Regal :: 1998 LS Doors Locked When Car Parked With Engine Running - Dash Gauges Pegged Out
Apr 17, 2014
'98 Regal LS. The car was parked with the engine running, and the doors locked spontaneously. Starting then, noticed that the fuel gauge and coolant temp gauge were pegged out.
Short somewhere? Could a bad BCM cause this?
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I have a 2015 Somata ECO, while backing out of the drive the mailman came so I stopped (car running) closed the door went got the mail returned to the car and the doors automatically locked. This is not the first time this has happened, lucky I was at home and went inside to get the other key. What did I do wrong or how can i prevent this from happening again?
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I like to warm up the car in my driveway with the doors locked.My new 2013 rx 350 does not allow me to lock doors with engine running. Is there something i am missing?I want to lock doors with the engine running.
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98 Regal LS - Is it possible to turn off the running lights? If so, how would you do that?
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Came home after a run to mcdonalds in my chysler and the 1997 dodge caravan that we own was in driveway running with parking lights on the van doors locked.
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I am driving a 98 passat 1.9tdi. just bought the car. check the pic if u can tell me by the pic where is the oil leak from?? its really badly dripping. the pic showing below is 10 hour after i power wash the underneath the engine. its dripping while the car running or park. Its looks like the leak probably the back of the oil pan.
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2003 f250 5.4 86000 miles. When I start the truck, "especially after it sits a day or more" it starts to fast "Rushes". Like the gas pedal is all the way to the floor. I have taken it to the Ford dealer and they say they can find nothing wrong. They say all fords start up fast but I know this cannot be right. If I start it and let it run awhile then start it again it starts much slower. It only rushes like that a second or two and slows down. Today I noticed that when it started all the gauges pegged out. The speed indicator went up past 100mph sitting still in park. Then they all dropped down to zero then back to where they should be.
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Driving my 2003 today seen the "check gages" light on and the trans temp gage pegged on hot. CRAP, tranny time! look at the edge evo and it reads trans temp as -60F ???. Plugged in the torque pro and it reads 8,240F. At that point I figure its PROBABLY not that hot. Let it sit for a while and back to normal. Watch trans temp on torque pro as I drive it and everything is fine till it gets to about 150, then it jumps to 60F, then 30F, the 8240F. The cooler lines and trans pan are both feel normal. Picked up a new temp sender on my way home.
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I have a 98 Honda Accord in pretty good shape even though it has 340,000 miles on it. For the past month I have intermittently been having the dash idiot light that shows all 4 doors and the trunk lid is open -- coming on. In addition, the "brake" light that is just to the right of the blue "high beam" dash light, also comes on and the past week the "battery" light comes on. It also seems like the headlights slightly dim and maybe even the blower motor slows down just little. It started out lasting less than a second and now last maybe 2 or 3 seconds. I took it by one of the Advanced Auto parts stores and they did a diagnose check on the alternator, starter and battery. Everything at that moment, checked out fine. Alternator checked out good during regular operation and under loaded condition. Almost everything on the car is original except timing belt.
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So I have an 88 k1500 with the 350 that the previous owner removed and rebuilt... Didn't hook a lot of stuff back up etc... It's like a puzzle. It runs good for the most part but the oil pressure gauge in the cab pegs out when it's running. I've heard 1989 and older 350 engines have 2 oil pressure switches/sending units. I know about the one up by the distributor. But can't seem to locate the other one. Also what does the one by the distributor control? And what does the other one control?
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Car:2000 Buick Regal54,000 miles3.8 V6, Vin K
Problem:The engine quits running. Idle, part throttle, moving, stopped, open or closed loop doesn't matter. Sometimes it will re-fire immediately, other times it may take a dozen or more attempts.
There is no MIL, and my TECH 2 is finding no issues.
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All the gauges on the dash will die for a second and the engine cuts out and the car jerks then it will come back on and everything is fine. Sometimes the gauges turn off completely and the car will die and will not start for several minutes. I will try to start the engine but it will not start until the dash lights come back on. The first time this happened to me I changed the air filter and the car ran fine for a month. So when it happened again I took my air filter out put it back in and again the car worked fine for a couple of weeks. Now, It doesn't work to mess with the air filter at all. The car is cutting out more and more.
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My aunt has a 1998 F150 with the 4.6 V8. with only 40,000 miles.
Two years ago when she tried to leave work the truck would not start, it would crank over, but it would not start. She had the truck towed home and we figured out it was her fuel pump went bad. She did not have the money at the time to fix it, so she let it set and drover her nissan around.
I know after sitting for a few years the piston rings will stake (rust) to the cylinder walls. Usually take the plugs out, and pour in some oil, PB blaster,etc....and let it sit for a day or so, then turn the motor by hand to free it up.
Well She decided to get it fixed finally, and had it towed to the local ford dealer after sitting in her driveway for two years. Ford calls her later in the day and tells her the battery is dead and wont hold a charge, and the engine is siezed/locked up. They tell her it needs a brand new engine and could cost $5000. + after all is said and done.
She calls me asking what she should do. I told her BS! it only has 40,000 miles, and it does not need a new engine. It just needs to be broke free from sitting. I told her to have it towed to my house and I will fix it.
So today she had the tow truck bring it out to me. Tow truck driver tells me that ford said it has a bad fuel pump ( we knew) and that the motor has a spun main bearing in the motor..and asks me if I was going to rebuild the engine.
I tell him the story on the truck and he shook his head..and said yea..Ford is Full of it! I call my aunt and tell her what the tow truck driver told me, so she calls Ford..and asks what they did to the truck? Ford said, the truck has a dead battery, bad fuel pump and a spun bearing. She asked them how do they know it was a bearing?
Ford said they got the truck to run but the engine made a horrible noise like a bad /spun bearing inside.
I asked her, how did they get the truck to run with no gas/no fuel pressure if the fuel pump is out? The only way they could is with spraying Starting fluid ( ETHER) into the motor and fuel injection motors HATE that..they will run like total crap...
Bang, etc. because none of the sensors are working correctly..and makes the computer go OH CRAP. It's the end of the world!
If they (ford service) broke the motor free..I wonder how bad they did it. Did they FORCE it and break something internal ( bent a rod, wrist pin..)? I can't prove it, if they did.
So the truck is at my house and I am going to check it out. I am still going to pull the plugs and put oil inside, turn the motor by hand to make sure it is not locked up or messed up internally from them "working" on it.
I have never heard of a bearing going bad by just sitting. I have never worked on a 4.6 mod motor..and I know nothing about how good or bad they are... but I am soon to find out!
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Got out of car to open garage, car locked itself up with engine running. Had key fob in pocket. Nothing worked from fob. No unlock, open trunk, or sound horn.
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1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE 180K 3.3L
I read other threads about the connections under the hood, both sides, which I unplugged and replugged. I also pulled the IOD fuse for a little bit. Then I removed the cluster and looked it over. Looked good to me.
Got code P1698 for manufacturers assembly control or something to that effect. Thought I checked all the usual culprits. The dash lights work fine, so does everything else. The dash gauges just don't work. This is something that has been an intermittent problem with the dash gauges going out periodically when hitting a bump. It leads me to believe a connection. But I checked all those.
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I have seen this happen twice on two different push to start Sonata cars at my shop. Customer stated that randomly it would lock the doors with his key inside while parked at home. I have not yet determined the pattern that could cause this issue.
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Well, get the engine running sound, then the drivetrain takes a crap on me. . . On my way home, about 60mph. Hear a noise from front drivers side. Gets to the point where I think I am losing a tire. Got out and checked the lugs, all clear. Got back in and the truck wouldn't move. Shifted thru all the gears, nothing.
Revved up to 1500rpm and it just sits there and shakes, like it wants to go but can't. No grinding or anything. Got a tow truck and as we were loading it, noticed that the front axle was rolling fine, but the rear was dragging. Tried it in N and D and it still wasn't rolling. Also observed drips on the flatbed and the drain plug on the transfer case was wet.
Praying that it is transmission, cuz I can just have them come get it and have it repaired under warranty. Heck its only got about 3500 miles on it. If its the hat to check? Ill be spending the rest of my evening on YT/Google. . . (Figured this was the right area to post this, cuz its a 99 7.3, I didn't see a dedicated drivetrain area so. . . )
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Is there a way to step out and lock the doors with the engine still running?
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I like to stop for a morning coffee en route to work, about 2 minutes out of my driveway. I'd like to keep the engine running during that time to continue warming the cabin, so I have some chance of taking my gloves off at a traffic light rather than once I'm on the highway. It's about 90 seconds that makes all the difference.
However, only a fool would leave it running and unlocked, while running inside the store. The keyfob can't lock the doors like this (it's ignored while the hybrid system is on), so I use the hard-key once I'm outside. However, that's slow and fiddly, especially with gloves, especially unlocking it again when I come out with my purchase in my hands.
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I have a 2012 SE HB. Is there any way to have the remote lock and unlock the doors while the engine is running?
Also, my window lock button locks all of the window roll down buttons in the car except the driver side window button. It even locks the window buttons on the driver side door. Why in the world would it be useful to lock myself out of rolling down a window? Is there any way to fix this so that I can roll down the rear or passenger windows while they are locked for the kids in the back?
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I just saw a video of an IS350 and the mirrors folded in when it was parked and locked. The model was a hybrid, so I am not sure if that is a different option. I am looking at the IS 350 F Sport awd. Just curious what extras it will or could have.
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