S-10 :: 1995 Blazer Cranks / Idle Very Roughly And Usually Die Shortly
Apr 15, 2013
I have been given a 95 S10 Blazer 2dr because the owner could not afford to have it put into the shop. Literally, GIVEN. Anyways, to start off the battery was as dead as it could be so I gave it a good 2 day charge and started troubleshooting. Here are some symptoms:
Problem cranking (acts like its not getting proper fuel, or maybe too much? However, I don't smell fuel like its flooding out)
IF, it cranks, it will idle very roughly and usually die shortly after
IF it doesn't die shortly after cranking, any attempt at using the gas pedal causes a rough/irregular throttle response usually followed by it dying.
The VERY first time I cranked it after charging the battery, it cranked perfectly and drove/idled as smooth as ice. I let it idle for about 30 minutes making sure it wouldn't overheat or anything else. Everything did fine, I killed it and cranked it again later THEN encountering the problems described above. It's been the same since.
So, some of my guesses (keeping in mind I'm not very familiar with these vehicles) some type of sensor (crank/idle), bad vacuum leak or a loose connection somewhere in the electronics. Looking for some type of confirmation before I waste money throwing parts at it.
Also, included a short video of what it's like trying to crank and running. [URL] ....
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I have my My brother-in-law's blazer in my garage after a 60 mile tow. This is a TBI model with distributor. The dash lights went out, and it cranks fine but does not fire, even with starting fluid sprayed int the throttle body. Below are the details of what has been done so
far:
- Checked all fuses, none are blown.
- Could not get a spark from the coil wire when next to block while turning it over
- with ignition on we are only getting .11 volts from the connector that goes to the coil, should this be 12 volts?
- Ignition module tested ok (out of the vehicle at an auto zone and they said it was fine)
- can hear the fuel pump run at startup, (was replaced with a delphi pump last winter, but we could not get the fuel filter off at the time and he never replaced it)
- Did not check fuel pressure, but it sprayed out at test port when I pushed the valve.
PCM failure? What else?
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But now it looks like it was a bad buy, it runs bad. The rpm starts jumping between 1500 - 2500. Suddenly the break and ABS warning lights in dashboard lights up, and sometimes all black out and it stalls.
At first it started acting like this when towing a trailer on the highway, doing 80 km/h. But now it does it at any speed.
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The diagnostic fee if it isn't the resistor is $60 an hour so I have a feeling it will be cheaper to just swap out all the parts. I have a feeling it is the relay but I am worried that since I can tell the engine changes idle when I turn the AC on it isn't, though I do not know for sure. Also if it is the relay there are three relays against the firewall and I am not sure which it is as the cases on them all appear to the untrained eye to be identical. Included is a picture. Which relay is the blower relay.
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Replaces plugs and coil packs Replaced fuel filter Cleaned MAF and TB New N75 valve New DV Cleaned pancake valve replaced 6 vacumn lines with leaks.
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I took it to a garage a couple weekends ago after the check engine light had come on earlier in the week. I reset the computer and the light never came back on, so I lost the chance to have the code read, but there weren't any other symptoms beyond what I'm used to. The mechanics at the shop said they couldn't find anything specific causing the rough idle and suggested replacing some or all of the motor mounts, which are weak. They didn't seem confident that would fix the problem, and neither am I, as I don't see how weak motor mounts would explain the low RPMs as well as the shaking.
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I have a new MAF sensor coming in, or if there are any other things i should check that might contribute to the problem.
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A few more days of the rough idle/gritty acceleration and I went back, but they just suggested getting my fuel injection system cleaned. I personally checked to make sure that the wires in my car were connected properly, as well as making sure the hose connecting to the air filter was on there correctly. Today on a whim, I took my car to Autozone to have them check the computer, even though I don't have a check engine light on, and sure enough the only code read was P0302--Cylinder 2 misfire.
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Side note, when the hubs are locked in there's a knocking when i turn hard right.
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I have a 2005 Ford Explorer 4wd with 4.0 SOHC 6 cyl Flex Fuel. For months the vehicle has idle rough and increasingly becoming difficult to start. I decicded to replace the spark plugs and wires hoping to solve this issue! gap set to 052. When I started the vehicle it went into engine fail safe mode and wrench light came on. I then replaced the TPS on the throttle body and had no diference (I may have installed incorrectly! when I put it on the armature felt like it broke free inside the sensor). DTC codes read P0223, P2106, P2110 and with P0122 pending, P0223 pdg, P2106 pdg, & 2110 pdg.
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Been having a fair bit of trouble with my accent, at first my car sometimes would hesitate on acceleration in 1st gear. Now it has a rough idle and the engine just completely cuts out at random. It does however start straight back up. It makes an odd noise whilst idling almost like a misfire from the exhaust. On start up it blows a lot of white smoke. And when you do get driving it is really jerky. It's been serviced every 5000ks. I've changed spark plugs, map sensor and throttle body sensor, put a fuel injector cleaner through and still no improvements. It's been booked into the mechanics for next Tuesday.
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