Regal :: When Key Turned To Crank Position All Power Dies Inside Cabin And Nothing At Starter
Aug 7, 2014
Background:
New battery a month ago, connections are clean and tight
Replaced ignition switch 2 yrs ago.
Starter was taken off car and engages when directly hooked to a battery (month ago)
3rd time with this issue where the car won't start. Starter won't engage when key is in crankin start position. A month ago when the battery was replaced and starter was removed and 'tested' I had 12v to the purple wire on the starter - which should prove ignition switch is still good. All lights and power inside cabin is good. When key is turned to the crankin' position all power dies inside the cabin and nothing at the starter.
I first thought it was a weak battery connection. The second time this issue happened, I tightened the positive battery post and the car started. Today - no such luck. Both posts are tight.
Again the ignition switch was replaced a two years ago, however, I do experience issues with the key position and the climate control (a/c) from turning on. After the car starts, I slightly turn the key back and the climate control will turn on. I still don't believe the issue resides within the switch. Perhaps I'm wrong?
Is there anything between the ignition switch and solenoid on the starter? 2000 Regal LSE
View 6 Replies
Advertisement
Bought this 2010 ES 350 before last winter, never use the air-con until last week. After the air-con was turned off, here comes the odor! The fumes were so bad that I had to open up all the windows. Did take out the air filter to clearn, but odor still come back after air-con was turned off.
View 7 Replies
The customer brought in her 130,000 mile 2000 Mercury Grand Marquis complaining that the starter would click several times as she turned the key again and again, before it would make the the engine crank like crazy. I saw that the positive battery cable was badly corroded, and replaced the aftermarket end with a new aftermarket end. Everything was nice and clean. No difference. I tested the battery for load voltage with my good old Sun VAT-60. It tested good, sufficient voltage after 15 seconds under a 100 amp load. I removed the fuel pump relay so that the car would not stay running for long, and then would not start when the starter did engage. It drew 120 amps while cranking. That's within spec for a fully warm engine.
I think what she has is a bad solenoid atop the starter, or perhaps a bad spot on the commutator that moves slightly with each click until the brushes are in another position. Then it will turn OK.
I think a new starter is needed. Am I on the right track? I don't want to crawl under it unless I have to, and she doesn't have money for me to make a mistake.
View 4 Replies
We have a 2003 Explorer Sportrac and the fuel cap light came on. Then ck engine light came on. took it to a dealer to check it out. Said it has a fuel pressur issue. could be the cap or something in the fuel tank. it needs a pressure check they said. cleared codes and put new factory fuel cap on. 2 weeks later it happened again.
XLT model 108,000 miles on it and we are the original owners...
View 1 Replies
2013 f250 6.7 yesterday during drive through heavy rain fall noticed some clean water draining on my bare feet on passenger side of the truck right below glove compartment.
View 6 Replies
1997 Toyota Camry V6. The car won't start, the engine won't crank. I've checked for 12v constant at the starter and that's good. Next I checked for a 12v trigger at the starter. That wasn't present at the starter.
I went to the starter relay. Pulled the starter relay and tested it by applying 12v across two terminals and checked for continuity across the other two. It checked fine.
So I checked for constant 12v into the starter relay, that's present. Checked for 12v trigger into starter relay, that was present also. Next I jumped 12v through starter relay terminal into the starter and the starter cranked the engine. Next I checked for ground into the starter relay, I didn't have continuity.
So I'm guessing it's either a bad ground wire coming into the fuse box or maybe even a bad fuse box? Is my thinking correct? Or is there something else that it could be? Maybe a main fuse or something, IDK, this is the first time I've encountered a problem like this.
What wire is the ground source for the starter relay? I found a wiring diagram from Chiltons (which I've attached to this post for reference) but I'm not really sure which wire is the ground for the starter relay. I don't have the car or relay in front of me to look at the terminal numbers.
View 12 Replies
With -37C and -50C with windchill today, I tried starting my truck after being plugged in all night, and it was a no-go. Sounded like the starter turned over but didnt engage. On another note, what is with the glow plug light? mine lights up for a few seconds, maybe, then nothing. Today was the first time it ever stayed on for 5 seconds, and that was only after i tried cranking it over twice. First two times it didnt stay on.
I think my block is still maybe too cold,maybe dead batteries too, and yes the block heater had power made sure to check that, I notice my passenger side battery has some corrosion ontop (1000watt amp hooked into drivers side) so maybe I am needing better batteries.
Usually fires right up, haven't noticed a problem lately either starting. Gonna let it warm up some more, and I put a charger on the truck too, gonna go check the battery voltages and see what it says. This is the coldest yet I have tried to start the truck.
View 14 Replies
My wife has a 2002 Thunderbird. Sometimes it won’t start when you turn the key. I don’t mean it doesn’t crank or cranks slowly, nothing happens. You can hear relays clicking but obviously no power is getting to the starter - the lights don’t dim when this happens. We’ve had the starter motor replaced. My mechanic is baffled. Sometimes this happens hourly, sometimes it will go weeks without happening – it’s been doing this for at least a year. To get it started, you just need to sit there and keep turning the key 10 to 40 times. It will eventually start. She just informed me that sometimes she shuts off the car in something other than Park, them moves to Park. Can this mess up the xmission lever position lockout to cause this? How can it just start by turning the key, only, multiple times? Remember, you can hear relays clicking when the key is turned.
View 19 Replies
2003, 6.0,128K, original starter, I was towing a heavy trailer out of state, shut engine off at a gas station 2 miles from my destination. Truck started back up as normal. Continued on my way towing uphill. I backed in the driveway and shut it off for a half hour while unloading the trailer. Went back out, all lights came on with ignition, but no crank. I don't hear a click like a solenoid. I checked fuses, I got hung up on checking what looked like a solenoid on the passenger fender. Its a big relay, but now I;m thinking its for something else. I had to leave the truck out of state and was able to get a ride back. I won't be back there for two weeks. Should I bring a new starter? A 6.4 starter?
View 2 Replies
I have a 2003 camry v6 that doesn't start. There is no power to the fuel pump when the key is turned to the on position. Where is the relay for the fuel pump?
View 2 Replies
I start it cold then drive two miles, 1 in town 1 on the freeway. It is almost warmed up. For the last three days it dies when I stop at the light on the freeway off ramp, which is down hill. It always restarts but yesterday it run a little rough, some white smoke then it was OK. It runs normal when its warm.
No check engine or any lights. Today however I decided to let it warm up before I left the house. I'm in Arizona it was near 60 degrees. It idles slightly fast since it was cold. I went inside then when I come back out it died before it warmed up. It restarted & I warmed it up, no white smoke & never had a problem taking my usual route.
So it appears it is a cold problem until its warmed up. I have ohm/volt meter but I'm not sure what I should check? I spoke to a repair shop & he said maybe I should leave it overnight & they would check it the next morning.
I would like to check what I can before I leave it with them.
View 12 Replies
I have a 2005 Subaru Outback. I will be driving and lose all power to the car and it dies. I will try to restart the car and all the battery power will be on (lights, radio, power windows, etc.) however there is no sound when trying to crank the key. If I wait a little while or push the car, it will start back up with the check engine light on and cruise light blinking. I can drive it a block or so with decreased acceleration and it will die again. Brought it to my local shop and they could not recreate the issue (sat overnight). They cleaned the battery terminals and cleaned the throttle body. I drove it for about 3 weeks with no issues and the same exact thing happened again.
The shop told me the codes they got from the check engine were all communication codes (??). The only thing know about the two days the car broke down 3 weeks apart is I filled up the tank with gas on those days (but that doesnt seem like it would matter).
After sitting for an hour waiting for the tow truck. The car started up and he was able to drive it off the truck with no issue. I am totally lost here.
View 8 Replies
Truck sputtered and dies and will not crank again. Changed fuel filters and primed them still won't start. Tried the yellow with blue line wire to battery still will not crank. Checked fuses all are good. Batteries are good.
View 9 Replies
It's an 04 F250 with the 6.0, and has been there about five months now. The backstory I have been given is that it drove in running rough, gave crank position sensor codes, and the CPS was replaced. That was the last time it ran. Since then, it has had the CPS replaced five times, the FICM rebuilt then replaced three times, the engine harness replaced, and spent some time at Ford. It would only show about 30rpm while cranking. The engineer came and looked at it, said it must be the tone ring on the crank and that's it.
Here's where it's at for me: Cranking RPM peaked out at 57, but the fan rpm was about 180 while cranking and it sounded like it was cranking pretty quick. I disconnected the glow plug module, had another guy crank it while I gave it a quick shot of starting fluid, which it caught and started to run on. It sounded like it was running on fuel for a second, then shut back off and now cranks unevenly.
According to the owner this thing has seen lots of starting fluid in the course of diagnosing it, and there were no odd noises before it shut down so I suspect stuck valves from sitting so long. It did give me a whole bunch of codes which I will post tomorrow, including injector #4 high. I tried to do a buzz test but just got a message saying "unknown code, please wait" and then nothing.
View 11 Replies
Got a late 2004 6.0 that runs excellent. When it is cold (as in not running for half a day, not ambient temp) it dies as if the ignition gets turned off. You can start it right back up no problem. It has been slowly getting worse. You maybe have to start it back up 5-10 times before you can get going in the morning. Also you can hear a random click with ignition just in on position as if there is a connection issue in the dash and cuts ign in and out that I think may be the problem.
I swapped all the relays to different spots to try them. I don't think it's wiring because it does it when cold then works when warm. Guy thinks plugging truck block heater so maybe it work better somewhat. New CMP, CKP, FICM, and it doesn't make a diff. So it's baffling to me. It's obviously electrical and works better when truck is warmed.
View 14 Replies
It just started to die on him lately. Doesn't matter if he is driving or idling. When it dies doesnt sputter or anything. Won't crank up until next day and if it does start only runs for 5 min or so. Checked ficm 48.5 volts. Ipr while cranking is at 48% icp is about 1200 while cranking. The dash oil pressure or rpm gauge does not move but when I hook up my ids it shows 180 rpm. Changed fuel filters. New oil. Does fill up oil canister if I hold the drane button down. Getting fuel. Thought maybe ipr but thought I would check with you all. Unplugging the icp doesn't work. 03 motor with 180k miles.
View 9 Replies
I have a 2001 f250 ext cab long bed 4x4 that I use as a feed pickup. I have had it for about a year now. one of the issues I have noticed since I bought it is the issue I am having with the flywheel/starter. Its very random like maybe I have a missing tooth or something on my fly wheel. but every so often when I would go to crank my truck over it would just make a little whirring sound and nothing happen ( like my starter gear isn't sliding out and engaging my fly wheel.
After looking through my inspection cover I noticed I had a little wear on the sides but no teeth to my knowledge broken or stripped off. I noticed my starter had one bold loose but other two perfectly tight. It was also covered in oil and dirt from my truck sweating horse power I decided to replace my starter and have my original ford starter rebuilt. I replaced it with a NEW oreillys starter. I noticed it cranked about 5 times as fast but again every 10-15 starts I am getting the same no start. any thing I am over looking?????
View 6 Replies
Okay, let me start by saying that its not the battery, (got it checked and tried to jumps with cables) and I got nothing...I replaced the starter and powwow.. That wasn't the problem, so now I'm confused as crap... Only thing I got left is the ignition switch and neutral safety switch.. I tried to put it in neutral and got nothing..
Could it be the vats system, although my security light doesn't come on... But when I try to bypass the starter soliniod, it cranks but it dies in a matter of seconds.. And I heard the the anti theft system block the starter from firing up the fuel injectors...
View 4 Replies
Pulled 3 starters at the junkyard to replace one that has a bad solenoid. Have a 2002 Buick Regal LS with 3800 series II engine. Found some on 3100 engines and one from a 3800. My starter has about 10 teeth on the gear that engages the flywheel. Some of the ones I pulled had smaller gears with only about 8 teeth.
Why the difference? Also one GM Delco starter was slightly longer (about 1/2 inch) than mine and had a small black hollow tube about 1 inch long at the rear of the starter and at the bottom. It fell off when I touched it. Looks like it might be a drain hole in case some water gets in to the starter. What is this really for?
View 1 Replies
I have a 1999 7.3 super duty that won't crank when the key is turned. All lights work, power windows and mirrors work but after the WTS light goes out... Nothing...now I do have a slight leak in the roof and a little water does get in the cab. I opened my door the other day and it smelled like an electrical fire had occurred. I checked under the hood and the same smell, if not a little stronger. I pulled my fuse box and GEM tonight. Once I got away from the truck, I expected them to smell like the electrical fire smell, but they didn't. Now I did try cranking the engine over by jumping the starter relay before tearing the fuse panel out, and I got it to crank, but not strong at all. The batteries are good.
View 11 Replies
I have a 2003 6.0 powerstroke I was pulling into a gas station when it shut off like you turned the key off. The dash lights work power windows, door locks , radio, headlights, everything works except the fuel pump and the starter. I have a juice with attitude on it as well and it won't light up when you turn the key on. I have checked all fuses and relays. The fuseable link tested ok.
View 14 Replies
