Regal :: Surge And Missing If Try To Accelerate Even 1/3 Or More Throttle - MAF Code P0102
Jun 4, 2016
I have a 2001 Regal GS with 105K. It starts, idles and runs fine if I drive it like a Grandpa, but if I try to accelerate even 1/3 or more throttle, it surges and misses. It keeps giving a P0102 (Mass Air Flow A Circuit Low), sometimes less than a minute from resetting it, and other times after 5-10 minutes of driving. I've tried 5 MAF's, two of which were new, and one from a known good running L67 motor. Plugs are new and wires are good. The power and ground wire of the connector test good, but I'm not able to test the signal wire. I've also checked over all vacuum lines and hoses, and pressure tested the exhaust for a plugged cat. I even tried another TPS.
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Ok, my 1996 Buick Regal is acting up. I got a CEL, which was a P0306 (Cylinder #6 misfire), took the car to my shop, and they diagnosed as a faulty Ignition Control Module. Fast Forward, a day later, the car now has a hard start problem and throwing the same code, plus a P0102 Mass Airflow Sensor.
So my questions are:
1) Could a faulty ICM cause a single cylinder misfire, did they just replaced a random part? I would think a bad ICM would a multiple misfire considering on this car each coil controls 2 cylinders.
2) Are the two codes related? ie fix one, and the other would go away? or are they separate issues?
3) What could be wrong with my car?
This mechanic has been in my family for years, however, I'm not very pleased that a day later, my car seems to have more problems than before. Am I being too harsh?
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so i just bought my '06 sonata 2.4 lt 4 cyl and it had problems with idling when i plugged into the computer i got a p0101 error code saying there was an air flow problem... took it to the dealer since it is still under warranty and for $100 they told me it was my mass air flow sensor and it would be 4 days and $370 more to replace.
I was able to buy the part from napa and replaced the old one (very simple process) and at the direction of the dealer i was told to disconnect my battery for 15 or so minutes to clear the computer data.
When i powered everything back up the car idles and runs fine but i am now getting a check engine light with p0102 lower voltage than expected from the mass airflow sensor AND a new light popped on "ESC OFF" the button will not turn it back on and i cant think of anything I did would have turned it on?
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I keep having the P0102 (MAF Circuit Low) code come up. I've replaced the MAF twice already. I also have the P0113 (Intake Air Temp Sensor) which has been replaced as well. Could the breather hose coming off the Intake Air Duct leading to the oil cooler cause this.
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Trying to get my daughters Santa Fe going. Engine stalling. Idles very slow. 2001 model with 2.4 engine, auto trans.
Code P0102 is active. Cleared with scan tool and it comes right back.
Replaced the MAF and no change.
Checked the intake for leaks / vacuum leaks and none found.
Checked for debris up-stream from MAF and all is clear.
Air filter is clean and dry.
Checked harness plug and found the pin 5 has 4.6 volts on it from PCM. This is the signal wire from MAF to PCM. 4.6 volts is KOEO.
IS THIS NORMAL OR IS PCM BAD ??? All other pins / voltages on harness plug are normal.
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So today i got my first check engine in the .:R. I was merging onto the freeway and i shifted into third rather enthusiastically (didn't redline in 2nd but i was probably at 6k rpm) and put it into 3rd gave it the gas and the tires squealed and I got the traction control light. Has me a little worried since the traction control light didn't go off afterwards. Got off the freeway and pulled into a parking lot and turned it off for a minute and when i started back up I got the check engine light also. Went to schmucks and pulled the codes and the only code I was able to pull up was P0102 MAF circuit low. I highly doubt my traction control light has anything to do with the MAF circuit. I notice when in 1st and 2nd gear (can't really tell about beyond 2nd because there is too much road noise) there is a slight whine. I cleared the codes and the check engine came back but the traction control light never went off.
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1999 buick century custom .. 3100 motor .. 200k+ miles ..
It all Started 2months ago.. once every few weeks my car would hesitate during acceleration (leaving a light for example) but just once.Then started it up one day and it was idling rough..also stalled out twice.
Dropped it off at a shop after hours so he could check it out in the A.M.he calls n says its not acting up at all.
Get the car back and drive it 2 more weeks..then it happens again. Rough idle and hesitating...take it directly to the shop but its acting normal again by the time I get there (starting to feel like im crazy)
So I take things into my own hands... I change air filter, clean MAF and throttle body. Change the plugs and wires.
start it up and it seemed to run better than it ever has.. for about 5mins.I took it for a test drive and it started sputtering and bucking and eventually died to the point of undrivable.
Got towed home.NOW it starts dang near everytime but runs EXTREMELY rough for a few seconds before eventually dying. It will run a bit longer if I unplug the MAF (45seconds maybe) but runs like fecal matter the whole time
I have swapped out the MAF, EGR valve and IAC valve with parts from a 97 century (which runs fine)And nothing seemed to change the condition.
Changed fuel filterchecked fuel pressure with key on (41psi)Also replaced the timing chain and gears (thinking it slipped) but it didnt make a difference.
I pulled codes but all it had was a P0102 (MAF low input)But I think that might be from it being unplugged so many times?
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2001 jetta 2.0 VW guys a while back I was pulling a code saying that the air temp sensor circuit was low I believe it was P0112 so I replaced the maf with a bwd maf. Said it was for the car. Was fine for a day but now it has a P0102 code and the epc stays on (rough idle) what could be wrong ? Is it because the car hasn't learned the new sensor yet because I've only drove 10km or do I have a faulty sensor. BTW replacing the maf fixed the P0112 code
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CODE P0102 "Mass or Airflow circuit low input" That was the code and upon checking my records prior to storing it for the year. I installed a new IAC,MAF, Fuel Pump and lots of new hoses, PCV, Fuel injection regulator. The Vehicle has only 110K miles. Now here is the clincher, after doing just the fuel pump it ran perfect for at least 25 miles, perfect I say. When I shut if off I got the check engine light, and thus the code which led me to install the other stuff. Now after pondering the matter, seems that it acted in a similar way PRIOR to my doing anything but there was no code previously. Like maybe some strange electrical connection, or something.
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A few months ago my teg started idling a bit funny. Its got a chipped ECU and has always idled very low (500 - 750 rpm) once warm.
In the past few months however the revs have started fluctuation or surging. Basically once the engine is warm the revs drop right down to nearly 200 - 250 (the needle actually drops off so its hard to tell ), then the engine bounces back up to around 500 rpm. It then does this non-stop if I leave the throttle alone.
Ive found that resting on the throttle tends to solve the problem as I'm forcing the system to run constantly, however when letting off the throttle (or dropping out of gear), she drops right down gets really ragged then bounces back up to ~500. The drop and surge cycle takes roughly 2 seconds.
Ive taken it to an auto electrician who sat on it for 2 weeks and eventually shrugged his shoulders. I've heard that one factor could be the O2 sensor, however another camp has said ECU and yet another said throttle sensor.
Details of the car are:
94 Honda Integra (GS-R model)
B18C (Gen 1) motor - Enlarged throttle body, Gizmo chipped ECU, better breathing with a pod etc.
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My 1989 Buick Regal is making a grinding sound when I accelerate. It makes the sound slightly when it's just idling as well, but it definitely gets worse when I start going. It's been dying a bunch too. The engine will just shut off. The scariest part though, is when I pop the hood and have a look, there are shards of metal that I can only assume have been ground off, thus the grinding noise. It's near the belt, but that's all I really know because I'm not car smart at all.
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I have a 95 Buick Regal, V6 3.8 Liter. The symptoms are the following: stuttering idle. And lack of response at times when I try to accelerate. Like sometimes I'll be driving on the highway, and having no problems. Then I'll be going up a hill at around 55 mph, and then the car will shudder as I try to maintain a speed of 55 mph. So I have to ease off the accelerator and slow down. At first I thought this was a transmission problem, but I am guessing it's the same problem that causes my choppy idle.
So I had this acceleration problem on the highway when I was going up a hill. And a weak idle. These problems have been going on for several months now. They were annoying, but didn't seem that serious. Then all of a sudden, on a rainy day, the car was really responding poorly to acceleration at all speeds. I was able to drive around, but I couldn't count on the car responding right away when I hit the gas pedal. And the car would shudder at times. Then, I didn't drive the car for a few days, and then it was dry, no rain, and the car ran better. So I am thinking humidity makes the problem worse.
I have also noticed over the past few months, that the car runs best when I start it up after a few days of not running it. Then if I drive the car a few miles and let it sit for about 2 hours or so, it would idle weakly when I would start it up again. The car's been doing that for several months now, but it wasn't really affecting the drivability or the response of the car when I hit the gas pedal.
Now it's gotten much worse. So, I've already replaced the following items myself to no avail: mass air flow sensor, oxygen sensor, and egr valve. I am guessing the next thing to fix is the pcv valve. But I also think it might be the fuel pump. My first guess though is the pcv valve. What else could it be? And is there any easy way to test to see if the fuel pump is going bad? Or should I just take out the pcv valve and see if it looks bad?
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New quirk in my '04 Overland, 133K miles. When driving, it feels like I am getting some "wrap up" in the drive line. What I mean is that, when there is even the slightest amount of throttle pressure, and it is let off, there is a perceptible slight pull or surge feeling to the right. When even light throttle pressure is applied again, it will pull back left again. No driveline noises, clunks, shimmies, etc. , just the feel of the car sort of torqueing when there is pressure added or removed from the power train. It is more of a "seat of the pants" feel than in the steering. My guess is that it may be a suspension link or bushing in the rear ended gone, although I do have some fear about maybe the limited slip unit in the rear differential acting up, as I hear these can be prone to issues.
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7.3 2001 model starts ok at 32-35 F. Feels a bit sluggish / slow response on the road. Reach a hill after 3-4 miles. Engine temp then beginning to go above low level mark. 100 meters up the hill, going around 30 mph there is a sudden surge in the throttle although my pedal is steady. Going back a few minutes later, on flat ground at bottom of hill and with no accelerator pressure, the engine suddenly stalls. Starts fine again after I stop. The same history actually repeated on two separate days recdently on the same hill. CPS is recently replaced. Had some jerking before that, but not the behavior explained above. Current CPS is Delphi light grey. Recent fuel filter change and oil change as well
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I own a Mitsubishi Lancer 2005 model, From the past recent days I feel some kind of missing with the car, when we try to accelerate it. It seems to be some kind of fuel injection issues. I think doing a fuel injection service would be better. I didn't have much knowledge about car repair.
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I have a 2011 GTI which has about 46k miles on it. The car is stock other than some VagCom stuff. Over the last few months I have noticed a worsening problem which is getting bad enough to start being annoying. Under very light throttle such as cruising along or rolling off the throttle to shift, the car has a slight miss, almost like it's surging. It happens in any gear, typically around 1500 - 2200 rpm, and I first noticed it actually on the highway using cruise. It seems to happen most before the car gets nice and warm. It has not thrown a CEL, but I have scanned it and found some misfire codes, although I believe those to be from a really rough cold start which sporadically happens maybe once every six months (last time a couple weeks ago).
I have it booked into the dealer but I can't get there for a couple weeks. I don't think it's coil or injector related because it runs fine under high load and high rpm. Fuel filter has maybe 2500 miles on it, always use Shell 91. I really think it's probably carbon buildup but I am hoping the dealer doesn't just give it the old "cannot replicate" since the car is not triggering a CIL yet. It's pretty obvious when you drive it though that something is off. If they play that game I'll probably just go ahead and do it myself.
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The other evening my 2006 Town & County 3.3L would not accelerate well and I though I detected a miss while trying to accelerate. Also, when I got it up to around 55mph and would try to accelerate to pass, the engine would kick clear up to over 4000rpm and barley accelerate. I checked the plugs, the were fine, changed the plug wires didn't make any difference. The van had about a half a tank of gas in it, so I went ahead and filled it up, and that didn't change anything. I let the van sit overnight and the next afternoon took it out on the road and it seems to accelerate fine now.
The only thing I'm still noticing at this point is that with the transmission in park, when I try to rev the engine up to around 3000 rpm, it starts cutting off/missing very badly at around 2800 rpm.
My 99 grand voyager with 3.3L does not do, so I'm wondering if still have some kind of issue on my 06 or is there something on the newer vans that limits the rpm in park, it doesn't seem to be cutting out or missing at that rpm range now while driving.
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I have a 2000 Plymouth minivan. About a year ago it would occasionally miss. I thought it was bad gas and began adding alcohol with every fill up. This hasn't worked and the problem has gotten worse. Now, whenever I accelerate it misses and I get a popping sound that seems to come from the engine compartment or under the drivers seat. When I get up to speed it seems to run okay. The problem is worse when the engine heats up.
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4.0. I'm having what feels Like a Miss on Light throttle/cruise. Once warmed up it's fine. Idle is fine too. There is No CEL/Codes.
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I have a 2002 Regal LS 196000 miles and am getting a harsh shift with a P1811C code. 3.8 engine, MN3 code 4T65E and I was wondering if I should try the ZZ shift kit and the sea foam trick.
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I have a 1999 ford f250 with a 6.8 liter v 10 engine. At about 40mph the truck will start missing and lacks power to accelerate further. This problem is intermittent. Some days it runs great and others the miss appears. Well I scanned and the code reader said that I had a misfire on cylinder 7. I took a chance and replaced the COP and the boot for that cylinder . Ran great for a day and then the miss came back. Same code again. What else might cause this? Are plugs difficult to change in these engines?
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