S-10 :: 2000 ZR2 - Smoke Blowing Out Rear At Highway Speed / Smells Like Trans Fluid
Feb 9, 2015
It's a '00 zr2, usually after 15-20mins driving I see smoke blowing out rear at highway speed. If I'm driving slow same results with smoke just rolls out from hood. Smells like trans fluid although doesn't seem like the level is any lower yet.... Guessing gasket when under pressure, I would guess passenger side hitting manifold but I haven't seen obvious leaks don't know where to start.
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2006 overheats and starts blowing white smoke, smells like antifreeze, added 2 gals of water to make it 1 mile home. Smokes on the way @195 temp and when I shut it off it smokes out tailpipe for another 3 min. Smells like the head gaskets just went, what should I check? The eot and ect have been 10 deg or less.
This has 225,000 miles on it ran great before this, so would it be stupid too not get a redone set of heads while I'm doing the gaskets and studs?
I was thinking of getting heads from here, UCF Machine Shop - Precision machining, engine rebuilding and more. Cummins + Ford Rebuild Specialist. And a Sinister Diesel Complete Solution For Ford Powerstroke 2003-2007 6.0L. Are these the right places to deal with or should I look elsewhere?
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I am a mechanic and tow operator running a late 99 f350 7.3 6 speed cab and chassis wrecker. This truck has had a hard life and has been neglected for quite some time, and now has become my baby/headache. Truck starts great, idles nice, and will run great for about 5 minutes until it starts billowing white smoke that smells like fuel and loses all power. If you continue to drive it it will die. Sounds like it's dropping cylinders and will barely idle. If you stop for 5 minutes or so and let it idle it will smooth back out and will run great again for another minute or two, then right back to stumbling.
Using torque app, hpop pressure looks good when it's running well. Peaks at 3k, IPR maintaining 30-40% max. As soon as it stumbles you can see the hpop drop to 5-600 and the IPR will climb to 65%. Let it idea bit and they go back to normal, and stay good until it stumbles again.
Ive changed the fuel pump, ICP,rebuilt FPR, change fuel filter, pulled and cleaned the fuel tank (metal tank, no delamination, looks perfect inside). Pickup screen looked good. Cleaned the IPR, cleaned the hpop reservoir, there was no screen inside. Checked voltage at fuel pump, 11.78 across the pump with it running. Pulled valve covers, no noticeable leaks around injectors. Injectors have less than 5k miles. Remans with 100% larger tips.
To me it seems like the lpop is not keeping up with the hpop under load, starving it until you idle and let it catch up. Could it still be bad injector orings? Bad lpop? Something I'm not thinking of?
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I have a 2000 2wd with the 5.4 in it. I tow a travel trailer and loaded is 6500lbs. Today leaving the campground I had to climb an extremely steep hill as soon as you left the campground. No time to build speed. The old Ex made it, but I was definitely worried. The truck ran fine the rest of the 2 hours home. I went to back my camper into its spot to store, and smoke started coming out from under the hood. When I crawled under it, tranny fluid was leaking on the ground. A pretty steady drip. I let it cool down, added fluid and drove around. Didn't leak anymore. Did the tranny just get hot and had to burp? The drip was coming from where the tranny connects to the motor.
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I had an intermittent heater blower problem for a few years. Yesterday it turned into a full time heater blower problem. I unplugged the connector to the fan motor, and ran a power feed and ground to the fan motor terminals. It blows strong! I located the low speed relay under the glove box. I switched it with the adjacent horn relay, like was suggested. No go! What else can it be?
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A little background info...up until about 6 months ago my 01 Ex V10 was a grocery getter for the wife; only got a few thousand miles a year for the most part. Since we moved from Washington state to Texas it has turned into my daily driver (after a 2500 mile drive towing 8k trailer).
A couple of weeks ago we were running errands and after we got home there was smoke coming from under the hood, but I couldn't pin point it. I let it be because I figure it would let me know when something was really wrong. A few days later it did it again but this time I found the problem; transmission fluid was leaking out of the bell housing onto the y-pipe. I did my research and come to find out it is most likely the front pump seal that got soft from overheating. So my buddy and I drop the transmission and replace the seal. Put it all back together and everything seems great.
Another week goes by and we have driven the Ex fairly extensively around town and even took a couple short day trips and everything is great. Then as we are turning onto an on ramp to get on the highway I give it gas to speed up and all of a sudden the RPMs climb like it dropped into neutral. I had enough momentum that I got over onto the shoulder and started to check thing under the hood. Looked like I was low on trans fluid; ok so I added a quart. Put it in "D" and still nothing. Then I try "1", "2", "R" and they all work fine.
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I was driving to the store today and about halfway there the truck kept the same rpms but I was losing speed. The wrench lit up on the dash, checked the tuner (nothing out of the ordinary) so i pulled into the nearest parking lot and shut her down. The tuner is just there for my dpf delete and is set to "no power" or stock settings. It's a bully dog triple something or other. I don't race the truck or work it very hard for that matter. Basically a work truck that hauls more people than trailers.
Lifted the hood, checked the tranny fluid level and the stick was dry as a bone. Thing is, it's winter here and i haven't noticed any transmission fluid leaks anywhere ever. I'm gonna head to the local (two hour drive one way) parts store for fluid in the morning with my dads truck.
I'm wondering where it went? did it burn up or leak out and I didn't notice? Just wondering where to look first when i get it back home. Or did i simply fail in my maintenance checks (i admit i change my oil and fuel filters religiously but haven't checked the trans fluid) and it ran out??
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OK; I give up. How do I check the trans. fluid level on my 2010 F150 6 spd. auto trans????? I see that there is NOT a dipstick in the engine compartment.
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Car is 2000 Corolla 4-spd auto at 65k miles (bought used 3 years ago). Replace CV axles about 1.5 years ago.
When I backed out today, I saw a red fluid in the snow. Also, my trans fluid has been slowly declining (I've been adding more in).
Where is it likely to leak from? Is the only place the output shaft seals? Would the mechanic be able to spot it out easily?
I saw some posts where the entire gearbox had to be removed (but i think that was for a manual trans)..I hope that doesn't apply to autos.
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I have a 2006 Scion XB I purchased last year. Last week the air was blowing cold in town and then blowing warm at highway speed. I took it to my mechanic who charged the system (said it was a pound low) and said he did not detect any leaks. Now suddenly it stops blowing cold altogether. Not all the time. It blows cold in the morning. Then in the afternoon when I leave work it blows hot. But I can stop the car a few miles down the road, turn the car off, start it back up, and it blows cold....
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2000 Excursion 7.3 unk transmission
Quick run down on the situation. It has been terribly hot here bumping 105 degrees. I was told by a man he could see fluid leaking and it was trans fluid. I checked it and filled it up and got it to the shop.
Next day they said it was not leaking and that it probably overheated. They recommended an after market trans cooler. They put it in and off I went. 60 miles later I got fluid all over the rear of the truck. I filled it up again and got it home. Shop says I need a new trans.
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Our family has a 2003 Accent with 94k, automatic, and one very weird issue besides the teen that drove it last. Ok, towed it home, thought the battery or starter was bad. Replaced starter, battery. Same problem, won't turn over. When you turn the key, engine advances about one inch at a time, meaning the flywheel rotates one inch on each key turn. Ok, here is the weird part: Smoke drifts out of the transmission near the access plate between the trans and the engine! Like there is a smoldering fire inside? The wire off of the battery terminal that goes to the fuse block gets very hot as well. Where do I start? What it is, unless the torque converter is stuck or some solenoid is burned up?
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Been barely driving my super duty due to it having a multitude of issues. So working on getting this thing back to some semblance of running decently and it has been smoking whitish blue, oil smoke out the exhaust. Not constantly, intermittently as far as I can tell.
If I drive it at highway speeds for 5-10 minutes then slow down it will smoke for about 10-15 seconds pretty heavily. Yesterday I got off the beltway after running for 15 minutes, it didn't seem to be smoking, but about 1 mile to 1 and half miles later, pulled into a convenience store and it was like I was spraying for mosquitoes for about 20 seconds then cleared up.
Truck seems to be running strong. Turbo doesn't seem to have any play side to side or in and out(according to Baltimore Performance Diesel who I don't necessarily trust at all [ I will explain my reasoning on that some other time, but let's just say, one of the reasons involves a rear main seal diagnosis... I digress] but I assume they are correct on that, I haven't looked myself. So what are some other possible answers, rings I would think would be fairly constant but I could be wrong there.
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I drained the transmission fluid on my 2000 f250. I measured the fluid at about 6 quarts. I refilled with 6 quarts. I drove until the engine was hot and checked the fluid while running in park. Each time I check it I get a different reading on the dipstick. I wipe off the dipstick each time but sometimes I pull it out and it reads low. The next try it shows about 1/2 inch over full on the dipstick. Can't get two consistent readings. Is it harmful if it is a little over or under full?
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I have a 4 cylinder 2000 Camry that I recently took to the shop because my check engine light was on and it was blowing out a puff of white smoke when the car first starts. I was told it was an EGR problem and this is what I had fixed:
"Upon client approval, remove and replace defective EGR Bypass Vacuum Valve with new (OE) EGR Bypass Vacuum Valve. Test drive vehicle following service to confirm proper operation. Warranty on parts and labor is 2 years or 20,000 miles (whichever comes first). Warranty valid at FIXCARNOW locations only. "
The problem is my car is still blowing out smoke, the check engine light is off, but it is having the same problems it did before. My concern is that either they didn't properly diagnose the problem,even though they ran a full diagnostic on the car, or just didn't fix it.
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My van just started to have this issue today with jerking real hard like its dropping a couple of gears while going between 50-60mph. It is a 2000 with the flex fuel 3.3L 4 speed auto.When this happens the spedo will go from 55mph to 40 instantly while keeping a steady speed and it feels like the tranny is going to rip right out. This will happen every 5 to 10 min but go back to normal driving after 3 sec and has not popped any codes. It runs like a top and all fluids are at the correct levels. I have to commute 50 miles a day to work so i really need to figure this out!!!
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Recently I did 2 drain and fills on my elantra HD with 112k miles about 2 weeks apart on the transmission replacing the fluid with Valvoline Maxlife atf. When checking the fluid level it smells burnt but still has a red color to it. Any body else used this fluid for extended amounts of time?
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I have a 1997 Ford F-150 XLT 4x4 with the 4.6W and a 4R70W trans. For the past year is has been leaking trans fluid and has slowly got worse and worse. At first the truck would only leak at high speeds (when driving on the interstate for extended periods of time) and now It has gotten to the point where I am adding close to a quart of fluid a week. ( roughly about a quart every 300 miles!). I thought that it was the pan gasket leaking at first, so I flushed the trans fluid (dropped the pan and drained the TC and put on a new filter) put a new gasket on and torqued it all down and added some new Valvoline max life fluid. The first trip in the truck I noticed a puddle of fluid under the truck again.
The pan looked like it could have been a little warped, so I ordered a new pan and a new FoMoCo gasket (the one the came with the new filter was the cheap felt type). I thought I for sure had fixed the truck this time, but I drove it and once again it was still leaking. I checked all that I could before replacing the pan and gasket. I checked the trans cooler lines and fittings (no leaks) I pulled the inspection plug and it was dry (so I ruled out the front pump or TC leaking). The whole underside of the truck is covered with fluid so it is hard to pin point the leak, but most of the fluid drips down on the transmission cross member.
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Its a 2001 jetta vr6, 5 speed, electronic seats all leather with wood trim panels, and I am having quite the issue. When you turn on the car it has a rough idle around 600rpm but doesn't die out. it smokes like a banshee, white smoke. if you come back later and start it, no smoke until you give it gas. some times it doesn't smoke at all. misfire cyl 6 and 5, used to have 4 misfires but spark plugs did me justice, maf sensor low voltage output, bank 1 sensor 2 02 something or another, when i first got it, it would just chug and not smoke at all. the better its running, the more smokes it produces it seems. none of my coils have the rubber graumet around them anymore and all seem to be pretty shot regardless. I have no leaks underneath the car, coolant has no oil mixture in it all all, no visible leaks on the headgasket, and most of the time the smoke smells like gas, but its purely white. I am just wondering what could cause it, im trying to feel out more options before getting drunk and doing a headgasket. no oil loss, no coolant loss.
[URL] .....
video of the smoke.
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I noticed that if i'm turning my car on for the first time in a day (12-24 hours) on a hot day (80F + ) , the compressor on the AC doesn't kick on for about 3-4 minutes. It just blows out hot air for those first few minutes. Once it kicks on and i turn the car off and then on again some time during the day the compressor kicks on right away and cold air starts to blow normally.
My RX350 pumps out cold air almost asap, and so did my accord. My AC seems to have a musty smell if it hasn't been turned on in a few days either. it goes away as soon as air starts moving. How do I get rid of this permanently?
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I've got a 2000 Suburban 1500 4WD with the Auto 4WD. I'm running into a vibration at highway speeds along with a clicking sound at idle speed which speeds up and slows down with speed. I've discovered the u-joint on the front drive shaft where it connects with the transfer case is worn and has play in it. Could this cause the vibration?
Also, The front drive train spins any time the vehicle is motion, which is to say the front drive shaft spins as the truck goes down the road, correct?
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