Regal :: 2000 Buick LS HVAC Controller Unit - Heater Always On Full Blast
May 24, 2011
I have a 2000 Buick Regal LS. This problem used to be intermittent but has gotten to the point that I never see a "normal" operating state from my HVAC controller unit, so I need to get it fixed. The problem is that when I turn my car on the controller comes up completely blank except the 4 red lights on the passenger side climate control. The heater then (at the same time) turn on FULL BLAST and is stuck in the 90 degree setting (hottest possible). I got to the point that I pulled the high fan fuse just so I didn't die of overheating...
Today I tried to replace the actual controller unit with a refurbished unit I bought off of ebay. Unfortunately, I had the same result with the new controller...No display at all, but all red lights light on the passenger side climate control. My thought is that the issue is much deeper than a vacuum line (although I haven't checked them yet) or even the controller unit. I've checked all the related fuses and they all seem to be fine. Could this be a computer issue? If so what is the fix?
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My heater and a/c on my car have been acting up!
Yesterday I got into my car I turned on my heater and it didn't work! So I pushed the a/c button and that did nothing either! No air came out of the vents at all even on full blast... So I tried turning it off and back on and nothing happen then it finally worked but when i tried to turn it off it wouldn't turn off then randomly turned off by its self!!!
Whats going on and what I should check for this problem ?
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The heater fan in the van will only work on full blast and the rear wiper/ ac button lights flash which I had another 98 caravan that I was driving that had the same issue with the flashing lights. What is that all about?
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I have a 2006 Sonata and just a few weeks ago the AC/Heater Blower would only work on full blast. You actually had to have the control set a little before the full setting to get it to come on. Both the heat and the AC worked. Now, nothing is coming out on any speed setting. I've replaced the blower resistor and checked the fuses/relay and they seem fine.
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Recently my truck is only blowing heat or air conditioning on full blast in my 2004 Ford F-150 (New style, not heritage).
Level 1, 2, or 3 is exactly the same and blows almost nothing, then if I switch it to 4 it is full power.
I just don't know what exactly I will need to change. I know it would be a resistor pack somewhere that probably failed, I just don't know where it would be.
Do I just need a new control switch, or do I need a new heater fan?
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I have a 2000 Regal LS that has no heat. The cooling system is full of water. The heater hoses are warm. The fan blow lots of air and the speeds can be changed by the heater controls. The heater controls light up and you can change the fan speeds. My guess is the control doors are not working. What should I check to figure out what is wrong.
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I own a 2000 Buick Regal, and have recently come across a gasoline smell while driving. While taking a longer drive, I realized that it would heavily smell like gasoline when I would go from park or from a stop. It really makes me nervous to drive my car not knowing what could be causing this problem. What is going on?
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Car:2000 Buick Regal54,000 miles3.8 V6, Vin K
Problem:The engine quits running. Idle, part throttle, moving, stopped, open or closed loop doesn't matter. Sometimes it will re-fire immediately, other times it may take a dozen or more attempts.
There is no MIL, and my TECH 2 is finding no issues.
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I'm trying to get my 2000 Regal to pass inspection, but every time I have it serviced and need to drive it for approx. 100 miles before the emmissions test, the service engine soon light comes back on. Can a bad gas module in the gas tank be the culprit? My gas gauge has not worked for several years and it didn't cause the service light to come on before, but the mechanic said that is the only 'code' that comes up on diagnostics.
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Buick Regal 2000... Could it possibly be a leaf hitting ventilation fan? Turn the fan off to test. Looking for someone who knows something about cars to listen under the hood and try to pinpoint the source.
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My dad's 1993 Lincoln Town Car runs great but the fan for heat or AC only will run at full blast or nothing. Makes it difficult to drive when it's real hot or cold out. Can this be remedied without costing an arm and a leg? The car is 21 yrs. old and not worth a lot.
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My Prius' battery died this week after a respectable 163731 miles. I barely got it to the dealership . It was sluggish, engine racing, one purple bar and the battery fan was going full blast. It totally freaked me out.
21 working days for battery from Japan. I've been expecting it. I figure I can then drive the car for another couple of years.
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My brother-in-law has a 97 F-150 with 4.6L that has no heat in the cab (blows cold air no matter what setting at HVAC controller). Heater core was replaced one year ago and T-stat was replaced last night. Coolant level is full and the heater hoses are BOTH hot so I believe warm coolant is flowing through the heater core. I am thinking that the HVAC controller may be at fault or maybe the mixing door in the HVAC plenum is malfunctioning. I have 97 rangers that had a broken hinge pin for the mixing door inside the plenum (a common problem with these trucks), maybe this is the same issue (I don't know). I am taking the whole dash out to see what the trouble is.
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Lately, I've noticed that when I start the car in the morning, the radiator fans come on at full blast, even though it's around 20 degrees F (not all the time, but most days). My temperature gauges all show (what I assume are) correct temps as it starts out cold, water first goes to 200 and stops, then oil slowly climbs and stops at 200 I believe.
They don't climb any faster or slower that I've seen, and usually by the time I get to work (around 20 minutes), the oil temp has probably climbed about 3/4 of the way to normal while the water is steady at 200.
Is this normal? I don't recall this happening, as I would've noticed as the fans are quite loud at full blast. I haven't had a chance to run a diagnostic scan yet, but the car hasn't warned me of anything either.
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I have a 2005 Subaru Forester with 88k on it. I bought it with about 70k on and have been doing a lot of the services myself.
I change the oil religiously. I recently changed the thermostat on the car, cleaned out the reservoir and now the car has new antifreeze. The reason I did this was because cars cooling fan is always going at full blast. This only started about 6,000 miles ago. So since it was a easy job I figured change the thermostat. I am in NY and it has been very cold out, but with my 10 mile commute to work by the time I pull into the parking lot the cooling fan is very loud and the noise is very noticeable.
I recently drove up to go skiing, ( the temp outside was 9 degrees) I was on the interstate going about 70 to 77 mph because the car was going uphill and the incline was significant , I would push more on the gas pedal and I would see the thermostat on the dash going up very closely to the red mark. I pulled over a few time, the fans were at full blast.
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I was driving today and at a traffic light a severe smell of burnt plastic filled the cabin and the A/C blower started to change speed than stayed at full blast and even if I'd turn the knob from side to side or tried to shut everything off with the ""OFF""button nothing would happen........so we drove home and at some point it shut itself off...tried it again and seems ok now.....every dealer closed today and leaving for the USA tomorrow morning.... What the problem could be?
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I have a 2002 Honda Accord coupe with 130K miles on it. A few days ago the AC started to make a loud roaring noise when it is turned on full blast. As you turn it down the noise gets quieter and when the fan is on low the roaring noise stops. Other than making this sound it is running fine and there are no other issues/noises coming from the car. What is causing this noise?
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I noticed that I have an unusual "rumble" noise coming from the location of my ac blower motor when it kicks in full blast. When the air temp comes down a bit and the AC slows down or if I switch the ac off full blast under climate control, the noise goes away. I have never noticed this before and am wondering if it is my ac blower motor starting to fail.
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I have a 2008 mountaineer that the blower motor runs on full blast no matter what. The switch bars go up and down but blower motor does not change speeds. also upon opening the hood I found 2 large mouse nests ,1 on passenger side fender and 1 center of engine towards the back. Are these related or could it be a switch issue. How to remove switch and test it.
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When running the heater or A/C I get twice the blast of air when I have it on recirculating air. When I switch it to fresh or outside air it cuts the blast in half. I had thought about the cabin filter being dirty but doesn't both outside and inside air go through the filter? I have a 2001 Toyota Echo.
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I would like to replace the brake line to the rear brakes, and I noticed that the brake line-to-ABS unit fittings have different threads. I already replaced the line to the Left-Rear brake, and it had a fitting with a thread M10-1.0. I tried to replace the line to the Right-Rear brake using a similar fitting M10-1.0, but it did not work. I just damaged the thread on the brake line fitting itself. Then I noticed that the thread on the current Right-Rear fitting is different. what that thread size should be (the fitting to the Right-Rear brake line)?
It is 98 Regal LS 3800 engine.
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