S-10 :: 1992 Blazer 4WD - Remote Oil Filter Line Leak At Adapter O Ring
Oct 27, 2012
I noticed a drip on the remote oil filter adapter connecting block, it was appearing from the seam between the block with the supply and return lines to the oil filter and the engine adapter. I purchased a gasket set and replaced the two O rings, the old ones were hard and flat. The new ones are soft and round, I thought that would stop the seep, but there was no change. So after removing a few more times and cleaning, even substituting a slightly different size O ring with no change in the drip. The two aluminum blocks are held together by a 13 mm bolt. It is a 1992 S-10 Blazer 4WD 4.3L. None of the crimps are leaking.
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I have a 1998 Passat turbo that suddenly started leaking oil from the oil filter adapter. I think it is a bad gasket. Could this mean my pressure switch is bad? What caused this problem?
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I have been reading the forums and am quite curious at to the placement of the small O-Ring on the shaft of the filter. It has been said to remove it even though the filter has a dedicated groove for it. That goes against logic as I would think the shaft should seal to allow proper flow through the filter. I would think without the O-Ring flow could not be controlled. Also I have never seen such a dedicated way to ship a loose part. All pictures of the filter show the O-Ring in place on the shaft. It seems to me when I changed my oil I removed the original filter small O-Ring and used it to replace the drain plug O-Ring.
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My fuel filter lid o-ring keeps blowing out upon hot start, this has happened 4 times now once last week, I replaced filter and all was ok until Thursday it happens again I change the filter allis fine! Now today!!!!! TWICE I have to install new filters because the o-rings are blowing outside the bowl lid! I'm using the same BALDWIN PF7698 filters I've used for years, my reg. Is set at 75psi and holds steady! No spikes but I haven't been able to watch it when the o-ring blows out! Injectors and o-rings are new (<1000miles) no problems during operation at all!
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I had a leak at the flange several months ago. I fixed it with the diesel o rings kit. I made a trip from TX to AL with no leaking and drive it daily without leaks. But, 2 weeks ago noticed a small dribble of a leak from the same spot again - not enough to leave a mark on the pavement but any leaking drives me nuts. I applied some RTV. It worked for the 2 weeks.
Today, noticing another dribble of a leak coming through the RTV down the pan. I'm thinking the flange is bent and not keeping that o-ring sealed against the pan. I'm going to try to apply some additional RTV at the leak spot. If this doesn't work? Is that Strictly Diesel adapter really worth that kind of dough? Is pushing the OEM adapter into the pan really acceptable? Any other options?
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I've got an "on- and off-going" problem with my '92 S10 Blazer.
Car specs:
Year 1992
Blazer S10 4.3 Tbi
4- doors 4WD
Mileage 200k miles
Symptoms:
As cold, every now and then it will start right up, but the idle is wery rough, and seems like its running on less than 6 cylinders. When giving gas, it revs up, but runs roughly and still seems to be running on less than 6. Won't stall though.
When engine warms up after a couple of minutes, the idle gets smooth and no issues what ever when driving.
So just to be clear, this issue is so far only happening when staring cold.
Parts (new off course) changed recently (less than 500miles on them):
Distributor
Spark plugs + wires
Alternator
Battery
IAC valve
Fuel filter
This symptom came up now and then before changing any parts. I am quite handy with cars (pure amateur though), but can't really afford solving the proble by changing loads of parts with no effect..
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I have a 3SFE 1997 engine. I've installed a Toga HV oil pump. My engine also has an oil cooler. But when I turn on the engine and accelerate it oil starts shooting out of the oil filter. When I remove the filter it has blown out the filters O-ring. I use 5W-30 since I've rolled it of the show room. What can it be?
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1992 S10 Blazer, 4.3L, 4x4, TBI "Z"
When I start the truck, it idles rough, like it's idling too low, and even feels like it's missing during idle. Sometimes when I put it in gear (reverse or drive), it shuts off. No codes are being thrown. It has no problems driving around town or on the highway. It's just that initial start and idle.
I've checked all the following with a shop manual:
Ignition Control Mod.- Orig and 2nd one from junk yard. Both tested good at store. Even the testing in the shop manual with an ohm meter and battery tested good.
Ignition coil- tested good using shop manual testing
TPS- Scan shows .2-.7 at idle.
Plugs, wires, cap, and rotor are good.
Vacuum is good.
Haven't checked IAC, EGR
I recently moved cross country, and about halfway through, I broke down. Engine would turn over, fuel relay would click, injectors would work, but no fuel. Pulled it in to a truck shop, and after all my testing and theirs, we determined it was the fuel pump. After they had to fix a pinched hose, it ran. I made it to Texas. I didn't have the idle issues prior to the trip. Just had the tranny rebuilt and everything was great.
I thought, at first, the ignition control mod was the problem because it got a bit warm pulling the trailer, and I know those things don't like too much heat. No dice. So, what controls idle at Park and in gear but at idle? EGR, IAC?
I did a WinALDL scan. IAC at Park/Idle ranges from 18-55. The engine never runs in Open Loop. I would say the engine runs mostly rich according to the scan. I've attached a manageable version of the WinALDL data.
Also, I need to check the thermostat or temp sensor. Scan reads the engine never getting higher than 180.
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I installed a BPD EGR cooler about 4 years ago just as a preventative measure (along with an oil cooler) in my '06 F-250 6.0. About 6 months ago some coolant was found to be coming down the rear of the engine and onto the garage floor but only in the mornings after cooling down and even then not every morning.
A couple weeks ago I did a coolant flush and put the red ELC coolant in and now I can see better where the coolant is coming from. It appears to be coming out from the O-ring between the cooler and the intake manifold. I did check the torque on the stud and bolt and they are tight.
Is there a way the drop the cooler enough to install a new O-ring with out going through the whole process of removing the intake manifold and everything that is associated with that? The thought is daunting...
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I bought my wife a 2011 GX460 from Lexus. On my way home i realized the car was in KM not MPH. The outer ring is in KM and the inner ring is in MPH. The dealer thought they were going to be able to change but turns out they can't. I'm at a crossroads, what do i do. They offered to try and find a new car or i keep the car and we work out a deal of some sort. If i keep the car will i run into other issues with it being from Canada. So, what makes a 2011 GX460 from Canada different then one from the US ?
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2003 XL 5.3L with a leaking fuel line between the tank and filter. Mechanic says that this line is only available in a kit that includes all fuel lines for the truck. Hard to believe you can't just get the one line.
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I tore it apart and there was no gasket or donut ring in the flange. Is there supposed to be a gasket or donut ring? I can feel the leak with my hand. I have retightened & it still "tick-ticks" real bad.
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Went under truck and saw fluid. Squeezed the rubber boot and fluid poured out does that mean the steering rack needs to be replaced? If so how hard is it to replace?
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I discovered the other day that I have a radiator leak on the drivers side of the radiator. (Seems to be near the top) It doesn't appear to be coming from the coils. But I noticed today, after driving about 20 miles, that the radiator cap was still cool to the touch. I was able to remove the cap without ANY issues. And the temp gauge is running just a bit behind the halfway mark. I have plenty of heat. The truck runs fine. And the water pump is new. (Within the last year) I'm not sure what I have going on besides the obvious leak.
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My mothers 95 blazer LS coolant is disappearing. A friend said if it's not on the ground than it's in the engine somewhere. oil pan search looked coffee looking?
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I found during an oil change that there is coolant in my oil, I had suspicions of this because of having to add coolant more than I should of had to. There is probably either a crack in my block, head gasket or intake manifold, my question is how can I tell which. I figure that if I preform a compression check it will tell me that I have a cracked block and or a cracked head gasket, what will tell me if I breeched my intake manifold.
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I have a 2000 f250 V10 CC 4x4 long bed. The rubber fuel line that has a quick disconnect to attach to the fuel filter along frame is leaking. This is on the filter side going to engine. Ford tells me fuel line not available. Dorman products tech assist can't tell me which connector of there's will fit my truck.
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I used to own a fleet of school buses and I had remote trans filter on all of them. I'd change the filter about every 10K and felt like it really extended my trans life on Allisons. I wanted to put on my SD, so, I had a spare filter block with a 20psi bypass valve, and I used it. Worked out real well mounted to the radiator support, up front--easy access. uses a NAPA 1268 filter. In the picture it looks like the hoses are real close to the AC condenser, but in real life, the are three inches from it.
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I want to add an in-line filter to my power steering set up. I'm replacing my pump, lines and steering box and I want to add a magnetic filter that will be easy to clean and change the filter without dumping fluid every time I want to replace the filter. I'm thinking of adding the Magnafine pro filter with aluminum billet housing. I know the plastic magnafine filters have been used alot and the knock off Raymundo's as well. Has anyone used this filter before and where did you mount it? I'm thinking of placing it between the PS reservoir and the air filter with fuel fittings and a fuel shutoff to close while swapping out the filter. Is there a better filter set up out there that I should consider?
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As some may remember, I had a new engine put into my B6 about 2 weeks ago. Everything had been great since, no rattles, squeaks, or check engine lights, until tonight.
About half an hour after I get home from work, my wife heads out to a meeting. She opens the door to the garage and is about knocked over with the smell of fresh gas. NOT GOOD.
I tell her to get in her car and go, I grab the flashlight and pop the hood on the B6. Low and behold, the middle gas line of the 3 lines on the front right of the engine had come completely off! It was leaking gas everywhere and directly on to the alternator. On closer inspection, I notice that the tech. when he put in the new engine, he NEVER PUT THE 3 HOSE CLAMPS ON THE GAS LINES!
They were still on the hoses, just backed off from the ends a couple of inches. Needless to say I fixed the situation, but the Service Manager will be getting a call in the morning. This could have been a very very bad situation. I didn't smell any gas on the way home. I hate to think what could have happened.
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Looks like there's a leak in my power steering line where the line meets the rack. Looks like it might be a bad washer and/ or bolt.
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