S-10 :: 1999 Blazer Jump / Miss And Won't Get Over 55 Mph
Jan 14, 2013
I have a 99 blazer that was running fine then the intake gasket blew so i took it to our shop and we put the gasket set on and put it back together went and drove it it didn't really have any power when you get it to 2000 rpm then it died on me that problem was the connector to the coil was loose go drive it again still no power around 2 grand and it starts to buck and jump and miss and wont get over 55 mph we thought the timing was off so we advanced it it ran a lot better but put the code p1345 timing to high code we then retard the timing runs the same as the begin rough then it put the code p0101 maf sensor in there we put a maf on it go drive it it does a lot better runs alot smoother but now puts a egr code in it then if you drive it awhile it starts acting up again then puts the p0101 code back in.
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I have a 99 blazer with 4.3 vortec that I've been working on. It ran rough since then we've replaced fuel pump, filter, distributor cap, rotor button, plugs and wires. Also coil, distributor, crank sensor 5v, map sensor and still no spark but fuel pressure is 60psi. We put fuel pump on and filter ran ok for 2 days then shut off and had no spark so replaced crank sensor and ran good for few days and same thing again no spark so replaced coil and ran good for few days and same thing no spark. So yesterday i put new distributor and map sensor and it started and ran perfect. Took it home and this morning i started it and drove to end of driveway and it died and again no spark. I am at a loss and don't know what else to check or replace..
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Have a 99 chrysler t&c. The engine seems to be in good shape an starts reliably if the battery is not dead, even at 10f below. The problem is that every once in a while the battery looses the charge for an unknown reason . The car turns over slowly and the solenoid chatters in and out. Happens several times a month; I've started carrying a spare battery with a fair amount of reserve capacity and 4 ga. cables. Even then, it is iffy as to whether the car will start. It cranks slowly and the solenoid may still drop out.
This has happened even over a short period of time such a s grocery shopping.
I researched one of those lithium battery packs that can be inserted into the cigarette lighter. My understanding is that the emergency pack has to recharge the main battery for some time. It makes sense that you don't want to run starting current through the aux. voltage outlet.
Should I be letting the spare battery recharge the main battery for a few or more minutes?
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My 99 ranger has a strange issue its got a miss when the A/C is on, when going down the road I can feel the engine sorta pulse for a second, gets better the more I drive it, its got all new plugs and wires, not sure where else to look?
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Vehicle turns over, but does not start. I do not hear the fuel pump when the vehicle is switched on. Fuel pump was replaced back in December 2010.
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I have a 99 b5 wagon 1.5 5sp and my cruise works when it wants to. I play with it constantly while on the highway and it's hit or miss. Are there any know problems with the switch or other part that could make this an easy fix? the cruise seems to work fine when i can get it to work.
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My 5.4 had a bad miss several months back with no cel. It would barely climb hills it never even needed extra throttle on before (3rd gear, wide open, 35 mph, etc). Ford dealer ran a scan and it had two bad coils and plugs. I changed those and it ran much better, but still had a "pfft pfft" exhaust leak type sound at idle. I checked the exhaust studs and they were all good, so I wrote it off as just a normal exhaust leak.
Full throttle in 5th gear to maintain speed limit when normal throttle before was sufficient. I got home and parked it and it sat over night. I went to start it today and it died. Tried again, died again. It only stays running if I am pressing the gas and I hear a fluttering or air sound of some kind coming from the passenger's side of the engine. It doesn't cut out or miss like a bad coil or plugs, but like you choked off the air supply.
All plugs are still in place, exhaust studs look good, tried it with the air box unhooked to see if it got clogged, and going to check intake leak tomorrow...
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1999 Chevy Blazer, 4.3L V6, 173,447 miles
Working on his 1999 Blazer that he just bought, it has an electrical problem.....the gauges are inop, and the engine wont shut down and the 4X4 wont engage unless the headlight switch is turned on and in some instances the high beams must be on. We have replaced the high beam multi switch, the headlight switch and the ignition module. We suspect that it might be a bad ground or the interior light module.
We just replaced the engine the other day but the problem existed prior to the motor swap.
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Having problems with 1999 or later 7.3 missing or dying when you turn on the wiper switch?
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I've been having my 'service engine soon' light turn on in my 1999 Chevy Blazer. It has an automatic transmission and 60,000 miles. I first disconnected the battery to turn off the light and to see if it would turn on again. It turned on again so I took it to AutoZone for an obd2 scan and got codes P0300 and P0442. I replaced the spark plugs and spark plug cables and the light turned off, but then turned back on after a week. I'm starting to think the problem is something simple like the gas cap.
The rubber film around the cap has a few tears, but are the tears significant enough to cause the light to turn on?
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99 2.0 jetta. Getting oil on crank position sensor making it miss. Is it the rear main seal? Only reason I can think to have oil around the flywheel... How hard is a rear main seal to change out....
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Got a 2001 F350 diesel auto, 295k miles.
It has miss when over 2000rpm. Below 2000 its smooth.
ICP has oil in sensor, ordered new one. Gonna change oil too.
CPS is new (not sure if its black or the other one). Starts idles and drives good otherwise.
Where should I look?
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Think i have an exhaust leak in a 1999 s10 blazer lt 4x4 4 door. the loudest spot where i can hear the exhaust noise at cold start and idle, is the passenger side right behind the front tire. on cold mornings where you can see the exhaust smoke prior to warming up i cannot see anything coming from this area. non mechanic types have suggested either the y pipe, or where the y pipe meets the header. Would both have to be replaced to fix this problem if this is the case? and how intensive is this to fix? meaning would the whole motor have to be pulled to remove the entire exhaust piping to have it brazed? my dad is a mechanic, so the tools I've got and his know-how, just need to know what to do? Any definitive way to tell where an exhaust leak is, beyond having a friend cup their hand over the tail pipe, while they look for it..
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Did my starter yesterday. Today now several times, truck ran rough and stalled. Turned over, tach not bumping, no codes. Would go after a couple tries. Stuffed a new CPS into it. Drive 30 miles, now has a noticable miss, no codes, no smoke and quit again, but started right up.
No codes. Does not feel like another truck and under valve cover gaskets.
1999 7.3 Super duty!
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2010 f250 cc 5.4 145000 miles. I bought it last fall have not drove it a lot. When using the cruise control and a load is added grade or hill in the roadway. It jerks hesitates or miss then cleans up and runs fine. When using the accelerator it does not do this. No codes.... Thinking about changing the plugs.
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Took the beast out for a good road trip to try out the new tires. She is running good now, but has picked up a weird miss which cause the truck to shudder. It does feel and sound just like a miss, I know that it is a diesel but that is only way to describe it.
When driving along with the cruise set at 75, when I hit a hill, the truck will gradually accelerate, and it will miss a beat. Just like you turned it off and right back on very fast. Usually once, twice if the hill is long. If I accelerate harder it will not do it. Most often does it while gradually moving accelerator.
Has new fuel filter ad cam sensor.. Runs great the rest of the time.
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I have a 2000 F350 cab and chassis 4X4 with V10 and a 5 speed manual (actually it's a 4 speed with overdrive). My problem is the engine seems to have a miss in it. When I first start it in the morning it usually runs good for 5+ miles till it warms up then if I am not pulling a load I can hear what sounds like a miss but the truck accelerates fine. If I am pulling a load I can also feel a slight steady consistent shudder and I can tell the truck doesn't have the power it should and the gas mileage SUCKS worse than it use to.
I ran a bottle of Lucas deep clean through a tank of fuel and that seemed to work a little but I will still encounter the problem sometime during the day. When the miss seems to be gone I can hear a very slight pinging noise when I accelerate or pull a hill with and/or with out a load. The pinging noise I hear sounds like an engine with a distributor that is getting to much spark advance if you have ever experienced that before.
I purchased this truck used several years ago and I don't know what the PO did but the check engine light is not coming on and it doesn't throw a code. I put 10 new ford coil packs on it about a year ago so I really don't think it's a coil pack, but I could be wrong. To me it sounds like maybe it an injector problem????? I know there are several sensors on this engine and I am thinking maybe a crank position sensor is not working right but I honestly don't know???? Is there a way to test this sensor?
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I have a 2000 F-250 V10 that misses (cylinder 10) at the idle, once you give it gas it runs correctly again. I am at a loss. I have replaced the plug, tried moving coils from one cylinder to another to see if it shifts the miss, and it has new injectors. What this could be?
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1999 Ranger 4.0. I have an issue with my ranger. Sometimes the truck runs awesome.While driving along the truck will miss and sputter and buck, when this happens, I almost can't maintain my speed. Sometimes when this happens if I put the truck in neutral and shut it off and restart it. The problem will temporarily go away. Occasionally it will go away on its own. When it goes away on its own it's like someone flipped a switch and all power is returned and running smooth. When the truck is at idle it depends on the mood of the truck, sometimes it's fine and other times it wants to die. I got to make this truck last awhile longer.
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Engine will start and run but will miss in a pull and die sometimes but will start back, we hooked it to a scanner and it said (intake wiring) it wasn't a dealer hook up just a gas station garage, we have already done plugs and wires.
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I have a 2003 f350 v-10 drove it yesterday to get fuel, went to start it after fueling. No start, no lights dash was gauges were acting odd, and clicking under dash from behind fuse box. did get it to start after a while, put my foot on brake to go into drive, never made it ... truck died I do have remote start system thought it was that with the brake pedal issue. disconnected complete system. no change
Had it towed, home now no nothing, connect battery and just clicking from under dash no start ? not battery, wont even jump
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