S-10 :: 2002 - Trans Won't Lock Up When Warmed Up
Jul 24, 2014
I have a S10, 2000, 2.2 liter with 4L60E automatic transmission. The trans was rebuilt just before I got the truck and I verified this at the shop that did it. It's got about 45k on the trans since this rebuild. It started jumping in and out of TC lockup intermittently not long after I started driving it. No codes set and no light at all. I took it to the same trans shop that did the rebuild and drove it with a scanner and it wouldn't malfunction for them and they saw no stored codes. Then it went for several months and only slipped in and out once in a while so I lived with it. It started getting bad again so I took it back in and it acted normal again for them. I said if I drive it to work and it does it on the way I'll come by so they agreed. The next day it started going in and out after about ten minutes down the road so I went straight to the shop.
By the time I got there it wouldn't go to lock up at all. He drove it with me and the scanner showed the TC was not being told to go to lock up. He said the trans wasn't at fault. He could see the temp was steady and OK, the TPS (throttle position sensor) was a little low but steady and not the probable cause and VSS (speed sensor) was steady and looked good. He said he could only guess the computer was bad. I've since replaced the computer, TPS, and the VSS with no luck. I've ohmed out the wires and connectors from sensor to PCM connector as far as I can reach for each of these parts and find no broken or shorted wires. It seems to get worse when it warms up to the point it won't lock up at all now. The temp gauge is rock steady so I don't think it's bad or the wires. If I drop it down to 3 it seems to work fine up to what seems like 4th gear. I've tapped the brake pedal and pulled up on it with no change.
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Recently started experiencing a hard downshift after driving for 30 minutes, and only from 2nd to 1st. No other shift issues with other gears, up or down.
When moving over to manual shifting, it doesn't appear to have the issue when downshifting in manual.
I replaced the radiator about 2 weeks ago due to a serious leak, and the shifting problem wasn't an issue before as I would have noticed.
Going to start with the fluid lvl, but it feels odds with it occurring during the downshift to 1st.
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My Acura MDX has 118,000 miles on it. When I start it in the morning, it stalls as I shift it into gear unless I let it warm up for about 5 minutes. It is a 2002.
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My 02 BMW 525i engine starts to stop running when the gas pedal is pressed. The engine starts and drives fine when the engine is cold. However, after driving for a while like more than 20 miles, I mean when the engine warms up already, the engine suddenly stops when the gas pedal is pressed, like stopping in the traffic light or STOP sign and starts to drive. I replaced the idle air control valve, but it does not work. What should I check next?
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I have 234,000 miles on the car, it runs well. starting to have idling problems, if I don't let the car warm up for ten or more minutes it cuts off. The power steering belt is making noise, the dash board is cracked from the sun other then these two issues it runs great. Should I repair these things or should I start looking for a new car?
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2002 GTi 337 not shifting out of 1st until is warmed up for 20 min. Then shifts fine. I've already attempted to add the "liquid gold" G-052-990-A2 ATF fluid from VW at $35qt. I put in about 200ML to no change, then another 200ML to no change. So from reading other posts in VWvortex I've seen many folks with the Jetta have had very similar symptoms. They are installing a new (Solenoid valve N92 (green) to fix this issue. Many of them are even using over the counter synthetic ATF. Before I dig in, just wanted to know what folks with the GTi 337 think about this? Am I dealing with basically the same transmission?
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Is there an easy way to do this...???
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Three days ago, my 2002 Taurus ses, 144k, auto, 3.0 v6 motor, started "ticking" after I drove it to the local grocery. It is coming from the top of the motor, but does not make noise when it is first started, cold, only after it is warmed up. Oil & filter has 2500 miles on them, all other fluids are good.
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Just picked up an Excursion with the V10 and 4R100 (2001). Drove it in to work to day and while on the freeway cruising on cruise control about 60 it seemed to shift or atleast lock/unlock the trans on ever slight downhill you encounter on a city freeway. Just light humps in the road. Does this seem normal? RPM's would be just shy of 2000 then I'd hit a small decline and would shift to 1600 or so then back up when it leveled out.
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B1602 PATS Recieved Invalid FMT/Key CD
P0753 Shift Solenoid A Electrical
P0758 Shift Solenoid B Electrical
P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Fault
P1760 Pressure Control Solenoid A Short
p0305 Cylinder 5 misfire Detected
P0316 Engine misfire Detected on Startup
The Trans will unlock while driveing for a few seconds then lock back up and drive fine, it seems to be worse over the past couple days. It is no different cold or hot. I also noticed the head lights dim and the voltage on my scanner drops to around 12 volts when the trans disengages. When it is not acting up it drives and shifts perfect.
I have checked a few grounds that were visible and cleaned battery connections. There has to be a wire harness or ground that I am missing some where that is bad?? The misfire code has been fixed, not related.
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B1602 PATS Recieved Invalid FMT/Key CD
P0753 Shift Solenoid A Electrical
P0758 Shift Solenoid B Electrical
P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Fault
P1760 Pressure Control Solenoid A Short
p0305 Cylinder 5 misfire Detected
P0316 Engine misfire Detected on Startup
The Trans will unlock while driving for a few seconds then lock back up and drive fine, it seems to be worse over the past couple days. It is no different cold or hot. I also noticed the head lights dim and the voltage on my scanner drops to around 12 volts when the trans disengages. When it is not acting up it drives and shifts perfect.
I have checked a few grounds that were visible and cleaned battery connections. The misfire code has been fixed, not related.
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Driving an 02 Taurus, 3.0 motor. Trans was rebuilt recently. Car seems to drive smoothly, with 1 driver. But on a road with dips, the trans seems to hum while car is down in dip. Hum lasts for 1-2 seconds. Back on level road, car is quiet. Only had car for a few weeks. I noticed hum within 1 day of driving. Tires? Wheel bearing? So, last weekend I had 3 passengers. Tried to accelerate up on ramp and the "hum" was very noticeable while accelerating. Any light cruising, the car seems quiet. I am leaning towards binding cv axles? Or bad valve body. Or something internal in trans. Gonna talk to former owner who paid for trans work.
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I own a 2002 W8 passat b5.5 that had issues from the used car dealer i had bought it from. I had 2 new motors installed over the period of about 13 months . The first motor had a bad torque converter and seemed to also cause my trans to slip. I am not sure if that is the direct cause of the trans slip going from 2nd to 3rd gear. The second motor dropped 4 valves in the cylinder "3" and cracked the starter. I had all the work done by the VW dealer that i used to work at.
As of today i seem to hear a knocking from idle to 5,000rpms, which is the highest ill push it. Now I know that a lot of of the W8 had issues with the torque converters. my current engine has just about 4k miles on it and I know vw warranties this motor up to 12k miles. That is not my concern, my concern is why do these motors keep failing under normal every day use in my particular vehicle?
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I have an 02 DGC with 187K miles. 3.8L There has never been any work done on engine or trans. We do regular oil changes and I just had a complete scheduled maintenance overhaul done about a year ago, including the trans. And as a matter of full disclosure, my wife and I are prob not considered "easy" drivers.
A few weeks ago, when I put the van in D, it won't engage. No problem with R, just D. After a few minutes it engages and off I go. If I warm the car up first, this does not happen either. And it won't happen the rest of the day. The only other "funny" thing it is doing is, when I slow down, there is a definite movement or catch as it shifts down around 20-30mph. It feels as though the gears are having trouble downshifting.
I took it to a mechanic and he said the life span on this trans is about 180K and so I need a new one. Does that sound correct?
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I have a 02 excursion 7.3 with 120000 miles. Went camping and towed my 28ft travel trailer weighs about 9000 lbs loaded . The trans got super hot dumped fluid in the past this time same thing but the front seal went had it replaced and the trans pump rebuilt on the way home it got super hot a few times what I need to do now. The trans guy said the trans had been rebuilt in the past don't know when cuz I bought the truck used 1.5 yr ago..... The truck has tow package coolers its set up for towing how the hell do I keep the temp down...
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Where do i look for the trans ID on my 02, 7.3 ? thought there all 4r100's is that right..
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Drained and refilled 4qt on my 02 Camry. Also changed the trans filter. It used to be all the way up to "HOT", but very low after refill. What's the trick here? Need another qt?
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My 02 trans with 189k miles on it has lately started not going into park completely. Every once in a while it will feel like it is in park, but when i get out of the truck it starts to roll away, and the park pawl can be heard ratcheting. The shift tube screws are tight, as is the tube itself and the shift lever. Does this sound like the trans will have to come out?
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I am having trans problems with my 2002 V10 excursion. When in overdrive, the trans will rev up 300 rpm before downshifting into direct drive. It never varies in rpm always exactly 300 rpm. It's not slipping and it seems to be an electrical problem. It has 190k on it but has only been used as a family vehicle and has never towed. It has 50k on fluid change.
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I own a 2002 Escape, 4WD 4cly manual trans. A couple of days ago, when I left work I stopped at a stop light. I shifted out of gear while I waited for the light to change like I always do. When I went to shift back into gear, I couldn't. I found that if I turned the key off, with the clutch disengaged, I could shift into gear without a problem, start the car up and drive away.
Since the first time this has happened, it has happened a few more times, always when stopped, once or twice while slowing down to stop (low RPMs). Besides all that, the car shifts fine while driving.
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My wife has a 02 Ford Escape XLS with a I4/manual trans, she has been saying it has been making weird grinding noises for a while but has not been able to replicate it for me to hear. Today it locked in gear and stalled, she can depress the clutch and start it, but can't take off in whatever "gear it thinks it's in" and it'll stall. To quote her.
So odds are the clutch or trans is toast, I'm more of a full size truck guy when it comes to doing work, what to look at? She's getting it towed and I have enough tools to do the job just not a ton of time this second to do the research, When I know more I'll add it.
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