Rodeo :: 2000 4WD LS Transmission Leak After Parking
Feb 2, 2004
Just started to notice a leak that appears after I park. Leaves a few drips and stops. Drive shaft is covered with fluid though so I know its getting bad.
I've not been able to find any plugs other than the one in the bottom of the pan. The leak itself is coming from a circular object which is inserted into the side of the transmission about midway back on the right side. The object (is this a plug?) is about 1.5" in diameter and is held in place by an internal C ring. Looks like it has a bad O-ring or something.
What this is and how to fix? Also, is this in fact the filler plug, if not where are they. I've seen several areas that might corresponding to where the manual says they should be, but they are all blanks.
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My tranny is stuck in limp mode. I can manually shift it, but it won't shift on it's own. The 'automatic' part of the automatic transimission is definitely not working right.
I searched and checked for the usual suspects, low battery or alternator output (measured over 14v at batt. when on), and the range selector switch. I removed the switch, took it apart, cleaned it up, and reinstalled it. It looked like it was in decent shape inside, although it appeared to have had a bit of oil of some sort that had leaked into it. There was a bit of oil on that side of the tranny, around the gear selector and switch, but not enough to actually drip as I don't have any stains on my driveway where I always park. The only thing I haven't checked is the atf fluid level, as I can't seem to find the my wrench that will take off the fill nut. I'll get that figured out tonight.
The tranny hasn't been taken care of like it should, I've had the fluid replaced two or three times over 100k of ownership, but I'm not sure about the filter. Would the need for a filter and fluid change cause it to go into limp mode? Also, it's not throwing any CEL codes either.
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I just noticed last night that my transmission was slipping in 3rd gear, it's an automatic. I added just about a quart of transmission fluid today....took a little drive and it still seems to be having the same problem? What might be causing this besides needing to get a new/rebuilt transmission?
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Started smelling antifreeze. Losing it towards the back of the engine, leaking onto the exhaust. Too hot to get underneath at the moment.
Heater core? Freeze plug? Head gasket? Other hose at the back of the engine?
It's nothing at the front. Not the radiator or either hose like I hoped it would be.
It's running fine. No noticeable compression loss. 273K miles.
Will check water level when cooled a bit. Overflow still has antifreeze in it.
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Got a '98 rodeo 3.2 with 160k. A couple weeks ago when stopping at red lights I noticed the temp gauge creeping up to the hot when stopped. This happened about 4 years ago and I was just low on coolant. I kind of figured that was the problem this time and added coolant. Then I started noticing coolant on the ground dripping from the skid plate a little toward the passenger side. The vehicle is parked on the street in front of my house so the vehicle may lean slightly to the passenger side. This rodeo is only driven during the week and then sits for 2-3 days on the weekend.
Over the last couple weeks I have noticed that it doesn't really leak during the week when it's being driven daily and if it does, it's just a drop or two. Now when it sits for 2-3 days there is a pizza sized leak under the vehicle probably about 18 inches wide. Since the overflow wouldn't hold coolant, I figured that it was cracked or had a leak. I removed the reservoir and didn't find a leak. I seen no evidence of a leak anywhere else, however since it's dripping from the skid plate, I assume that it's leaking on the front side of the engine. What to check. Seems strange that it doesn't really leak when running or hot, only when sitting for a few day.
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My new/used 2000 4x4 excursion with 214000 miles on it has a transmission fluid leak.
It could be a rear portion of pan gasket but it seems to be coming out of the area where the transmission bolts to the extension housing.
I just put a transfer case in it. Thought all the fluid all over was due to exploded T case.
It seems the output shaft seal may be bad. I cannot seem to find an OEM part number for this seal.
What is part number for this seal, if one exists? Maybe the seal is in the extension housing and it's just the gasket between Trans and housing.
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got a 2000 rodeo that dies whenever I stop for light. I have replaced plugs.fuel filter and had fuel system cleaned, also ran seafoam thru EGR and brake booster but it still dies out.
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I started experiencing a delay in my shift points going from 2nd to 3rd gear. Then today I was driving and my automatic transmission wouldn't shift into third gear...the speedometer stuck at 20 mph...and it would rev all the way to red line, but wouldn't shift.
There is no "abnormal" noise coming from the transmission, or from the drive train. I suspect that this has something to do with the shift points and the computer rather than a mechanical problem with the transmission.
I would like to know what it could be before I take it into the dealer to get it diagnosed.
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My Rodeo stalled after hitting a nice sized rain puddle on Friday. It was mainly on the passenger side. This happened to me about 10 months ago and I had it towed to a repair center and was told it was the timing belt. Few days and $600 later i got vehicle back. Ran fine till this puddle. Is it possible this could be the timing belt again? All the research I have done has not said this was an option. I need diagnosing this problem. The vehicle has been sitting for a few days and will crank but not turn over.
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My 2000 Passport is really sluggish when taking off. It goes really slow and then eventually picks up speed. I was thinking it was the transmission but last week the car wouldn't start either. So we replaced the battery and then it started. Wondering if this is an electrical issue that is causing this and not the transmission.
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I just recently acquired a 2000 Isuzu rodeo. The last owner said their girlfriend drove it with low oil, and it damaged the engine. On starting the car, there is a somewhat loud clicking/tapping noise from the engine. It speeds up if you step on the gas, and seemed to be louder with the camshaft cover off. I believe it to be an issue with a valve or cam or some other part in the head, but the person I am working ont his car with thinks the problem lies in the lower end, and wants to rebuild that.
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I have a 2000 Isuzu Rodeo with 230,000 miles. The A/C is cold when first turned on after start up, warm or cold engine. After about 5-8 minutes running on a sunny day, driving or at a stop, it starts blowing warm. If I shut the A/C off and leave it off for 30-45 seconds, it will blow cold again. On an overcast day it will blow cold for 15 minutes or more.
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2000 Amigo 3.2L V6.
My check engine light came on, and I went to autozone to get the code read. The code was P0446, "a malfunction in the electrical circuit for the vent control in the evap emission control system." I was wondering if this could be a simple fix...would cleaning the EGR valve do anything to get rid of this? Maybe this could work, but before the light came on, the amigo was taking awhile to start up (usually 4 cranks, with me pressing on the gas). And oh yeah, the check engine light didn't pop up until after I let the car sit for 12 days, while I was on vacation.
I also have a side problem...when I turned on my car for the first time after my vacation, besides the check engine light popping up for the first time, my ABS light also came on. I've tried the whole turning off, turning on the car and driving real slow process, but the light remains on. It just seems really interesting that both lights came on right after my car was sitting for awhile.
I'm thinking about taking the amigo to the dealership to get it checked out.
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The MIL light on my Rodeo keeps illuminating with code P0401 "Low EGR flow". I had the EGR valve replaced and it ran fine for a while but came back on less than a week later. It was then found to have a leaking intake manifold gasket (which was still covered by warranty) but the code still came back on less than 24 hours later. This has been going on for about 2 weeks and no one around here seems to know why. What else would cause this code to be returned?
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So I just had both cats replaced and now the car is running very rough and trowing out mis-fire codes. What could cause this? Going to disconnect the battery to reset the computer to see if that might work.
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As stated in the title, I have a 2000 Isuzu rodeo s fwd v6 SUV. While driving on the road recently I lost my speedometer, odometer, and cruise control. The odometer is digital and I can still read the display when the car is on, however the number never changes. There is a little over 185 K on the odometer. I did some research on my own and figured the problem was my vehicle speed sensor (VSS). I thus bought one, changed it without problems, yet my problem persists.
Now when I drive for a bit, and come to a stop my vehicle sometimes stalls. Not all the time though. I figure even though the VSS is good (I changed the second one I put in again for a factory VSS and still I get no change) maybe the signal isn't getting to the ECM. What are my other options for the issue? Could it be the cluster behind the console? Is there a speedometer cable in this vehicle that could be causing this problem? Is there some little selenoid somewhere that is bad and is causing these problems?
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I have a transmission ('86 Bronco C6 transmission without OD) leak around the vacuum which wobbles like it is loose and around the square bolt behind the kick down assembly. What do I need to fix these leaks? I am planning on changing the pan gasket as well because it also has a leak. I will change the filter while in there if it looks bad. It probably has not been changed since '86.
Also, can I use a solvent caustic degreaser for cleaning the outside of the transmission. I have been trying to clean the bottom of the truck for painting and even point blank pressure washer will not remove the grease caked mud and I need something stronger to remove it.
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I notice this lound noise while I change from P to R/N/D. Is this normal?
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This has happened to me twice (just today and about a month ago). The first time I was just sitting in the car, turned it off. It was hot outside so I just hit the power button without my foot on the break to start up the air conditioner. After a few minutes, a message pops up on the screen saying something about the transmission couldn't put the car in park and to park it on a level surface. I was on a level surface. I tried to start the car and it wouldn't start. After several tries, including inserting the key fob in the slot it finally started.
Today, I had almost the same scenario, only I was just returning to the car. Four warning lights came on, the parking break light was on (even those it wasn't engaged), and again the transmission message came up, saying I should move the car to a flat surface. After fiddling around, I got the car started again and immediately went to the Toyota dealership. I was just there yesterday getting an oil change and a once over safely check before I head back north which is a total of 24 hours of driving over several days.
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I have a 08 Subaru 2.5i Impreza and until now I thought this was a fluke but it is happening more frequently this week.When I park my car I engage the the parking brake and put the shifter into first gear, turn the car off ... etc... When I go back to the car I depress the clutch, start the car, apply the brake and disengage the parking brake. I then proceed to shift to reverse to back out of my parking spot, here is where the problem lays. More often then not the car shifts to reverse and I am on my way but every so often the shifter refuses to go into reverse until I release and depress the clutch pedal. After that it drops into reverse and away I go.
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Its a 2000 jetta. Turn signals and brake lights all work fine. The parking lights don't work the bulbs seemed a little burned but filaments are fine. I tried replacing with bulbs from autozone and they had the sylvania 1156 so I tried that and came home and they did not work. So I go onto the autozone web site and it says to use the 1156A. Would that really matter? I couldn't find anything else. I did some searching and found some stuff saying my light switch could cause this. is that a common thing? How can I check this? I am fairly new to the MKVIs as i switched over from a b3.
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