I have a 2002 Regal LS 196000 miles and am getting a harsh shift with a P1811C code. 3.8 engine, MN3 code 4T65E and I was wondering if I should try the ZZ shift kit and the sea foam trick.
View 7 RepliesI have a 04 elantra and its driving me up a wall. when driving first thing till the trans warms up it has a harsh shift between 2-3 gears and its rough like all the motor mounts are bad and you dump a clutch. i have tried the tsb reflash and the adaptive learn still did it, Replaced the trans twice reflashed the computer after the last trans and redid the adaptive learn twice fist time at cold temp then redid the learn with the trans at full operating temp.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2007 Sonata, performs flawlessly, my wife's 2011 Elantra, not so much. We've had issues with her car from the get-go. The Elantra has 32k miles on it. About 15k miles ago the dealership reprogrammed the transmission. Problem seemed to be fixed, to a degree. Hiccup here and there.
Last night when my wife came home from work she said it was shifting hard. I just shrugged it off. We came in to town, about 5 miles down a busy highway. 55mph, no problems.
Car sat for a couple hours. We got in the car to come home, buttery smooth first few shifts to 35 mph. Car had probably been running about 5 minutes. Pulled out onto highway, shifts 1-2 fine, 2-3 holds about 2500 rpms, won't shift, won't shift, BAM! repeat 3-4, and I believe 4-5. I was so shaken up I didn't count. I pulled off and took the back road and it continued to do it for about 3 miles. It almost feels like the torque converter is locking up. Someone mentioned a transmission temperature sensor, but that is only in Sonata's, no one has seen it in an Elantra.
By the time we got home, the car was shifting normal. This morning I get in it because now my wife won't drive it, and it works fine. Works fine all day.
Go into dealership, they say everything is fine, they called Hyundai, they say nothing wrong, come back when you have a problem.
Any input on replacing the entire transmission valve body or just individual shift solenoids? My truck has begun experiencing a harsh shift from 1st to 2nd under light acceleration accompanied by occasional shift flare from 2nd to 3rd and 5th to 6th. I have located parts to do either job. It looks straight forward from just disconnecting the harness. I also understand there are different bands associated with the solenoids. Is there a requirement to have new transmission programming to accompany swapping these components?
View 2 RepliesMy brother and father just finished with all of the small issues after throwing in both a "new" engine into the vehicle and a transmission..both have around 80K miles (chassis has around 180K). There were some issues with codes after both were installed, but then everything was diagnosed and fixed, vehicles codes were gone and vehicle was able to be registered, afterall.
Anyways, now the car threw a P0715 code and has issues with shifting. It appears that the Santa Fe is stuck in a single gear (appears to be a higher gear). The car won't shift properly, especially noticed at higher speeds in a main road. Using tiptronic does not seem to make a difference. After the car sits and is taken around the neighborhood, it seems to drive fine, until it is taken out into a main road...I'm guessing once it heats up?
So, what should be looked into? A sensor? Is it maybe because this "new" used trans was swapped in and all of the trans fluid was replaced with new fluid? What could the issue be? I guesss the car's been a headache but they're trying to get it finished to avoid any further codes/issues.
02' Santa Fe 2.7 FWD
190000 miles... Driving on the highway my car began to vibrate and lose speed. I had to shift out of overdrive before I could get the car to respond again. It continued to feel incredibly impeded. I could not push the car over 65mph and couldn't remain at speed going uphill. From a dead stop, the car accelerates incredibly slow in any gear. The engine feels impeded even in P and N almost like the trans does not disengage.
The trans will downshift and kick up RPM when the pedal is put to the floor like normal. What could be causing the trouble and how much it could cost to have repaired? I have checked the trans fluid in park at op temp and it's perfect. No fluid is leaking from the car. Car feels like it's in drive and I'm holding the brakes while hitting the gas... even in P and N so I don't think it could be brakes.
My 4.65L V8 Explorer has an issue in low gear - RPMS rev high but car doesn't shift up.. eventually "catches" with a jerk but the OD Light started flashing and the Systems Screen reads Check Transmission. Light goes out and message goes away after turning car off and restarting. Had one Tech look at it - he said second gear is toast and need full transmission rebuild. Another Ford Tech looked and could just be solenoid needing replacement and advised to have a transmission service (not a flush) done....
View 2 RepliesI just replaced the front and back motor mounts on my 02, 1.6 automatic accent. The front replacement mount was 1/2 inch too wide at where the bolt goes through, but made do. Now, the idle, but that's it. Before, it was vibrating somewhat at idle and lots of steering wheel vibration at highway speed. Now, I have no vibration of the wheel at highway speed, so it's like I eliminated one problem and made the other worse. I am hoping that the mount being too wide is the problem as I ordered the correct one. While taking it apart, I also noted the bolt through the front motor mount is incredibly small compared to the hole and this was true on both the original and the too big replacement. Why is this? Assuming that I swap out the too big mount for the proper and it still vibrates, than what?
View 1 RepliesI bought a 02 elantra gt for a good price and had about 120,000 miles. The car had after market 18" rims on it and i planned to take them off since i don't like rims anyway and the rims were making the car bouncy and didn't ride right. So i got the recommended tire size for an elantra which is 195-60r-15 and put them on. while taking off the rims I realized that there was some clamps on the suspension and I didn't know what they did so i just took them off as well. What i have noticed is that the ride is very very harsh. I feel every bump on the road which you kind of get used to but when a bad bump comes on the road it feels like the car just got dropped from the air, its literally bad and i cant return the car since i bought it "as is". At first i thought it was the tires or tire pressure but this seems way worse just to be tire pressure. I just want a smooth riding car. The car seems lower like there isn't much space between the top of the tire and the hood of the car.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2002 4x2 xlt stock height with 100k miles. I've installed a rear sway bar, air assist bags in rear and bilstein shocks. I am looking for a smoother ride. It doesnt take the large bumps and train tracks very well. It feels like if the front end bottoms out. Ive been reading here on the forums about the rancho 9000 adjustable series giving a better ride, but most of those are for the 4x4 ex's they sit higher and more travel on the front end. So I am wondering if with rancho's make a smoother ride but not the front end bottoming out, maybe a 4" lift with the rancho's would give me both a smooth ride and no more bottoming out.
View 11 RepliesI have 1995 Toyota Avalon w/173K miles. It’s in good shape mechanically and cosmetically. My 16 yr old daughter is the primary driver. I have extensive service records and have replaced the springs/struts, o2 sensors, and a few other bits. My question is related to hard shifts and a check engine light. During the summer the trans shifts normally. In the fall & winter, when temps dip below 50 degrees, the trans shifts harshly and the check engine light blinks indicating a trans solenoid is defective. The trans fluid has been flushed twice, most recently in Oct 2008 at the Toyota dealership. My theory is the techs filled the trans with a heavier weight fluid than is necessary and that is triggering the codes.
View 1 RepliesI start it cold then drive two miles, 1 in town 1 on the freeway. It is almost warmed up. For the last three days it dies when I stop at the light on the freeway off ramp, which is down hill. It always restarts but yesterday it run a little rough, some white smoke then it was OK. It runs normal when its warm.
No check engine or any lights. Today however I decided to let it warm up before I left the house. I'm in Arizona it was near 60 degrees. It idles slightly fast since it was cold. I went inside then when I come back out it died before it warmed up. It restarted & I warmed it up, no white smoke & never had a problem taking my usual route.
So it appears it is a cold problem until its warmed up. I have ohm/volt meter but I'm not sure what I should check? I spoke to a repair shop & he said maybe I should leave it overnight & they would check it the next morning.
I would like to check what I can before I leave it with them.
I have a 2001 Regal GS with 105K. It starts, idles and runs fine if I drive it like a Grandpa, but if I try to accelerate even 1/3 or more throttle, it surges and misses. It keeps giving a P0102 (Mass Air Flow A Circuit Low), sometimes less than a minute from resetting it, and other times after 5-10 minutes of driving. I've tried 5 MAF's, two of which were new, and one from a known good running L67 motor. Plugs are new and wires are good. The power and ground wire of the connector test good, but I'm not able to test the signal wire. I've also checked over all vacuum lines and hoses, and pressure tested the exhaust for a plugged cat. I even tried another TPS.
View 2 Replies2002 regal LS 3800 V6 . Steering makes a groaning sound in either direction, even when not moving.
View 7 RepliesThinking about picking up a 2002 Regal. Major issue: it will not start without turning the lights on first and will shut off when the wipers are turned on.
View 4 RepliesOk, my 1996 Buick Regal is acting up. I got a CEL, which was a P0306 (Cylinder #6 misfire), took the car to my shop, and they diagnosed as a faulty Ignition Control Module. Fast Forward, a day later, the car now has a hard start problem and throwing the same code, plus a P0102 Mass Airflow Sensor.
So my questions are:
1) Could a faulty ICM cause a single cylinder misfire, did they just replaced a random part? I would think a bad ICM would a multiple misfire considering on this car each coil controls 2 cylinders.
2) Are the two codes related? ie fix one, and the other would go away? or are they separate issues?
3) What could be wrong with my car?
This mechanic has been in my family for years, however, I'm not very pleased that a day later, my car seems to have more problems than before. Am I being too harsh?
Ok had a check engine light. It directed me to replace the IAT sensor.. After some research I found it was integrated into the MAP sensor. Purchased a new sensor and replaced. Drive about 15 miles CEL throws another code. P0106 (sensor i just replaced) faulty Map sensor.
Followed procedure to replace sensor.. unhook battery cable reset ecm. After reset engine is hard to start. Followed by RPM changes (assuming its the ECM re-adjusting). Then CEL flashes 5-6 times and goes out, Drive 15 miles. Map sensor code reappears. (note i only purchased one sensor But repeated install 2 times).
My thought is against wiring. since the codes refer to different signal wires one for IAT one for MAP sensor. Faulty replacement sensor?
2002 Accent 1.6L
I seem to have a problem getting our 2002 Chevy Blazer to shift out of 4WD. We hardly ever use the 4wd, but quite a bit of snow today, so switched it on. Later in the day, it started to melt and we had dry pavement, so we tried to switch it back to the 2HI position.
After pressing the 2HI button, there were several clicks, sounding like it was coming from the glove compartment area, the 2HI light would flash for a couple seconds, then switch back to 4HI.
It is an automatic, I searched the manual and tried everything it suggested, I'm thinking maybe some type of relay, sensor or fuse is out?
2000 ls v8 sport shifts normally exept while shifting into 2nd, it kind of pops out but then locks then shifts normally.
View 9 RepliesI had a 622 code so I replaced the solenoid pack . Took care of problem for a week or so with no issues... now it's back again... now it start 1st when we had heavy rain then it started again just today in heavy rain? Short maybe?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2002 Celica GT automatic and it wont shift out of what seems like 3rd. The car starts and runs fine and reverse works great but when I put it in drive it seems to be starting out in 3rd and will not shift out of it no mater how fast or slow I go. I tried to manually shift from low to 2nd and then to drive and nothing it still starts in 3rd. What may be causing this?
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