Rodeo :: 1999 Isuzu Won't Start After Long Distance Driving
May 13, 2009
I have a 99 Isuzu Rodeo V6 - Auto Trans. The car operates fine, however when driving long distances - say 150 - 200 miles if I stop and try to restart within 5 minutes it will not start. It will attempt a start but choke out - and sometimes not even that - it just has the low click of the starter. Temp. gauge registers normal - not sure if it's an overheating issue - but nothing indicates that. Car will eventually restart (or at least has to date) after a 15-20 minute rest period. I had some issues early last year - had the EGR valve replaced, thought that had solved it..
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As stated in the title, I have a 2000 Isuzu rodeo s fwd v6 SUV. While driving on the road recently I lost my speedometer, odometer, and cruise control. The odometer is digital and I can still read the display when the car is on, however the number never changes. There is a little over 185 K on the odometer. I did some research on my own and figured the problem was my vehicle speed sensor (VSS). I thus bought one, changed it without problems, yet my problem persists.
Now when I drive for a bit, and come to a stop my vehicle sometimes stalls. Not all the time though. I figure even though the VSS is good (I changed the second one I put in again for a factory VSS and still I get no change) maybe the signal isn't getting to the ECM. What are my other options for the issue? Could it be the cluster behind the console? Is there a speedometer cable in this vehicle that could be causing this problem? Is there some little selenoid somewhere that is bad and is causing these problems?
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I just changed the fuel pump on my 98 Isuzu Rodeo and now it wont start. The pump is getting power because i can hear it humming. Fuel is getting to the fuel rail, I checked the the shrader valve. I tested the battery and its fully charged but it wont start.
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1999 Isuzu Rodeo V6 3.2L MT 263,500 miles 2WD
I often, but not always, hear a loud "snap" when turning left, usually when executing a 90 degree turn.
It's been happening over the past few weeks. Seems to be coming from mid-vehicle but hard to be sure from the driver's seat.
No other symptoms. No vibration, no steering wheel shake, no noise while driving. I don't feel anything when I hear it.
I originally thought it may be a U-joint, but now that I found it happens only when turning left, that seems less likely?
It's a loud snap, could it be an engine or transmission mount?
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I just bought a 2005 Scion XA for commuting but am considering driving it from Maine to Maryland and am concerned about driving long distance at highway speeds with 3200 RPM at 65 MPH. Is this ok?
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I have a problem with my car I notice 2 time when I was driving from city to province about 270km distance and speed 102km/h my car was appear red check engine sign I don't know what is the problem. Last time it was disappear by its self after 2 days ...
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I have a 2000 X 7.3 diesel with under 100,000 miles. I drive it about 10,000 miles a year, all towing. However it does get used everyday driving a student to the bus, a distance of about 10 blocks. There is an engine block heater which I use all winter but the engine never warms up on the ten block run. I do service the engine twice a year, every six months. What damage am I doing and what can I do to prevent any damage?
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Recently I replaced my front rotors, brake pads, bearings (inner, outer, seals, races).....all on the front. I replaced these d/t the fact that the shop told me my rotors were warped (plus the pads were worn and it's recommended that you replace the bearings at 60,000).
When braking the vehicle starts shaking and it feels like the brakes slip on and off when gripping the rotors. I thought replacing the rotors would solve this(since the old ones were warped), but it hasn't. It still does this even though all of the above mentioned are new......and I had a shop look over my work after replacing all of this and it was fine.
Neither place I've had my brakes looked at noticed any other problems....so could it be something outside of the brakes, perhaps dealing with the wheel? I do not feel any shaking when driving, even at high speeds....only when braking.
1999 Isuzu Rodeo V6 4WD
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I have water in the oil. I want to use blue devil, sealant. Should I flush the cooling system, running the vehicle with milky oil? or should I change the oil?
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I am having to replace my 94 isuzu rodeo engine because after my oil was changed by a shop, the oil pan plug came out on the freeway and the engine seized up.
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got a 2000 rodeo that dies whenever I stop for light. I have replaced plugs.fuel filter and had fuel system cleaned, also ran seafoam thru EGR and brake booster but it still dies out.
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I have a 1994 Rodeo that they can't seem to diagnose what is wrong with it. I love my Rodeo but lately when I start it (and it starts very quickly every day), the gas, battery and brake lights light up and remain on during the 5 mile drive to work. It is an automatic V6. I cannot use the power windows, wipers or the heat/air while these lights are on. Okay, I can use the windows and wipers but they move so slowly.
I have tried to sit and let it warm up thinking they would go out but nothing happens - the lights stay on.
The return trip home from work, the lights usually turn off as I turn into my driveway. I have had the charging system checked and the battery and everything says it is fine and charging just right.
Another odd thing is once in a while when I am on a long drive - Interstate or country roads with no stops - the check engine light pops on. Once I remove my foot from the gas or I stop and let it idle, the light goes out only to come back on when I depress the gas pedal.
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My 02 Isuzu Rodeo will over rev before shifting into 3rd. The problem is intermittent and only happens when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. Shifting is smooth in all other gears. The car will not accelerate while the motor is revving between gears. The fluid was recently replaced.
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The Rodeo runs great, looks great, and very clean, EXCEPT when I start to accelerate from stop lights, or just before it stops, it bumps, knocks or jerks a little. Feels like the noise is coming from the rear end. what is causing this noise and how to correct the problem?
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My Rodeo stalled after hitting a nice sized rain puddle on Friday. It was mainly on the passenger side. This happened to me about 10 months ago and I had it towed to a repair center and was told it was the timing belt. Few days and $600 later i got vehicle back. Ran fine till this puddle. Is it possible this could be the timing belt again? All the research I have done has not said this was an option. I need diagnosing this problem. The vehicle has been sitting for a few days and will crank but not turn over.
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I've got a question about my 1998 Isuzu Rodeo LS. I've owned it for about a year and a half and I haven't had any complaints so far. However, about six months ago (you can see how quick I am to get on these things!) the car developed this little quirk. Whenever I get in the car and turn the key the car will try to start up but fails about half the time. It always starts on the second try but only sometimes on the first try. It seems to start easier right after I've filled up and is noticeably worse when I'm close to empty.
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I've replaced the relay and bulbs for my '92 Rodeo but only the brights work when I pull my dimmer switch. How do I fix this and what is the cause of this??
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I have a 98 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2 V6 2 wheel drive I don't know where the crank shift position sensor is located. I don't have 310.00 to pay someone to replace this.
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I just recently acquired a 2000 Isuzu rodeo. The last owner said their girlfriend drove it with low oil, and it damaged the engine. On starting the car, there is a somewhat loud clicking/tapping noise from the engine. It speeds up if you step on the gas, and seemed to be louder with the camshaft cover off. I believe it to be an issue with a valve or cam or some other part in the head, but the person I am working ont his car with thinks the problem lies in the lower end, and wants to rebuild that.
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I have a 2000 Isuzu Rodeo with 230,000 miles. The A/C is cold when first turned on after start up, warm or cold engine. After about 5-8 minutes running on a sunny day, driving or at a stop, it starts blowing warm. If I shut the A/C off and leave it off for 30-45 seconds, it will blow cold again. On an overcast day it will blow cold for 15 minutes or more.
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I have a 1999 Isuzu Rodeo LSE, 110, 000 miles that shakes/vibrates, A LOT, when I go over the smallest bump on the road. I purchased new tires last winter and it ran smooth for about a month then back to shake/vibrate.
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