cost of around $1,000. Is there any other problem which may cause this issue? I have very limited mechanical ability, and cannot pull the spark plugs to test them, as they seem to be buried in the lower half of the engine block.
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When I turn the key over to start the vehicle, the clock resets to 1:00, the back latch clicks and the car kind of makes a grinding sound but not like a churn as if it wanted to start. I don't know if it is just a dying battery or if it would be something else but my car will not start at all.
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Went to start the truck, turned the key - dash lit up, fuel pump primed, turned the key all the way and nothing. Truck did not even try to turn over, headlights did not dim, no starter, no crank.
I checked/tested the following:
-Battery and terminal connections - good fully charged 12.3v
-Ran battery charger on slow charge 10-15 min (quick) to full 13v
-Wiring to starter - good
-Relay box under hood - has power
-Starter relay - has wiring diagram on it - tested good.
-Every ignition related fuse in the relay box - all good
-Every ignition fuse in the driver's side dash fuse box - good
-I wiggled the ignition switch while turning every possible way - no crank
-I ran the gearshift lever through all the gears, tried to start it in neutral - no crank
-Rolled the truck a little, put in park - no crank
For some reason I decided to double check the # 24 RDO IGN fuse - it was fine. With the fuse still out I tried to start the truck and it STARTED!
I turned the truck off, replaced the fuse and the truck started again and, so far, ever since. I do not think the # 24 fuse had anything to do with it; I just got lucky.
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Why will the 96 Blazer not start in the rain? Replaced almost all electric components from key cylinder to plugs. It is grounded somewhere when wet.
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my 97 chevy blazer has a lot of cranking first start in the day. I changed the rotor and distributor cap but I don't smell any fuel then all fo asudden it will start. I am wondering is it a fuel relay problem, a fuel filter, or some sort of sensor. when it does start it is very smooth running no shaking or hesitation full of power for the rest of the day starts and stops erands . is it worth buying a plug in code gadget and will this problem show up as a code.
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Vehicle turns over, but does not start. I do not hear the fuel pump when the vehicle is switched on. Fuel pump was replaced back in December 2010.
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I've got a 2003 Volvo S60 with close to 121,000 miles on it.
Last winter, my Engine cut out on me as I was taking a sharp right onto my home street. At first, I thought I hit an icy patch and my car had skidded, but then I realized the engine was off, but all the lights on my dashboard were on (including all the warning/alert lights). I put the car in park, turned my key into the off position, then tried to start it up. It immediately started. Other factors: There was snow and I had just recently exited the highway.
Everything seemed to be going pretty well until this winter (in Connecticut) when my car cut out on me again. Just like before, I assumed I had hit an icy patch as the car seemed sluggish and unresponsive (and it had just snowed). Again, it happened as I was taking a right turn, and it's happened about three times since.
Today was the first time it happened as I was making a left turn. Luckily, I was the last car in the turning lane, and I managed to get my car more or less close to the shoulder and put my hazard lights on (as traffic was now approaching), and Nik Nak rebooted just as before.
I used to think the cold/snow had something to do with it, but it was 50 degrees today. Also, I'm not entirely sure, but I think the wheel may have been turned as far as it could go. I honestly can't remember if that was the case the other times it cut out. I plan on experimenting in a parking lot tomorrow to see if turning the wheel all the way is causing it.
What might be causing it? (And besides not turning the steering wheel all the way, how this problem may be fixed?)
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