S-10 :: 1996 Blazer 4.3 Cranks But Won't Start / Dash Lights Went Out
Mar 3, 2012
I have my My brother-in-law's blazer in my garage after a 60 mile tow. This is a TBI model with distributor. The dash lights went out, and it cranks fine but does not fire, even with starting fluid sprayed int the throttle body. Below are the details of what has been done so
far:
- Checked all fuses, none are blown.
- Could not get a spark from the coil wire when next to block while turning it over
- with ignition on we are only getting .11 volts from the connector that goes to the coil, should this be 12 volts?
- Ignition module tested ok (out of the vehicle at an auto zone and they said it was fine)
- can hear the fuel pump run at startup, (was replaced with a delphi pump last winter, but we could not get the fuel filter off at the time and he never replaced it)
- Did not check fuel pressure, but it sprayed out at test port when I pushed the valve.
PCM failure? What else?
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I have a 1996 2.7L 4x4 Tacoma. About a month ago I had a problem pop up. I went to start my truck and nothing happened. All the dash lights came on(i.e. e-brake indicator, airbag light, check engine light) like they were suppose to when you turn on the key. I heard the fuel pump come on and the starter relay click, but the starter did not activate. My first thought was bad battery because it had the original from when I bought it used. So I replaced it. Thought problem was fixed, but it reappeared. Checked all the starter wires and alternator wiring and they all appear to be fine. Truck started fine for a week after I had inspected the wiring. Then the problem came back.Then I replaced the starter thinking maybe the solenoid was bad. Once again the truck started fine for a day or two then the problem resurfaced. I thought maybe the starter relay had a bad contact in it so I replaced that, with no luck. Then I replaced the ignition switch thinking maybe that had a bad contact in it. Once again no resolution to the problem. The final piece to the puzzle is that sometimes if you keep turning the key over and over the thing will start and other times it refuses.
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Why will the 96 Blazer not start in the rain? Replaced almost all electric components from key cylinder to plugs. It is grounded somewhere when wet.
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My 96 2dr. Blazer with 121,000 on it . It will randomly not start. Come back next day starts and runs fine. It will randomly Stall (usually at lower RPM) it may start back up or not .If it dosen't start, it will start up 2 hours later, like nothing happened.
Fuel press. reads 58-62 lbs. running or with k.o.e.o., Even when it won't start. It holds press. for 2 min. c.e.l. never comes on when car won't start. c.e.l. would come on at close to red line and would be "left bank rich" Dont think it's crank or cam sensor cause their are no codes? Gonna check coil and ICM .
Checked for bad connectors at ecu, and everywhere, pulled, giggled on harness at ign. switch,plugs on drivers side under hood.Pump coming on even when car doesn't start. When it dies or doesn't start it doesn't sputter, like it's not getting gas ,I think it's voltage.
Car has new fuel pump and spider installed 2 years ago, run 44K every 6mos. Car is perfect inside and out Very well maintained . I want to keep this car forever.
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I will start out with a little history of the situation. A little over three months ago my original altenator died with over 200,000 miles on it. I took it in and had it replaced (they used a refurbished altenator) and about a 1-1/2 months later is when the issue started. The headlights and dash lights will flicker and whenever they dim, the volt gauge will go down.
When the lights come back to normal brightness the volt guage will also go back to normal. All this will go on for random lengths of time as I am driving. I took the vehicle back to where I had the altenator replaced and they replaced it again under warranty. About another 1-1/2 months went by and the same thing started happening. I took it back to the same garage and this time they put in a brand new altenator. Finally about a week after this last visit to the garage the symptoms came back.
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I have a 98 chevy blazer that the dash lights and interment cluster (including odometer) only works at night when u turn on the headlights by the switch. And the truck starts sometimes. I placed a piece of tape over the sensor on the dash for the auto lights( this made the dash, interment, odometer work) but now truck will not start. I've been told its the ignition switch.
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Parked in driveway and 2 hours later it cranks but will not start. Pushed on fuel rail Schrader valve and it squirts out. Turn key and the fuel pump runs for 2-3 seconds then off...... Thought I had fuel... assume electrical. Read posts last night and thought crank positioner pickup was a good place to look. Took spark plug leads off #1 and #4 at coil and set a 1/4 steel dowel in each so they were 1/2 inch apart. Crank motor and I get spark out of coils so I assume the plugs are getting fire... Took off intake hose and shot ether in the tube while cranking... no fire or pop at all.
Where to now ? Seems like I have fire to the plugs, and fuel available but will not start. I have only one code and that's PO1116 coolant temp out of range..I don't have a cam sensor code or a crank sensor code...I thought they might effect the timing ? With spark at the plug wires, you would think I would get a "POP" now and then, especially with the ether ?
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So I'm not new to fixing this car but I'm now stuck. It is not the inhibitor switch, I had that replaced, and the car cranks so it is not the problem. In addition, the "P" shows up on the dash. Since the car cranks, its not the battery, it is showing 12.25V.
I am afraid it is the fuel pump. Looking for the specs for the fuel pump such as resistances/ voltages? Sometimes when it cranks, I believe it ignites for half a second and then dies. Then it cranks with no ignition, then it sounds like its dying, then it ignites every once in a while.
Similar to this: [URL] ..... but without the nastiness at 0:08 where they turn off the car mid crank.
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I have been given a 95 S10 Blazer 2dr because the owner could not afford to have it put into the shop. Literally, GIVEN. Anyways, to start off the battery was as dead as it could be so I gave it a good 2 day charge and started troubleshooting. Here are some symptoms:
Problem cranking (acts like its not getting proper fuel, or maybe too much? However, I don't smell fuel like its flooding out)
IF, it cranks, it will idle very roughly and usually die shortly after
IF it doesn't die shortly after cranking, any attempt at using the gas pedal causes a rough/irregular throttle response usually followed by it dying.
The VERY first time I cranked it after charging the battery, it cranked perfectly and drove/idled as smooth as ice. I let it idle for about 30 minutes making sure it wouldn't overheat or anything else. Everything did fine, I killed it and cranked it again later THEN encountering the problems described above. It's been the same since.
So, some of my guesses (keeping in mind I'm not very familiar with these vehicles) some type of sensor (crank/idle), bad vacuum leak or a loose connection somewhere in the electronics. Looking for some type of confirmation before I waste money throwing parts at it.
Also, included a short video of what it's like trying to crank and running. [URL] ....
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I bought my 2003 F-150 XL (4.2L V6, 2WD, had 165k miles when purchased, 170k now, battery is a Napa brand manufactured in April 2012) in June 2012. A few weeks after I got it, I started having some weird issues. The check engine light came on and I went and had the codes read at Advance Auto. They were P0171 and P0174, lean bank one and lean bank two. The vacuum leak causing these codes isn't the issue I'm dealing with, it is the electrical problem.
The truck will occasionally flash every light on the dash (service engine soon, low fuel, oil, coolant temperature, seat belt, door ajar, and a couple others if I remember correctly) when I turn the key to power on the electronics. The first time I turn the key all the way to crank the truck up, it cranks fine, starts up, and dies within 3-4 seconds. The second time, it does the same thing. Third time, it just cranks and cranks, but will not start. After cranking and not starting a few times, the truck basically just clicks because the battery is run down.
This problem has happened randomly since June. It might be six weeks, one week, or only a few days between occurrences. The last two times it did it, I took the battery out of the truck, put it on a 6 amp charger overnight (about 8 hours), put it back in the truck, and it still wouldn't start, lights still flashing, etc. I gave it about 2-3 hours and both times the truck would start strongly and without incident, and the service engine soon light was off.
It rained here a LOT this summer, so I figured it might have something to do with driving through standing water at various speeds. The problem seems loosely associated with rainy weather (it rained last Saturday and I had to drive approximately 10-12 miles in it), but now it has started something new.
Yesterday afternoon, I tried to start the truck and it did the above described problem. I took the battery off and put it on a 10 amp charger for about six hours yesterday and left it disconnected overnight. Reconnected it this morning, gave it a couple of hours, still nothing. I remembered one time a while back that hitting the odometer reset button made the dash lights stop flashing. I held down the reset button and everything stayed lit up, but stopped flashing. Turned the key with the reset button held down and the truck started right up, but the dash kept flashing.
Turned it off, tried starting it without holding down the odometer reset, would crank, but not start. Tried starting it while holding down the odometer reset again, started right up. When I turned it off and tried it a third time, it just cranked for about six seconds before I gave up. This time, the oil, coolant temperature, battery, and service engine soon lights stayed lit (not flashing, they were solid) and the truck refused to start anymore.
Before it did the odometer reset BS I thought maybe I could figure it out because while it was a ghost of a problem that randomly came and went, it was always the same issue. Now I'm COMPLETELY lost.
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I have a 2000 S10 Chevy blazer .One day I was at a stop sign when the truck went completely dead , I had no power . I walked home , I came back a little later and figure I would give it a try well it started so I brought it home .. from then on it would start up some days and other times it would just crank but not start .After keeping it my garage for over a year , the other day I charged the battery and try to start the truck , it kicked right over and I let it run for awhile . I turned it off and restarted it again let it run for awhile . Yesterday I went up to start it again and nothing ,so I gave up , today it was the same thing it would just crank but not start . I know its not a fuel issue , and I don't think its an ignition problem ..
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My 96 mercedes c280 will not start in the winter. I moved from florida to ohio and when it gets close to freezing or below my car will not start. The lights on rear view mirror (immobilizer lights) blink for 30 sec. I have to wait any where from 5-30 min. to start car depending on how cold it is, otherwise car runs great.
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96 chevy blazer overheated did compression test number 3 was low on compression. And number 3 misfire.
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1996 lincoln towncar wont start intermittently. Started doing this yesterday, was troubleshooting and my friend jumped the starter to check it and he said it was good. I messed with a few fuses wires and it started up fine. Drove today with no problem, parked and it won't start again... same as yesterday... turn key and all u get is a clicking sound from the inside sounds like under the glovebox in the dash...
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I have a 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 with a 2010 crate 5.7 hemi in it.
Recently, I would go to start the truck, and it would just crank and not start, and the ETC light would come on. I'm able to cycle the key to off, then start it again when I give it gas. I try to clean the throttle body regularly, but it was clean today when I checked it. Sometimes it will start, and immediately the ETC light will come on, and the engine will miss very badly. If I plug a scanner into the truck when the light comes on, no codes are present. What may be causing this?
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When operating my driver's side window, it is very slow going up or down. I have to get it go up by pulling on it while pushing the button or else the circuit breaker will stop the motor about when it gets about half way up. Sometimes I have to push it going down also.
When it is very hot outside, and the window is in the up position, it will not go down at all (very annoying since my AC doesn't work). It just does not make any noise at all when I push the switch.
I have taken the door panel off and greased everything I could and put silicone spray on the felts in the window channels, but the problem remains.
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I have a 1996 E350 7.3 pstd and it hasn't started since April... Van ran great but had bad bearings in the steering column. I changed out the bearings around the steering stem and it hasn't started since but turns over just fine. The main symptom is the dash loses power when key is rotating from the last run position to the spring back crank position. Basically halfway between run and start the the dash drops power. You can see the problem very well in this video I'm attaching.
I filmed this moths ago so the dash is in disarray and I'm using a screw driver to activate the ignition switch. The screw driver bypasses the key cylinder which I thought was the problem but it's not. Parts I've replaced include new glow plug relay, new ignition switch, alternator rebuilt, 2 brand new batteries, new cps sensor, and also a new pcm. All fuses and relays have been checked and most have been tested, pcm gets power in run position as well. Gotta get this thing figured out it's been sitting for 6 months
Watch the video : [URL] ....
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So my 96 blazers cel started flashing and the truck started running extremely rough. I changed the catalytic converter and the o2 sensor that is in the pipe. Made no difference. So I knew my intake manifold gasket has a leak so I changed the gaskets and put knew bolts in. I wasn't thinking and took my distributor out and forgot to mark the timing. So played like heck getting it in timing again. Took a bit cause I didn't realize there was two timing marks. So got it started again was running really rough so thought 180 off turned it nothing. So put it back started it up still running very rough and flashing cel so put a new crank sensor and cam sensor in and a ignition coil in. No dif still. Could it be the egr or ECM?
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I have a 2010 Corolla LE w/ about 90k miles. I took it to work. parked. Went back to car. Engine cranks. Won't start. Lights are bright. Radio on. Jumped it and it started up no problem. Took it and got a brand new battery. turned car on and it worked with no problems. took it home. next day went to work. started w/ no problem. After work, started with no problem.
NEXT DAY... Engine cranks again....won't start. Tried to jump it again but NOTHING.
(also, just want to mention there is no history or indication that this was gonna happen. no jumpy starts...no shaking...nothing.)
Someone came out and checked: alternator, battery, starter, everything checks out good and working.
Spark plugs: GOOD but no spark...thought it might be crank sensor. Tried to change that out, still won't start.
In the midst of all this my key was acting up. finally it broke out of the lock part....the actual key separated (not broke) from the alarm part. i went to go make a duplicate w/ the key part and tried the duplicate key and it still won't start. do these things have a chip in them that activates the crank sensor? I've been w/o my car for about a week and i feel as though it's right in front of me.
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I Have A 2001 Chevy Blazer The 4x4 will not engage. I Press the 4x4 Auto, Hi or Low button on the dash they just keep flashing. you can hear the transfer case engage, but It will not be in 4 wheel drive. I have tried driving around with the light flashing to see if it would engage it did not.
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I started the car this morning, plugged the phone charger into the lighter socket, noticed the charger light wasn't on, pressed the charger in tighter, the car started to run funny, then it cut off. Lights work, radio won't work, all fuses are alright upon several visual inspections. Car wants to turn over but won't start. I tried disconnecting the negative battery cable to see if the car would revert back to "normal". I have never had a problem with this car in the two years I've had it; the battery was purchased brand new in November of 2011. I unplugged the cigarette lighter to see if that would work but nothing so far. Could it be the ignition switch?!
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