Regal :: 1994 Buick Will Not Turnover / Cranks And Dies In A Matter Of Seconds
Jun 16, 2013
Okay, let me start by saying that its not the battery, (got it checked and tried to jumps with cables) and I got nothing...I replaced the starter and powwow.. That wasn't the problem, so now I'm confused as crap... Only thing I got left is the ignition switch and neutral safety switch.. I tried to put it in neutral and got nothing..
Could it be the vats system, although my security light doesn't come on... But when I try to bypass the starter soliniod, it cranks but it dies in a matter of seconds.. And I heard the the anti theft system block the starter from firing up the fuel injectors...
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2001 Buick regal started and ran left town for 10 days came back cranks but wont start I don't here fuel pump engage when I turn on ignition...
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The front motor mounts are bad. This has been confirmed. When I am cruising at a constant 45 or 55 mph and choose to accelerate because traffic is clearing, etc. the car will thump a bit and only slowly creep faster. It feels as if there is very little response other than the mild thumping. Getting to 65 mph takes time. The car has 70k miles and performs almost flawlessly at slower speeds. Is the thumping/lack of acceleration a symptom of the bad front motor mounts?
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Since our weather has turned cold with lows just above 0ºF and highs around 10ºF, and we've had 9" of snow this week, I have been driving a seldom used 1994 LeSabre rather than my "nice" car, an '08 Grand Marquis. There's no point in exposing the newer car to salt and slick streets. At least the interstates are completely cleared off. The LeSabre runs great despite its 177K miles. The only issue I have with the Buick is that it has died repeatedly after a 20 mile run up or down the interstate. I lift my foot or tap the brake pedal to turn off the cruise control, and the engine dies. The first time it did it, I pulled over, stopped, put it in park and restarted it. Now that I know what it's doing, I keep rolling, put it in neutral, and restart it before getting to the bottom of the ramp. I does it ALMOST every time after a long 65 to 70 MPH run. It was not doing it the last time I drove it at more bearable temperatures, in the 40s or 50s so it may not be a problem next week. It does not seem to do it going from stop light to stop light, even at low temperatures. It has the 3.8 Liter V-6. Why it might be doing this?
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I have a 2004 F250 Superduty with the 2003 6.0 Powerstroke inside of it. In the morning i can go out and start the truck perfectly fine starts up and runs like a champ, it will drive to any destination perfectly fine with no issues, ALTHOUGH .... once i reach where im going if i turn the truck off it will not start correctly. it cranks over and will start but sounds as if it is hydrolocking and in a matter of seconds kills itself. once it does this i have to let the truck sit for a minimum of 4-5 hours with the hood popped to allow motor to cool... as soon as its cooled completely i can start it and once again it runs perfectly fine until i turn it off again. if i leave it running at an idle it will sit and idle all day long and i can jump in and drive it fine. It just happens when it gets turned off.
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I just replaced the water pump and put it all back together, now it won't run well enough to drive. Checked vacuum system, all sensor connections, hoses, gas cap, changed fuel filter, I can hear the fuel pump kick in, reset system with battery disconnected and have looked at everything I can think of so far.
Now - starts fine, idles about 10 seconds and then begins to idle rough and dies. If I use the throttle I can often keep the idle up, but then backfires or acts like no fuel and again dies. Used fuel cleaner and made sure there was plenty fuel in tank.
I am looking at replacing sensors at this point but which one first?? They get a bit expensive real quick.
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My wife was driving expedition 2001 Saturday, the oil light came on, followed by check engine light. The needle in the gauge dropped to low in a matter of seconds. She exited the first exit, pulled into a Chevron and added 2 quarts of oil. When she restarted, the oil gauge moved up but engine was knocking a little. She turned it off. Sat for a bit and tried again, this time the oil gauge read L again and engine still knocking. There was no leak under the vehicle. Is the engine blown?
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About the Car: It has 101,00 miles on it. I haven't own this car for long (less than a month). I bought it pretty cheap to do some grocery shopping with. I have no plans to drive it more than 10 miles in a trip. I have a bicycle with a trailer, but there are days in the winter when the weather says, "No" to bicycling. I had the fuel pump and filter replaced at a shop when it wouldn't start a couple weeks ago. They said the fuel pressure was low, and it needed to be replaced. It was fine for a little while, but then it wouldn't start for the past three days now. No cranking at all. I can turn on the radio and roll windows up and down, though. I do remember seeing a Check Engine, Battery symbol sign, and a couple other lights off-hand. I'm at work right now.. so I'll have to go home to see if the Security light also was there, too.
Also! I did find an electrical line that did not go anywhere... not sure if that has anything to do with the fact that there is no window washer fluid tank (wipers do work).
After reading a little about other Buicks in the forum not cranking, I will definitely try the Security Light issue after I get home from work.
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I have a Buick regal 1996 v6 3.8l . SO my car tends to over heat really fast with the reservoir still nearly full of coolant also my fans also turn on really late.. Ive came down to the conclusion that it might be the temperature sensor idk whatelse to do. Ive changed the thermostat about a month ago.
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I have a 1999 Buick Regal GS with a supercharged 3.8 liter engine and 161,000 miles. I bought the car off of my uncle and he said he would have to change plug wires every month to month and a half because it would start missing so bad. When I first drove the car it would quit on me at red lights and in parking lots, it only seemed to do it at low idle speeds. I live on a hill with a blacktop road and I had to give it a lot of gas just to pull the hill it was missing so bad. The plug wire had a lifetime warranty on them so I replaced them and it stopped quitting on me but I still had a bad miss at random but not as bad it would just be like hard jerks. I added sea foam fuel injection cleaner and had the fuel filter replaced. The mechanic checked the spark plugs and he said they were like new AC Delco. I also cleaned the MAF Sensor (the mechanic told me to and how) because the engine did not run steady at idle and it seemed to work that, but not the miss. Could my problem be the plug wires? They are carquest brand 7mm wires.
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My 1995 Buick Regal seems to loose gas pressure. Have had several repairs done, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter and nothing seems to work. It seems that the repair shops are guessing at the problem. Sometimes it even stalls out completely but usually starts back up.
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Here over the last week or so I've noticed my car start to have a bumpy ride around 35-42 ish mph, and around 65-70 ish mph. It feels worse probably around that 40 range, and seems to be even more pronounced during acceleration. It's not a super high frequency or anything, maybe just a couple hundred HZ. I have been driving it considerably more over the last month with my new job (around 140 miles a day, mostly highway/interstate driving). I've got an oil change/ fluids checked about 3 weeks ago or so.
2000 buick regal ls ......
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I just picked up a 1991 Buick Regal for a good deal, but already the repair costs to get this thing up to speed are mounting :
Right now I'm dealing with all four tires losing pressure. The 24 year old car still has its original wheels (15 inch aluminum) and I'm assuming that they are losing pressure at the seal. The tires are only about a year old and the stems look okay, so do you think I'm on the right track?
There is one strange part to all of this: The vehicle with its equipped tires is rated at 30 PSI and if I fill them to 30 they are all down about five pounds within a few hours or after a drive. However, they do not lose more than or much more than 5 PSI. The front tires lose more air and lose it faster, but the lowest I've seen them is 23. Is only losing a few pounds of air and not going flat evidence of a seal leak or am I in the twilight zone?
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I have a 2001 buick regal with the odometer lights out. How do I fix this? Do I have to take the dash off to get to the light?
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I have a 2000 Regal LS that has no heat. The cooling system is full of water. The heater hoses are warm. The fan blow lots of air and the speeds can be changed by the heater controls. The heater controls light up and you can change the fan speeds. My guess is the control doors are not working. What should I check to figure out what is wrong.
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my 1995 buick regal does not have a spark, and I have had 2 mechanics look at it. The sereptine belt broke while I was driving, I believe it was because the water pump was bad and locked up. the belt got wrapped up in the crank pulley and I removed it. The AC has not worked in a really long time so I do not think that it is that pulley. It is not getting a spark. I have replaced the water pump, and the car sounds like it wants to start but it is getting no spark to it. I have had the crank sensor tested and the coil something. none of those seems to be the problem. some one suggested that it is the computer brain. I suggested that it was the timing. Though I do not really know. the battery is good so i know it is not that. and it has fuel. and i know that the engine is getting fuel. I know that the spark plugs are not getting spark (tested with a screwdriver in the socket on metal) So what is wrong with it.
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1995 Buick Regal, 128k miles, 3.8L V-6.Problem: When running errands around town, car will temporarily not start after 3rd or 4th stop. Vehicle cranks, has spark, has fuel pressure at fuel manifold. No codes on computer (Wish it was a '96). Car will start normally after cooling off (generally takes at least 45 minutes). No problem driving to work, parking all day, driving home. Have not tried long distance driving since problem arose, due to concern about being stuck for awhile far from home. Have determined at EGR valve is NOT a part of problem.
Sample situation: Drove 5 miles to town. Shopped for 15 minutes. Drove 2 miles further with 5 minute stop. Drove another 2 miles with 5 minute stop. Drove 1 more mile and stopped for 30-40 minutes. Car would not start. Cranks strongly, has spark and fuel pressure (don't know if fuel getting to injectors). Still would not start 30 minutes later. Left car for several hours. Started promptly and ran normally on return. Weather conditions - 90 F, low humidity. Problem has been occurring for several months. No computer codes to dive guidance.
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My Regal has no dash lights, I checked the 7.5 amp fuse inside car and it is good.
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I have a 1995 Buick Regal, with a 3.8L engine. When I start the car sometimes it rough idles and I have to give it a lot of gas and then it runs fine. This is completely random. Sometimes it runs just a little rough, other times really rough. The rough idling when starting the car happens about 1 out of 25 times. Sometimes when this happens I get a check engine light, most of the time not. When I am driving around I also will randomly get a check engine light, but I can't tell anything common to it. It has come on while braking, while coasting with foot off the gas and brake, normal city driving, highway driving. Also my CEL always turns off when I turn off the car and doesn't come back when I restart the car. Always.
I haven't been able to figure out what is wrong and since my car is transition OBD1 to OBD2 I can't use a OBD2 code scanner (it is an OBD1 port), nor will shorting the pins in my OBD1 type port give me codes. Being this the case I took it to a local mechanic and they scanned the computer and said they got 16 error codes. They reset the codes but couldn't get the CEL to come back on. I took it drove it for a couple of days the light came back on so I took it back to the shop and they got 18 codes out of it, but they were mostly different, with some of them giving the opposite readings of before (O2 sensor high one time, then low the next check). They said they didn't know what was going on but wanted 3-4 hours to diagnose the PCM (Powertrain control module) and would probably replace the PCM (~500 on top of the diagnostic fee). That was a bit much for me, so I took the car back.
The things I have checked are fuel pressure (seems fine at idle and revving the car in park)Vacuum is 19 and when I rev quick it drops to zero or so then up to 25 and slowly goes back to 19 (I think that means vacuum is ok). I put the gauge in the O2 sensor before the CAT and I didn't read any pressure, so I think the CAT is ok.I put on a new fuel pressure regulator, and a new fuel filter. I got the same PCM at a Pick-n-pull place and put it is my car 3 days ago. Yesterday I got a check engine light while driving again. The mechanic will charge me to check the codes, but I think it is just doing the same thing as always. I am sort of at a loss as what to do. I though it I was to dive around with a scanner hooked up and the light went on then I could see what the sensors were doing when all the trouble codes fire. I was looking at the Actron CP9190, but it doesn't log the data stream for OBD1 cars, only for OBD2.
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1995 Buick Regal 3.8L Series 1
This is my first car and I got it at 100k and I am up to 162k. She has been good to me. A week ago I noticed that my car was shuddering and having real issues getting up to 55 (misfire). These were intermittent and seemed to go away when I put new sparks in it.
Tonight I started it and heard a good sounding pop. The car would not idle right at all. Press the gas, up to 3k rpm, and let go ... stall. I got under the hood, heard a strange sucking noise, with some cell phone light found out the vacuum hose fell off??? Put that sucker back on. Idled way better. Driveable (the brakes worked again).
Took a look around the car and noticed that some smoke was coming out of the exhaust. Not a lot, but I havent really seen exhaust from it before. My buddy followed me home and said he could smell me the entire way.
It is was dark and I lifted the hood and noticed moisture all over. I mean everywhere. Spark wires, airbox, frame, and etc... I have been looking through my books and then online. I cant find anything. What I can be looking at for a root cause? What is messed up with this car?
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I have a 96 Buick regal v6 3.8L. It ran good. Started from last winter, it started to act up. In the morning, 98% OF the first attempt to start the car failed: it started but died in a few seconds, but the 2nd attempt always got it start. One month ago, I drove it for 1.5 hours, and parked there for 15 minutes, could not get it started, opened up the hood, waited for 15 minutes, it started. Then I drove it to a auto shop, they replaced the starter. One five days later, I could not started it again after 1.3 hour driving and parked for 20 minutes. Wait for 15 minutes, it started again. The odd is that when it refused to start, the radiator gap is very hard (but not over heated yet), after started it and drove for 30 minutes or so, I feel the gap is cooler than when it would not start.
I drove it back to the shop, they could not any problem. Drove it back. three day later, it stalled when driving. I didn't realize the stall until I need to turn: lost steering and brake power, then notice that the whole dash board doesn't have any light on. Since the car shut it off only after half mile driving, it doesn't looks like heat related (It was on the mountain, it was about 70 F). Then I sent the car to a different shop.
At the shop, they took off the ignition model and tested it good, and put it back. Since then, they started the car several times per day. Finally, on one day, the car shut itself off after running for 2 hours, and they could not start it. However, they checked and didn't find any code was set (they said because service engine light was not on). The shop have been trying to start the car several times per day for 10 days they didn't have another failure. I am not sure what to do with the car. I read posts here, and have the shop checked short circuit, ground fault, fuel wiring harness, catalytic converter, they didn't find anything, and they said that fuel pump seems ok.
I plan to replace crank sensor, fuel filter, and fuel regulator sensor and use the car for work commute (2 miles). what should be done on the car (since it is old car with 120K on it, I don't want to spend more than $500 dollar on it unless I am sure the problem can be fixed).
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