S-10 :: 1998 2WD - Grinding Noise In The Rear
Jun 13, 2014
My 98 s-10 2WD 4 cyl with 135K miles has been making this grinding noise in the rear. Sounds exactly like grinding from really worn out brakes.
video 1 with wheels on [URL] ....
video 2 with drums off [URL] ....
I can't tell where it's coming from. Both sides equal so I'm suspecting differential. Shop looked at it and came up with bad U-joint and recommended differential service. I fixed the u-joint. Fluid level ok in differential.
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Car Spec : VW Golf IV 1.6 SR 1998
Problem : I have a strange grinding noise coming from the front of the car. I can only hear it if all the windows are shut. The noise starts when the car starts moving, Doesn't matter if its in neutral or not, clutch pressed or depressed. The noise is there even if I switch off the engine whilst the car is still moving. It goes away when the car stops.
Yesterday I noticed that if I move the gear stick from left to right OR right to left in the neutral position (while the car is still moving), the noise increases!! What could be the potential problem? is it related to transmission? brakes? or wheel bearings?
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I have a '98 5-Speed Corolla. If I rev the engine when the car is in neutral and warming up I hear an odd grinding noise when I let off the gas and the engine goes down to idle. The noise does not occur if I put my clutch in. Is this something to worry about?
Also, I'm wondering what CV joints sound like when they're failing.
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I recently sold me 91 F-250 and got into a 98 F-150. It's a SuperCab 6.5' bed, 4x4 off-road, 3.55 gears, 5.4 v8 auto. I love the truck, but I am having an issue with a noise at startup.
Every time I start the truck it fires right up but it makes a grinding noise AFTER it starts for about 3-5 seconds. I thought the starter wasn't disengaging in time so I replaced it. The starter I took off was fairly new. It's teeth had just a little wear and the flywheel had no visible wear. I put in the new starter and there was no change at all.
I also changed the oil and filter using Motorcraft 5w-30 oil and a Motorcraft filter. I also started it without the serpentine belt to rule out a pulley bearing. What the noise could be? The truck runs absolutely excellent, by the way.
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I have a '98 Accord. It's got some issues and I am in the process of buying a new vehicle. But need to have a driveable car for work in the meantime. I have a torn boot on the front passenger side. Front brakes are also pretty worn down, not mention the Cat converter is shot and rusted. I'm getting a very loud, grinding noise when I turn to the left. Very loud noise. Some noise when turning to the right but not nearly as loud. My mechanic looked at the car a week ago and told me too many problems to fix the car, get a new one. which I am but it's taking some time. I'm just wondering if you think the car is likely safe enough to continue to drive until I get the new car. It's the loud grinding noise that freaks me out.
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For the last week or so been noticing as I'm slowing down, brake or no brake, a metallic, grinding noise coming from the rear passenger side. Does not sound like a humming worn wheel bearing noise. Its pretty loud, almost clunky and not always consistant. Then the last day or so have noticed it on the right side. At higher speeds....faintly hear a ticking... The car has 48K on it.
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I just recently I have been experiencing a rubbing/grinding noise from the rear right wheel, also it has made a clonking noise like a flat tyre but it isn't, I can hear the noise from about 25/30 mph when I go faster or slower i cant hear the noise.
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I have a 2000 reg Honda CRV and when the car has been run a few miles there's a grinding noise from the rear of the car, especially when decelerating it sound like the axle.
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I have a 2007 Camry I4 AT. I searched and most mention noise coming from brake, etc. I don't see noise being mentioned when car is parked.
With my Camry in P, if I push the car a little bit, even just getting in or out of the car, I can hear a metal grinding noise coming from the rear of my car. The brakes looks okay. If I engage the foot brake, the noise reduces but does not go away. The noise seems to come from the bottom rear.
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My car came back from the shop yesterday with new brakes and pads and seems to be making some odd noises, both at low speeds and while breaking. I called the shop this morning and they said that this sound was normal for awhile but to come back in a week if it persists. Is this sound advice, or should I be driving my car right back to the shop?
2005 Hyundai Tucson 122,000 miles
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So I'm driving to work and as I slow down to pay the toll I hear a weird grinding noise from the rear (sounds to be rear right) get out and check the crime scene. The plate is not rubbing on the rotor and there is nothing stuck between the rotor and the plate, so then i check the pad and they look pretty low, check the other side and looks the same, check the front and they r good n meaty. So can this mean I need new pads? The grinding noise goes and the car goes, the faster i go the faster the grinding noise goes, as i slow down it slows does..
Wanna make sure I get the problem right so I can fix it since I'm doing a Haldex oil service cause I also have the binding noise and then i gotta get the coolant flush done... hope all I need is pads... The noise goes away when I brake.
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I have a 67 Econoline supervan, and have been getting a grinding noise out of the rear end at certain rpm's. It's only under heavy load, when I'm first accelerating, that the noise comes out. Now here's the question, is this the wheel bearings, or my rear differential in dire need of attention? Now, the only thing I've done so far to remedy it is change the differential oil, to no avail.
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2003 Elantra GT ... Yesterday I went out and heard a sort of grinding noise from the rear. I thought it was the brakes. This morning I took it to a mechanic and he said it was the brake pad rubbing on some rust on the rotor.
This evening my wife took the car out and, in addition to the sound, said she smelled burning rubber. So I took it out and after a while figured out it is the bottom of wheel coil (see photo) on the rear driver side rubbing against the tire! I assume the mechanic didn't spot it because it may move out of contact with the tire when the car is lifted up. What happened here?
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I have noticed that when I turn my wheel on my Touareg, mostly sharp turn, I get a slipping/almost grinding noise. I am planning on driving cross country next week and this has me worried.
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My '98 Honda Civic hatch is making a rubbing or grinding type noise that seems to be coming from the right rear wheel. It only happens when I'm making a speedy left turn and is made worse when there's lots of weight in the back seat. My boyfriend who mostly knows what he's doing checked the wheel for play and any grinding of the wheel bearings and he thinks the bearings are fine. We also checked around the wheel for foreign objects and any obvious issues i.e. pieces of the car hanging off.
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I have 23, 400 miles on my Kia Sportage 2009 and just found out I need to replace both of my rear brakes.They were making grinding noise. Is this a defect? Seems like low mileage to have to replace them?Also my front brakes are down to 50%. Is this a known KIA issue?
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I bought this van (1995 chevy van 20) last year and the rear end made some sounds but not as bad as its now.
So, after buying it I decided to open up the rear end and inspect for any damage to suggest it needs repairs. No signs of metal chips, nicks, or any wear on the bearings and gears. After a while of driving it I decided to remove the carriage and pinion from the rear end to give it a close inspection. After doing this and finding no clear sign of war or damage, i decided to replace the carriage barrings to see if that made a difference. After placing the new bearings back on the carriage, pinion back into the rear differential, and trying to do it all by myself, i lost the marks i had placed on the carriage bolts and clamps since I had little time to get it back together.
After that I had no other choice but to place the clamps bolts where i could estimate they belong. I was done, then drove it and some of the noise went away but a grinding sound on decelerating emerged. Well, now that sound is gotten worst and its more like a grinding sound. I can assume that not placing back the bolts and carriage clamps back changed the position of the carriage relative to where it was, but am not 100% sure. how can I correct the positioning of the carriage? if that is not the issue what test can i perform to find the culprit?
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I have a 2005 Highlander that had repeated rear brake noise problem after the dealership serviced the brake in May this year. The sound was like dragging or grinding. After that, I brought my car back but the noise came up every time in 3-7 days. Here is the of the service record from the dealership:
5/31/2011: initial maintenance. Rotor resurfaced, pad replaced
6/17/2011: Adjustment and lubrication.
7/13/2011: Replaced the pad.
8/20/2011: Technician could not hear the noise during drive test. Ticket withdrawn.
8/26/2011: Tighten e-brake, lubrication.
Tech told me the left and right brakes were not balanced. I recorded the noise in the following Youtube video: [URL] .....
Turn volume up and notice the last two stops. What I should say to the dealership service? I plan to take the car back in a few days.
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My right rear brake is making a grinding noise when the brakes are applied. I took the drum off a couple weeks ago and the shoes are just a bit worn. Just getting into the numbers printed on the side of the shoe material.
I could not see any thing that would be making the metal on metal sound. Are there any wear indicators on the OEM shoes?
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I heard a grinding noise from one of my rear wheels. After investigating, I saw that the OUTER pad was worn down all the way. I had only driven 15K and it had not been very long so I did not expect this. I also didn't hear the warning tabs as the they are on the inner pad and it had not worn down enough. I checked the caliper slide bolts and they were gliding freely. I checked under the boots and there was still grease in there.
My old pads had only been worn to 30%-50% so I installed those on for now. When I compressed the piston, I had a hard time getting it started and had to apply a bit of force with the C-clamp, but then it compressed without the need for much force. When I put the pads in, it was pretty hard to get them into the clips. the inner one required me to press pretty hard with my hand, the outer one was so tight, I had to use the c clamp to get it all the way up to the rotor.
I'm wondering what the cause may be. Are there some typical causes for why the outer pad may wear faster? I would think if the caliper bolts were stuck, that would do it, but they move freely? could it just be that the pad is too tight on the slider? How might I fix that? I tried filing them down a little but that obviously wasn't enough.
Also, now the pads on the right and left are uneven and the rotor on the right isnt smooth anymore. Should I go ahead and change out the pads and that rotor? Does uneven pads or a rough rotor affect the effectiveness of the brakes significantly? They are the rear brakes so I would think there is less of an impact. I know that uneven pads and a rough rotor will cause them to wear faster, but if I need to replace them anyways, I might as well wait til they wear down more.
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Every time I brake, there is an awful grinding sound in the rear of my truck. It doesn't seem to be affecting the brake strength, however something is obviously wrong. I have looked at the brake pads and they seem to be in good shape. I am a mechanical misfit, but I hate getting ripped off by other people at the brake shops.
2005 F150 Crew Cab, 5.4 V8....
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