Rodeo :: 1997 2WD - Dash Warning Lights Lit Up And Electrical System Not Charging
Jun 16, 2014
1997 3.2 2WD 299,000 miles original alternator
3 times in the last month when I start up first thing in the morning dash warning lights are lit up and the electrical system is not charging. AC doesn't work and windows operate very slowly. A simple rev of the engine has resolved the problem. However, the belt is very tight (and I mean very) and there is no indication of it slipping.
This morning, a rev didn't solve the problem. I only work a few miles from home and my mechanic is also very close so I just figured to head that direction. About 1/4 mile later charging kicked in and everything worked just fine.
I hate Intermittent electrical problems Where to start.
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My 2008 2wd 4.0l XLT is having a strange power steering issue. When I start the truck and back out of my driveway it feels like I have no power steering. Within about ten seconds of putting the truck in reverse the "check charging system" warning comes on the dash. As long as it is on I have no power steering. That warning stays on for about 15-20 seconds and then goes away. As soon as it goes away power steering is restored.
I have checked my battery and it is good, it is also pretty new. The power steering fluid level is good. Based on another thread that seemed to have a similar issue I replaced the serpentine belt, the idler pulley and the belt tensioner. No changes at all to the issue. My next step is to replace the power steering pump....
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Just recently now the dash warning lights stay on or come back on shortly there after when the key is removed. I replaced the ignition switch. I can even leave the wiring to it disconnected with the same result. When the positive battery cable is removed and reconnected I can hear relay or relays clicking.
I pulled all one at a time next to the master cylinder in the two boxes. same result. I pulled all relays in the fuse box in the cab one at a time. no change.
Maybe related about a month ago the hvac fan stayed on. we had to turn that to the off position to remedy that. than it "fixed" itself. Starting points to check on this 4.6 with 361k on the clock 99% original....
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I have a 1994 Rodeo that they can't seem to diagnose what is wrong with it. I love my Rodeo but lately when I start it (and it starts very quickly every day), the gas, battery and brake lights light up and remain on during the 5 mile drive to work. It is an automatic V6. I cannot use the power windows, wipers or the heat/air while these lights are on. Okay, I can use the windows and wipers but they move so slowly.
I have tried to sit and let it warm up thinking they would go out but nothing happens - the lights stay on.
The return trip home from work, the lights usually turn off as I turn into my driveway. I have had the charging system checked and the battery and everything says it is fine and charging just right.
Another odd thing is once in a while when I am on a long drive - Interstate or country roads with no stops - the check engine light pops on. Once I remove my foot from the gas or I stop and let it idle, the light goes out only to come back on when I depress the gas pedal.
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tonight at 1am: I put the key in and turn the ignition, no start, no click, no dashboard warning lights, no nothing. headlights don't turn on at allearlier in the afternoon - didn't check headlights, but no start, no click, no dashboard warning lights. Sliding 1 key into the ignition gave me a somewhat steady buzzing sound from the car, the kind you get to indicate something electrical is happening (I guess that's what it's for.
I wish I were mechanically inclined.) Sliding the other key into the ignition gave me a much more sporadic buzzing sound. Like metal wasn't making contact, when it should. A few hours previous in the morning - car wasn't starting as described above. Someone pushes the car back from the front so we can make way for another car, to come in and give me a jump. I put the car in neutral, and notice that the dashboard lights and buzzer is on, so on a hunch, I try to start the car in neutral and it starts right up. I drive it to the home driveway, no problem.
2 days ago, I bought the car. A 97 nissan sentra. What it could be? Again, never a clicking sound when starting the car to indicate dead battery. I'm familiar with that.
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All bars are green. Blue light is ON.
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A few days ago my charging system warning light came on in the middle of my trip home from work.
I popped the battery out and took it to Advanced (in my other car) and they tested the battery, it was fully charged and was in good condition. So I popped it back in my car and when I started the car I didn't get the warning light on my way back to Advanced.
They tested my battery again, along with my starter and charging system. Everything looked good, except one of the terminals on the battery was a little loose so we tightened it. Next time I started my car the light was back on.
Also, I looked at the belt and it didn't appear to be cracked, but I'm not completely sure how to verify if it's in good shape.
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Problem with my '86 Celica's charging system. Car has about 135,000 miles and original alternator and belt. It is usually driven once or twice a week, but after sitting about 10 days, the tail light, brake, and battery warning lights came on when I started it. The lights went out after a minute. This same sequence of events happened the next three times I started the car that day. The fourth time, the lights went out but came back on as I drove. I found that revving the engine to between two and three thousand RPM made the light go off, but it sometimes came back on. And the engine revving isn't a sure thing now. Hit and miss. My wife and I have been trying to diagnose the problem.
When the warning lights are on, the dash voltmeter is near the bottom of the operating range. After revving and the lights going off, the voltmeter jumps up near the top of the normal operating range indicating the battery is charging.
The belt is checkered on the inside but not frayed. It deflected about 7/16ths inch midway between two pulleys about 17" apart. The Haynes manual said 1/2 inch was maximum deflection for that span. No unusual noises from the alternator.
We ran a checklist from my Haynes manual but I think it has an error in it. Here are the two steps that don't make sense. I marked the parts that seem to contradict with asterisks.
h) Disconnect the battery cables (negative first, then positive). Inspect the battery posts and the cable clamps for corrosion. Clean them thoroughly if necessary. Reconnect the cable to the negative terminal.
i) With the key off, insert a test light between the negative battery post and the disconnected negative cable clamp.
1) If the test light does not come on, reattach the clamp and proceed to the next step.
2) If the test light comes on, there is a short in the electrical system of the vehicle. The short must be repaired before the charging system can be checked.
3) Disconnect the alternator wiring harness.
(a) If the light goes out, the alternator is bad.
(b) If the light stays on, pull each fuse until the light goes out (this will tell you which component is shorted)."
Well, we decided that the last instruction in Step h should be to reconnect the POSITIVE cable (but could be wrong). I did this and we did Step i as written. The light came ON (Step 2). Disconnect the alternator wires at two points. Light stayed ON. Pulled every fuse under the hood and on the kick panel by the clutch. Light stayed ON.
The battery is near the end of its warranty period--about two-year old DieHard. Voltage at the terminals is about 12.4V with key out, about the same with ignition on but not running, the same with engine running and the dash lights showing, and about 14.5V after I get the dash lights to go off and the battery starts charging.
So, we're at a standstill. Tests say the tension on the belt is okay. The test light testing indicates the alternator is okay and the test light stayed on as fuses were pulled. The key was out of the ignition during the testing, but there are circuits that work without the key (brakes, hazard, headlights, etc.). Is the belt maybe slipping even though it is within specs on tension? What about the contradiction in the Haynes testing?
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I had just picked my kid up from school, as I turn out of the parking lot my A/C stops blowing cool air, I check the A/C screen and it still says it's set on High with temp at 68. However, it is blowing very low with warm air. Seconds later the dash lights up with numerous warning lights. I'm on the highway and I'm able to gather speed, but each time I do I hear the engine revving like crazy. We only live a few miles from the school so I am able to make it home. Once home, I turn off the car and turn it back on. The only warning lights displayed now are the red triangle and the yellow check engine light. I turn the car off, pop the hood, I check the belt and it was fine. I checked the oil and it seemed fine. I check the coolant overflow and it was empty.
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I have a 1997 Ford Expedition, 5.4. My research indicates that fuses 2. 19. 29 are associated with the instrument cluster (IC), could you identify their specific function in relation to the IC? My IC gauge lights are not showing and my alternator is not consistently charging. The blinkers, battery, oil, brake, and ABS indicator lights are showing in start. Regarding the alternator, my research indicates that a failing alt light on the IC may cause the no charging condition? As a note, I have a brand new battery, brand new alternator, brand new 3 pin wiring harness. Also, when the alternator is not charging and I connect the a jumper from the exciter wire directly to the pos battery terminal, the charging starts.
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1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE 180K 3.3L
I read other threads about the connections under the hood, both sides, which I unplugged and replugged. I also pulled the IOD fuse for a little bit. Then I removed the cluster and looked it over. Looked good to me.
Got code P1698 for manufacturers assembly control or something to that effect. Thought I checked all the usual culprits. The dash lights work fine, so does everything else. The dash gauges just don't work. This is something that has been an intermittent problem with the dash gauges going out periodically when hitting a bump. It leads me to believe a connection. But I checked all those.
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