S-10 :: 2003 - All Gauges Show Various Levels Even Though Key Not Inserted
Oct 3, 2012
Just as I was about to start my '03 S10 I noticed that all of the gauges were not at zero and showed various levels even though the key was not inserted. When I tried to start it there was nothing. I charged the battery overnight and it started without hesitation; however, as I started driving, the gauges would stop working and then suddenly jump to life and, at the same time, all the idiot lights would light up! This carried on the entire 20 minute drive to work. Incredibly, none of this happened on the way home. My OBD reader reported zero issues. What's wrong with my truck?
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Dad's 2000 F150 5.4 ltr will start intermittently, when it does fire it runs fine, but right after start up all the dash gauges "spike" to the max levels for a sec and then go back down to normal....
Put the Cen-Tec 98614 code reader on and it continues to say "Link error" and I can't communicate to the interface. P.S., I confirmed the Code reader is good by pulling a 420 O2 sensor code from my Toyota in just a few seconds....
I can hear the fuel pump kick in so I doubt that is the culprit. Because of the gauge spike at start up (every time) this problem screams grounding problem, but I don't know where to start. Could it be a faulty relay?
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Dont ask how but i put in a wrong passat b6 key. And now it wont come out. How do i take it out??
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Just bought a watchdog monitor by Bullydog. What are the normal levels for Boost, MAF, Load for a SD Twin Turbo 6.0L?
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My 07' 142k with new 12v battery keeps setting off the alarm. All the doors were opened and shut, trunk and hood than locked but to no avail. Alarm keeps going off unless the key fob is inserted in dash.
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I realized my newly bought Priuss' horn wasn't working when I tried using it earlier in the week.
Me and my dad and I opened up the hood, we realized that the fuse box was missing the horn fuse.
Dad being a a self taught mechanic, we inserted the fuse and almost instantly, the horn started going off. It was just a constant loud beep.
He then removed the fuse and the horn stopped.
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2003 Ford Explorer fuel gauge does not show full after fill up. The Ford service stated that it can take up to 17 minutes (of running time) for the fuel gauge to show full after fill up.
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I have a 2001 F150 Supercrew (5.4 V8, 2WD,Auto trans) and recently when we fill the gas tank, the fuel tank doesn't go all the way up to the "full" line. Don't know if this matters but: about a year 1/2 ago in a little town (while on vacation), we broke down and the trouble was the fuel pump. The little town did have a small auto-parts store, and luckily had the fuel pump we needed. Unfortunately we didn't have much as far as tools and we wound up tearing/cutting the filler hose and the vent line.
The little auto store did not have the correct rubber filler & vent hoses for my truck and would take a few days get in stock. We changed out the entire fuel pump and sender unit, and were able to modify some rubber hoses for a new filler & vent line hose. Everything worked great for a year 1/2 but in the last few weeks we have noticed that when we fill the tank, the gas gauge does not go all the way up to the "F" line to show full. With the price of gas, it is important to know exactly how much is really in the tank. Also, is there a battery in the ceiling console for the temperature and compass? Ours just stopped working yesterday.
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2003 Excursion 4x4 Limited v-10 gasoline engine powered
gauges stopped working
gauges dead
gauges not working
gauges
Coming home tonight, I lost all the instrument cluster gauges. Speedometer, tachometer, fuel, oil, temperature and transmission temperature.
So the logical thing to do was check both instrument cluster fuses, fuse 35 and fuse 41. They were both OK.
Kept looking and found fuse #45 blown, it's the "Ignition switch Run/ Start feed" fuse. It was blown.
Popped in a new one and gauges came back to life. I don't know why fuse #45 controls power to the instrument cluster gauges. Strange.
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I have a 98 F150 with a 5.4 auto 4X4. All four of the guages are on the left side of the instrument cluster. Neither one of the 4 work. The gas gauge, the amp meter, the oil pressure, and temp gauge work. the all four just stay all the way down. I've checked all the fuses and the sending units. ONly fuse position number 6 and 30 pertain to the cluster. I took the cluster out too make sure it was plugged in and it was. I know there is gas in it and I know the oil pump is working.
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I have a 2003 Ford Focus ZX5 automatic with 143k miles on it. Recently I've run into a problem with the speedometer and RPM gauges dropping down to 0, no reading. It is an intermittent problem and has no logical connection to any of the other functions of the vehicle (it can happen while the car is idling, in motion, upon startup, etc etc.) Everything else on the instrument cluster works perfectly fine, (odometer still reads correctly and works, gas gauge is fine, etc). I'm thinking maybe it is an electrical issue since the car seems to be in fine working condition other than that, even when it drops out. The gauges won't start reading again until I start the car up...and sometimes that is not a guarantee. I use this vehicle to commute locally 4 days a week and I've already put a lot of money into new components for the vehicle.
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I recently purchased a 2000 F150 Regular Cab Work Series with the 4.2 V6 4x4 and an automatic transmission. It has what seems to be an electrical issue where the speedometer and gauges come in and out seemingly at random. All of my fuses are good with the exception of Fuse 1 in the fuse box under the steering wheel, which will blow every time I put a new one in. It seems like there is a short in the wiring for the radio? However Fuse 1 is supposed to control only the audio, and I'm not sure why that would be an issue with the gauges.
When they come on, everything seems to work just fine. Also, even when they go out and I have the headlights on, both the gauges and the car stereo will be backlit with the green glow.
When I turn put the key in the run position, the gauges will come on and remain on for a random amount of time after I start the engine, then will go out and come on at random. When the gauges go out so will my check engine light (code P0460).
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Ran for a month just fine. Now it will only start after being jumped. Everything worked just fine.... What should I test first?
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The brief information:
1. Stuck/non moving in traffic on the freeway for roughly 1 1/2. During that time the AC was running, but once I noticed my "battery light" on the dash turn on, I turned everything off.
2. Since then while on my way home from work the voltage meter only showed barely 12 volts at full throttle.
3. I charged my battteries, and started it up today to go into work. While going to work the voltage meter showed 14 at its high point, but shortly there after it dropped back down to 12. At which time the battery light came back on.
New battery or alternator?
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I have an F 150 2002 Trition V-8. I always thought I knew how to read an instrument panel on a vehicle but after being put down by my Ford, I have to rethink this knowledge.
I have noticed over the past 4 years that my volt meter guage on the instrument panel always stayed in the same place whether the motor was running or just the key in the on position. I noticed that a little battery icon kept coming on and going out yesterday. I read the owner's manual and it said something like this indicates your battery is not taking a charge correctly. Well why has the guage not told me anything. Well the alternator has quit but yet and still the guage is still showing me all is well.
I ask a Ford dealer service dept. about this and they do not have a clue. All they tell me is people do not pay attention to the guage but when the light comes on they need. They also said the gauge would work when everything shuts down, but man! I don't need it to work then. I know it's broken when that happens. It quits running.
What is the purpose of the gauge sitting there all shiny and pretty if it is not going to say anything other than "HEY MAN! I am just here looking pretty and taking up space".
I have looked at other trucks and they do the same thing. Nothing .. What is going on with this gauge which undoubtedly does nothing?
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I've owned my 2003 Santa fe v4 for about a year and a half now. One thing that has always bothered me in the fact my air condition works on only two out of four levels. Level 2 and Level 3 work perfectly, but level 1 and level 4 dont work, and have never worked.
I've gotten a lot of things replaced, but never bothered with this as I barely use it anyways (windows down + high speed = just as good).
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I've been searching for a few days, Can not find an exact same posted issue. 2004 Passat GLX 2.8 Auto FWD. The car starts great, will idle all day if you let it. Will move down the driveway or a small ways down the road and die. start it again, will start easy. die once it levels at idle. Also if you rev it, it will die within a second of revving. If you can get it high enough, say 4000+ it will die, but as the engine speed slows down it will catch again and come alive. and kinda repeat. will do that as long as you hold the gas down. after about 15mins of restarting, it will level out at idle and you can continue on your way. the fuel pump still runs for it's second after the engine dies, so i know it's still going. The car recently had new plugs put on, New brake switch, and the pcv hose that runs from passenger side valve cover to the rear of drivers side along the front was replaced with the same size rubber hose. it broke during new plug install. It idles smooth, drives good while acting right. but does have a noticeable power loss, but still very driveable.
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I have a 2000 F-150 and my lights to my gauges and heater controls quit working. I checked all the fuses inside and under the hood. All good. I swapped a few relays around and no luck. I tried replacing the headlight switch and that did not work. I checked power to the gauges from the headlight switch and there is no power, I then ran a hot wire to the wire that powers the gauge lamps and they do light up, so it is not a bulb issue. I assume I am not getting power, but do not know where else to look?
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2000 F-350 7.3L no gauges or throttle, I checked the fuses and no luck....
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Lately I have noticed when I start my car in the morning it idles around 800 for about 30 seconds then levels out. No smoke or anything from exhaust. Then after driving for a bit and coming to a stop it does te same thing. It's very intermittent but have noticed it seems to be getting worse. Timing belt n water pump was done about 5 k ago. All new coils done under recall. With new plugs. Air filter was done n oil changed every 3k.. It's a 1.8t aww by the way with 97k on it.
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So, my FWD car has 3 tires that are getting close to replacement tread depth, and one that is only about half worn--it had to be replaced partway thru due to unrepairable damage. The question is whether this amount of difference in tread--maybe 1/8 inch--matters. I could buy 3 and save money or buy 4 and put one away for a good reserve tire. (The spare is different).
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