Rodeo :: Key Is Stuck In The Ignition - Cannot Pull Out
Mar 10, 2005
My key is stuck in the ignition. The car turns on, i just cannot pull out the key. I've had to park my car at work with key still stuck in the ignition until I can get this matter resolved. The key is a regular key, does not have a chip.
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I put the key in and maybe 1 out of 10 times it wont turn to start the engine. When I pull it out and put it back in 2-3 times it will turn. I tried my spare key and it still happens. I have W2-40'd it with no luck. I am out in the wilderness a lot and don't want to get stranded. is it the switch or has the interlock cable shown this as a problem? What are the steps to replace the switch?
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My tranny is stuck in limp mode. I can manually shift it, but it won't shift on it's own. The 'automatic' part of the automatic transimission is definitely not working right.
I searched and checked for the usual suspects, low battery or alternator output (measured over 14v at batt. when on), and the range selector switch. I removed the switch, took it apart, cleaned it up, and reinstalled it. It looked like it was in decent shape inside, although it appeared to have had a bit of oil of some sort that had leaked into it. There was a bit of oil on that side of the tranny, around the gear selector and switch, but not enough to actually drip as I don't have any stains on my driveway where I always park. The only thing I haven't checked is the atf fluid level, as I can't seem to find the my wrench that will take off the fill nut. I'll get that figured out tonight.
The tranny hasn't been taken care of like it should, I've had the fluid replaced two or three times over 100k of ownership, but I'm not sure about the filter. Would the need for a filter and fluid change cause it to go into limp mode? Also, it's not throwing any CEL codes either.
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I have another CEL : P1404... I know what this is, EGR Valve Stuck Closed. I just have one question about this. Is the valve the pintle? If not, what is the valve?
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I have a 2004 super duty diesel 6 with electrical trouble dash lights stopped working put in new fusses where needed still no dash lights but now truck starts and runs ok but will not shut off unless I pull ignition.
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My truck is starting to shift strange. As it warms up and I'm in drive, it will shift between drive and 2nd by itself. When I pull up to a stop lite, it's like it's stuck in drive and doesn't downshift. Ultimately it dies. I've checked my fluid and its fine. Any ideas? Oh and my engine light is on. Can a parts store find the code for the issue I'm having?
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I am at work and my wife is on the phone. They Treg would not start this morning and the key is stuck in the ignition. She tried using a pen to push the little button in but it won't move and the key won't budge. What is she doing wrong, and why did this happen? Is the battery drained?
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Car works perfectly otherwise. Good battery, a yellow top less than a year old. Made sure lights weren't on, took in and out of park, tried starting and restarting moving in and out of park. Turned steering wheel -- nothing seems to make a difference. What we can do to diagnose?
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My key is stuck in the ignition of my 97 jimmy, truck shuts off but won't turn the last click to remove the key. What is wrong?
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I dropped mine off this morning for service and noticed a 2005 parked exactly in the middle of the service lot blocking traffic and surrounded by a pool of oil.
Turns out it was delivered by flat bed last night. The flatbed driver was unable to start the car so he flooded the area and I assume his flatbed with oil so he could "slide" the Phaeton off his truck.
Service says they can't start the car or remove the key from the ignition, so there it sits. I told them I'd see if there was any advice here on getting that car back on the road - and outta the lot.
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This is the original key that I've used since the car was new. This morning I stopped the car, shifted into PARK, and turned the key to shutoff the engine and accessories. The key turned completely as it should, but the steering wheel did not lock and the key will not come out. I messed with it a bit but with no luck. An usher walking by got in and tried it a few times, but no luck. The car will start and run fine, I just can't get the key out of the ignition.
This also means the key fob won't lock the doors, so I have to leave the key in the ignition and the doors are unlocked. GREAT!! I have an appointment with the dealership on Thursday of this week, until then I'm driving my other car and leaving the Sonata in the garage.
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I have a strange problem with our 2011 Sonata GLS. For one the key gets stuck in the ignition. When this happens we are usually able to put the car in drive and then back in park, to get the key to come out. I have taken the car to the dealership twice, but they are unable to recreate the problem. They told me that you have to turn the wheel to get the key out. Also, when driving the car this weekend the emergency brake light and abs light came on for an entire 20 mile trip, even though the e brake was not engaged. This is also an intermittent problem. The car has 45k miles and so is still under warranty from Hyundai. However the dealership is unwilling to address the issue. I was told that if I bring the car back again for this issue there will be associated charges to me. I am concerned that the car has some type of electrical issue that is going to strand my wife and baby on the highway. We have only had the car 9 months and would love to put this issue to rest.
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I have a 2002 petrol, manual, 2.4 Santa Fe
It only had one key when I got it so I ordered a replacement key online -uncoded and uncut. When it arrived I got it cut - looked good. Before getting it coded I thought I would just test the cutting. Opened doors ok so tried it in ignition - fitted and turned engine over - did not start as not coded I presume.
However, when I tried to get the key out again it would not come out. Could this be to do with it's transponder not being coded? Any way I can get it out??
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I have a 2011 Sonate GLS and the key has been getting stuck in the ignition off and on for about a year. When it starts it's occasional and slowly gets more consistent with time. There was indeed a recall about 4 months back, in which the garage told me that they think it may work with what was going on, and it seemed to work for a bit until it recently started becoming consistent again.
The car shifts into PARK and the car rocks back and forward slightly and occasionally I will hear a clicking sound as it rocks, however when I don't hear that sound, I can almost guarantee that the key is going to be stuck. It will turn counterclockwise about 1/3 of the way before locking into place. I can start the car again no problem, and have to typically place it in reverse and drive again and shift, rather violently, into PARK again and pray for a click.
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I got a good deal on a 04 phaeton because of some electrical problems. I am starting the research to get it figured out, and there is a lot of info on the site which is great.
The problem is the key is stuck in the ignition (I got it out via the emergency release) and it can turn left and right and the car will not do anything
I put good batteries in the car since they were dead and there is no change.
My scanner (launch master) will not connect because I'm assuming I can't get the ignition key to switch into the "ON" position.
I love this car, but I don't love electrical problems!
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My friend has a 2007 Passat 2.0 T Wagen. He went to start it up this morning with no problems, but the car shut off after a few seconds and it said mobilization activated. The key won't come out of the ignition.
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I have a 2000 jeep grand cherokee that yesterday the key got stuck in the ignition and i cannot remove it. At the same time i used to have to press the brake to shift from park to any gear now it just moves freely without using the brake.
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I went to get into my car this morning & my key fob didn't work. I Manually entered the car by using my key in the door (expecting the alarm to go off). I put the keys into the ignition & twist to start my car &.... NOTHING. I'm getting no display on my monitors (almost like there is no power to the car) & to make matters worse. I can't get the key out of the ignition. A couple things of note.
1. I had both batteries replaced in December (as a precaution since both were originals)
2. I've noticed that there may be a water seepage issue (noticed some water collected in the driver side floor of my car which may have gone unnoticed because I'd attributed it to water from my feet when it was raining) I've never seen any water accumulation on the floor during a dry day until this morning.
How I can get the key out of the ignition w/o power (i.e is there a manual release switch?) Is there a way to get the car into neutral w/o power etc.? The last time w/ the steering wheel issue. I had a devil of a time w/ the tow company because the wheels were locked etc.
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Ignition coils on Hyundai Accent (2011) getting stuck in suction? Or looking for engine vacuum pathway explanation?
I previously (~6 months ago) replaced one ignition coil that had a misfire. I currently have a check engine light with "No Codes" on code reader. My engine is rough idling with very weak acceleration. This occurred when trying to accelerate up a hill. I was looking to inspect the coil resistance and noticed the replaced coil has a pretty strong suction holding it in.
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I have a 2011 Sonata with a very annoying ignition key issue. Out of the blue after turning the car off the Ignition key does not come out. The car turns off after putting it in park and everything just fine but the key will not come out. I tried wiggling and driving the car around and everything for a while but no luck. So eventually after fussing with it enough i figured out taking the fuse for the entertainment system out (Radio/clock/side mirror control) i can get the key to work perfectly.
So for the last two days i have been able to make the car work without radio or anything and it works fine but i would want my radio back as well.
Unfortunately the car has 75k miles on it and the dealer wants $120 just to look into the problem and are quoting somewhere in the $3,000 range to fix the issue (they want to replace the whole assembly since they don't know what to do) which i think is BS reason to take my money.
So i know its not the fuse as i replaced it already and everything will work perfectly fine if i connect the fuse back in. every time i want to exit the car and take the key out i just have to take the fuse out manually and key comes out.
Not sure if this is related in anyway but i have been having an annoying AC issue where it will turn off by itself after 30-40 minutes of use or will simply blow hot air. Solution for this was to take turn AC off and back on which normally fixes it. My local Hyundai dealer has never been able to replicate this issue so they never fixed it under warranty while it was under warranty.
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I have a Saturn Ion 2, 05. I will intermittently not start. I put the key in the ignition, power comes on, turn the key, it clicks a couple of times and then everything turns off. The key is then locked in the ignition. It is a new key. My old key looked chewed up. The only way to get the care to release my key is to open the hood and wait a few minutes and then shut the hood. Power will come back on and it will release my key. I used to be able to start it after that but now it seems like it is becoming more and more difficult to start it. I have read about a loose fuse box under the hood, replacing battery, replacing ignition switch and resetting passcode. Im not sure where to start first. I do not have the extended warranty and am on a tight budget.
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