Rodeo :: 1999 Honda Passport Door Latches Non-functional
Dec 28, 2014
My son has been offered a '99 Honda Passport by his Grandmother. All four outside door latches are non-functional.
View 1 RepliesMy son has been offered a '99 Honda Passport by his Grandmother. All four outside door latches are non-functional.
View 1 RepliesI own a 97 honda Passport (270,000 miles). My air con functions okay, the problem is the noise. At idle+air on, the revs drop and an unusually loud whine can be heard. Increase the RPM and it goes away. Friend says it the AC clutch, may not be getting full 12V signal.
View 2 RepliesI have a 99 honda passport, runs like a dream. Let me say it also IDLES perfectly.
I usually get about 300 miles to the tank, but now my miliage has dropped significantly. The check engine popped on and off for awhile and now its on steady. The computer reads the error of "Insufficient EGR Flow". My mileage has dropped down to about 240-250.
I've already put a brand new EGR Valve in it. That's the only code the computer reads.
I know my mechanic cleaned out the valve part itself I don't' know if he did anything other then that.
When he put the new valve on the car ran without the check engine light for a day then came back, and if I am not mistaken my gas mileage was back to normal, but since the check engine light has come back on the mileage has dropped back down again.
Why my '01 Passport will not start? Was driving down the road and it just shut down on me. It cranks but will not fire. Replaced timing belt, fuel pump, and now ECM still not luck. I know it's getting fuel to the rail but no spark!
View 1 RepliesMy 2000 Passport is really sluggish when taking off. It goes really slow and then eventually picks up speed. I was thinking it was the transmission but last week the car wouldn't start either. So we replaced the battery and then it started. Wondering if this is an electrical issue that is causing this and not the transmission.
View 1 RepliesEvery time I start this car there is a strong smell of gasoline. I've already checked for leaks and didn't find any. Could this be caused by the fuel canister in the rear of the vehicle this has gone bad?
View 2 RepliesI'd like to know the number of bolts and locations for removing intake manifold for 1999 Honda Passport.
View 4 RepliesAre MK4, MK5, and New Beetles door latches interchangeable?
Looking at replacing my front passenger side latch.
The Mk4 part number is: 3B1837016CF.
The Mk5 and all New Beetles part number is: 3B1837016CG, the only difference being the G at the end.
My 2 door Golf has an issue.
Door closes, latches, door switch is activated (no chime, no interior lights on, all seems normal.)
From the outside it is not sitting flush to the body. From the inside I can hear a lot of road noise.
I inspected the hinges, weather stripping, door jamb, no obvious problems. I have slammed the door and pressed very firmly. At best I can get it closed, but I can pull it back 'open' very easily.
Sounds like I have a faulty door latch but need to confirm this before I start tearing into it??
My car is over due for an oil change, well my oil light for my car came on. Well when I checked the oil dipstick it showed i needed to add oil, i did this just so i wouldn't lock my motor down trying to get it to the car shop to have the oil changed. Well after adding about 4 quarts of oil to my car it still shows i need to add oil but im below the add level...and my car isn't leaking oil and i know im putting the oil in the right spot so what is wrong with it...
View 18 RepliesI have a 2001 Honda Passport (similar to the Isuzu Rodeo). When I accelerate, I hear a rattling sound. I've taken it to three different mechanics, each of whom have diagnosed the problem as something different, ranging from $400-$4000 solutions. One even warned me that my car would "explode" on the highway somewhere, and drop out all of its innards. How to decipher what the problem is?
View 17 RepliesI've got White smoke coming out of my tail pipe of my 94 Honda Passport and I've checked the oil on it and its not milky like I feared it would be. I had some over heating issues after replacing the water pump and all the timing belts. Ran okay for about 2 days, 30 mile drives those days. Replaced some old hoses but it still overheats. Was told by a friend I could be losing coolant from the old radiator cap, replaced it and now I hear a gurgling outta my reserve coolant whenever I remove the cap; which I've never heard before. I don't know much about cars besides your general oil changes and flat tires.
View 6 Repliescar revs real high sometimes, other times just won't idle for long with out dying. getting harder to restart after it dies.have changed fuel sensors, oxygen sensors, throttle sensor,mass /map sensor. Whats going on with my car!
View 4 RepliesI have a 2010 prius and my driver main controls don't work. My driver window has no auto function but still rolls up and down but my door lock controls and all other window controls are completely non functional. I don't know what to do!!!
View 19 RepliesI just got a 99 F250 PSD, it had not been in 4wd in a while, now the hubs won't unlock.
My 01 F250 seemed to have strictly manual hubs. Turn right to lock, left to unlock. They may have been aftermarket, but on by the PO. Do I need to put some new Warns on the 99? Or can I lube then up and get them functional.
I blew a fuse yesterday replacing wiring on my door, and my car wouldn't start, the alarm light blinked but never sounded, and my trunk no longer latches. i replaced the fuse, and all of my problems were fixed, minus the trunk latch. it's clearly electrical, it's not recognizing that it needs to latch closed when being shut. I'm about to blindly just double check for the possibility of another blown fuse, but after that, I'm stuck.
View 2 RepliesBoth of my headlight sprayer latches will not close properly and will open when I park on a decline or have a hard stop.
View 1 RepliesDrivers door wont open using inside door handle. It will open using the outside handle. Door locks are functioning using key, inside door knob, and door lock buttons. Problem started this am. I tried squirting WD40 into the latch, without taking anything apart...and am thinking of removing the inside door panel and getting a better look.
View 1 Replies1999 Rodeo LS 3.2L V6 M/T 287K miles
It has been starting "harder" a few times per day over the last week. Sometimes it starts right up normally, quick crank and no gas. Other times it requires much more cranking and then a few taps of the pedal to start.
It seems to be happening more frequently over the past few days but it will always start.
I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel filter (external) along with the air filter, and that seemed to do it the first day, but then the occasional hard starting returned.
I also swapped positions of the fuel pressure relay and the heater relay just to see if maybe the pump relay was sticking intermittently, which I didn't think was happening since I can hear the fuel pump running when I turn the key before cranking the engine.
No hesitation while driving/accelerating, runs fine once started. Starts hard at different times during the day.
I'm planning to change the spark plugs this coming weekend just because they're due, but I don't expect that to cure this since it runs great once started and I have no CEL.
Started smelling antifreeze. Losing it towards the back of the engine, leaking onto the exhaust. Too hot to get underneath at the moment.
Heater core? Freeze plug? Head gasket? Other hose at the back of the engine?
It's nothing at the front. Not the radiator or either hose like I hoped it would be.
It's running fine. No noticeable compression loss. 273K miles.
Will check water level when cooled a bit. Overflow still has antifreeze in it.
1999 Rodeo LS V6 3.2L MT 277,000 miles. Over the past few months, I've been experiencing brake "chatter" occasionally at a stop.
It seems to happen mostly on hot days, and within the first few miles of driving, but I haven't recorded that data in any detail. It's right when I'm getting to a complete stop. It's a chatter that shakes the car when applying the brakes.
I thought at first that it seemed to be coming from the rear, but sometimes it feels like it may be at the front, or maybe it's happening at both.
I pulled the rear shoes and front pads to check the pads, shoes, rotors, and drums but found nothing. I did have a frozen bolt (pin) on one of the front brake calipers, but I fixed that and it still happens, but only occasionally. Some days it doesn't happen at all, and on other days it happens a few times.
The stuck caliper pin wasn't binding the caliper, I just couldn't get the pin out, but soaking the threads in liquid wrench, tapping it, and applying a little leverage freed it up. Before that I could easily spin the disc by hand.
It has never happened in the morning, but seems to happen mostly around mid day and early evening and mostly when the day has been especially hot, which seems strange, but that's how it's been.
It isn't the same feeling as the ABS being applied in a high speed slippery situation, but it is kind of at that frequency.
It feels like the pads or shoes are chattering on the braking surface, but neither of the pads, shoes, rotors, or drums show any signs.
If maybe this is a typical symptom of a master cylinder going out? That is a central common point for all brakes. It's a 1999 with 277K miles on it and the master cylinder is original, so.....