So I just had both cats replaced and now the car is running very rough and trowing out mis-fire codes. What could cause this? Going to disconnect the battery to reset the computer to see if that might work.
View 8 RepliesSo my daughter's 2000 Golf Mk4 with 160,000 miles on it was running rough and had 3 codes stored - cylinders 2 & 3 misfire and a 411 secondary air injection problem.
Having had the misfire code before I swapped injectors around and the error code moved cylinders with the injectors so I attempted cleaning them and also cleaned the throttle body and intake manifold. At this point car still running rough but also started smoking badly.
Replaced the following items:
- Spark plugs
- Spark plug wires
- PCV valve
- PCV hose
- Fuel injectors w/ remanufactured
Hose reconnected between secondary air injection pump and air intake - previous owner had duct-taped it in when he couldn't get it to seal I guess. I've never heard it run.
Car running better, idles more smoothly, doesn't stumble or stall like it did before, no error codes coming up BUT car smokes a lot and the fumes make me feel sick just driving it a mile.
The car had never smoked like this before, hasn't had a whole lot of love the last year or two but no real problems either so why the sudden smoke?
At first I assumed it was cleaner being burned off but that should have been gone in under a minute and this is on-going. It's bad enough to not only be embarrassing but apparently dangerous as the fumes are bad.
04 trailblazer, 4.2. Running rough and SES light on. Had codes pulled and showed p0340 (CMP sensor circuit malfunction) and p0300 (Multiple engine misfire detected). Replaced the CMP sensor and left negative battery cable unhooked for 20 minutes or so to clear the codes. Upon start up no more SES light and idle was slightly better. Within seconds it SES was back and it is again running poorly. Cruise control is no longer functional as well.
View 7 RepliesSo recently I took my engine apart to do a valve cover gasket and Ecs tuning 2.0 coil conversion. I noticed a good amount of oil in the plug tubes so I got out my trusty soap dispenser and started pumping out oil. Pulled plugs and cleaned them (wanted to make sure oil was all out b4 getting new) also while I had it apart I wanted to take intake off, ( just to polish it and clean out any carbon inside).. Well I never ended up doing that. I removed the injector connections and realized it was to much work for such little satisfaction. So I plugged the injectors back in.
I got my car all back together and now I'm throwing 6 cel codes!! P0102 (maf) which I'm assuming b.c I took it off for so long, p0201, p0202 ( injector 1 and 2 miss), then some misfire codes p0300 (random) p0301 (cylinder 1) and p0304 (cylinder 4). The car starts runs very rough then cel comes on and blinks. I was thinking maybe the oil getting down to the combustion chamber couldn't be the best for it but it would just burn off. Only other thing I did was take off the thottle body and cleaned it.
So my girlfriends's 2001 2.0 Golf (engine code AVH, 153k miles) began throwing codes for misfire on cylinder 4 and for the o2 sensor (post-cat) recently. I went ahead and replaced the spark plugs, wireset, and the coil pack. They were way overdue. The CEL went away for like 30 miles, and then came back. Now it's reading misfire on cylinder 3 and the same thing for the o2 sensor. What else it could be? Search is coming up blank, most people replaced the coil pack and the CEL went away.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 LC that has a few symptoms - intermittent misfire/running rough at these times it has:
dark smoke
uses 3 times the fuel
loss of power (to normal)
will pick up revs slow without running rough and runs normal at high revs.
dies misses and then picks up revs slowly when accelerator is pushed fast to the floor from idle.
Hyundai mechanics checked computer and it coded change spark plug leads this did not fix the problem, and have no idea.
About 6 months ago the car was doing the intermittent thing when it died and liquid was heard splashing on the ground. I found the main petrol line connecting to the pump had come completely off. After replacing all problems ceased and the car ran perfect with full power etc.
I've checked the fuel lines none appear to be leaking etc.
I have a 2000 excursion 4x4 v10 with 90k. The past few months I've noticed a tug or miss fire at low RPM (2000 AN UNDER) the past week its gotten worse, some occasional rough idol and the missing is getting worse. Whats wrong?? I don't want to take it to ford yet! No Check Engine Light yet...
View 14 RepliesRecently bought 98 f150 xlt 3 door 5speed 4x4 4.6l 230k miles for $1k was throwing misfire codes on 1,8,4,3 cylinders. Usually throws two cylinders at a time and never the same cylinders consecutively
Parts replaced:
coils...msd blaster
belden wire
motorcraft plugs...when i did these it ran perfect for a tank of fuel...18mpg no stumble
two cans seafoam through the tank
tank was dropped and drained
fuel filter
one can seafoam intake cleaner
3" exhaust from the Y pipe back
MAF cleaned
Previous owner said to have tested and cleaned injectors but I am not positive it was done... I don't think its mechanical because it wanders through the cylinders and when i changed the plugs it ran spot on. it gets worse the warmer the truck gets also.
injectors?
clogged small cats?
sensor?
I have a 2006 Lincoln Mark LT that seems to have an intermittent misfire. The truck is not throwing any codes either.
View 6 RepliesOkay so last year i bought a 2000 celica gt manual with 50,000 miles, and currently has 67,000 miles. A few days ago I started to notice the engine was running rough and then about 10 miles later the chack engine light came on. I promptly went to the auto parts store to read the code. I was informed I have a cylinder 1 misfire. Naturally i replaced the spark plugs with NGK iridium, reset and rechecked engine code. Same code. Next i swapped the coils from 1 and 2, reset and rechecked. same code. I then swapped fuel injectors from 1 and 3, rest and rechecked. Same code. So now i am a bit stumped.
Only faulty equipment prior to this incident would be 2nd gear synchronizer. Only applicable above 5,800 RPM.
I have a 2000 Toyota Avalon XLS with 134k miles, engine is a v6 (3.0). It has a rough idle and a steady misfire. You can drive it sometimes and it will run perfect and you can drive it sometimes and it will misfire. I am getting codes P1150, P0300,P0302, P0304,P0306. Driving me nuts.
View 1 RepliesI have had some slight rough running with a cold engine and stumble <2000rpm. Finally it tripped a CEL which was read as a misfire code.
The mechanic swapped the coil and plug(recent) and no change. He did a compression test and air blew out the exhaust. So.......the car needs a valve job which entails motor removal and fixing the head and reinstall. He rough estimates this at $2000 and rate is $65/hr.
He mentioned looking at pistons and may be a bit more if rough.
This car well maintained (170,000 miles 2005 Legacy turbo wagon with manual)...
2000 4.2....Last year I had to replace the coil pack when it started running rough and had a code for a misfire on cylinder 3. It is doing the exact same thing now, same code, same cylinder. Is there something wrong that is causing this?
View 5 Repliesso i bought this truck about 3 months ago and it was running real bad when i got it, I went ahead and changed the lower and upper intake gaskets, cleaned throttle body, egr ports on lower and upper intake, did timing chain cover gaskets and 3 bad injectors i found while doing gaskets, truck ran better but still black smoking(running rich) and getting 8 mpg. So I changed fan clutch,fuel pump fuel filter,airfilter,MAF sensor(old one was pulling 14.4 volt), DPFE sensor and all 4 oxygen sensors(old ones carboned up and real sooty).
I've checked my egr valve while idling and when it opens the engine just about stalls, truck seems to be running better but CEL light came on again and is throwing these CODES:
P0453 (evap emission ctrl sys pressure sensor high input),
P0141,
P0153,
P0135(oxy sensors),
P0401exhaust gas recirculation flow insuff detected,
P0460fuel tank level indicator circuit error.
And I believe I've told everything i know ...
My friend has a 2003 Toyota Echo that is throwing a cylinder misfire code. Original code is P0302 and P0302PD. The car is idling rougher, kind of sounds like "put-put-put". Also, the car has no power at all. He lives on a hill and he can't even pull out of his driveway. Lastly, the smell of the exhaust is gassy.
We have changed out the spark plugs...no change. Next, we bought a new ignition coil for the number two cylinder...no change. So, maybe its the wiring. Put the new coil onto the number 3 cylinder and the number 3 coil onto the 2 cylinder. Low and behold, the misfire code changes to P0303 and P0303PD.
Thinking we might have gotten a dud of a coil, we bought another. Same thing...new coil on 2 code is P0302...new coil on 3, code is P0303. Could we just have gotten two bad coils? Oh, coils were a BWD brand coil and Duralast brand. Should we just go OEM from dealer? OR Denso from Advance Auto?
2000 Grand Am GT with 3.4 and 150,000 miles. Car keeps throwing code P304 - cylinder 4 misfire. The main issue is the light and needing to pass emissions test. It has just recently had new plugs, wires, and injector #4.
The fuel pressure regulator was replaced about 3 years ago because it was leaking fuel, enough to smell while driving the car with windows rolled down. Shortly after the fpr was replaced, the acceleration problem seems to have started, either by coincidence, or improper installation. The light/error has been occurring for quite some time, about the past year or two. About a year ago, the car was also throwing a random misfire code. I am not positive if both codes were being thrown at the same time, and when exactly the P304 started.
The crank (or cam) sensor was replaced and worked with the issue for a short while (removed codes/light for maybe a few months?) Before the sensor was replaced, the car would stumble at very slow speeds, 0-10 mph. Also replaced Idle Air Control valve last year. The car would sometimes surge on semi warm starts (not cold, not 190-200) between 500-1000 rpms. The surge would be worse when I had the blower running or the rear defrost on, down to 200 rpms at times.
Currently, the car runs perfectly fine for me, except when trying to accelerate on highway ramps. Its firing somewhat when you step on the pedal, but lags and takes longer than normal to accelerate up to speed for merging with traffic. Drove the car after new injection and said it runs fine while driving, but the misfire seems to be mostly or only occurring at idle.
Currently throwing both P0441 and P2096, just prior to this I was also throwing P0442.
Read around on web and decided the simplest thing it could be would be the fuel cap, may as well start there. Owners manual even recommends changing at 90k. Got a replacement from advanced (which is supposed to be built to OEM specs), re-set battery light stayed off, attempted to pass emissions but a few systems were "not ready". Was good for 80ish miles. Light came back on throwing P0441 and P2096. I re-tightened fuel cap and re-set battery, light went off.
Did some maintenance; spark plugs, air filter, oil/filter change and replaced the leaky oil pan. Keep putting on miles hoping to get to the recommended 200 mile mark before stopping by the emissions testing facility, 105 miles after re-set same codes came back. I'm almost positive I replaced a o2 sensor 2ish years ago for emissions. Also there is an obvious exhaust leak which could be a culprit. I seem to remember reading somewhere that a weak battery can cause problems with fuel pressure... not sure if it's true or not but for what it's worth I do know my battery is on it's last leg.
I'd like to avoid unnecessary fixes, it's only my winter car so as long as it's nothing major I'm not going to dump money in it. I'm going to take a guess and say the check engine light is coming on when these systems become ready. Plan is to try this re-set one more time hope for the best and if not replace exhaust or at least repair leak. Not sure on my next step for P0441 though. Vehicle is a 2004 Hyundai accent with 86k on it.
The X 6.0 was running rough at 1700 rpm and cold it barely ran at all. The dealer did full compression test - pass with no issue. Fuel pressure regulator was bad, they replaced it. They also replaced the fuel filter. That didn't work, so back to the dealer and they diagnosed that the injectors were not optimal for about half of the cylinders. The recommendation was to replace the injectors and they gave me their quote...time for some DIY.
So, I dive in; order and install Warren rebuilt stock injectors (new down tubes and dummy plugs as well). I also went ahead and replaced both oil cooler and screen as well as the EGR cooler with an aFE improved design. I also noted the Turbo was throwing oil into the intake so I replaced the turbo with the PowerMax. Additionally, I replaced the FICM with a BulletProof unit set at 53V. Heck, I went ahead and installed an XPD coolant filter system as well.
Got the X back up and running this weekend and she runs nice, smooth and with authority. So far so good.
This morning I start her up, notice that she isn't running as smoothly. I drive and now the X is not running with that real authority (not as much power but she runs) and I note that some roughness is once again apparent at 1700 RPM.
Obviously, all of this work didn't take care of the root of the problem. What else could cause this issue? Will Rev-X take care of it (I'll get some of that ASAP)? How did she run so well for a few miles and now the problem is coming back?
I have the PHP FICM programmer and am looking to install that next but I doubt that will eliminate the root problem. I don't want to get frustrated so I'm trying to approach this systematically.
The engine on my camry 2007 was overheated and I had the headgasket replaced but now it has misfire codes and rough idle this is a 2.4 engine I replaced 2 of the coils but still it has a rough idle... when the car is running it runs pretty good.
View 5 RepliesI've got a troublesome misfire in a 2007 Sonata V6, 70k miles, which I have been trying and failing to track down for a long time.
More than a year ago, the owner of the car complained of rough idle. When this was first mentioned, I looked at the car, she and I talked, and I concluded that she hadn't changed the oil in some 20k miles. ...... Nothing else seemed wrong. I changed the oil, thinking that what she needed was an oil change.
Some time later, I was in the car myself and all of a sudden felt a strong bucking. Must've been a misfire. I recommended taking it to the Hyundai dealer, thinking the so-called 100k mile powertrain warranty would cover whatever it was (it didn't but whatever).
We drove it to the dealer. The dealer firstly informed us that the CEL had burned out, so we had missed some codes. The dealer further us the car needed new plugs and replacement of both upstream O2 sensors. Here was what the mechanic wrote:
"BETWEEN 35-40 PUT CRUISE ON AND WILL FEEL. CHECK AND ADVISE COMES AND GOES. MULTIPLE CODES STORED IN SYSTEM. ... P0300 RANDOM MISFIRE (ACTIVE), P0140 O2 SENSOR CIRCUIT NO ACTIVITY, P0154 O2 BS S1 NO ACTIVITY. WATCHED O2 VALUES AND FOUND ERRATIC READINGS. FOUND TSB 10-FL-012 SUGGESTING REPLACEMENT OF BOTH UPSTREAM O2 SENSORS. RECOMMEND COMPLETE SYSTEM TUNE UP FOR RANDOM MISFIRE. HOWEVER MISFIRE COULD BE RELATED TO O2 ACTIVITY.
So the owner went to a different mechanic and had the plugs, upstream O2 sensors, and one of the downstream sensors replaced. All OEM, I believe. ($$$!) (O2 sensor parts 39210-3C100, -3C200, and -3C400) Dunno why the downstream one was replaced, not my doing.
Following this, there was no real improvement. No codes either. The problem comes and goes, so maybe I thought it was fixed, but it has come back. Sometimes, it can be felt just slightly when the car starts cold. Other times, it can be felt just barely when driving at a consistent speed. Sometimes, the problem becomes really bad and jerks the car around. Other times, nothing.
What to check next? Coil packs? Intake manifold gasket? She never gets "top tier gasoline," but I would be skeptical that that's the problem. These are the top three suggestions I've heard.
My 740 (1990, B230E, non-turbo) has been running rough at low rpm. Once above 1800 rpm or so it's fine. I've changed the Distributor cap and rotor arm (they were both shot), but the problem persists. I'm thinking injector relay or ignition stage amplifier next, but I don't want to just through parts at it.
The plugs were changed 3 months/1,500 miles ago. The misfire is intermittent.