Renault Laguna 1.8L 2002 - Engine Stalling When Applying Gas
Aug 27, 2015
My mother owns a renault laguna 1.8L 2002 model and has asked me to see if i could fix her car, the problem is that right after starting the car and driving for maybe a minute the engine starts stalling when applying the gas, we have to let go of the gas for a few sec and the engine recovers, it feels almost like if the engine chokes and lacks of fuel or air. I have replaced the lambda, O2 sensor to no success.
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So my 2002 Renault megane with only 70000 (km) in the speedometer, stops changing gear in the middle of the drive and doesn't go higher than the first gear (it's automatic). My mechanic did a restart for the computer 2 months ago and it was Ok until 2 days ago. What do you think should be done?
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My wife's 2002 Jeep GC has just started having the problem of stalling at speed. Happens without warning and will start back up with out any signs of trouble. No CEL. Car has a 6 cylinder with 130k miles and is well maintained. Have been reading around this forum and have seen a few people post similar issues. I will look at the connection at the ECU tomorrow. Is this a common area of trouble?
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Looking for a picture/location etc of where the crank position sensor is in the engine compartment? It seems to be a common issue where the engine stalls during driving and you pull over and are able to restart the vehicle and go on about your business.
My 02 has over 160k in miles and so am believing this part is going out according to what I've read here. My problem before was somehow the 2wire plug to the alternator worked it's way off and got that taken care of and so now while my wife is driving, it'll occasionally stall. Did a load test on the battery and it's good. Didn't check the charging system but not sure it needs to be tested.
By the way, have ran the diagnostics with the actron pocket obdII and no error codes came up and all looked good scrolling through everything.
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I have recently picked up this 2002 Ram 1500 quad cab and had the engine rebuilt because it was running rough. 2 weeks later After I'm driving for a bit, the engine starts shaking and feels like it losses compression and dies. It will not start for about 30 minutes and then it starts back up and I can drive for a few miles and it dies again. the longer it sits, the further I can drive. The head shop checked their work on the engine and could find nothing wrong with block or heads. they said the O2 sensors were clogged and replaced those for me. they also looked at the fuel filter and didn't see anything wrong with it.
I needed to know what direction to go from here.. Catalytic converter? Battery? Fuel Pump? I took the truck to the Service Dept at a Dodge Dealership... They checked it out and replaced the after-market O2 sensors with Factory O2 sensors and said it was running fine... As soon as We picked it up, it shut off again not 5 miles from the shop.. The service advisor tells me that his techs are scratching their heads on what could be the cause of this problem. I'm feeling that the problem lies in the fuel system somewhere, but not feeling confident in the dealer service to find my problem...
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2002 Santa Fe has Shimmy when applying brakes. Had tire balanced and rotated-no change. New brakes with life time pads one year ago. Rotors were turned. Should I replace the rotors and pads or just rotors? Am I on the right track for repairs?
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I have an '02 Tracker and I've noticed if I have several accessories running, that my engine will start to sputter and come to the verge of stalling when I come to a stop. It happens if I have the heat/air and radio or charging my phone on together. What is the cause and/or remedy for this? I've changed the alternator a few yrs. back, but it still continued.
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My 2002 7.3 will go dead when driving then not start up until after it has sat for a good hour. Then only run for about 10 minutes before dying again. The truck will stay running if left in park idling. It only stalls when it is driving.
I replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor and Alternator with Genuine Motorcraft parts. My next assumption is the ICP Sensor? Maybe. I do have a kill switch on the truck that I thought might be loose--but I'm not sure.
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Just got a new to me 02 Limited v8 - 128k on the clock
Noticed today while at a stop light that when I depress the brake pedal (after being stopped) it makes a squishy sound - the pedal feels different, but I don't know if spongy/squishy is the right way to describe it, it just sounds like you stepped on a waterlogged sponge.
Now the brakes definitely don't feel as good as my XLT brakes (recently replaced it due to rod knock - 02 XLT v6). It still stops but seems like it requires more effort and almost fades a little. I initially chalked up the difference in performance to me putting new rotors/pads on the XLT - Thermo-quiet semi's with Raybestos rotors.
However it appears after some brief reading this could be the master cylinder on its way out....is that accurate? I planned on taking my pads/rotors off the XLT before I ship it to the junkyard (less than 3k on that setup), but if its the master cylinder, I'd like to do that while I'm doing all my other tune up stuff this weekend
I'm gonna put it on the lift this weekend and see if there's any brake fluid stains to see if air is getting into the system, but looking at the reservoir over the past week I haven't noticed really any decline in fluid level.
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I have a 2002 Honda Civic EX 1.7L. Recently the brake pedal would sometimes go to the floor when I'd apply the brakes. The car would still stop, but not as quickly as normally. If I apply the brake and it goes to the floor I would release the pedal and reapply the brake and it would stop at it's normal position and the brakes felt firm and the car would stop fine. I was told my problem was the master cylinder so I bought one on Sunday and replaced it. I bled the lines and it seemed like all the air was out. The brakes worked great and the pedal stopped in the same place and was firm.
Now today on my way to work the pedal went down a little farther than normal during one stop. On the way home it stopped in different places. The brakes would always grab and the pedal felt fairly firm wherever it stopped. I drove it this evening again and the pedal went to the floor like with the old master cylinder. One pump and they grabbed in the normal spot. What is going on? Did I not bleed the lines well enough? Is the new master cylinder just junk? I saw in the manual that air can get trapped in the ABS sensor, but an air bubble problem should just make the pedal squishy, not change where it grabs, right? I'm stumped and I really don't want to take my car in if I can fix it.
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2002 Excursion 4x4. While applying my emergency brake today I heard a loud bang. Now, the parking brake won't come up when I pull the parking brake release. Also, the noise is driving me crazy. Is there a way to release the pedal until I can get the cable replaced?
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I have a 2002 f350 5.4l that has stalling issues, first some back round. Last week I pulled up the a stop light and the truck stalled I figured it was a iced fuel line as it was very cold so I put a bottle of drygas in the tank. Evidently there was a lot of moister in there because as soon as I started the truck check engine light came on and truck would not idle at all. I got through that tank and am now on my second tank. It is better but the truck will still stall when stopped at light (has never stalled in park or on the road only while stopped in drive) the check engine also light went off halfway through the first tank. What next?
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Got stuck in the sand pits today. While trying to get out by going forward and back. I always get the front end starts bouncing hard. I always let off. Is this wheel hop or axle wrap?
Whatever it's called. How do I minimize this. It's a shame to have all that power and not be able to lay it down.
2002 excursion 4x4 7.3 l all stock.
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I have a 2002 f150 with about 165,XXX miles on it. drove to work one morning and got out and locked the truck and the horn went off and wouldn't stop. after a few minutes of pushing the horn button down and applying pressure it finally stopped. well this went on for few days, and then it stopped so i figured it was done. Well few days ago i tried to push the horn down at another driver and it wouldn't work. then i realized that my controls on my steering wheel did not work either.
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I have a mk2 Clio 1.2 petrol with a manual transmission which I recently got as a first car a a family member was going to scrap it. I have have fitted a clutch and after doing this I noticed that the reverse lights are on all of the time when the key is on. I am unsure whether the lights were like this before I did the clutch, but I have gone back and ensured the the plug was fitted to the reverse light switch cleaning out the connector. This made no difference and (strangely to me) with the plug off of the switch the lights remain on. I have checked the wiring in the area I have worked for a short and have found nothing. The only thing I can think that is left that it can be is the reverse light switch, but I'm not convinced with the fact that the lights are still on with the switch unplug.
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I have a Renault Scenic of 2001 with a 1.4 petrol engine (hope you've heard of scenic before) that stall on start every time and i need to push the gas pedal a few times to get it start. That happens every time my car stays more then 20 minutes off, while surprisingly mornings starts faster than usual (that is without stalling) and keeps the idle high for several minutes (even in summer). Don't know if this is related but I also get vacuum in the gas tank (i guess) as it stops the fuel pump when refilling every 5 seconds.
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When I start the car, after a few seconds starts a high frequency noise. The noise is located in middle right low part of the car. Here is the recording of the sound: [URL] ....
The noise gets stronger after 14 sec of the video- when i get closer with recorder,.. And the image of the possible location: [URL] .... The image is near fuel tank, but doubt it has to do with the sound.
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Just bought a 2008 Clio dynamique 1.2 16v when starting the car up it would make a small grinding noise. Thinking it was a starting motor issue I went and took it apart cleaned and greased it up then put it back in, went to start the car up and got nothing no turning over or anything.
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My 2002 Toyota Camry XLE keeps stalling when the car is idling. I recently replaced the battery and tested the alternator and they are both fine. What could be causing the stalling?
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My car (2002 Camry, 65K Miles) stalls when I take foot off the gas pedal, this starter four days ago then it worked fine couple days later and the problem is back again. I did some research and cleaned throttle body, do I need to clean or replace IAC valve and EGR valve?
I also read on the forum to check the vaccum hoses for leaks, looking for more info on location fo the vacuum hoses and how to clean or replace them?
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My 2002 Mazda MPV will stall everytime after the rpms go over 2,000 and I let off the gas. I can put it in neutral and it will start back up. Not sure if something is clogged or its electrical? It has 177,000
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