Ranger :: Truck Won't Start - Engine Stopped While Driving
Nov 26, 2014
My 2000 ranger, 5 speed, won't start. I was driving, and all of a sudden, the engine just stopped.
Electrical works, engine turns over once or thrice, but it never actually turns on. Wires and belts all appear fine.
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I have a 92 ranger 6cyl 4L. The truck stopped running while driving then kicked on again, it did this several times over about 20 minutes then finally died and now I can't get it started. I recently replaced the fuel pump and filter and spark plugs and wires. I get spark if I ground the plug and some gas will pour out of the fuel pressure test valve when I stick a screws driver in. When I check engine codes I get an all pass. Truck will turn over and sometimes run for 2 or 3 seconds but that is it.
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I was driving along as happy as could be, and suddenly lost power. 2000-2001 Ranger, 5 speed. After I got it home, I plugged in a charger, tried jumping it and all. I was getting a few turnovers, now I only get a click. Wipers, Lights and fans all work so there is some power at least.
I finally found my Ohm Multimeter and checked the current from battery to power box.
battery + to - 12.96
battery - to power - 0.00
battery - to power + 12.96
battery + to power - 0.00
battery + to power + 0.00
Now that just seems insanely odd to me.
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Sometimes the check engine light comes on and truck will not start, the fuel pump runs non-stop.. when check engine light goes off,the fuel pump runs for a few seconds and stops,truck will start.... driving down the road check engine light will come on and truck runs bad.... 1993 ford ranger .....
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I've got an 87 ford ranger 4x4. The truck won't start. The ignition is firing off with the key on engine off. When I got the truck the transfer case was blown. The people I got the truck from drove it to here it sat. I check the wiring but the transfer case to make sure it diet get damaged causing a sort. When I got the pcm was missing. Took one out of a bronco 2 and changed the relays on the fender. Here what I've done so far
Relays
Pcm
Complete tune up.
Distributor and ignition module
Replaced and repair some grounds.
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2800rot./min when driving. engine showed signs that he drowns, I joined, he went shortly after that began to fall speed and the engine stopped. Then I could not start. Come to be fuel, received a little dirt somewhere and no longer feeds? What can I do?
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for the last 5 months, i have not been able to use my 2012 sonata which broke down in October last year and has since been in the dealership in Dubai and they have never taken any action. what happened is that the car just stopped when I was driving at normal highway speed. no indication, warning or anything came up. the car just stopped and did not start any more.
when the car got back to the dealership they called me after a few days and told me that my engine block is completely cracked and the whole engine has to be replaced. I don't understand this, the car was only about 16 moths old and has 23,000km on the odometer. the car was always serviced and never driven erratically. until today no one from Hyundai took any stance to the problem
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Sometimes the check engine light comes on and truck will not start,the fuel pump runs non-stop.. when check engine light goes off,the fuel pump runs for a few seconds and stops,truck will start.... driving down the road check engine light will come on and truck runs bad....
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1994 FORD RANGER stalls while driving - differant speeds ...differant miles ...no rhyme or reason to it - cranks right back up ...can even pop clutch and cut it back on. Already replaced Ignition Start Module - Dpes sensor - temp sensor - and scan shows all codes are clear and truck passes. We are clueless to whats causing this. 4 cyl 2.1
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i have a 2WD 2004 Ford Ranger regular cab. I have replaced the rotors three times in the last year due to warpage. What is causing this? The truck does not pull to one side or the other while driving. applying the brakes don't cause it to pull to one side either. According to my mechanics, neither caliper is sticking. the right brake pad does show some signs of heat damage (cracking). There is no uneven tire wear. I have a buddy who thinks it may be a bent wheel hub, but my mechanic says no because no uneven tire wear. They are leaning to a faulty brake hose, but can't say for sure.
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The problem : I bought a 2004 Ranger truck and after two days it started to hiccup, or stall or die while driving, then because the truck is manual, just start up and keep running. It was the strangest thing.
I gave it to a shop, and after checking the electrical, the ignition, the fuel system, the drive train, and ten hours of troubleshooting, they came up without an answer. So they gave me the truck back.
Answer, a few days after taking it back:
I had told the shop that it had been sitting for 6 months, May till January, but when I told a mechanic friend a bit later, he still suggested 2 bottles of gas line antifreeze in the tank, before the next tank fill. I did that, and there was some improvement.
Next, When I replaced the balding tires with new Nokian Winter tires, the tire shop, (Kal Tire), told me that the air cleaner was incredibly dirty, and asked me if I would like them to replace it. I said yes, thinking that it might just do the trick, as no one in the forums I read, had mentioned it.
Success! No hiccup or stalling and it has not died since.
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1999 ranger, 2.55 speed. truck idles with very high rpm's when driving and shifting gears. have changed the AIC, mass air sensor. Throttle position sensor and still does it. the AIC has been changed 5-6 times in 6-8 months as parts store kept telling me it was that. What can i look at, check, etc...
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Last night someone broke into my 2000 Ford Ranger (3.0L, automatic, 2wd, extended cab) and tried to steal it from my driveway. For some reason they didn't complete the theft. Looks like they forced open the rear sliding window to gain entry. The steering column is damaged where you insert the key. The rotating part where you insert the key that has a slit is laying on the floorboard, along with a plastic ring that has stranded wire around it. (I think this is part of the anti-theft system that senses the smart key).
Anyway, I can insert the key and turn the ignition but nothing happens, the engine doesn't crank. The "theft" lite on the dash is flashing more quickly than normal. The thief didn't damage anything else but did take the owners manual from the glovebox. This is just an everyday truck that is over 10 years old, nothing special about it, so I guess it was an attempted joyriding incident. Police said they had another vehicle in the area stolen and later found abandoned. I need this truck to drive to work, what do I need to do to be able to start it? There's not a lot of money in our budget for bigtime repairs right now.
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I have a 95 Ranger with the 2.3L and it is a five speed. I am having a starting issue. I have replaced the ignition switch, clutch position switch, starter relay and had the starter tested. The truck will not start with the key. I can jump across the relay and it starts fine but will not even click with the key.
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The whole trip over here weren't any problems. Yesterday I went to the store, started fine. When I walked out of the store, the truck turned over 3 times and just stopped. After that all I got was a click at the relay on the pass fender. I have good batteries. I have verified current through the fender relay down to the starter but I cant get it to turn over. Another thing to note is the solenoid got so hot it burned me.
This, I have never run into. I replaced it today with a new starter with no luck. Could I have a bad, "new" starter? What would cause the solenoid to generate so much heat just sitting there? The longer it stayed connected, the hotter it got.
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The problem is it is hard to start after the truck has been parked overnight. It turns over ok but seems to take a long time to start. After it has ran, restart is normal, it fires right up. My ranger is a 2001(4.0 liter V6) and the problem is also with my daughter's 2006 (3.6 liter V6). I have tried a new fuel filter but no change. If I turn the key to the on position without starting it for a few seconds and then try to start it the engine starts sooner but still a little longer than normal.
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I had my battery out for quite some time. When I put in a brand new battery my key was not recognized and my truck will not start.
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I have a 2002 Ford Ranger, and it wont start at all. Ive replaced the starter, had the battery checked. Not the battery, took starter out, had it checked too, its not the starter either. Someone said it maybe a fuse? This is totally frustrating, and I need to get it figured and fixed asap. Its been going on for weeks., I had it fixed and then it just stopped. It wont even take a jump anymore.
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I have the LED mod and several weeks ago, my LED stopped indicating and the truck would not start in cold weather unless I jumped the terminal on the relay. I replaced the relay and while I was tightening one of the small lugs, the one towards the nose of the truck, I felt it break.
The truck acted just like it had been for the weeks prior, if I didn't jump the relay, it wouldn't cold start, so I assumed, because I had broken that small lug, it wasn't getting the signal to turn them on.
So what now? obviously the GP's themselves are working, as the truck starts when I jump them. But for some reason no signal is getting to the relay. What do I need to check to see what is going on between the PCM and the relay?
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99 Ford Ranger disguised as Mazda B2500. (Same vehicle I think) 5 speed manual, 4 cyl., no a/c. Bought new and maintained according to schedule. Randomly fails to start. Cranks but won't turn over. I try several hours later and am able to start it. Mechanic has not been able to duplicate the failure to start. Checked thoroughly and finds no problem. I am very hesitant to drive it like this.
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I have a 96 ranger 4.0L shift lever was very sloppy and one of the torq bolt fell on the floor I used loc tite and tightened them up with no problem put everything back together and now it wont start. I think I checked everything even replaced the neutral safety switch, adjusted the tranny cable, checked fuses and switched around the relays maybe an ignition switch? I am running out of stuff to troubleshoot.
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