S-10 :: 2000 Chevy Shut Off Suddenly - No Sputtering
May 17, 2014
I have 2000 S10 SFI 2.2L 4Cy...It was running fine, and my wife was on her way home from work and it shut off on her going down the road. No sputtering or anything, it just shut off. I got a tester on it, and I'm getting no codes. I asked a couple of people, and several suggested it was the ICM, but no go after replacing. My next thought is the coil packs or even the fuel pump relay considering I don't hear the pump kick on now.
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I recently purchased a 2000 f250 with a 7.3. I'm new to diesel motors and new to super dutys so
Problem; had been driving for an hr and truck, which was running fine shut off like someone turned the fuel off. Check engine light came on, motor cranked but wouldn't start Back up. After an hr or so it fired back up and ran fine. This happened several times until now it will not start on it's own. I use a quick shot of starting fluid it fires right up and runs fine. Have run the truck for 1/2hr or so driving it and no issues except check engine light staying on. Shut it off and it will not start again without starting fluid, which I've only used 2x and sparingly. Generic code reader says no codes.
Is it vapor lock? Under valve cover plugs connection?
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My trailblazer started with the spitting and sputtering (misfiring) last week. Over 100,000 miles on it, ya, in need of a tune up. So for obvious reasons new spark plugs seemed to be the logical choice. If it wasn't the problem, it can't hurt to change them. Truck's SES light did not come on, but truck was running pretty crappy, more when it was cold than hot, but definetely a loss of power. There is also a slight exhaust leak starting, where abouts right now I haven't pinpointed, deaf in one ear so it's hard to tell where it is coming from.
So I had my brother in law install the new spark plugs. We took the old ones out and 4 and 5 cylinder plugs had oil on them. Ah great, valve cover gasket and the gaskets the spark plugs sit on (don't ask me, not a mechanic lol) need to be changed. Started with just the plugs for now. Started truck up, still had a bit of vibration on idle, like it would from an exhaust leak, but still didn't seem right . But an even more noticable loss of power when driving, truck doesn't seem to want to get above forty.
Now my SES light is flashing almost consistently unless I'm stopped (idled). It almost feels like the cat is clogged. Did smell a heavier than normal gas smell when changing out the plugs. I know that the flashing SES almost certainly means a misfire. But why would it all of a sudden come on after changing the plugs? Tomorrow I am going to my friends garage who has the scanner tool (not just the one that reads codes) to see if it is a bad coil pack and to see if there is a specific cylinder that is misfiring.
But there is something about that exhaust leak that is leading me to believe it is the culprit of my problems. Leak came first, then the misfiring. Could the cat be clogged, which blew a hole in the exhaust and cause a misfire? And the new plugs just made the misfiring worse to cause the SES light to come on? Is there anything else I should check besides a faulty coil pack and compression check (even though I should have done that when I changed the plugs, but live and learn).
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1999 Chevy Blazer, 4.3L V6, 173,447 miles
Working on his 1999 Blazer that he just bought, it has an electrical problem.....the gauges are inop, and the engine wont shut down and the 4X4 wont engage unless the headlight switch is turned on and in some instances the high beams must be on. We have replaced the high beam multi switch, the headlight switch and the ignition module. We suspect that it might be a bad ground or the interior light module.
We just replaced the engine the other day but the problem existed prior to the motor swap.
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I have a 1999 chevy s10 2.2 L that just shut down while driving, I have replaced crank shaft sensor, ecm, ignition control module, coil packs and still having issues, she will start now but won't stay running, what else it could be, it has been down for almost 5 months.
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We have a 2004 Honda civic and we are having a bit of issue. I am not sure what is wrong but my dad thinks it may be the alternator. I would drive down the road and the dash lights and the gauges would shut off and five minutes later the car would act like its out of gas and sputtering down the road. took it to pepboys and they replaced the positive terminal and two belts. found out the wrong battery was installed at walmart long story short...we got a new battery and drove about 200 miles and it did the same thing....the hood prop was resting on the positive terminal and was arcing my hood. could it be the alternator or more of an electrical problem due to the arcing?
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I have a 94 ranger and all of a sudden it started sputtering, i can hear a vacuum leak behind the intake manifold found what appears to be a pcv valve not hooked up is that the way it's supposed to be?
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I was going 65-70MPH on the highway and the engine suddenly shut down. I pulled over on the shoulder and tried to restart but the engine would start for a second then dies again. I tried several times but it would not start. Waited 10 min and tried again with no luck. I called a towing service and a friend to pick me up. The towing guy called me 40 min later and said the car starts fine. I have driven it for couple days since and tried to recreate the problem (warming the engine, accelerating hard to 5000 RPM, stop and go situation) but the car runs great. No problem whatsoever with power or jittering or unstable idle or starting the car.I talked to 2 mechanics and they both think it is the fuel pump failing. But I am not convinced since I could smell gasoline when I was trying to start it.I have no check engine light on and I checked for recorded codes with my BT OBDII tool – nothing.
Do you think it might be CPS? Wouldn’t I get check engine light on if it is CPS?
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I have a 2006 Ford Expedition that runs perfectly with one exception, It will shut off all of a sudden. I can be driving down the highway or in town and all of a sudden it will just stop running. This has happened twice in the past six months. So far I have been able to get to the side of the road safely.the vehicle will immediately start and run perfectly as if nothing has happened. No error codes.
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I own a 2003 Chrysler town and country. I was driving home and all of a sudden the car just shut off. I coasted to the side of the road and tried to restart and nothing. The warning signals( i.e., seat belt etc.) came on normal but when I turned the key nothing no sound. I have no clue as to what is wrong with it. Had it towed home and here it sits.
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On Monday, I was driving my 03 Ford Taurus. I had my cruise set at 57mph, all the sudden I started slowing down. I pushed the gas to the floor to try speeding up, but I kept slowing down. The car never shut off. I still had all of the electronics and the motor was still running, had my power steering as well. I pulled over and shut the car off. I started it back up and continued down the road and it happened again. Same thing, slowed down and pressing the gas and no speed. This happened 5 times within 65 miles. I got to my destination and was there for about 15 minutes, when I made the return trip. On my way home, I didn't experience this issue at all. What the cause may be?
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2000 Ls V6, 145,000 miles, Ok the other morning I start up, and sitting waitng for it to idle down, when it does it starts to sputter like its gonna die, so I hit the gas kinda rev it up a bit, and it's fine, it drives fine with no problems, however I was sitting in it today and reved it up at around 3,000 rpms it starts to sputter, but I punched it on the way home and no problems, put it back in park and reved it up and it did it again around 3,000 rpms.
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I was sitting at the light waiting for it to turn green and all of a sudden the engine shut of with all of the check engine lights come on, it stop fast and hard like someone just turned the ignition off. What can cause this? I turned the key to the off position and it started right up agin and has been no problem all week, but I am worried about driving it right now.
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I purchased a new 2015 last month and have less than 700 miles on it. Thus far I love the vehicle. However, last night, I had just left my driveway and was proceeding at about 30 mph when I was forced to brake suddenly but not enough to come to a complete stop. The engine shut off, so I put the vehicle in park and restarted.
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Okay, So this has happened to me about five times now over the past year or so. I will be driving and my car will literally shut off. yesterday, I was driving on the freeway and was just cruising at 75mph when all of a sudden out of no where my car makes a big jolt and then the rpm's go from around 3k to 0. I have had this in the shop for this problem many times and no one can really seem to figure out what is wrong. when my car shuts off while im driving, the oil light comes on, traction control light comes on, as well as the battery light. What's even more weird about this problem is once the car stops, if i try to start it right away it wont fire up... It will just roll over. But. if I wait for a while the car starts and drives normal with all the lights off. This is not only annoying but very dangerous.
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Two weeks ago, my '05 Malibu suddenly shut off as I started up from a light. I was low on gas and assumed that was the problem. I went straight to a gas station & filled up, and it seemed like everything was ok. However, twice in the last 3 days, it has happened again (with plenty of gas in the tank)--once going uphill on a highway and once rolling along at 30 mph on a city street. The engine and traction control lights come on and the message center says "Engine disabled" or "engine power reduced". I tried driving slowly with "power reduced" but it immediately switched to "disabled" and shut off. So far, if I pull over, shut everything off, and wait for a minute, I can start it again and drive on with no problem.
My dad has an '04 Impala with a somewhat similar problem, but instead of shutting off, it won't start. Nothing happens when you turn the key. If you wait about 20 minutes, it will often start and run fine. He had the engine computer replaced and it was great for a few months, but now the problem is back. He can often tell when it's going to have an 'episode' because either the security or traction control message will come up. Is this the same issue my Malibu has? What issue does my Malibu have?
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98 Ford Escort (150k miles) died suddenly when I was going in reverse (parking) after a 100minute trip between 7 and 9 am. The entire electrical shut down after going about 30 ft in reverse.I checked all the fuses and they look OK. The alternator has about 2 years on it. The battery is used up but still works in warm climates.
Now, when i turn the ignition, no diagnostic lights turn on inside. I can only get it to do a warning audio beep on the first section turn of the ignition (warning that door is open). Electrical door locking makes a trying sound but no action. The headlights turn on when i flash the high beams.
This is a very tough problem because it's electrical. This car has had no mechanical issues and I take care of it, even driving no more than 65mph and avoiding day driving (due to heat). What could it possibly be? I have never even imagined a problem like this.
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1997 F150 4x4 4.6. Truck was running fine ...suddenly shut down & now no spark, no fuel pump run, no start
1. Shot ether -no start
2. pulled plug - no spark
3. Checked crank sensor - reading .5 - .6
4. Checked fuel inertia switch - seems good
5. Switched fuel relays - no change
Thinking ECM/PCM. Also.. ?? will the "no spark" condition create a "no fuel pump run" condition ? or visa versa? I'm not positive about the reading from the crank sensor... it stays solid at .5... should it move up & down or remain constant ?
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Its not my car (its my father in laws). The other day his 05 prius (170k miles) shut off while he was driving. He pushed it home and I sent him a link on how to check the 12v battery. He said it showed it was low so he used his golf cart battery to go and take it for a test drive to see if that fixed the problem. In the drive way at idle his hybrid battery charge went up half way but when he went to drive it he got 1/8th of a mile down the road and it dropped to 0 then the car shut off again. He said the display says something about the battery (I haven't been over to look at the car).
They are sure its the hybrid battery, but if it was me I'd go to the dealer and find out for sure. My husbands aunt had her hybrid battery go out and hers did other things, like go into turtle mode and a/c blew hot. I think her inverter pump went out and she kept driving it till the battery got messed up, but anyway...What does my father in laws symptoms sound like? Is there any extra at home testing that can be done?
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Ok after rebuilding trans and being down a couple of weeks, I went on my 1st run since completing. Noticed when I started truck this morning it didn't turn over as fast as it was. 30 miles down the road Airbag Light comes on, and then volt meter dropped to 8 volts. Got stopped with truck still idling checked everything I had the tools to do so for. Decided to get back to my shop where I had tools, and 5 more miles and 55 mph truck just shuts off. Lost all power, truck would only click. Put my booster box on battery and gauges went back to normal but still wouldn't turn over but maybe once? Only place within a mile of my location was Walmart. Bought 2 new group 65 batteries, installed them and Shazam cranked right up no more problems. Short of the story bad batteries that checked Good with a load tester don't mean squat!
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I have an Hyundai Accent Petrol 1.6L ABS.
While driving the other day suddenly the car started sputtering or jerking while on low rpm and after changing gears
the exhaust is also making sputtering sounds when on idle.
when I press the accelerator the sputters/jerks and then picks up rpm. the performance of the car does not seem to be affected but petrol mileage has fallen.
when I accelerate slowly then the sputtering/jerking is reduced and sometimes not present much. There is also a deep and heavy sound of the engine running heard inside the car (which has been present before the timing belt change)
I took the car to the workshop and attached the OBD.
the codes P0340 P0112 were present. we now erased the codes and the mechanic checked the sensor wire plugs for the cam sensor and air sensor saying it looks fine. on attaching the OBD again the codes were not present. However the sputtering/jerking continues. (the fuel pump and filter were also checked to be ok)
My Timing belt has been changed approximately a month back. My car does not run much (Approx 40kms a day)
My questions are
1. can a bad timing of the timing belt have anything to do with this and thus giving these codes?
2. Can there be something wrong with the exhaust due to which this problem is taking place?
3. what could be possibly wrong with the car?
4. Can this result in any damage to the engine?
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