S-10 :: 1997 Got Spark But Won't Fire
Aug 14, 2005
Heres the deal...less than 2 weeks ago i had the clutch replaced in my 97 s10 2wd 2.2 5spd. this truck has been nothing but problems mostly self inflicted (by myself) 20000 miles since February 9th... anyways I was driving down the road to work running not perfect but running. All of a sudden the truck shut off while going fast enough to go down another street into a lot. came back at the end of the work day tried to start it with nothing. It got spark but wont fire. Replaced the fuel pump and filter, checked all the lines to see if they were messed up during the clutch repair, the gas is circulating all the way through, so i took out the spark plugs and no of them are getting wet. Then we tried something and tried to get it to start and it shot a backfire and flames out the intake manifold...
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Going down interstate running fine. Then just died, changed timing chain & gears, camshaft, crank, throttle pos. sensors, New cap & rotor,new gear on bottom of distributor, new coil and module, everything but the knock sensor and computer. Still no fire, Plug wires are good.
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My Celica is running great, I drove about 30 miles and the car started hesitating to run, I was in heavy traffic, I could hear rattling sounds which appeared as though they were coming from the heater. I stopped at a stop light and I could tell something was burning out. I have lots of power, car is very fast. I went to the next stop light and the car died, it started and I went to the next stop light with plenty of speed and the car died and would not start again. I tried starting the car for 3 hours, no fire from the coil.
I have no spark out of the coil. I am confident the coil is good. I have 2 coils. I went to the salvage lot and purchased an "igniter" (ignition module). I installed it on my Celica, still no fire out of the coil. I have a relay under the glove box that clicks when I crank over the engine. The engine cranks over very well for over 3 hours. I have an after market alarm. Why do I not have spark out of my coil?
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I have a 99 Saturn SL2/auto. Cylinder 1 will not fire. It has spark to the end of the plug. But the cylinder will not fire. No oil is getting on the plug it isn't fouling out. A brand new plug doesn't work at all. The cylinder is DEAD!
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My father in law has a 98 4wd, 4.0L that cranks but doesn't fire. We pulled a plug to check for spark....no spark. Possibly coil pack, or crank position sensor?
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2002 X w/ V10..
Drove to walmart the other day. Ran Great. Put a new battery in my spare key and tried it but anti-theft light came on. thought maybe battery was in backwards so turned it around and tried again still nothing. So tried original key and would not start. It would crank but not fire. (found a post stating that it was part of the anti-theft system to keep from just trying different keys) I let it sit for a little while and it started.
Drove home put new locking hubs in the front and took it for a drive. Started fine. Wife the next day went to work with it ran great. When she went to leave, it would not start. after about an hour it started for her and drove home with out issue. Next day I went out and it started for me first try. Then it started to just crank and never fire. After a while it started and I was able to start it a couple of times with out a problem then it stopped again. Since then I have not been able to get it to start.
I say I have no spark only cause I have tried to use starting fluid to at least get it to fire but nothing.. It doesn't sound like the fuel pump is kicking in either. Is there something that would shut these systems down that I am over looking..
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2009 Toyota corolla Automatic, 1.8L NON 1ZZFE
Died while Friend was driving .
No MIL, no history or pending codes.
Verified spark with a test plug and a ignition wire tester. Has spark while cranking.
Verified engine has fuel at injectors, removed rail and attempted to start while monitoring injectors, visually fuel is being sprayed out.
Verified compression by removing #2 spark plug, inserted finger into hole, compression forces my finger out of the cylinder head.
Security light comes one initially for 2 second when key is turned on, but goes away during cranking.
Cranks nicely, wont fire or start.
Not sure what's wrong, looking for an EFI or Ignition wiring diagram.
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I have a 2005 ford ranger, 4.0 auto, 4x4, 60psi fuel presser, has spark and injector pulse, will try to start if you hold the throttle a little over 3/4 the way down, but will not fire on starting fluid.
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I have a 97 jimmy that won't start. I have changed the fuel pump, checked the crank sensor, replaced wires. it gets fuel turns over but won't fire.
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Have starting problems some times, cranks over real good but will not fire . When this happens i have no fuel pres. But after it starts then it will run good This problem usually happens first thing in the morning. Is there a fuel pump relay in this system or do i have a bad pump . I only have 85,000 miles on this truck.
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My 01 F150 5.4 with 208K miles is having a starting issue. Did it again today, turns over, but won't fire. Problem has occurred a couple times in the past, but started after just a couple time of trying. Today however it took many times of turning it over I would say 5 or 6 times before it started. Seems like it's turning over kind of fast as well (faster than normal). Runs fine after it starts.
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A couple of weeks ago my truck wouldn't start. I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and when that didn't work I took it to a mechanic. At first it wouldn't start for him either. After move the truck inside he tried to crank it again and it fired right up. He said he didn't want to replace something if he wasn't sure what it was. Today it wouldn't start again. I bought some noid lights as suggested on line and tested one of the injector connectors and it did not light up. I realize that the injectors are not getting the needed "pulse". Whole thinking about what to do next I noticed that there was a broken wire. The wire is going to a really small looking box of some sort that is attached to the engine close to the injector at the front of the engine. What the wire is for and I am really not sure what to do next. I will try to upload a picture...
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All of a sudden wouldn't start Saturday morning. Turns over fast. No fire. Waited a while and tried again and it started and ran fine. It did it again Saturday afternoon, so I changed the fuel filter. Gas from filter was very dirty. Still did it after filter change, so I replaced the fuel pump relay. Still did it twice on Sunday. Once it starts, it runs perfectly. Drove it 200 miles without a problem until I killed it. Then it wouldn't start.
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I have a 2001 f150, 5.4triton, 4x4 supercrew. I'm having trouble getting the truck started. About a month ago is when I first started having trouble with it, and it's happened more frequently until now it just won't crank up at all. The engine is turning over, but it it just won't fire. When it starts, it runs and drives fine, no cut off or rough idles. I replaced the cam sensor today (figured it'd be worth a shot for 20 bucks) but that wasn't it.
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I just picked up an 02 Supercrew. It came with a “Ford” remote starter. I imagine it was a dealer install for the previous owner. Anyways when I try to use the remote starter, it will crank the engine over but not fire. If I manually start the truck it fires up immediately. How come the remote start wont fire?
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2000 ford f150 4.6 auto. Will spin over but won't start. checked coil for fire, no fire. Check fuel rail for fuel, no fuel. No theft light flashing and no check engine light on. Has new battery and plenty of fuel in tank. Started fine yesterday but not today.
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1998 F150 with 4.6L Windsor SOHC. I just completely rebuilt the engine including pistons, rings, timing chains (timing is good; compression @ 180 psi), 2 new coils, wires, plugs etc. and there's no fire at the plugs when I crank it. It turns over good but doesn't start. The fuel pump comes on and there's fuel up to the injectors. Before I disassembled the engine, it still ran good except for one piston. The 2 new coils, wires, plugs were replace before I rebuilt it. I was very thorough when re-installing the electrical etc... and triple checked it all after the engine not firing. Fuses are good. I know it's hard to trouble shoot without seeing the truck? The battery has been disconnected for months as I started a long time ago. Computer maybe?
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My girlfriend has a 2003 f150 4.6lt pick up its a great truck most of the time. Problem is when the temp gets in the neg double digits it becomes very hard to start it cranks fine but doesnt want to fire. When it does fire it might stall a few times before it stays running. The last cold snap we had I replaced the battery and in the summer the starter got changed. I have heard that this model of truck are known for hard cold starts. I am just wondering if this is true and any other thing besides block heater. It is strange that my 89 gm pickup will start no matter what temp and I'm having problems with the newer truck.
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My neighbor's 2000 5.4L F150 caught fire under the hood last night while parked in his driveway nosed up to the garage door. I wasn't home at the time so didn't see it 'til this morning; at first I thought the hood had blown off but then realized it had MELTED! He was inside at the time, heard a soft "WHUMP", went outside to find his truck on fire and called 9-1-1. The small windows in the garage door are gone (blown out?), and the garage door and gable all the way to the peak are scorched. His 'Toon parked next to the truck ain't looking real good either.
Awhile back, seems like there was a problem with Cruise Control switches on master cylinders causing fires; anyone have any info on this and if true, what FoMoCo did about it?
The fire dept. is supposed to tow his truck to where-ever an investigation can be done, but who knows how long that will take or if a valid cause will ever be found.
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Have a 2000 F-150, 5.4L. Once recently in a parking lot, it would crank but not fire or start. Wife called me to come get her. By the time I got there, she said it started "after she loosened the gas cap & re-closed it." But, it started fine for next several weeks. Yesterday it didn't. I read a bunch of threads here on possibilities. Many troubleshoot items I checked out or had done.
Chilton manual says you can get limited error codes from the light on dash flashing - MIL - Malfunction Indicator Lamp Method.
For now, I'm trying to find the 2nd, separate, one-wire lead "near or with the (main) Diagnostic Connector." They call the single wire / connector the "Self-Test Input connector" (STI). You're supposed to use a jumper between that STI & the upper, right connector of the main diagnostic connector. Then you (may) get flashes corresponding to codes via the key on, engine off method.
I see no such single wire lead or connector anywhere near there. Not up under the dash either - stuck my head under there & used mirror. There's a separate connector (not in use) clipped on the L side of the main diagnostic connector, but it has 5 pins inside. I took pics, but forum says I "may not post attachments." Been a member for yrs. That extra 5 pin connector faces toward firewall.
There's an "empty hole" - 1/4 in. (facing forward) in the bracket that holds the main diagnostic connector. Just above the main connector. Not sure if something was ever there
If no one knows how / if the Malfunction Indicator Lamp Method works or where the jumper goes, I'll be forced to buy a code reader w/o researching which are decent or crap (around $200 or less). I maybe? could wait to order one online (if knew which one). Also have AutoZone, O'Reilly, Advance, NAPA, PepBoys & others locally.
* The truck shows a check engine soon light, so should be a code already. * Yes, I tried her loosen / tighten gas cap trick.
* Also put a slow charger on for a while & even used the fast start setting on charger. No go, but engine turns really fast.
* Crawled under the gas tank & listened for fuel pump to activate when key is turned to Run.
* Fuel pump made a small noise - more like a relay or "clicking" - not a whine or whir.
* Checked most fuses - under dash & hi voltage box - that have anything to do w/ fuel pump, PCM & several others - mentioned in similar threads here.
Can't really check relays & don't want to just start replacing parts. I don't have a code reader & reluctant to buy one from local store w/o some reasonable research. (I don't mind buying one, but...). If I could drive it to the auto store, I wouldn't be asking this. Chilton's doesn't say if this malfunction indicator lamp method will work if a vehicle won't start. But, a code is already thrown.
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99 F250LD 4x4 w/5.4 and 215k . I'm sure I'm not the only one with this problem. Just had quite a bit of rain in my area. I didn't drive the truck in it but 3 days after the rain stopped I did. Skipping badly ! It has done it before and will clear itself up after a heat cycle or two. This time it kicked a p0307 code. # 7 cylinder not fire correctly I believe. I got ready to replace the cop but decided to wait a day. In the mean time I pulled the connector and blue compressed air through it and the male connector.
The next morning I decided to drive it before replacing the coil. Absolutely no skipping at all. Drove at different speeds , up heels slow , high speeds, no skipping. Ran the truck for about 20 minutes or so. Is the connector getting moisture in it ? Can I fill the connector with dielectric grease? Is there another problem. I cleared the codes and am going to drive a couple of cycles to see if any come back. Like I said it has done this before but not bad enough to throw a code so I'm not sure if it's always number 7.
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