Regal :: 2002 - Car Dies When Stop At The Light
Feb 15, 2014
I start it cold then drive two miles, 1 in town 1 on the freeway. It is almost warmed up. For the last three days it dies when I stop at the light on the freeway off ramp, which is down hill. It always restarts but yesterday it run a little rough, some white smoke then it was OK. It runs normal when its warm.
No check engine or any lights. Today however I decided to let it warm up before I left the house. I'm in Arizona it was near 60 degrees. It idles slightly fast since it was cold. I went inside then when I come back out it died before it warmed up. It restarted & I warmed it up, no white smoke & never had a problem taking my usual route.
So it appears it is a cold problem until its warmed up. I have ohm/volt meter but I'm not sure what I should check? I spoke to a repair shop & he said maybe I should leave it overnight & they would check it the next morning.
I would like to check what I can before I leave it with them.
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Okay, let me start by saying that its not the battery, (got it checked and tried to jumps with cables) and I got nothing...I replaced the starter and powwow.. That wasn't the problem, so now I'm confused as crap... Only thing I got left is the ignition switch and neutral safety switch.. I tried to put it in neutral and got nothing..
Could it be the vats system, although my security light doesn't come on... But when I try to bypass the starter soliniod, it cranks but it dies in a matter of seconds.. And I heard the the anti theft system block the starter from firing up the fuel injectors...
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Background:
New battery a month ago, connections are clean and tight
Replaced ignition switch 2 yrs ago.
Starter was taken off car and engages when directly hooked to a battery (month ago)
3rd time with this issue where the car won't start. Starter won't engage when key is in crankin start position. A month ago when the battery was replaced and starter was removed and 'tested' I had 12v to the purple wire on the starter - which should prove ignition switch is still good. All lights and power inside cabin is good. When key is turned to the crankin' position all power dies inside the cabin and nothing at the starter.
I first thought it was a weak battery connection. The second time this issue happened, I tightened the positive battery post and the car started. Today - no such luck. Both posts are tight.
Again the ignition switch was replaced a two years ago, however, I do experience issues with the key position and the climate control (a/c) from turning on. After the car starts, I slightly turn the key back and the climate control will turn on. I still don't believe the issue resides within the switch. Perhaps I'm wrong?
Is there anything between the ignition switch and solenoid on the starter? 2000 Regal LSE
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Got 99 Grand with a issue. It'll run fine then you come to a stop light and it'll die. try to start it and it'll rev to 2000 rpm then drop to almost nothing then rev again then die. It may do this once or 2-3 times. If you keep your foot on brake and give it gas you can keep it running put it still revs. Once at highway speeds it runs normal. When you get home or wherever and shut it off for awhile it'll start and run normal. Had it in shop twice. No codes. Replaced pvc valve and hose, fuel filter. They said start replacing stuff till it stops. I don't go there anymore. Another shop said unless it does it for them they wouldn't know where to start. Of coarse every time it does it, by the time I get it to shop it runs fine. I can do brakes, axle shafts, bearings but electronic fuel injection stuff still baffles me.
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I have a 1987 ford f150 with a EFI throttle bodied 5.0L (302), and I have taken it to a mechanic multiple times because for one it has a dead spot in the throttle and it dies when you let off the gas at a stop light or sign. But the mechanic said he checked everything he knew to check and found nothing wrong with it. I also had my cousin read the computer previous to this and we couldn't pull the codes from it.
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I have a 93 Regal custom with 3800 engine. The engine idles at a stop at about 800 rpm. At times it will idle at 1000 rpm or maybe 1200 to 1500 rpm. When the idle is very high I will shut the engine and restart, most times it will return to 800 rpm. I cleaned the MAF and this seemed the frequency has lessened.
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1995 Buick Regal, 128k miles, 3.8L V-6.Problem: When running errands around town, car will temporarily not start after 3rd or 4th stop. Vehicle cranks, has spark, has fuel pressure at fuel manifold. No codes on computer (Wish it was a '96). Car will start normally after cooling off (generally takes at least 45 minutes). No problem driving to work, parking all day, driving home. Have not tried long distance driving since problem arose, due to concern about being stuck for awhile far from home. Have determined at EGR valve is NOT a part of problem.
Sample situation: Drove 5 miles to town. Shopped for 15 minutes. Drove 2 miles further with 5 minute stop. Drove another 2 miles with 5 minute stop. Drove 1 more mile and stopped for 30-40 minutes. Car would not start. Cranks strongly, has spark and fuel pressure (don't know if fuel getting to injectors). Still would not start 30 minutes later. Left car for several hours. Started promptly and ran normally on return. Weather conditions - 90 F, low humidity. Problem has been occurring for several months. No computer codes to dive guidance.
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Thinking about picking up a 2002 Regal. Major issue: it will not start without turning the lights on first and will shut off when the wipers are turned on.
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I have a 2002 VW passat sometimes at a stop light the car seems to just die, stop, the engine just stops, I have checked/ Replaced the fuel filter, air cleaner, I am stuck.
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This is my brother's 02 SE. 140k miles. 4cyl. He claims that the car is beginning to idle rough when he is stopped at a stop light and the AC is on. If i replace the spark plugs should that do it? I'm pretty sure it doesn't have spark plug wires cus that's what my dealer parts dept said. Motor mounts were replaced around 70k if that matters. The vibration is directly related to the AC being on.
I am also going to replace the serp. belt because there's a belt squeak when the motor is cold.
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I have a 2002 passat. it is a v6 with a manual trans (i do not know about gls or anything like that) but the coolant stop light is coming on and if i drive, it runs hotter than normal. i assume it is a thermostat stuck closed but is there anything else i should look at before i make that assumption?
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I have a 2002 Honda CRV that recently started to fail on me. I'll be driving and usually in front of a red light (when the car is idle), the car will stop. Luckily, the last time it happened, I was able to get the car to start back up again. Also, the car sometimes won't start (ignition won't start) from when it's been parked. It happened multiple times this past week and the mechanic apparently doesn't know what it is. He cleaned my throttle body, how smooth my car runs now (less shaky) but the problem still persists.
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When @ a light or stop sign the car vibrates excessively to the point it makes my daughter sick. I do feel it vibrating but it doesn't bother me but something is definitely wrong. There are no engine lights on, I can hear the top end tapping and clattering, I did check the valve clearances which seem to be barely within specs. She says it vibrates worse when the tank is full. She also said when the tank is full the front end shakes driving down the road. I'm kinda wondering the front end shaking with a full tank might be the rear struts.
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My 2002 Hyundai elantra gls has had a problem with losing power when accelerating from a light. only after filling up gas and has done it only three times. I cleaned throttle body and noticed the mass air flow sensor is missing and wiring. I went to AutoZone and no check engine light for mass air flow sensor and that I have one for fuel pressure sensor in tank. I don't wanna throw money in to the mass air flow sensor if my problem is the fuel tank pressure sensor.
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2002 1.8t Jetta Wagon with the automatic transmission. They've had it for about a week now and we've been trying to iron a few problems out. Mostly cosmetic until the last couple days.
The coil pack harness is trash. I bypassed a couple of the extreme cracked wires in attempt to keep it going until the new one comes in hopefully at the end of this week. We put new plugs in but only afterward did we find out that NGK or VW is the way to go. We put autolite iridiums in.
New fuel filter, however, the line connecting the tank to the filter will not click into place completely. We are able to start/drive the car without the line popping off from the pressure, but you just have to tug on it with your hand to get it off, no need to depress the clip.
The car seems to run better cold. Once it is warmed up and you've been driving around town for 10-15 minutes is when the shuddering starts. It ONLY dies when in Drive or Reverse while at a complete stop. The idle drops down to 400 rpm or so, you can't rev the motor/drive. Sometimes it will come back up to normal and you can go, sometimes it will go back and forth but you can't get any power to the wheels. Sometimes it will drop the RPMs and shudder at 400 for a couple seconds then just die. It always starts right up without hesitation. In park/neutral the idle is still slightly erratic, occasionally bumping up to around 1300 rpms for a second or two then back to around 900 or so.
When we bought the car, we test drove it and it was fine. Of course that is how it works out. They drove the car for about a week. In that time, it shuddered and died once, and would occasionally shudder at a stop light but there was no issue driving it or loss of power when accelerating.
What I'm wondering is if we should go ahead and order the R8 coil pack and spark plug kit from HSTuning. I'm hoping that the harness fixes the issue, but if it could be cheap spark plugs or a coil pack going out, I'd like to get it all done at once. My main concern is the possibility that it could be the transmission. The symptoms feel like loss of power, not slipping, but still, I'm worried that maybe it could be the issue.
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I was driving my trusty 2002 152K miles, and came into a very long and very slow traffic jam on the side of a mountain. After about two hours of mostly stop and very little go, my CEL light came on. I am also seeing the "general fault" symbol, but it should be noted that my PS symbol has been showing for about a year because my PS died and I just didn't fix it.
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The car died on me the other day at a stoplight but started up again (It resisted for a sec but then caught). Now it's taking a bit to start and sounds very faint when it finally catches and the turn over is slow. I'm no mechanic but I can replace parts. I'm just wondering if it's the fuel pump or injectors, maybe low fuel pressure. I haven't had a chance to do anything to it. Where to start?
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have 2002 Explorer with 4.6l that stalled at a stop light and upon restart, there was noticeable ticking and a sucking sound. The exhaust regularly sucks your hand against the pipe. Ticking is from all around the engine. Exhaust smells like rotten eggs.
Son was driving and we just got it back to house so I do not know much more than that. Where to start to diagnose.
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