l have a 98 s10 with the "x" code 4.3l. While driving the cel started flashing and it lost all power. after got home i scanned the codes and revealed a MAF sensor error. replaced the maf sensor, which did not work. Then replaced the cap, rotor, and wires as they were burned through. This made the truck run fine when given gas, but makes a knocking sound at idle and stalls.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2002 1.8T with about 75k miles which makes a harsh rhythmic sound at idle after about 30 minutes of driving. If I tap the accelerometer to increase the rpm and release it goes away and is silent. Recently it also seems to be making the same sound when it starts but goes away as soon as I drive. The sound seems to be coming from the front lower right (passenger side).
I have changed the timing belt about 18 months ago (along with the water pump, tensioner, etc. using an ECS tuning kit) and it ran fine (seemed even smoother than before) but it had a small engine oil leak which my mechanic fixed. I think this sound started after he repaired the leak. I've left the car with him for a week and he just called and said it he couldn't figure it out but it could be an oil pressure problem but I have not had any issues with an oil pressure light.
I have had issues with the P0411 code over the same and have replaced both the secondary air pump and the combi valve but the code just reappeared and my mechanic says he has checked the entire system again and can't figure out what is causing the problem. Not sure if the two can be related but just thought I would add that. The car runs fine otherwise and I have always used synthetic and the large oil filter but I am beginning to think this could be a sludge issue (the noise).
I have recently noticed that my Azera makes a "knocking" sound right after starting the engine. It just about a dozen of fast short knocks one after another and it is gone after 2 seconds (like a diesel engine started on low temp. It appears more often when the engine is rather cold.
View 27 Replies1998 mercury tracer-
Car doesn't start, makes no sound at all when key is turned. After removing the key, engine light and shift light stay illuminated and the gps plugged into lighter stayed on. Normally there is no power to lighter with ignition off and key out. Headlights don't come on and remote entry doesn't work.
We tried to jumpstart-still doesn't start or make any sound at all. But the two dash lights went out once the cables were hooked to other battery. After disconnecting, dash lights remained off as well as power at lighter.
Battery voltage is 12.16v and it's only 2.5 years old.
Could it just be a bad battery?Does the fact we couldn't jumpstart it indicate a problem other then the battery?
My 1998 Jimmy SLE 4.3L is having issues starting. The vehicle will start but then stop when it settles down to the idle rpm. When i turn the key I get a fuel pressure of around 52-54psi and i can hear the fuel pump running. The odd time when I can get the vehicle to run I get a fuel pressure of 55psi and the engine runs better than it ever has. Since the problem started I have changed the following:
Cap and Rotor
Spark Plugs and Wires
PCV valve
Fuel Filter
No codes showed during a scan and the problem occurs often but occasionally it will start without a problem. My last thought it would be a fuel pump or a fuel pressure regulator. Again, I can hear the fuel pump activate when i turn the key and the fuel pressure is just below 55psi when i turn the key.
I have a 98 F150, 4.2 V-6, 183,000 miles.. Lately, she's been loping at idle. Especially while in gear... almost stalls. Once revved up, everything seems normal. Still goes up hills fine if I get on the gas. The light was on, and I got codes for lean condition on both banks.. (P0174, P0175).
I already cleaned all the sensors in front of the intake.
The MAF was real dirty, and the IAC was full of soot too.
They both cleaned up nicely, but it didn't work.
I borrowed a fuel pressure gauge yesterday, and it showed 12 psi with the "key on, engine off".
It showed 29-30 @ idle, and only went up to 35 when I revved it a little.
The guy at the store said the range is supposed to be "30-45 psi with the ignition on", but I'm not sure if that means engine running or not..?
Either way, it looks like the pressure is on the low side, so I'm going to change the fuel filter next (and hope for the best).
If the fuel filter doesn't fix it, what should I go after next? And, is there a way to test the fuel pressure regulator before buying a new one?
My 98 lumina seems to make a knocking/bouncing sound in the right rear wheel well when I brake. It never happens when I'm braking driving in the city (25 mph or so) but it happens when I'm closer to 40mph and up.
I thought it might've been a drum brake issue but I just had the brakes serviced about two or three weeks ago. It still does it. This isn't a new issue. It's something that's been going on for years.
1998 Honda Civic EX, automatic transmission, 145K miles. Purchased three weeks ago.
Newly purchased used car has a knock emanating from the left front axle area. It's a rotational thumping/knocking sound that occurs about every 360 degrees of the tire rotation and only in forward and backward full-lock left turns. The car also has a small vibration/wobble in the left front. It's been narrowed down to the CV half axle outer bearing. What is puzzling is left front knocking from the outer CV joint is usually associated with full-lock right turns (and vice-versa) However, the left front knocking/thumping only happens as stated above (full-lock left turns).
Recent front end parts replaced:
1) Left front hub assembly and bearing
2) Inner and outer tie rods on both left and right sides
3) Front left caliper
4) New front brake pads on both left and right sides
5) Automatic transmission 3 x 3 drain and fill + Lubegard red
So I drove my R kinda hard today (nothing more than i have in the past ) but i am now getting a knocking sound. It is faint when I am at idle and get a bit louder around 2-3k, then the exhaust over takes it. i checked and have oil.. but it is making the knock as if it were low.
View 8 RepliesI have an '09 LS 460 AWD and there is a very unlike Lexus knocking sound at idle to maybe up to 20mph. best way I can describe is to imagine a diesel engine at idle, and dilute it substantially. subtle but clearly there. i read here in CL that could be due to valves or such, but dealer insists it is because of the intentionally designed "oversized fuel pump and fuel injector" and completely normal.
View 7 Replies1999.5 gls vr6 ... 113k on the clock
Timing chain hasn't been changed yet .. Has new spark plugs & wires ..
Water pump was replaced & pulleys look fine ..
No CEL .. Yes there's oil in it.
I get a knocking sound at idle and it has absolutely no rhyme or rhythm which makes me think it's not a valve or rod(wouldn't that make a constant noise?). The sound comes from the passenger side floor board. Only happens at idle, and if you rev the engine, it will go away. Even if you don't rev the engine some times it goes away then comes back. Sometimes I hear it when i pull up to a red light real loud & most of the time the engine purrs like a kitten. I even sat in the car and told my dad when it was making the knocking/ticking noise and he went all over the top and bottom end with a mechanical stethoscope & heard absolutely nothing. Am I missing something obvious?
I have a 2011 xlt crew cab with the 5.0 v8.I have noticed a knocking sound at idle, it happens when the engine is cold or at operating temp. It doesn't do it all the time but more often than not.
View 14 RepliesI have a 97 7.3 ... I've had it about 2 months now and now it wont start! It will start and idle for 2 seconds then start knocking and die! I had a buzz test ran on it and all is good. I also checked my Icp and checked my uvch harness with my multimeter. Before this it would run ok but seemed like it had a miss and a lack of power. On start up if i didn't have it plugged in it would smoke white smoke horribly. I am thinking maybe my IDM. I need my truck for work .... I had it hooked up to a scanner and it said faulty IDM.
View 1 RepliesMy 2000 Toyota Corolla is making a knocking sound that gets worse when the car is in idle and in drive. I have a feeling that it is dying, but is it unsafe?
View 8 RepliesSo was sitting at an idle in park and truck starts knocking, horrific sound. So shut checked oil, good, went to work came out 8 hours later, started up still knocked. Pulled into drive hit the pedal, knock went away, stopped at red light, knock came back...... Truck has been parked for 3 days, still knocks at an idle but soon as tap the pedal and give fuel it goes away... Tried unplugging injectors one at a time to eliminate, still had knock.
2003 auto, 4wd, studded,deleted, coolant filter, sct with innovative tunes 108,000 miles.
I now have an annoying "clatter" sound coming from my supercharger cone housing ONLY when the car is in gear and at idle (i.e.,: stop light,etc.).. Had a new serpentine belt replaced 6 months ago with new water pump.114K miles, great condition otherwise.
View 1 RepliesMy 2005 Ram 1500 makes a knocking noise (like a diesel) when i first start it up. The colder it is the louder it is. Once warm it is quite and i have no performance issues.
View 12 Repliesit was warmer the day than it usually was so it dosnt make the noise as bad however there is usually a lot of clatter/knock from the engine when cold. does it at idle and while accelerating. it gets less once the engine warms up but has been doing it for a while. car has 93k miles and synthetic oil is used. there is also a metal rattle sound almost like a heat shield that is loose. idk if that is part of the engine issue or not. but it only happens in winter or when temps fall below 60 degrees. kinda hard to hear on the vid but its there.
View 19 RepliesI have a 1999 Ford Explorer that when it starts in the morning sounds like a tractor and stalls out till it warms up after 5-10 minutes. This is of course wasting gas and I've replaced spark plugs and wires and 2 oxygen sensors. After the truck warms up it runs fine but it's very frustrating in the morning and good that I have a strong battery-check engine light is on-what could be the problem?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 Toyota Tacoma that has a knock or ticking in cold weather. The problem starts sometimes immediately after I start and other times it is only when I press on the gas in the cold mornings after a few min warm up. The noise goes away after 10 min. The question I am wondering is this:
1: could it be worn piston rings and the pistons are slapping the cylinder wall
2: is it an oil pump problem or a oil restriction issue
3: is it a valve guide issue
4: with the history of the 2.7 having exhaust manifold issues (poor manufacturing) could a cracked manifold be the issue
I change the oil myself, the oil filters have been OEM toyota, the noise has been going on since 60,000 miles, the truck is at 230,000 miles.
1998 Nissan Altima with 150,000. It has been well maintained and had many of the major repairs completed. There is still something wrong that annoys the heck out of me. When in "P"ark, the exhaust makes a pop, like there is too much or too little exhaust. It enough to be audible when I am in the front seat. The tach drops maybe 50-100 RPM when it pops. It happens maybe once every 30-60 seconds.
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